Last Man Projects: The Reality of Going Gray

Becoming a “gray man” is an important concept for anyone who is formulating an emergency bug-out plan. For those unfamiliar with this phrase, it refers to remaining unnoticed and forgettable. On a practical level, this has a tendency to affect the gear we choose — the public perception of a $30 backpack from Wal-Mart will be drastically different from that of a $400 tactical pack with camo fabric and PALS webbing. However, this concept goes much deeper than gear alone. It also has to do with your surroundings, your physical appearance, and even your mannerisms.

511 Rush backpack action 1

While highly functional, a backpack like this 5.11 Rush pack will likely draw attention in an urban setting.

Last Man Projects recently published a post on its Facebook page on this topic, and it makes some excellent points. Here are some excerpts that really resonated with us:

“Being gray isn't something you can just throw money at and achieve, nor is it as easy as not wearing “tactical” clothing all the time. … It takes the right mindset, planning, practice, and even then isn't guaranteed because (and this is important) situations are fluid. Being gray is highly dependent on your ability to read the changing situation and adapt quickly and appropriately.”

  1. Going gray isn't about trying to be the blandest, most monotone person in the room, it's about being forgettable. This isn't done by trying to be Average Joe all the time; it's done by understanding what other people expect to see in a given area at a given time, meeting those expectations, and the ability to mitigate any incongruities. In other words, looking basically like everyone else does, when everyone else does. Walk down the street in a chainmail thong and I'll bet you'll turn some heads; do it at the Burning Man event and no one will give two s**ts or look at you twice. In this case, the chainmail thong is an indicator that you aren't, or maybe are, where you're supposed to be at the time. Speaking of indicators…
  2. Indicators are things that can stick out in a person's mind, and can potentially help them notice and remember you. … An indicator, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder.  A bystander's or witness' own level of training, situational awareness, and even personality are just a few variables that will effect your “grayness” regardless of anything you choose to do.
  3. Going gray isn't just about how you look, it's about how you act. This important truth seems to be left out a lot. As any actor would likely tell you, the devil's in the details. Your mannerisms while trying to blend in can sometimes broadcast more about you than your appearance. … You may be wearing a conservative blue suit with all your EDC stuffed in a leather messenger bag, but carrying yourself like a tough guy when you're trying to blend in with a group of white collar drones is going to get you noticed.

The point is you have to be flexible in your mannerisms. This is the most important and difficult part of going gray to master, and usually takes constant focus and lots of practice to be convincing at. You can buy all the “gray man gear” you want, but if you don't take the time to really study how average people act during times of crisis and convincingly put that veneer of panic and uncertainty over your real personality, you will never be able to truly “go gray” when the SHTF.”

You can read the entirety of the unedited post here. For more survival philosophy and tips, check out the Last Man Projects post we previously shared on the topic of hotel preparedness, or follow the group's Facebook page.


How to Survive a Structural Collapse

It's a windy day, but you don't notice. You've been holed up at home playing Fallout 4 for the past two days and haven't seen the weather reports. Suddenly, there's a thunderous sound of windows breaking and columns cracking. The roof caves in, and you're pancaked under tons of steel, wood, and concrete. What do you do?

Wind storms are possible throughout most of the country. Although a tornado brings wind speeds of up to 300 mph, its path is generally no wider than a mile. This makes the damage more localized and easier to access for responders. Although they have lower wind speeds, hurricanes may clear a path wider than 100 miles, which is more likely to spread rescuers out too thin.

If and when this happens, rescue teams will be in short supply — assuming that, given blocked roads and other hazards, they can even reach those most in need. In that case, everyday civilians must start the job themselves. Search and rescue will become self-search and self-rescue. Knowledge and preparation could make the difference in saving yourself and others, or waiting in vain for the government to arrive.

Before the Storm

Protection of window openings is critical during high-wind events. If windows blow out and wind gets inside a typical residential home, the roof may quickly blow off. Pre-cut, location-labeled 5/8-inch plywood panels with pre-drilled holes work well, assuming that the screws are kept in a safe place. If thick plywood is too bulky and heavy for easy installation, consider polycarbonate hurricane panels. These plastic sheets are about one-quarter the weight of plywood and clear enough to transmit light.

Even if your home is made of concrete block, a common weak link may exist where the wood-frame gable end of the roof connects to the walls. Remember that part in Top Gun when the F-14's canopy blew off and then the ejection seat rocketed through? Of course you do. Think of that gable end connector like a fragile latch that holds your roof (F-14 canopy) in place. If the latch goes, everything else goes with it. And Goose dies.

Hurricane Preparedness - Teamwork

Once the home is “safed-up” as best as possible, listen closely for evacuation orders. If they come, and if it's at all possible, then get the hell out of Dodge. It's not a badge of honor to stoically remain — it's foolhardy. If the storm hits hard, it could take weeks for supplies, power, and water to be restored. And if the supply cache and water storage basins you worked so hard to make are destroyed in the storm, what then?

If evacuation is really, truly impossible (and not just undesirable), then consider carefully where you'll shelter. Residential homes and townhomes are built to a lower standard of construction than three-story-and-higher structures. Lightweight wood frame and light metal structures are especially prone to collapse during wind storms. This means you should stay out of mobile homes and buildings like airplane hangars, marina structures, etc. “Big box” stores like Home Depots or Walmarts aren't much better given their long, unsupported roof spans.

In extreme cases, if you have advance notice of the incoming storm, consider breaking into buildings — this is a true, life-and-death emergency, right? — that are three stories or higher because they're more heavily reinforced and subject to more stringent requirements. Or even better, consider specially reinforced structures like federal government buildings and hospitals, with public schools as a second-best option. Unless they're made of old-school brick, their skeletons are more likely made of reinforced concrete or heavy steel frame. High-rise glass curtain wall buildings are an option as well; even if all of their windows blow out (a frequent occurrence) they remain structurally stable during high wind events.

Once the wind picks up, put your egress (escape) bag on and don't take it off. If you're trying to sleep, sleep with it on. If and when things start happening, they'll happen faster than you think. You won't have time to look for it. Keep your phone charged as best you can at all times. Once the cell network opens back up (and it will) it has been proven to save lives by helping rescuers locate victims. Turn off any accessible utilities, including water, power, and gas lines. This will lessen the chance of fire and/or electrocution when those lines break. (See sidebar for a tool that can help you here.)

In single-family houses, the gable end of the roof is usually the weakest link. (Image courtesy of Simpson Strong-Tie Company.)

In single-family houses, the gable end of the roof is usually the weakest link. (Image courtesy of Simpson Strong-Tie...

Indicators of Collapse

“Warning shots” of impending collapse will vary depending on the type of construction. Windows blowing out is not one of them, at least in taller structures. As the building is stressed, walls may begin to separate from ceilings and from other walls. Cracks will form at these junctions, and cracks wider than your thumb indicate that things are getting desperate. Dust hanging in the air or creaking and groaning that suddenly seem amplified also matter.

One of the final (and most eerie) indicators in a multi-story building is doors suddenly opening or closing by themselves as the building twists or “racks.” Disturbingly, when the doors close they often do not properly shut, but get jammed into the racked openings, possibly locking occupants inside. At that point you probably have less than 15 seconds to get out.

brick-wall-of-building-pulled-apart

If It's Collapsing Around You

Get out by any means necessary. Head towards the light — windows are often the most accessible egress points assuming that they're below three stories. If in a multi-story building, try to make it to a stairwell, which is often specially reinforced. (The few survivors of the World Trade Center collapse during the 9/11 attacks were often found inside stairwells.) Otherwise, at least try to get into a hallway where there will be less debris to crush you. The centers of rooms away from the walls are often the most dangerous locations. As a last resort, shelter under heavy office equipment or furniture, or at least hug a wall. If the floors tilt as they fall, all of the debris will pile up against one side, so at least this way you may have a shot of not being crushed immediately.

If you're being covered by debris, try to keep your arms and hands in front of your face as you fall. As with an avalanche, this can help create a life-saving air pocket (void) around your head.

Afterwards

Get out of the building as soon as you can gather your senses — don't hang out or wait to see what happens next. Small hand tools, gloves, and headlamps can be invaluable to aid in your escape. Keep in mind that broken electrical lines mix poorly with broken water lines, even more so if gas lines are present. This makes the immediate threat of fire a distinct possibility, and it's the reason smart rescue crews stretch and charge a water hose as soon as they pull up to a structural collapse even if no fire is visible.

If you are lightly buried, try to orient yourself. Not sure which way is up? Try to spit, and see which way the saliva falls. If you're trapped inside a void, a little bit of water and air can make all the difference. This is why it's critical to carry that egress bag on you at all times, especially if you have advance warning.

Helping Others

Again, unless there are family members or folks who owe you more than $10,000 in gambling debts inside, get yourself out of the building first. Then take time to reassess yourself first, and next, whatever damaged building it is you might want to get back into.

If hurricane winds suddenly appear to die down, remember that you are most likely within the calm eye of the storm — the other half is yet to pass by. Typically this calm period lasts less than an hour so whatever you're going to do, begin immediately.

helping-get-people-trapped-in-car-out

The first step in rescuing others from a collapsed or partially collapsed building is sizing up the structural damage, ideally while locating any surface victims. Be wary of any cracks wider than your thumb, or obviously missing supports like beams, columns, etc. “X” cracks forming between window openings indicate that huge shear forces have been absorbed and that the structure is in very fragile condition. If there's a rubble pile, climb on top of it to get a better view and more access to surface victims. While there's a chance of the rubble moving beneath your weight, thus posing more hazard to entombed victims, the possible benefit of finding more surface victims usually outweighs that risk. If at all possible, try to make sure the utilities are turned off before entering the building. Otherwise serious risks of fire and/or electrocution compound the threat of secondary collapse.

Once you've cleared the perimeter of all easily accessible surface victims, it may be time to make your way inside or start digging into the pile. Gloves, eye protection, and steel-toed boots are necessities here. An N-95 respirator or a Buff are also nice to have, considering the large amount of airborne dust and debris.

Focus your efforts on searching the stairwells. These sheltered locations often provide the most survivable voids for victims. If you can't find the stairwells, focus on searching adjacent to any walls that are still standing. These areas are often more prone to harbor survivors. Out and away from the walls, in the middle of rooms, is where debris often piles up and crushes anything underneath.

This is the time to slow the pace somewhat and think before doing. Do not rush. Do not run. You need to be able search in a methodical manner. That means shouting out to possible victims, and being quiet while listening for calls back. It's hard to hear while you're running or breathing hard, or thinking about what you're going to do next. Anyone who hasn't been found yet is more likely than not buried under something — otherwise they would have walked out. That means their voices will be muffled and small.

carrying-person-on-gerney-to-medical

Remember, no matter how bad the collapse looks, keep in mind that there's always a chance for survival. At least one World Trade Center survivor literally rode the building down, something which should have been technically impossible. Victims have survived in voids up to 14 days, and recent experience at the Haiti earthquake disaster has pushed the limits of survivability longer than anyone had previously thought. Even if you're not a first responder by trade, you may still have the responsibility of one day being the first responder by chance.

Common Myths … Collapsed!

Duct tape on windows provides protection:
It doesn't provide protection, but it does increase the chances of getting both glass shards and duct tape fragments inside your eyes when the windows blow.

My home was inspected by the local building department during construction. It must be structurally sound:
With all present building officials excluded, of course, inspections during residential construction are known for missing critical deficiencies, especially during construction booms when city inspectors are stretched thin. Concrete block walls may have never been filled with grout and reinforcing steel. Roof-to-wall connections may consist of a handful of toe-nailed screws. And the common gable-end wall weakness makes many homes built before 2002 (when more stringent wind resistance requirements commonly came into effect) prone to wind-related roof collapses.

The government will help us:
Depending on the scale of the disaster, rescue resources will be spread over a huge area. This means that if the town next door was hit harder than yours, most or all of the government resources could be diverted to that area. One collapsed house in your town will not draw attention when 100 houses in the next town were knocked over. Survivors of Hurricane Katrina still remember trying to signal Blackhawk helicopters from the roof as they flew by. However, many of those flights were focused on aiding the tourist and convention center locations instead of the more sparsely populated residential sections. This led to help being significantly delayed in certain areas.

Snow-Related Collapse

With the recent winters being more severe than almost any in recent history, snow-related structural collapses are occurring with record frequency. A major factor is lack of “warm-up” or sunny days that lead to ice and dense snow. This dramatically increases the stress on the roof.

To help avoid a collapse, inspect all four sides of your roof for covering snow — just because the front is clear doesn't mean the backside is the same. Although roof capacities (and snow density) will vary, as a rule of thumb anything more than 24 inches of snow on the roof is a red flag. Reduce that value to 18 inches if rain and/or ice is expected. Talk to a local structural engineer and/or your local building department, since local weather patterns and construction types are often the deciding factor in allowable thickness. Sagging roofs and rafters indicate excessive snow weight. Popping noises, creaking, and visible cracking are also signs that the structure is being overloaded.

To use a snow rake (roof rake), start from the roof edges and work your way to the center. Buy a rake that's long enough to allow you to remove the snow while standing on the ground. Climbing on the roof will only add to the weight on the over-burdened roof and increase your chances of falling off. An icy ladder plus iced boots is a deadly combination. To avoid damaging the shingles, shave the snow down to a few inches in thickness but avoid trying to scrape the roof completely clean. Also make sure that snow is cleared from your furnace and dryer exhaust vents.

shed-collapsed-from-weight-of-snow

In rural areas, establish a communication and evacuation plan with an offsite party. Check in with them using scheduled, twice daily status updates. If two consecutive calls are missed then the emergency rescue plan should go into effect. Return to or remain at your last reported location and await contact. If you think a collapse is likely, keep your supply bag on your person at all times and consider woolen undergarments, which will maintain their warmth even if they get wet.

Try to keep a fire going, but make sure that adequate ventilation is maintained. If you run out of water, do your best to melt ice and snow before consuming. Keep in mind that if you're already cold, eating snow will only lower your temperature further. At a minimum, try to thaw snow enough in your hands to be able to mold it into a ball before sucking on it. If things really go bad and your home suddenly becomes a snow cave, cold will quickly dull your mind — make a plan while you can still think clearly.

Vital Gear

If you want to prep for a building collapse, but the closest you've ever come to a search and rescue is watching reruns of Baywatch, you'll need to start by reading the main feature in these pages and any reputable books or online sources you can find. Then, you need the right gear. Sure you can do a lot with your bare hands and when you've got adrenaline on your side. But imagine how much more you can do with a little bit of assistance. Keep these small items, plus a couple of bottles of water, in your egress bag always.

gloves

Gloves

You need paw protection to help safely lift small objects and clear debris. The Stryker Gloves from Line of Fire can do just that and more. This heavy-duty glove has four-way stretch Kevlar, flexible abrasion- and impact-resistant knuckles, and Line of Fire's TEGS grip surface atop the leather palm and fingers. For more info, go to www.loftactical.com.

headlamp

Headlamp

Powerful flashlights are great — until you realize that you need two hands to accomplish most any task related to search and rescue. The Coast HL-8 headlamp features a huge 390-lumen adjustable light output powered by four easily-scrounged AA batteries. And because the old adage still holds true that “two is one, one is none,” a small powerful flashlight should be part of your everyday-carry kit at all times. For more info, go to www.coastportland.com.

axe

Axe

Made of 1/4-inch-thick 1095 epoxy powdercoated carbon steel with full-tang construction, the SP16-SPAX Rescue Tool by Ontario Knife Company was modeled after WWII emergency crash axes. It's designed for breaching walls, although its 2.1-pound weight means it can still be carried on you full time. It even has a built-in opening so the tool can be used like a wrench, with the hole sized to turn fire hydrants or gas valves. For more info, go to www.ontarioknife.com.

boot

Boots

Steel- or safety-toed boots are a must for any kind of structural collapse scenario, given the possibility of shifting debris falling on your feet or puncture items underfoot. One of the best examples of this type is the Pro Series Model 6006 by Honeywell. These 8-inch technical rescue boots feature a composite toe cap, steel bottom plate and ladder shank, and 7-ounce Kevlar/Nomex ripstop cloth paneling. For more information, go to www.honeywellfirstresponder.com.

protective-glasses

Eye Protection

Losing your eyesight means immediately losing your effectiveness, and your status changing from rescuer to victim. Fortunately, there's eye protection like the Wiley-X XL-1 Advanced frames, which include interchangeable clear and dark lenses. Keep the clear lenses in at all times, even indoors at night, if you suspect a collapse or breaking windows is possible. We love the positive-connection elastic straps that won't come off even when they get caught on something, as well as the removable foam gaskets which block out dust and debris and combine the best of both goggles and sunglasses. For more information, go to www.wileyx.com.

About the Author

Andy Schrader is a licensed professional engineer and certified by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers as a structural specialist responder. He is assigned to Florida's Urban Search and Rescue (USAR) Task Force 8, based in Marion County, Florida. His company, Recon Response Engineering, specializes in educating the public, technical rescue crews, and firefighters on the subject of structural collapse.

www.reconresponse.com

www.facebook.com/ReconResponse

SOURCES

Collapse Operations for First Responders by John O'Connell www.pennwellbooks.com

DisasterEngineer.org www.disasterengineer.org

Simpson Strong-Tie Company www.strongtie.com

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Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original print version for the web.


Infographic: Guide to Travel Plugs & Wall Sockets

Preparedness at home is crucial, but any frequent flyer knows that adequate preparation for international travel is even more important. Forgetting something small can result in major headaches abroad, especially if you're visiting a locale where replacement goods are exorbitantly expensive or completely unavailable. You'll probably get by if you forget your toothbrush, but finding electronic equipment can be much more difficult. This is why we recommend building a portable electronics EDC kit to cover all your mobile devices.

However, there's something we alluded to in past articles that we feel deserves more attention—travel plugs. Many countries outside North America use different wall outlet types, so you'll need to obtain an adapter ahead of time. Otherwise, your entire electronics kit will become useless in a matter of hours. However, it's not always easy to know these travel plug types, and where they're all used.

The following infographic from Citybase Apartments makes the subject much easier to understand. It visually identifies fourteen different types of travel plugs, their cross-compatibility, and the countries which use them.

Infographic travel plugs electronics 1

Infographic travel plugs electronics 2

Infographic travel plugs electronics 3

As with the other infographics we've posted in the past, you can view larger versions of these images by clicking the image, then clicking the Download button in the top right corner.


Patella-Dropping Pugilist: Knee Strikes for Self-Defense

Life is unpredictable. Whether it’s a bear mauling, a mudslide, or a mugging, being prepared for the bad stuff is what RECOIL OFFGRID is all about.

Because manure happens, we know many of you carry some sort of self-defense tool, be it a gun, knife, pepper spray, tactical pen, or all the above. Alas, Murphy's Law often pops up, and there could be times when we might not be armed (think entering a court house or going on vacation in non-permissive regions). Then there are times when we just can’t access our weapon fast enough — especially during extreme close-quarters combat. Therefore, all preppers should consider learning empty-hand combatives or martial arts.

Knee Strikes for Self-Defense

DSC_0171 opener

In Issue 16 of RECOIL OFFGRID, we’re bringing you enough information on knee strikes to aid in any SHTF self-defense situation. But can’t wait for the print magazine to go on sale in early October to become a napalm-kneeing ninja? Well, you’re in luck, my friend. Read on for extra techniques shown by a variety of martial-arts experts and exclusive content you can only get right here at OFFGRIDweb.com.

Breaking Free

In our feature called “Simply Smashing” in Issue 16 of our print edition, we discuss how a head clinch (often seen in Muay Thai and MMA matches) is a dangerous position to be in. When someone has their hands around your neck or head, you must escape because knees to your body or face are only moments away.

Michael Mananquil, head Muay Thai instructor at AB MMA in San Francisco, knows all too well the power of the knee strike: “When I was a young hotshot, one of the senior students grabbed me and knee'd me during sparring. For the remainder of the class, I was curled up in the corner, crying out of every pore.”

Now a Muay Thai world champion with 25 wins and four losses to his record, Mananquil says his knee strikes have helped him finish some big and tough contenders, allowing him to deliver devastating blows for someone of his size. With this in mind, the world champ shares two effective ways to escape and counter the deadly clinch of Muay Thai.

ABOVE: Clinch Counter – Robert Arnold goes for the Thai clinch. Not a position to hang-out in, Muay Thai coach Michael Mananquil quickly lowers his level and grabs Arnold around the waist. Mananquil continues to pull at the waist while digging his chin into his opponent’s chest. Having dumped Arnold to the ground, Mananquil can now continue the onslaught or make his escape.

BELOW: Clinch Counter Two – Arnold has the clinch on Mananquil. Not able to perform the first counter, Mananquil extends his back to prevent his head from being yanked down and jams his fingers into his opponent’s eyes. He circles his left hand inside, breaking the clinch, and following with an elbow strike and a knee strike to the groin. With an incapacitated bad guy, Mananquil steps back to assess the situation.

Indonesian Kneeing Knowledge

Pentjak silat is an ancient fighting system that focuses on close-quarters combat with blades and empty hands. Dr. Andre KnustGraichen, a master of several silat styles, shows us how to use the knee as a leveraging tool to disarm a machete attack. Take that, Jason Voorhees!

ABOVE: Silat Knee Assisted Machete Disarm – Against a machete slash, KnustGraichen angles his body away from the attack and parries with both hands. Continuing the trajectory of the slash, KnustGraichen traps the machete with his hand and knees. Once the weapon is under control KnustGraichen is able to disarm the attacker.

Craving for More Krav Maga

Tragically, Americans are becoming more aware of mass shooting scenarios due to recent news headlines. “Escape, hide, barricade, then fight” is the formula most trained professionals suggest you use if you’re faced with such a scary situation; here is the fight portion of that paradigm.

Edgar Gabriel, an instructor in Krav Maga (a popular system that is used by law enforcement and military around the world), shows us the rifle disarm.

ABOVE: Shotgun/Rifle Defense – Tony Hoang aims a shotgun at Edgar Gabriel's center mass. Immediately Gabriel angles his body and pushes the shotgun's muzzle offline. Gabriel brings his right hand in to reinforce the control and fires off a knee strike into Hoang's groin. Once Hoang is hitting the high notes of the Star Spangled Banner, Gabriel steps in and slams the muzzle of the shotgun into his head. Gabriel now has control of the gun and moves to a safe distance.

About the Author

Dr. Conrad Bui is a San Francisco-based chiropractor and martial artist with more than 30 years of continuous experience. He regularly gives and receives knees as a Muay Thai coach at World Team USA under Ajarn Sam Phimsoutham. A frequent contributor to RECOIL OFFGRID, Conrad is also a guru in the art of Indonesian Pentjak Silat Serak under Guru Besar Andre KnustGraichen. He is currently working on his Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu black belt under the tutelage of Professor Diego Herzog.

Sources

Edgar Gabriel
Academy of Combative Defense and Fitness
www.academydefensefitness.com

Diego Herzog
www.diegoherzog.com

Andre KnustGraichen
Pentjak Silat USA
www.pentjaksilatsera.com

Michael Mananquil
AB MMA
www.ab-mma.com

Sam Phimsoutham
World Team USA
www.worldteamusa.com

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Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 17

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Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original print version for the web.


72,000-Lumen DIY Flashlight

When it comes to flashlights, is there such a thing as too bright? Some powerful consumer-grade handheld LED flashlights reach 1,000 to 2,000 lumens, or even more. We can tell you firsthand from our recent experiences with a 2,500-lumen Olight R50 Seeker that this is a lot of light output. You essentially need to be outside to use such a powerful light to its full potential, since splash-back during indoor use can be blindingly bright. Regardless, it's nice to have this massive output on tap—you can turn day to night at the flip of a switch.

fenix-ld75c-flashlight-close-up

This Fenix LD75C produces 4,200 lumens, but that's still nowhere near the DIY flashlight seen below.

In most circumstances, we'd consider a 1,000+ lumen flashlight to be quite powerful. So, we don't really have the words to describe a light that produces 72 times that amount. In a recent video, YouTube channel host Samm Sheperd created a DIY flashlight that easily achieves 72,000 lumens. It's composed of eight powerful LEDs, focused by individual lenses, and powered by a set of three 3-cell lithium battery packs which produce 36 volts.

DIY LED flashlight water cooled electronics 1

This light vaguely resembles some sort of Martian weapon from a sci-fi movie.

Now, if you've ever worked with powerful LED lights before, you'll likely know that heat creates a host of problems. Many off-the-shelf flashlights (including the Olight R50 we mentioned) have to ramp down output after a minute or two, otherwise the LED will become hot enough to melt or damage sensitive circuitry. To avoid this problem, Sheperd bought some water-cooling components designed for gaming computer builds, and adhered them to the LED array. A tiny pump and radiator circulates cool water over the LED cases, preventing heat damage—pretty ingenious.

DIY LED flashlight water cooled electronics 2

The results are pretty mind-blowing. Check out the video below:

At the end of the video, Sheperd adds three more LEDs to bring output to 100,000 lumens—because why not. So, do you think there's such a thing as too bright? Let us know in the comments.


How to Crack a Bike Lock in an Emergency

In an emergency bug-out scenario, preexisting transportation plans can easily backfire. Your primary escape route may be blocked by excessive traffic, or your vehicle may break down unexpectedly. If SHTF and you desperately need to get out of town quickly, it's wise to know additional methods of obtaining a ride. In urban areas, bicycles are especially common, and will often be left behind or abandoned when disaster strikes. In these life-and-death scenarios, defeating a bike lock could provide a means to escape danger much faster than walking.

Bicycles can be found throughout virtually all urban areas, and are often abandoned during disasters.

Bicycles can be found throughout all urban areas, and are often abandoned during disasters.

Disclaimer: we're obviously not advocating the use of this knowledge for any illegal purposes. It should only be used as an absolute last resort to escape mortal danger, and if you are forced to use a locked bicycle under these circumstances, you should always return it as soon as possible. Nobody likes thieves, so don't steal.

Crack bike lock combination bicycle 3

Most bicycles in cities and towns will be locked to poles, railings, and other stationary objects with some form of combination lock. Whether you're in a major emergency, or you simply forgot the combination to your own lock, it can be useful to know how to crack a bike lock. Most bike locks use a set of four combination dials, connected to a strong metal cable. While you could cut the cable with bolt cutters, it's actually much easier to unlock using a little manual pressure.

Here's how it's done:

The key is to use one hand to apply tension to the cable, which will cause the dials to fall into place as they unlock. Now that you know this trick, it should serve as a reminder that most consumer-grade locks are surprisingly easy to crack. So, if you have a bike, you may want to upgrade to a solid metal lock with a key, rather than a combination cable.


Waterproof Flashlights – Highlights

Electronic circuit boards are one of the greatest inventions of the 20th century. These microscopic networks of conductive pathways transmit millions of energy pulses in the blink of an eye. However, there's one common substance that can bring this brilliant electronic ballet to a grinding halt: water.

Even a single drop of moisture has the power to corrode and short out components, leading to malfunctions or total failure. If you've ever spilled coffee on your laptop or dropped your smartphone in the porcelain throne, you know firsthand the vulnerability of these devices.

Flashlights are at a higher risk than other electronics, as they're frequently used in circumstances where moisture is present. As a result, many flashlights are rated as water-resistant, meaning they can withstand splashes and spills. Truly waterproof flashlights, however, are held to a much higher standard of waterproofosity. These lights must continue to operate normally while completely immersed in water.

Read on for our thoughts on seven of the latest waterproof flashlights, and find out which can keep shining brightly — come hell or high water.

Waterproof Flashlights

  • Fenix PD35 Tactical

    Make & Model - Fenix PD35 Tactical
    Max Lumen Output - 1,000
    Max Runtime - 140 hrs.
    Overall Length - 5.5 in.
    Weight with Batteries - 4.8 oz.
    Battery Type - Rechargeable 18650 (one, not included) or CR123 (two, not included)
    Controls - Push-button tail cap, side mode selector button
    Output Modes - Turbo, high, medium, low, eco, strobe
    Waterproof Rating - 2-meter immersion
    MSRP - $72
    URL - http://www.fenixlight.com

    The PD35 TAC features sturdy construction, strong waterproofing, and an intense 1,000-lumen output.

  • Foursevens Quark Smart QS2L-X

    Make & Model - Foursevens Quark Smart QS2L-X
    Max Lumen Output - 950
    Max Runtime - 456 hrs.
    Overall Length - 4.8 in.
    Weight with Batteries - 3 oz.
    Battery Type - CR123 (two, included)
    Controls - Push-button tail cap (momentary only) and side button, customizable via Foursevens Smart Flashlights iPhone/iPad App
    Output Modes - High, medium, low, moonlight, strobe, SOS, beacon high, beacon low
    Waterproof Rating - 3-meter immersion
    MSRP: - $75
    URL - http://www.foursevens.com

    To say the Quark Smart is high-tech would be an understatement.

  • LED Lenser F1

    Make & Model - LED Lenser F1
    Max Lumen Output - 400
    Max Runtime - 3.5 hrs.
    Overall Length - 3.5 in.
    Weight with Batteries - 2.5 oz.
    Battery Type - CR123 (one, included)
    Controls - Push-button tail cap
    Output Modes - High, low, strobe
    Waterproof Rating - 2.5-meter immersion
    MSRP - $80
    URL - http://www.ledlenserusa.com

    The F1 is the little brother to the F1R we tested back in Issue 10, and it runs on a single CR123 instead of the F1R's larger 18650 battery.

  • Olight R50 Seeker

    Make & Model - Olight R50 Seeker
    Max Lumen Output - 2,500
    Max Runtime - 50 hrs.
    Overall Length - 5.2 in.
    Weight with Batteries - 9.1 oz.
    Battery Type - Rechargeable 26650 (one, included)
    Controls - Side push-button with lockout mode
    Output Modes - Turbo, high, medium, low, strobe
    Waterproof Rating - 2-meter immersion
    MSRP - $120
    URL - http://www.olightworld.com

    The R50 Seeker packs a serious 2,500-lumen punch. That's more than double the output of its predecessor, the R40, and far more than the other lights we tested.

  • Pelican Nemo 1960 LED

    Make & Model - Pelican Nemo 1960 LED
    Max Lumen Output - 34
    Max Runtime - 3.5 hrs.
    Overall Length - 5.5 in.
    Weight with Batteries - 1.9 oz.
    Battery Type - AAA (two, included)
    Controls - Twist-on shroud
    Output Modes - N/A
    Waterproof Rating - 100-meter immersion
    MSRP - $24
    URL - http://www.pelican.com

    The Nemo 1960 really shines underwater, if you'll forgive the pun.

  • Secur SP-1002

    Make & Model - Secur SP-1002
    Max Lumen Output - 8
    Max Runtime - 8 hrs.
    Overall Length - 6 in.
    Weight with Batteries - 6.1 oz.
    Battery Type - Built-in rechargeable
    Controls - Push-button switch
    Output Modes - High, low, flashing
    Waterproof Rating - 13.7-meter immersion
    MSRP - $23
    URL - http://www.securproducts.com

    This is a rechargeable flashlight, but not in the sense you might expect.

  • Streamlight ProTac HL

    Make & Model - Streamlight ProTac HL
    Max Lumen Output - 750
    Max Runtime - 18 hrs.
    Overall Length - 5.4 in.
    Weight with Batteries - 5.9 oz.
    Battery Type - CR123 (two, included)
    Controls - Push-button switch with on-off and momentary modes
    Output Modes - High, low, strobe
    Waterproof Rating - 1-meter immersion for up to 30 minutes
    MSRP - $135
    URL - http://www.streamlight.com

    This light produces 750 lumens and runs on two CR123 batteries.

More From Issue 16

Don’t miss essential survival insights—sign up for Recoil Offgrid's free newsletter today.

Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 17

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 15

Check out our other publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade | RecoilTV | RECOILtv (YouTube)

Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original print version for the web.


Casio G-SHOCK Desert Camouflage Watches

Casio G-SHOCK has announced the launch of a new Desert Camouflage Series of outdoor watches. These new timepieces include MUDMAN, RANGEMAN, and MUDMASTER models, all of which are a part of the Master of G line. Each watch has a military-inspired design, with a black bezel, light brown lettering, orange accents, and a desert camo wristband.

Above: the Casio G-SHOCK MUDMAN GW9300DC-1 has a mud-resistant case, reverse LCD display, and Twin Sensor (compass/thermometer). MSRP: $350

All three of these new watches are powered by G-SHOCK's Tough Solar system, which uses integrated solar panels to gather energy from the sun during normal use. This solar energy is then stored in a rechargeable battery that powers all the watch's functions, including Multiband 6 atomic timekeeping. The atomic system allows the watch to receive calibration signals from radio transmitters around the globe, ensuring your watch is accurate down to the second.

Above: the Casio G-SHOCK RANGEMAN GW9400DCJ-1 uses a standard LCD display, plus a Triple Sensor (altimeter/barometer, compass, and thermometer). MSRP: $450

As expected from G-SHOCK, these three watches are designed to withstand the company's 7 Elements: electric shock resistance, gravity resistance, low temperature resistance, vibration resistance, water resistance (200 meters, in this case), shock resistance and toughness. The MUDMAN and MUDMASTER models are also mud-resistant for added protection during wilderness survival scenarios.

Above: the Casio G-SHOCK MUDMASTER GWG1000DC-1A5, with a combination of analog and digital features. This variant also features a Triple Sensor (altimeter/barometer, compass, and thermometer) and sapphire crystal. MSRP: $800

These three new watches will be available beginning in October via select retail stores and www.gshock.com.


RECOILtv: Armed Ronin

RECOILtv has unleashed a new viral video, and it's definitely a sight to behold if you're into bikes, guns, video games, or action films (or all of the above). Armed Ronin was filmed in an abandoned nuclear power plant, and features some impressive stunt riding on a very special custom motorcycle: the Magpul Ronin.

RECOILtv Ronin motorcycle video 2

The Ronin was inspired by the now-defunct American sport bike manufacturer Buell, picking up where it left off—and then some. It uses a custom monoshock suspension linkage, front-mounted radiator, unitized handlebar, ram-air intake, cast aluminum tail, and many other outside-the-box characteristics. Like its namesake, there are 47 of these Ronin motorcycles in existence.

RECOILtv Ronin motorcycle video 3

Of course, it wouldn't be a RECOILtv video without some cool firearm content. The video is packed with gear from AR500 Armor, Century Arms, FN, ShootSteel.com, SIG SAUER, SilencerCo, Spike’s Tactical, and Trijicon. There are also some video-game-inspired special effects to bring it all together.

Check out the full Armed Ronin video below:

For more videos from RECOIL, check out RECOILweb.com/recoiltv.


Can Blowguns Work for Survival Situations?

Warning
The concepts shown here are for illustrative purposes only. Seek professional training from a reputable instructor before attempting any techniques discussed or shown in this story.

Long before anyone ever lit a cannon fuse or pressed a trigger, some evil genius in a tactical loincloth discovered that if you put something into a hollow tube and blew into one end, it would fly out the other end with enough energy to cause trouble. That simple discovery, the blowgun, ultimately became the basis of all barreled weapons — especially when another evil genius figured out how to replace lung power with gunpowder.

Although the exact history of the blowgun is unclear, it appears that people in various parts of the world independently discovered the concept of a breath-powered weapon over a thousand years ago. Blowguns were widely used in the Philippines, Japan, and among Native American tribes in the Southeastern USA, but they reached their greatest potential in the Amazon basin of South America and the Malay Archipelago. That's no coincidence, as both those areas had species of plants that could be used to make potent poisons — the kind that transformed low-powered blowgun darts into true killing projectiles and made them effective against more than snack-sized animals.

Even without poison, blowguns are surprisingly powerful and accurate. With the right kind of projectiles, they're very capable of taking down many types of small game. They also offer some unique advantages that make them ideal weapons for preppers. If you don't already have one in your TEOTWAWKI kit, by the time you're done reading this article, you'll want one.

Two traditional blowguns, from Malaysia (with mouthpiece on left) and the Philippines. Their darts consisted of thin bamboo shafts with

Two traditional blowguns, from Malaysia (with mouthpiece on left) and the Philippines. Their darts consisted of thin...

Blowgun Basics

A blowgun is about as simple as it gets. In its basic form, it consists of a rigid tube with a smooth bore typically somewhere between 3?8 and 5?8 inch in diameter and anywhere from 2 to more than 10 feet long. Typically it's equipped with a mouthpiece at the breech end to allow a better air seal and more effectively focus the shooter's breath into the tube. That's it.

Traditional blowguns were usually made of wood or natural reeds, sometimes even featuring composite tube-within-a-tube construction. Southeast Asian ‘guns were most often made of bamboo, providing a significant head start for fashioning the bore. In South America, however, blowguns were crafted by the laborious process of either drilling through the length of a solid piece of wood or splitting the wood, carving a groove in each half, and gluing it back together to create the bore. Longer ‘guns were also either pre-bent or bored on a bias to compensate for the sagging effects of gravity.

Modern blowguns are generally made of seamless aluminum tubing with injection-molded plastic mouthpieces and quivers for carrying darts.

Modern blowguns are generally made of seamless aluminum tubing with injection-molded plastic mouthpieces and quivers...

Today's commercial blowguns take the same simple design and render it with precision tolerances and more modern materials — seamless aluminum tubing for the barrel and injection-molded plastic mouthpieces. These improvements minimize leakage of air around the projectile and make the most of what your lungs have to offer. Forty-caliber ‘guns are by far the most common, but .38-, .50-, and .625-caliber are also readily available. In addition to conventional one-piece blowguns, you can also find backpackable takedown models with multiple barrel sections joined by plastic or metal couplings.

Projectiles

The most common type of blowgun projectile is a dart consisting of a needle-like shaft and a “stopper” of some sort at the rear end that creates an air seal in the bore of the ‘gun. Native darts were generally made of thin shafts of bamboo or hardwood with cork, kapok, or thistledown seals. Poison-coated darts were small and lightweight, but unpoisoned darts sometimes had hand-carved broadhead points and functioned like small arrows.

Native darts often had points carved into miniature broadheads to increase their effectiveness on game. Instead of wooden seals, many of them also used Q-Tip-like stoppers of twisted thistledown, kapok, or similar fiber.

Native darts often had points carved into miniature broadheads to increase their effectiveness on game. Instead of...

Modern blowgun darts are more high-tech, using spring steel wire for the shaft and aerodynamic injection-molded plastic cones for the seal. Since the wire creates a very small wound channel, hunting darts sometimes also have plastic or steel broadheads to increase their lethality.

Modern blowgun darts have mild steel or spring steel shafts and molded plastic beads or cones to provide a seal in the 'gun's bore.

Modern blowgun darts have mild steel or spring steel shafts and molded plastic beads or cones to provide a seal in the...

In addition to darts, both primitive and modern blowguns can also shoot impact projectiles ranging from hardened clay pellets to blunt steel-tipped darts to paintballs.

Factory-made blowgun projectiles also include impact or

Factory-made blowgun projectiles also include impact or “stun” darts and even safety-tipped darts for use...

Performance Check

So what can a blowgun really do? Well, in terms of muzzle energy, they're not nearly as potent as more advanced weapons like firearms. The average .40-caliber blowgun dart weighs about 14 grains. Out of a 4-foot blowgun, that dart will achieve a muzzle velocity of about 155 fps, yielding a muzzle energy of about 0.76 ft-lb. Ballistically, that's nothing to brag about; however, it's still enough to bury the shaft of a sharp spring steel dart several inches deep into soft flesh.

The author chronographing a .40-caliber blowgun. Note that the dart has just exited the muzzle. Blowguns can typically achieve muzzle velocities of 150 to 200 fps.

The author chronographing a .40-caliber blowgun. Note that the dart has just exited the muzzle. Blowguns can typically...

Larger calibers, like .625, usually use much heavier darts (about 44 grains), but produce about the same muzzle velocity. That translates to greater muzzle energy — about 2.33 ft-lb — but at the expense of a shorter effective range. In 40 years of making, shooting, and testing blowguns of all different sizes, I've found that bore diameters of .50 to .625 harness a shooter's breath best and are generally the most powerful. While they don't hold a candle to a firearm or even an airgun, a well-shot blowgun dart can easily penetrate 3?8-inch plywood — more than enough power to skewer a small animal.

The blowgun is deceptively powerful. Well-shot darts can penetrate 3?8-inch plywood and even a steel trashcan lid.

The blowgun is deceptively powerful. Well-shot darts can penetrate 3?8-inch plywood and even a steel trashcan lid.

The maximum range of a typical 6-foot, .40-caliber blowgun is about 100 yards. Its maximum effective range, however, is substantially less. Most blowguns don't have sights and are aimed instinctively — like “gap” shooting with a bow. Their low velocities also mean rainbow-like trajectories, further limiting practical accuracy. Nevertheless, with a little practice, even novice shooters can consistently hit a grapefruit-sized target at up to 50 feet with enough energy to penetrate deeply.

What Good Is It?

Besides being tons of fun to shoot, blowguns offer a number of advantages to survivalists, including:

  • They're inexpensive.
  • They're virtually silent.
  • Both ‘guns and ammo can be stored indefinitely.
  • Ammo can be reused many times.
  • They can be shot safely and inconspicuously in areas where ‘guns can't.
  • They shoot a wide range of projectiles.

What does all that mean? Well, if society crumbles and a gang of looters is approaching your house, spitting darts at them shouldn't be your first choice. However, if the system is down, it's been a month since your garbage has been picked up, and you're worried about the newly arrived vermin frolicking in your trashcans, the blowgun is the perfect tool.

Similarly, a blowgun would allow you to hunt any meal-worthy critters that wander into range without endangering neighbors, revealing your activity, or burning firearm ammo that might be better reserved for more serious needs.

While working in Vietnam and Laos in the early 1990s, the author included a .40-caliber takedown blowgun in his kit to cope with the constant rodent visitors. This rat — shot in the lobby of a Hai Phong hotel — weighed about 3 pounds and was killed with a single homemade dart.

While working in Vietnam and Laos in the early 1990s, the author included a .40-caliber takedown blowgun in his kit to...

In the late 1980s and early '90s, I worked for U.S. government agencies investigating the fates of American POW/MIAs from the Vietnam War. I regularly worked in remote areas of Vietnam and Laos and in refugee camps throughout Southeast Asia — places that had two things in common: They didn't permit firearms, and they were heavily populated by rats. After a few unpleasant rodent run-ins, I was determined to fight back and started packing a .40-caliber takedown blowgun in my kit. Unlike a firearm or even an airgun, it didn't look like a weapon (especially disassembled) and was innocuous enough to fly under my hosts' radar.

At first, I used the standard 3- to 4-inch spring steel darts that came with the ‘gun. Although I had no problem hitting the rats and burying the darts completely into their nasty little bodies, the result was a population of very pissed off rodent versions of Pinhead from Hellraiser. To fix the problem, I crafted more potent darts with thicker, longer spring steel shafts and paper cone stoppers. If possible, I tried to shoot the rats as they scurried along the baseboard.

The longer, heavier darts would go right through the rat and have enough power to stick into the wall, pinning it in place for an easy second shot or a quick smack with a hammer. Even if it wasn't stuck to the wall as a rat kebob, it was a lot harder for the critter to run into holes, crevices, and all the other places wounded rats go to die — again providing the opportunity for follow-up shots if necessary.

DIY

Because blowguns and the projectiles they shoot are so simple, they make outstanding expedient weapons and are great DIY projects for preppers. For the ‘gun itself, all you need is a length of straight, rigid tubing 4- to 6-feet long with a smooth interior and a suitable bore diameter. Aluminum tubing, plastic, PVC, and copper plumbing pipe, and even electrical conduit all work well, as long as you deburr or chamfer both ends of the tube so your darts will fly true. A simple mouthpiece can be crafted from the neck of a 2-liter soda bottle and a few wraps of duct tape, but rubber crutch tips and pill bottles also work great.

Improvised dart shafts can be crafted from music wire, bicycle spokes, nails, bamboo BBQ skewers, and even paper clips. Dart seals can be made from cotton balls, paper cones, hobby pom poms, plastic beads, and any other lightweight material that will fit your 'gun's bore.

Improvised dart shafts can be crafted from music wire, bicycle spokes, nails, bamboo BBQ skewers, and even paper clips....

Darts are also quick and easy to make. For the shaft material you can use bamboo BBQ skewers, bicycle spokes, nails, wire clothes hangers, straightened paperclips, and of course spring steel wire from the hobby shop. The easiest way to make an air seal is to notch the rear end of the dart or coat it with a drop of Super Glue and then wind a cotton ball around it. Pull the cotton ball apart a bit and spin the dart in your fingers so the cotton wraps around the shaft. Keep going until you achieve the appropriate diameter for a good air seal in your ‘gun's bore.

Cotton ball seals are great because they act almost like the fletching of an arrow to help stabilize darts in flight, though they don't hold up well to multiple shots and must be replaced. If you prefer darts that can be reused more readily, air seals can also be made from rolled paper cones (secured with Scotch tape), plastic beads, corks, golf tees, or anything else that fits your bore snugly and isn't too heavy. When crafting your darts, it helps a lot to cut a short section of your barrel tubing as a size gauge. If they're too big, it's much easier to push a stuck dart out of a 2-inch tube than a 6-foot one.

Because of their simplicity, blowguns are very easy to make from readily available materials, as these DIY 'guns illustrate.

Because of their simplicity, blowguns are very easy to make from readily available materials, as these DIY ‘guns...

If you're not the DIY type, the internet is full of sources for commercial blowguns, dart kits, impact projectiles, ‘gun-mounted quivers, and lots of other stuff. Some overachieving types have even developed magazine-fed and revolver-style multi-shot attachments as well as laser sights to pimp your blowgun. Give a man a rope and he wants to be a cowboy ….

Blowgun Technique

Before shooting your blowgun, first find an appropriate target. Steel-shafted darts easily penetrate deep enough into wood to require pliers to pull them out, so opt for a thick piece of foam or layered, corrugated cardboard instead. You want enough density to stop the dart without shearing off its head, while allowing the shaft to be easily removed. Place your target in a safe, controlled area away from people, pets, and anything else that you really wouldn't want to skewer with a fast-moving, sharp piece of steel.

Hold your blowgun with one hand near the mouthpiece and the other supporting the body of the ‘gun. I prefer to put my dominant hand in front with my index finger extended along the barrel to help point the ‘gun naturally.

can-blowguns-work-for-survival-situations-blowgun-target-practice

Although it doesn't have sights, the blowgun can be amazingly accurate. Here the author easily puts a cluster of darts in an apple from about 25 feet.

Although it doesn't have sights, the blowgun can be amazingly accurate. Here the author easily puts a cluster of...

Load the dart into the breech end and, with your mouth well away from the mouthpiece, take a deep breath. Press the mouthpiece tightly to your lips, aim the ‘gun at the target, and blow explosively into the ‘gun. Don't use a steady stream of breath; contract your diaphragm hard and try to replicate the explosion of gunpowder with your lungs. As you get more comfortable with the process, focus on making the power of your breath consistent so you can achieve consistent velocity and flight of your darts.

Next, mark a specific aiming point on the target and orient the muzzle of the ‘gun so it appears to point right at it. Because your line of sight is above the ‘gun, you'll naturally point high, compensating for the dart's drop. Shoot a few more darts to achieve a consistent group, and then adjust your point of aim to move your group to the desired point of impact. Then, do the same thing at different ranges until you can quickly judge distance to the target and adjust your aim appropriately.

Because they're virtually silent and low powered, blowguns can also be used to hunt meals of opportunity in environments where firearms would be too dangerous or attract unwanted attention.

Because they're virtually silent and low powered, blowguns can also be used to hunt meals of opportunity in...

If you plan to hunt or control pests with your blowgun, practice shooting 3D targets like fruit, vegetables, and stuffed animals you bought your ex-girlfriend. Try it from various angles and distances. Unlike flat targets, they'll give you a better idea of the path of your dart's wound channel through the “animal's” vitals. Make sure you back your targets with a suitable backstop, as missed shots can fly a long way and trying to find lost darts in your lawn can be a painful process.

Blowguns are not the mysterious assassin's weapons you've seen in bad ninja movies, nor are they just oversized spitball launchers. Cheap, silent, versatile, easy to make, and easy to use, they offer convenient, controllable close-range killing power that can be very useful in many survival contexts.

Told you you'd want one ….

The 90-Second Blowgun DIY

How easy is it to make a functional blowgun and dart? You don't need to be MacGyver to do it. After 40 years of rolling my own blowguns, I've come up with a dead simple DIY method that anyone can do at almost no cost. How simple? How about 90 seconds from parts and tools to the first shot?

can-blowguns-work-for-survival-situations-90-second-diy-blowgun-materials

1. Here's what you'll need:

  • A 5-foot length of 1/2-inch Schedule 40 PVC tubing
  • An empty soda bottle
  • Electrical tape or duct tape
  • A wire coat hanger
  • Cotton balls
  • Wire cutters
  • A knife and/or scissors

can-blowguns-work-for-survival-situations-soda-bottle-neck

2. First, use the knife to cut the neck off the soda bottle and trim it so there are no sharp edges. You want the last couple of inches for your mouthpiece.

can-blowguns-work-for-survival-situations-soda-bottle-neck-mouth-piece

3. Slip the mouthpiece over one end of the barrel tube.

can-blowguns-work-for-survival-situations-diy-mouthpiece

4. It's inside diameter is slightly larger than the outside diameter of the tube (0.84-inch), so add a few wraps of tape to hold it in place and ensure a good air seal. Your blowgun is finished.

can-blowguns-work-for-survival-situations-coat-hanger-wire

5. To make a dart, cut a section of wire from the coat hanger about 8 inches long. Then use the wire cutters to make a few notches in one end of the wire.

can-blowguns-work-for-survival-situations-cotton-battl-air-seal

6. Holding the wire in one hand and a cotton ball in the other, spin the wire between your fingers and allow the notches to snag the cotton. Keep spinning and allow the cotton ball to unravel as it winds around the wire. Keep going until it looks like a big Q-Tip and keep shaping it with your fingers until it fits into the bore of your ‘gun well enough to create a good air seal.

can-blowguns-work-for-survival-situations-test-fitting

7. Test the fit of your dart seal in the ‘gun then reshape it as necessary.

can-blowguns-work-for-survival-situations-test-fire

8. Then load and shoot.

can-blowguns-work-for-survival-situations-test-firing

9. I did this entire process — including firing my first dart into a target — in 92 seconds. (OK, OK, so I was 2 seconds over … I took a moment to aim, alright?) The dart stuck solidly into a piece of 3?8-inch plywood with about 1?8-inch of the point poking out the other side. Take that, MacGyver.

can-blowguns-work-for-survival-situations-dart-removal

10. Vise Grips are a great investment for blowgunners and are the best (sometimes only) way to pull darts out of wooden targets or backstops.

More From Issue 16

Don’t miss essential survival insights—sign up for Recoil Offgrid's free newsletter today.

Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 17

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 15

Check out our other publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade | RecoilTV | RECOILtv (YouTube)

Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original print version for the web.