Ground-Fighting Realities and How Not to Get Stomped into a Stain

Warning!
The concepts shown here are for illustrative purposes only. Seek a reputable instructor before attempting any techniques discussed or shown in this story.

When people fight, it's not unusual for at least one of them to end up on the ground. While it's probably not the 90 percent probability touted by the people who teach grappling for a living, the odds are still pretty high so it makes sense to add some ground-fighting to your combative skillset. But before you run down to the local jiu-jitsu school and sign up, you might want to think about what you're really trying to achieve.

Since you happen to be reading a magazine about survival, let's take a leap of logic and assume that your major concern is defending yourself against a real-life violent attack. If that's the case, skip the latest UFC pay-per-view and head to the Internet — specifically YouTube, Live Leak, and similar video sites. Type in “street attack” and take a look at a few videos. Chances are good that in those videos you'll see some of the victims get knocked to the ground. Chances are also good that instead of following their target to the ground to finish the job, most of the attackers will take the logical, easy, and brutal route of kicking and stomping their victim. They sure as hell won't get him in a cross arm-bar or triangle choke to take his wallet.

No doubt criminals enjoy watching MMA fights just as much as the rest of us, but when they've spotted a target, they'll stick to what works. Kicks use the largest, strongest limbs to generate force, and stomps use body weight to add to that power. Since both are typically delivered with shoes or boots to a target supported by a solid surface (the ground), the damage they can cause is devastating.

A medical study published in 2004 focusing on the pathological effects of kicking deaths determined that kicks are 35 to 45 percent more powerful than hand strikes and that powerful kicks on the ground generated forces equivalent to a 30-mph head-on car crash. Learning how to keep that from happening to you should therefore be a priority in your training and preparations.

Why? It's not rocket science to conclude that desperate people will do desperate things during desperate times. A group of marauders could ambush you after law and order have ceased to exist. You could be surrounded by an angry mob during some intense civil unrest. Or, tomorrow you could simply be walking out of a store to your car and get jumped by a thug. Therefore, it's never too late to learn how to survive an unexpected invitation to a boot party.

Have a Nice Trip

The best defense against getting kicked and stomped is not ending up on the ground in the first place. You should obviously make that a priority in all your training, but don't pretend you're immune to getting knocked down. Once you accept that, your next step should be to learn how to fall without getting hurt. This is actually one of the most useful skills you can learn and a good reason to train in a martial art like judo or jiu-jitsu that incorporates lots of throws.

Unfortunately, traditional ukemi (break-falls) that involve slapping the mat to disperse the force of your fall don't translate well to concrete and asphalt. The basic concepts of rounding your body (like the rockers on a rocking chair), tucking your chin to protect your head, and using your feet and butt to absorb the shock of a fall are more adaptable to hard surfaces than slap-style falls. The safest method I've found is to first learn the traditional falls on a mat, and then deemphasize the slappy part to focus on the other mechanics. Once you can fall on a mat without slapping, gradually progress to thinner mats and harder surfaces.how-to-fall-safely

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Falling safely is a vital skill in ground-fighting. The slap-happy break-falls that work on a mat don't translate well to concrete and asphalt, where a hands-free

Falling safely is a vital skill in ground-fighting. The slap-happy break-falls that work on a mat don't translate...

Get Up

Another key tactic that will keep you from becoming the guest of honor at a boot party is to not stay on the ground if you end up there. Getting up quickly gets you back in the fight on much better terms, but, again, you need to do it in a way that fits the reality of your situation.

MMA rules prohibit kicking a downed opponent, so many competition methods of getting up involve “posting” with the hands to get your feet under you more quickly. Yes, this is fast, but it leaves your head an unguarded foot magnet. If your physical attributes allow it, you should learn how to get up without having to use your hands so you can use them to guard your head throughout the process.

Basic Ground Defense

If you can't get up before your attacker closes the distance, you need to assume a good defensive posture. This position must allow you to protect your vital areas and to disable anyone who comes within range. The best weapon for this is your strong-side leg, so you also want to make sure you can pivot your body effectively to aim that leg and keep it between you and your attacker. Assuming the worst-case scenario — that your attacker has friends — your defensive position must also allow you to achieve as close to a 360-degree defense as possible.

Many martial arts advocate laying on your side and side-kicking your attacker. That may work well with a single attacker, but if he has friends, that position leaves your spine and head vulnerable.

Many martial arts advocate laying on your side and side-kicking your attacker. That may work well with a single...

The position that best meets all these criteria is lying on your back with your chin tucked to your chest, your arms guarding your head and neck, and your legs drawn in. The foot of your non-dominant leg should be planted flat, close to your butt so it can turn your body and direct your other leg, which is chambered to thrust out at your attacker's shins and knees.

Your basic plan goes like this: When an attacker tries to close in, pivot to keep him at your feet. When he gets close enough, stomp straight into his shin or knee with your power leg. Your kick should be a thrusting motion with your heel or the bottom of your foot, and your toes should be turned out so your foot hits perpendicular to his vertical leg.

Kicking low and targeting the attacker's legs keeps him as far away as possible and makes it hard for him to block. The higher you kick, the closer he can get to you and the easier it is for him to block or grab your foot. If you land a solid kick and lock out his leg, his head may pitch forward. If this happens, take the shot and go for it, but otherwise keep your kicks low.

This same tactic can also be used to defend against kicks, if you can get your feet between you and the incoming kick in time. If he's kicking hard and fast, kick the shin of his kicking leg as it approaches. Don't just block it — kick it. Then immediately follow with a full-power kick to his supporting leg, ideally at the knee or the inside of the ankle. If he's slower or draws his leg back very far before kicking, don't wait for it. Attack his support leg directly, aiming for the knee or ankle, which suffer more damage when they're supporting the body's entire weight.

The author's preferred guard position protects your spine by lying flat, protects your head with both arms, and protects your groin with your raised knees. His left leg allows him to pivot while his right leg — his primary weapon — stays aimed at the attacker. This position allows effective defenses against attacks coming from almost any direction.

The author's preferred guard position protects your spine by lying flat, protects your head with both arms, and...

Kicks from the Sides

If you can't pivot quickly enough or if you're facing multiple assailants, you may find yourself getting attacked from the side. To defend against soccer-style kicks to the ribs or head, raise your knee on that side of your body until it contacts your same-side elbow while still protecting your head. As the kick approaches, roll toward it and use the frame you created with your arm and leg to stop it short. This will jam it before full extension and kill its power.

Once you've stopped the kick, immediately lower the elbow of the blocking arm to your ribs so your hand hooks the attacker's kicking foot and pins it to the ground. As you do this, spin your legs toward your attacker and press the shin of your blocking leg against the shin of his kicking leg. Done properly, you'll pin his kicking foot to the ground and lock out his knee, throwing him off balance. With him momentarily tied up and fighting to keep his balance, take the opportunity to drive the heel of your other foot into his groin. Besides creating impact and pain, your objective is to drive his hips backward and put him on the ground. If you're lucky, he'll fall flat on his tailbone and fracture it. If you have a different kind of luck, the groin shot will bring his head forward as another target.

As soon as you have the opportunity to get up, seize it. As you do, pin his feet to the ground so he doesn't try to kick you again and keep him down by targeting his ankle with stomps of your own.

Practice this tactic on both sides, learning to quickly create the frame, roll into the kick, and trap the kicking foot. Also have your training partner kick with both his left and right legs so you learn how to adapt based on what you get. If his choice of kicking leg makes it difficult to kick him in the groin, practice kicking his support-leg knee instead. If he's too close to achieve shin-to-shin pressure, hook your thigh behind his foot to lock it down and stick with the plan.blocking-kick-to-your-side-while-on-the-ground

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When the assailant attempts to kick him from the side, the defender creates a knee-to-elbow

When the assailant attempts to kick him from the side, the defender creates a knee-to-elbow “frame” and...

Not Getting Stomped

Stomps are incredibly dangerous because they're powerful and put you between a boot and a hard place. According to the aforementioned 2004 study, the head and neck are the targets of choice. Sixty-four percent of the cases studied had skull fractures and 29 percent had fractures of the throat skeleton. On the positive side, these statistics strongly indicate that an attacker who tries to stomp you will seek a target that's close to your hands. That actually helps your defense.

As before, if you can't get up or get your feet between you and your assailant, protect yourself by assuming the flat-back guard described earlier. When the attacker raises his foot to stomp, quickly reach up and grab it with both hands. While it's still at its highest point, forcefully move the foot to one side of your body or the other. Redirecting his foot in the middle of the stomp will throw him off balance and may put him on the ground. If not, it'll at least open up targets for you to attack. If you moved his foot across your body, his groin will be staring at you waiting for a knee or a kick. Planting his kicking foot on the same side will probably turn him and expose his back. Kick the back of his knees to drop him or literally kick his ass to drive him away and create a chance to get up.

“Kicking a man when he's down” is a go-to tactic for street criminals. If you want to be a survivor instead of a stain, make preventing it and defending against it a priority in your training.

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8 While distracted by one assailant, our defender gets cold-cocked by a second. He manages his fall and assumes a good ground guard just in time. When one assailant attempts to stomp him, the defender reaches up and grabs the foot at its highest point. He then moves it across his body, off-balancing the assailant and throwing him to the ground. Pinning the assailant's legs as he gets up, the defender bounces his head off the asphalt with a few palm strikes as he turns to face the second attacker and prepares to continue his defense.

8 While distracted by one assailant, our defender gets cold-cocked by a second. He manages his fall and assumes a good...

Geometry of Kicking High

One widely taught ground-defense tactic is the “bicycle kick.” Basically, you lie on your back and throw repeated left and right kicks at your attacker's groin or midsection. Done aggressively, the motion of your feet looks like you're riding a bicycle — hence the name.

In my opinion, there are several disadvantages to this technique. Because of the motion it requires, your feet must be vertical as you kick, giving you a fairly narrow “swath” as you kick. Since both feet are kicking, you must also rely on your hands and arms to pivot your body to change direction. Lowering your hands to the ground to pivot leaves your head and neck dangerously exposed, and turning while trying to maintain a continuous barrage of kicks is harder than you think.

Perhaps the greatest shortcoming of this tactic is that it assumes that your attacker will willingly wade into a blender of flailing feet. If he's smart enough to go around, turning to keep up with him will be tough. If he's even slightly smarter, he'll swat your feet aside and walk right over you.

Kicking low, specifically to the shin and the knee, keeps your attacker at maximum range and is likely to break things that he needs to hold himself up. If he can't stand; he can't fight.

Kicking low, specifically to the shin and the knee, keeps your attacker at maximum range and is likely to break things...

If you think about it, your kicking leg is what creates distance between you and your assailant. The higher you raise it, the closer your attacker can get to you and the easier it is for him to parry or grab that leg. Conversely, kicking low keeps him farther away, makes your kicking leg difficult to block, and allows you to attack his knees, ankles, and shins — targets that can destroy his mobility and pave the way for you to get up and get away. For these reasons, it makes more sense to wait for your attacker to get close and present a target before you kick. Then, pick your shot and kick a target that has a high probability of taking him out of the fight while keeping you as far away from his weapons as possible.

One claim you'll sometimes hear from advocates of the bicycle kick is that it has been proven in force-on-force training. While I'm sure it has fared well in that context, it's important to remember that scenario-based training has to be limited to ensure safety. If participants could actually kick role players in the knees, that tactic would also prove effective, but you'd break a lot of role players and your training sessions would be painfully short. Similarly, punching with a boxing glove can be very effective and can be practiced regularly in training, but that doesn't mean it's more effective than ramming your fingers into someone's eyes. Some tactics are just difficult to practice without causing real injury.

The higher you kick, the closer your attacker — and his weapons — can get to you. He also easily swat your feet aside.

The higher you kick, the closer your attacker — and his weapons — can get to you. He also easily swat your feet...

About The Author:

Michael Janich is a noted personal-defense instructor, a member of the prestigious Black Belt Magazine Hall of Fame, and the founder of the Martial Blade Concepts system of knife tactics. He also worked closely with the late Col. Rex Applegate and is one of the foremost modern experts on handgun point shooting.

http://www.martialbladeconcepts.com


WWII Jungle Survival Film “Land and Live in the Jungle”

Survival in adverse conditions is never an easy task, but it has certainly become easier since the invention of the Internet. These days, if you're looking for tips on any sort of survival skill, they're only a Google search away. Even if you're miles from civilization, you may be able to access the web via your smartphone, and find thousands of sites packed with survival information. However, previous generations didn't have these luxuries. They had to learn to survive through word of mouth, books, and occasionally instructional films.

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The U.S. Military produced a number of films over the years to educate soldiers and other personnel on how to survive. It's interesting to take a step back in time, and watch these films to understand how survival skills were viewed in the 1940s.

The following video, known as “Land and Live in the Jungle”, was produced by the U.S. Army Air Forces in 1944. It was intended to educate flight crews about the realities of jungle survival, using a dramatization to tell the story. Check it out:

Of course, a lot has changed in the last 70 years, so we don't agree with all of the advice given in this film. Here are some points we'd like to correct:

  • Benzedrine was then included in medical kits as a stimulant and bronchodilator. We now know it to be a powerful amphetamine with psychoactive and addictive properties.
  • Burning ticks to remove them is not a good idea, as it may increase the likelihood of infection. The proper method is to use tweezers and slowly pull away from the skin.
  • Not all plants and fruits are edible. For example, eating a Manchineel fruit could kill you. It's best to avoid eating unfamiliar plants unless absolutely necessary.
  • Navigating using a watch and the sun isn't necessarily unreliable if done correctly. However, there may be better methods in the tropical jungle, such as constructing a DIY compass.

Nevertheless, many of the tips in this video are still valid today, showing that key survival skills remain relevant across generations.


Mugger Insurance: The Decoy Wallet

Most of us have spent time in big cities or unfamiliar surroundings, and considered the possibility of getting pickpocketed or robbed. Even if you've never had your valuables taken by force, it's a strong possibility in many areas, especially if you don't look like a local or if you're out late at night.

Obviously, you'll want to take standard protective measures, such as observing your surroundings, training in self-defense, and arming yourself. However, there's another step you can take to dramatically reduce the impact of a mugging: carrying a decoy wallet. This second wallet should look and feel realistic, but contain nothing of major value, and nothing that gives away your identity for future attacks.

ITS Tactical recommends carrying several fake

ITS Tactical recommends carrying several fake “John Doe” credit cards in your decoy wallet.

Bryan Black of ITS Tactical wrote an article about his take on the decoy wallet, and it's certainly worth a read. He mentions carrying it in his left-side back pocket, since this leaves his right hand free to draw a weapon if the need arises. He also states that throwing aside the wallet can provide a diversion and means of escape.

So, what should your decoy wallet consist of? Here's a breakdown:

  • A well-worn wallet, preferably one you've used for years and are ready to discard.
  • A few dollars in cash, preferably a five and some ones. Consider this a sacrificial self-defense fee.

    Don't use fake bills or Monopoly money, as it will certainly make your attacker more aggressive if he notices it.

    Don't use fake bills or Monopoly money, as it will certainly make your attacker more aggressive if he notices it.

  • Fake credit cards, such as those found in credit offers and junk mail. You'll have to hope the attacker doesn't notice these, since you don't want to use any expired cards with your real name.
  • A fake photo ID, if you're willing to go to the trouble of making the decoy extra convincing.
  • Other filler items—unused store membership cards, empty gift cards, random business cards, old receipts, coupons

Decoy wallet for muggers 1

If you pay for items in public view, be sure to keep enough cash in the decoy wallet that you can still use it for small purchases.  This will ensure anyone who's watching you won't see your real wallet's location. If you need to add money to the decoy wallet, go into a bathroom or other private location and transfer over just enough cash from your real wallet.

These steps can help you keep your money and identity secure in the event of a mugging. They'll also help you spend less time worrying about financial losses, and more time being aware of your surroundings. For more ways to stay safe in unfamiliar cities, check out our article on scams to avoid around the world.


Big-Bore Airgun Faceoff

Warning
Airguns aren't toys. Handle them like firearms, and obey the four cardinal safety rules: 1. Treat every gun as if it were loaded. 2. Always point the gun in a safe direction; 3. Keep your finger off the trigger until you're ready to fire; and 4. Be aware your target's surroundings.

Mainstream Americans still regard air guns as toys — the BB guns we use to teach our kids when showing them how to shoot and safely handle guns. Most people are astounded when told there are production air guns on the market today that can take down game. More “shock and awe” come when they're clued into the fact that, way back in 1805, Lewis and Clark used a big-bore repeater air gun on their expedition to open the West, and, around the same time, Austrian troops effectively used big-bore air guns as sniper weapons against Napoleon's troops.

One such air gun available today is the Wing Shot from Korean maker Sam Yang. This .50-caliber pre-charged pneumatic shotgun is no toy and can do some serious damage. We took it for a spin to see how well it holds up against a couple other big bores out there.

An Underrated Weapon

Before getting into the comparison, let's take a brief detour to explain the trip down this path. As we mentioned, powerful air guns have been around for a long, long time. However, they weren't readily available. Today's hunter has the ability to easily obtain these guns, and we wanted to get the word out. Second, after the initial investment, these guns are inexpensive to shoot. Third, in all but a few states/municipalities they're not considered firearms and don't require special purchase requirements or paperwork. Fourth, we'll talk a bit about their usefulness in a SHTF scenario.

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Operation of these air rifles is similar to powder-actuated arms, with the additional step of attaching a high-pressure fill hose from an air source to the male foster fill nipple on the air reservoir of each of these guns. Please note that bicycle pumps and garage-type air compressors aren't capable of producing anywhere near the required pressures, so you'll need the proper equipment to charge these guns.

Wing Shot

The Wing Shot is manufactured by Sam Yang Precision Industries, imported by Air Venturi, and sold by Pyramyd Air out of Ohio. Sam Yang has been producing large-bore air guns since 1990. This variant is a single-shot smoothbore capable of firing either proprietary clear plastic shot shells or soft slugs and round ball ammunition. It uses high-pressure air, or HPA, to drive a small clear plastic shell loaded with #6 or #8 shot out of its barrel at considerable velocity. The 3/4-inch-long shells provided with the gun held approximately 120 pellets of #8 shot and 58 pellets of #6 respectively.

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On a full charge of 3,000 pounds per square inch, the shooter can expect two to three full-power shots and possibly three additional low-power shots before it's necessary to top off the reservoir. The Wing Shot provides low- and high-power settings based on how far back the cocking bolt handle is retracted. The bolt resides on the right side of the receiver, resembling that of a modern semi-automatic shotgun, and it cannot be cocked if the safety is on. When the two-stage non-adjustable trigger is pulled, the bolt flies forward and strikes the valve releasing a high-pressure blast of air behind the plastic shotshell.

The Wing Shot's maximum effective range seems to be about 30 yards with the heavier shot. Air Venturi rates the muzzle velocity of the shot at 1,130 fps. The choke is external and removable, and a good practice is to check that it hasn't become loose each time you fill the air reservoir. The shot appears to spread out rather quickly, but aftermarket chokes are available. Still, clays cleanly broke using #6 shot at 20 yards on the low-power setting. For those wishing to experiment, Pyramyd Air sells empty plastic shells so you can create your own loads.

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The Wing Shot can also fire .50-caliber soft lead balls or conical bullets, but being a smoothbore, don't expect pinpoint accuracy. Precise aiming isn't possible due to lack of a rear sight on the stock gun, but a rail is available from Pyramyd Air to mount an optic on the receiver.

When choosing to use the Wing Shot as a slug gun, you'll want to remove the choke, or accuracy will suffer. Shooting round lead balls weighing 176 grains yielded well over 170 foot-pounds of energy — plenty of power to take out predators. The report of the Wing Shot is relatively mild, although it wouldn't be considered a backyard shooter by any means. Shooting outdoors wouldn't necessarily require hearing protection as when firing a powder-burner. However, as with shooting any projectile-firing device, safety glasses are always a must.

Though not a powder-burner, the Wing Shot cleanly broke clays using #6 shot from 20 yards.

Though not a powder-burner, the Wing Shot cleanly broke clays using #6 shot from 20 yards.

Because the Wing Shot can be used as a slug gun, we compared it to a couple of other big-bore lead slingers. The other two were air rifles and, although not an apples-to-apples comparison, we brought them to the range to have some fun. Being air rifles they did have a bit of a leg up on the smoothbore Wing Shot. All three were single-shot air guns and powered by HPA.

AirForce Texan

The AirForce Texan is like the “modern sporting rifle” version of the big bores, all black and devoid of wood furniture. Sleek and minimalist in its design, this .45-caliber single-shot is reminiscent of the AR-15. Its air reservoir is part of the shoulder stock and has a synthetic sleeve to protect the shooter's cheek from the cold aluminum and to facilitate a good cheek-weld. It's pressurized to 3,000 psi for full-power shots. The Texan comes without sights, but built-in rails allow for easy mounting of optics; in this case a 4x32mm AirForce scope. A generous rail underneath the barrel provides ample space for bipod or other accessories.

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Loading and cocking are accomplished by opening the side lever to expose the chamber. Simply load a .457-caliber pellet and return the side lever to its closed position. This action automatically engages the safety incorporated into the front of the trigger guard. The Texan uses the same foster-type quick-disconnect nipple for filling the reservoir as the other two air guns used in this article.

AirForce Airguns advertises the Texan as capable of developing 500 fpe with excellent accuracy. Shooters can expect two full power shots before needing to top off the reservoir.

This is not a toy. This Texan can fire a .457-caliber pellet up to 1,100 fps.

This is not a toy. This Texan can fire a .457-caliber pellet up to 1,100 fps.

AirForce Airguns manufactures this beauty entirely in the United States in Fort Worth. Could be why they called it the Texan. Or the name might have derived from the belief that things are just bigger in Texas, and .45-caliber is definitely big for an air rifle.

Western Big Bore Bushback Magnum

Next up is the Western Big Bore Bushbuck Magnum in .45. This American-made air rifle is more traditional looking with a laminated wood stock, and at 10.25 pounds without optics is the behemoth of the group. At a full charge of 4,500 psi, it's capable of taking any North American game. Also a single-shot, it throws heavier slugs out of its lengthy 30-inch tube and is advertised as obtaining up to 600 fpe!

It loads by a conventional bolt-action, and power level is determined by how far back the bolt is pulled when cocking — first click is low and second is high, just like with the Wing Shot.

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At full power, the shooter can expect two shots before needing to top off the air reservoir. For smaller quarry approximately six low-power shots would be feasible. There's no safety on this model other than the one betwixt your ears. An MTC 5-20x50mm scope mounted on the Bushbuck assisted in highly accurate shots from the bench. Precision Airgun Distributors announced a shortened version, simply called the Bushbuck, for easier carrying in the field. At 6 inches shorter, about 100 fps in velocity is lost, but lighter weight and maneuverability make up for it.

As the Texan and WBB Bushbuck Magnum are rifled arms, a hunter will be able to reach out much further than with the Wing Shot. Effective range on a coyote with the Texan has been recorded to be 200-plus yards. The Bushbuck has been used beyond that range in air rifle bench rest competitions. Ear protection is definitely a must with both of them. As with the other air arms described here, there's little recoil to speak of.

SHTF Worthy?

So, should you consider adding powerful air rifles to your bug-out bag or emergency kit? What about keeping one or more in your mountain or desert hideaway? No one would likely suggest keeping one of these single-shot big bores around as a self-defense weapon in a SHTF scenario, though having something is better than having no lead launcher at all. In terms of putting food on the table, though, these guns definitely fit the bill. Their reduced sound signature and lack of smoke and flame when fired give them a leg up on firearms when you want to keep a low profile.

Low cost per shot means you can practice — a lot. You can even dry-fire practice with most PCP air guns without harm. All that extra shooting doesn't mean extra cleaning though, as air guns generally require less cleaning and maintenance than powder-burners.

Still think of air guns as toys? These .45-cal pellets should change your mind.

Still think of air guns as toys? These .45-cal pellets should change your mind.

Should you find yourself living off the land without electricity and unable to have tanks filled by a dive shop, a hand pump could be used to keep your guns filled with air. However, if you're serious about air guns in your survival planning, check into a gasoline powered HPA compressor.

Lastly, for most Americans, you can own as many as you'd like without any paperwork hassles.

Conclusion

We're fortunate that it's still a free market in this country for high-power air guns, which leads to more innovation and selection for the consumer. Some manufacturers are even coming out with big-bore pistols, as well. Most other countries with a large number of air gun enthusiasts strictly limit the foot-pounds of energy the guns can develop. Big-bore air guns aren't a new invention, but are even more relevant today, especially in light of the self-sufficiency movement in this country. Modern air guns are accurate, well made, and fun to shoot since they don't punish with recoil. These air guns fill a niche that's growing among American shooters.

Sam Yang/Air Venturi Wing ShotAirforce TexanWestern Big Bore Bushbuck
Caliber.50 smoothbore.457.452
StockWood (Sepatia, or Indonesian Walnut)SyntheticLaminated wood
ActionSingle shot
Low & High power settings
Single shot, side lever
Can be tuned for valve hold open
Single shot, bolt action
Low & High power settings
TriggerTwo-stage, non-adjustable
5 pounds, 7 ounces pull weight
Two-stage, adjustable for position
2 pounds, 13 ounces pull weight
Single Stage
3 pounds, 1 ounce pull weight
PowerplantPre-charged pneumatic (HPA)
3,000 psi
Pre-charged (HPA)
3,000 psi
Pre-charged (HPA)
4,500 psi
SightsFront beadNone. Built-in rail system for optics mountingNone. Built-in Picatinny rails for optics mounting
Barrel length22.5 inches34 inches30 inches
Overall Length43 inches48 inches49.5 inches
Weight7.25 pounds7.65 pounds10.25 pounds
MSRP$750$1,054$1,895
ManufacturerSam Yang Precision Industries Co.
Korea
Airforce Airguns
Ft. Worth, Texas (American made)
Precision Airgun Distributors
Arizona (American made)
WarrrantyOne year limitedLifetimeLimited Lifetime
SupplierAir Venturi via Pyramyd Air Salon, OhioAirforce AirgunsAirguns of Arizona
URLwww.pyramydair.comwww.airforceairguns.comwww.airgunsofarizona.com

Mistakes to Avoid

  • Using gases other than dry air, nitrogen, or CO2: This should go without saying, but always follow the manufacturer's directions. Also, if you attempt to use oxygen, well, it's been nice knowin' ya…
  • Leaving them in hot environments: Can you say, “Air under tremendous pressure in a sealed vessel?” Avoid leaving air guns or tanks in a car on a hot, sunny day.
  • Using lead projectiles that are too hard of an alloy: They need to be soft enough that the blast of air expands the base of the pellet for a good bore seal.
  • Using any type of petroleum-distillate-based products: These guns rely on rubber O-rings and seals that don't play well with petroleum products. Stick with silicone-based products for lubrication.
  • Overfilling the air reservoir: This leads to a condition known as “valve lock,” which can eventually lead to seal failure.
  • Using a damaged or deeply scratched air tank or reservoir: HPA guns are a different breed from the air guns you grew up with and demand respect. Serious injuries can occur, and we're not talking about shooting your eye out. Tanks and reservoirs should be hydrostatically tested every three to five years. Carbon-fiber tanks have a shelf life of 15 years.
  • Directly comparing them against firearms: The velocities are lower than what can be generated by gunpowder, and these guns kill game animal via penetrating wounds and blood loss rather than high- velocity shock and large wound channels. Work on your stalking skills because you won't be taking 500-yard shots with these air rifles.
  • Not respecting them as weapons: Treat air guns as you would any of your other high-quality firearms, lest you or someone around you suffer an unfortunate injury or worse.

About the Author

Gordon D. Smith, like a lot of American guys, grew up shooting Daisy and Crosman air guns. Some twisted wiring in his brain never let him grow out of the fascination of propelling projectiles by compressed air or CO2. While he did graduate to powder-actuated toys for big boys, he has been writing about air guns for the past five years for Airgun Hobbyist magazine. His interests have led him to investigate how air guns might fit into various aspects of the prepper lifestyle.
Sources
Air Tanks for Sale Inc.
www.airtanksforsale.com

Hunters Supply Cast Bullets
www.hunters-supply.com

Thompson Targets
www.thompsontarget.com

More From Issue 15

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Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 16

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Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original print version for the web.


Never Get a Poison Ivy Rash Again

If you've spent significant amounts of time outdoors, especially in heavily-wooded areas, you've likely seen or experienced the effects of Toxicodendron radicans—commonly known as poison ivy. This three-leafed vine may look innocuous to the untrained eye, but even slight contact with your skin can lead to painful irritation, an itchy rash, or even blisters. Experienced hikers are always on the lookout for “leaves of three”, and know to “let them be”.

Poison ivy rash 1

Poison oak foliage on the forest floor. Source: Wikipedia

As a result of the harmful effects of poison ivy, and similar species such as poison oak and poison sumac, many ointments and soaps have been developed to protect against its symptoms. However, Jim Brauker, a Ph.D biomedical scientist with 25 years of experience studying skin inflammation, feels that these specialized treatments are unnecessary.

These poisonous plants create an invisible oil called urushiol, which clings to skin and causes irritation. With the right treatment, the oil can be removed before it causes a rash. Jim explains more about how to avoid poison ivy rashes in the following video:

As you can see, the urushiol oil behaves similar to any other greasy substance on skin. Thorough lathering with dish soap or any other oil-removing soap helps, but the key is friction. If you've tried to remove grease and grime from your hands after a long day at work, you'll know it tends to get everywhere and can be near impossible to remove. Now imagine how much harder that grease would be to remove if it was invisible—this is the key danger of urushiol.

So, any time you think you may have come into contact with poison ivy, remember to scrub any affected areas thoroughly with soap and water. Also clean your tools, boots, and clothing thoroughly, since the oil can remain active for years after it leaves the plant. If you remember these tips and are sufficiently cautious, you may never have to deal with poison ivy rash again.


Infographic: Disappear Online

The Internet has proven to be both an invaluable resource and a highly invasive form of technology. It makes our lives easier by permitting instant web searches on any topic imaginable, and it has made physical encyclopedias an archaic concept. We're also able to stay in touch with our distant friends and relatives easily through a variety of social media channels. You wouldn't even be reading this article if it weren't for the Internet.

However, the interconnected and permanent nature of the web has created some valid concerns over privacy. Once something makes its way onto the Internet, it should be expected that it's there to stay. For better or for worse, removing or suppressing an image or piece of information from the web is extremely difficult. Data can be duplicated, backed up, reposted, and shared around the world in the blink of an eye.

Fortunately, if you need to erase your digital identity and disappear online, there are some steps you can take to remove your personal information. It may not be a foolproof solution, but the infographic below provides a number of good suggestions on this topic:

Disappear online 1
Disappear online 2
Disappear online 3

As CNet Senior Editor Eric Franklin puts it, “Even if you've never set foot on the Internet, your information is out there, and by ‘out there' I mean available to the public. If that concept makes you nervous or concerns you in any way, then it probably should.” Eric's article on Five Ways to Delete Yourself from the Internet is a good read, so check it out if you'd like to learn more about this topic.


Jump Start a Car with AA Batteries

If someone told you that they could jump start a car with AA batteries, you might think they're pulling your leg. After all a car battery produces higher voltage and a huge amount of cranking amps in order to turn the starter motor and fire up the engine. However, it turns out that there's some truth to this claim—it's actually possible to use some spare AAs to provide enough energy to get your vehicle running in an emergency.

Jump start car AA batteries 3

Wiring the AA batteries in series yields enough power to boost the car battery for a single crank.

A car battery is powerful, and can produce between 50 and 150 amps of cranking power in a short burst. To completely replace a car battery with AAs, you might need as many as 1,000 AA batteries, and that's not practical at all. Then again, if your goal is to boost an existing car battery that doesn't quite have the power to start a car, that can be done with only a few AAs, some wire, and a soldering iron (or some electrical tape).

Jump start car AA batteries 1

Twelve AA batteries are connected end-to-end, forming a single chain with wires on each end.

Youtube host ElectroBOOM demonstrates how it's done in this humorous video:

If you're still skeptical and think this is only camera trickery, you can read the entire technical writeup on Electroboom.com. Here's an excerpt from that article explaining how it works:

“To charge the car battery, I need to create a voltage above its level. I used 12 AA brand new batteries that gave me 19.4V at no load, or 1.62V per battery. I also put a one ohm resistor in series to measure the current as well as limit the current flowing through batteries.

Jump start car AA batteries 2

“I charged the car battery for 10 minutes, and I roughly had an average of around 1.5A going into the battery. This means that I could draw an average of 90A from the car battery for 10 seconds which is more than enough for most engines for a single crank.”

If you don't have AAs, it's also possible to start a car using a 12V drill battery or power tool battery, as seen in this video:


Angle-Head Flashlights

Have you ever held a flashlight to illuminate your workspace, only to fumble with it and wish you had an extra pair of hands? Most of us have encountered this frustrating situation at one time or another. You could try setting the light down somewhere, but that's impossible if you're on the move. Alternatively, you could get a headlamp, but it could interfere with certain headgear. Plus, they don't fit as conveniently in a pants pocket as a flashlight and can make you look like Spencer Spelunker.

What you could really use is a device that bridges the gap between flashlight and headlamp. Fortunately, such a tool already exists: the angle-head flashlight.

The key benefit of an angle-head flashlight is its ability to clip onto your existing gear, whether that's a belt, shirt pocket, backpack strap, or tactical vest. This enables you to keep moving and work freely with both hands. No more slobbering as you hold a flashlight in your mouth and curse under your breath — angle-head lights are truly hands-free. It's for this reason that they're used extensively by firefighters, law enforcement officers, and other search-and-rescue professionals.

For this issue's HighLights, we've collected five different angle-head flashlights to test and compare. Read on to see which ones bend to your wants and needs.

Angle-Head Flashlights

  • Fenix MC11

    Make & Model - Fenix MC11
    Max Lumen Output - 155
    Max Runtime - 100 hrs.
    Overall Length - 3.9 in.
    Weight with Batteries - 3.1 oz.
    Battery Type - AA (one, included)
    Controls - Push-button switch with on/off and momentary modes
    Output Modes - High, medium, low, burst
    MSRP - $40
    URL - www.fenixlight.com

    The Fenix MC11 is a compact and affordable angle-head flashlight. Its head is mounted at a 90-degree angle to the anodized-aluminum body, and can pivot an additional 45 degrees up or down.

  • First Light T-Max LE

    Make & Model - First Light T-Max LE
    Max Lumen Output - 700
    Max Runtime - 60 hrs.
    Overall Length - 3.4 in.
    Weight with Batteries - 5.9 oz.
    Battery Type - CR123 (two, included)
    Controls - Dual push-button switches for white and color LEDs, momentary button, lockout mode
    Output Modes - White, red, blue, green, red/green (each with high, medium, low modes), white strobe, safety beacon (red/white/blue strobe)
    MSRP - $280
    URL - http://www.firstlight-usa.com

    The T-Max LE tactical light is both intensely powerful and versatile. It features a max output of 700 lumens, three power levels, four LED colors, red-green mode for highlighting blood spatter, and even a red-white-blue safety beacon strobe.

  • Pelican 3715PL

    Make & Model - Pelican 3715PL
    Max Lumen Output - 233
    Max Runtime - 31 hrs.
    Overall Length - 5.4 in.
    Weight with Batteries - 14.4 oz.
    Battery Type - AA (four, included)
    Controls - Push-button switch
    Output Modes - High, low, downcast, flashing
    MSRP - $163
    URL - http://www.pelican.com

    Pelican's 3715 line of angle lights was recently updated, increasing max output by nearly 60 lumens.

  • Streamlight PolyTac 90

    Make & Model - Streamlight PolyTac 90
    Max Lumen Output - 170
    Max Runtime - 30 hrs.
    Overall Length - 4.4 in.
    Weight with Batteries - 4.1 oz.
    Battery Type - CR123 (two, included)
    Controls - Push-button switch with on-off and momentary modes
    Output Modes - High, low, strobe
    MSRP - $88
    URL - http://www.streamlight.com

    The Streamlight PolyTac 90 is contained in a tough, impact-tested, waterproof nylon polymer housing.

  • Tuff T180

    Make & Model - Tuff T180
    Max Lumen Output - 170 with CR123 battery, 120 with AA
    Max Runtime - Unlisted for low mode (approx. 40 hrs. with CR123)
    Overall Length - 3.7 in. with CR123, 4.5 in. with AA (head at 90 degrees)
    Weight with Batteries - 2.7 oz. with CR123, 3.2 oz. with AA
    Battery Type - CR123 (one, included) or AA (one, included)
    Controls - Push-button switch
    Output Modes - High, low, strobe
    MSRP - $70
    URL - http://www.tuffproducts.com

    Tuff's T180 name indicates its biggest advantage — the light's head pivots a full 180 degrees in 20-degree increments.

More From Issue 15

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Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 16

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 14

Check out our sister publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade

Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original print version for the web.

 


Peak Design Kickstarts New EDC Bags

While tactical bags covered in PALS webbing, velcro, and modular pouches certainly have their place, we also appreciate gear that can remain discreet. It's important to keep onlookers guessing at what's in your pack, rather than wearing gear that screams “steal me—expensive things inside”. This is even more important in survival scenarios, when hostile crowds may want to separate you from your valuables.

Peak Design edc bags backpack 1

That said, you shouldn't have to sacrifice interior versatility and organization for exterior appearance. There has to be a balance between the two elements, and it appears that Peak Design may have achieved this balance with their latest Everyday gear line. Launched in 2015 with the Everyday Messenger, this line is now expanding by launching three new styles via Kickstarter: a backpack, sling bag, and tote.

Peak Design edc bags backpack 3

Peak Design edc bags backpack 2

The first new model is the Everyday Backpack, which is available in either 20-liter or 30-liter capacity. It uses dual weatherproof side zips as well as a MagLatch magnetic flap on top, providing access to your gear from various angles. Each bag can also expand by up to 10 liters by latching the top closure in a higher position. Flexfold dividers provide organization and prevent gear from shifting.

Peak Design edc bags sling 4

Next, there's the sling bag, which offers a minimal size and two zippered compartments. External carry straps and compression straps allow larger items to be secured to the exterior of the bag. Many internal pockets, sleeves, and anchor points help organize your gear.

Peak Design edc bags tote 5

Finally, there's the tote bag, which also offers three access flaps—one on each side, and one on top. A versatile strap system permits the user to wear this bag as a backpack, cross-body sling bag, or carry it by the handle. Leather handles and accents add extra visual appeal.

If you're interested in learning more about these new bags from Peak Design, check out the Kickstarter campaign page or visit PeakDesign.com.


Why Activated Charcoal Needs to be in Your Survival Pack

Warning!
This article is a quick overview and not a detailed guide. Consult with a licensed medical professional before ingesting any activated charcoal, medicine, or supplements.

It's been a few days since you got separated from the rest of the group. To stretch out your supplies while you await rescue or find help, you've been living off the earth as much as possible. While your intentions may have been sound, your ability to spot edible plants wasn't. Something you ate isn't playing well with your internals. At best, you may be dealing with a major bout of gas. At worst, you might have inadvertently ingested some sort of poison.

If you're forced to fend for yourself during a natural disaster, have found yourself in a postapocalyptic landscape, or are hopelessly lost in the woods, there's a good chance that safe food and drinking water will be at a minimum. Nausea, diarrhea, vomiting, and abdominal pains can result from ingesting contaminated food and drink.

So what can you do when there's no doctor in sight or a working hospital around? Enter activated charcoal.

Activated carbon is available in pill form for easy storage and carry.

Activated carbon is available in pill form for easy storage and carry.

The What

Activated charcoal — sometimes known as activated carbon or activated coal — is a type of charcoal that's processed in a way to give its surface area large volumes of pores. It's these tiny pores that allow it to efficiently adsorb toxins and chemicals, removing them from your body. Note this is adsorption, not absorption. What's the difference? The latter involves a fluid being dissolved by another substance (think water being absorbed by a cracker), while the former involves molecules of a substance (say, a poison) adhering to the surface of another substance (in this case, activated charcoal).

This material is used in a span of fields — from engineering to agriculture. In fact, it's the stuff that's oftentimes used in air and water filters to keep the essentials of life clean enough for our consumption.

Note: It's probably a good idea to mention here that activated charcoal isn't the same as what you use to light up the grill. Don't confuse the two. Barbecue charcoal is packed with toxins and should never be ingested.

The Why

The application of a couple of pills of activated charcoal could do the trick to ease the symptoms of poisoning. If ingested while the offending chemical is still in your stomach, the carbon traps the poison before it's absorbed into your system. And because the charcoal itself can't be absorbed into your system, it (and the trapped chemical) can be expelled from your body when nature calls before real damage is done.

Activated charcoal is often used by doctors in drug overdose cases. Some advocates recommend it for certain allergic food reactions and “stomach bugs.” Other benefits claimed by activated-charcoal users include the reduction of intestinal gas and reduced bile flow during pregnancy, though skeptics say that more studies are required to determine just how effective it is for those cases.

Activated charcoal shouldn't be used with alcohol, because the two can interact and decrease the charcoal's effectiveness. Also, several studies have shown that this type of carbon isn't effective at treating alcohol poisoning — but it reportedly helps remove alcohol mixers, such as artificial sweeteners, that contribute to the poisoning.

The same way activated charcoal adsorbs poisons from the stomach and intestines, it'll also adsorb medications and vitamins taken orally. Because of this, it's recommended to take the charcoal an hour after medications.

activated-charcoal-pill-bottle

The How

Typically, activated charcoal should be administered within two hours of a poison's ingestion because it's most effective before the poison gets absorbed through your gastrointestinal tract. It comes in tablet, caplet, or powder form, and can be taken orally in pill form or mixed with water to form a slurry. For poisonings and drug overdoses, it's recommended that adults initially take between 50 and 100 grams followed by smaller 12.5-gram doses every two to four hours. Of course these are very general guidelines for adults, and we recommend you seek out professional medical advice for your own or your children's needs.

The Side Effects

Side effects of activated charcoal may include constipation and the darkening or complete blackout of stool, but it's generally considered safe for short-term use in most adults. In extreme cases, worse side effects can include the slowing or blocking of the intestinal tract, regurgitation into the lungs, and dehydration.

Again, because there's always potential for people to react to things differently, we recommend consulting a physician prior to planning to use activated charcoal.

The Other Uses

Aside from the main use of slowing and removing poisons from the body, activated charcoal can be used in a variety of ways that can enhance your survival or daily living. As mentioned earlier, it's often the main component in filtration systems for both air and water. The use of activated charcoal with impromptu water filtration methods can greatly increase the effectiveness — and taste — of your results.

Also, advocates claim it's an effective teeth whitener. Having a clean mouth is essential to good hygiene and by extension good health, improving your survivability.

Activated charcoal can reportedly be mixed with a little water and applied as a salve to skin irritations or even wounds. It's been said to be effective against spider bites and other insect bites and stings as well. This salve can also act as camouflage when applied to the skin.

When you're in full survival mode, it's easy to pay less attention to the finer things in life, such as the interesting smells that you're emitting. From the cap on your head to the boots on your feet, there are plenty of ways you give away your position to critters and people alike through the power of your powerful smell. Odor adsorption is a popular use for activated charcoal. Make pouches of it to place in your footwear (if you have stanky-ass feet) or in your clothing (if laundry isn't an option in your bug-out scenario). But beware: The black stuff will stain anything it comes in contact with, so don't sprinkle it like baby powder — unless you're into coal miner chic. The activated charcoal helps in reducing musky odors and possibly even harmful mold.

Certain studies show that activated charcoal has the potential to reduce bad cholesterol, while some argue the findings need to be studied further.

activated-charcoal-packets

Final Thoughts

Now back to your situation in the bushes. After feeling the after effects of living off the land, you bust out the vial of activated charcoal pills, take a couple of them, and begin to feel the pain ease away. If your stay in the woods becomes longer than expected, you not only have a way to fend off poisons and certain ailments, but you'll smell fresh while donning a bright, winning smile, too.

Charcoal Shopping

Activated charcoal has been proven scientifically to treat poisonings, so it's smart to have some at home or packed in your survival backpack. But where can you buy the black stuff? While most pharmacies carry them and an online search will turn up plenty of sources, you can also find them reliably through the following companies.

Amazon
www.amazon.com

Chinook Medical Gear
www.chinookmed.com

Walmart
www.walmart.com

More From Issue 15

Don’t miss essential survival insights—sign up for Recoil Offgrid's free newsletter today.

Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 16

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 14

Check out our sister publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade

Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original print version for the web.