Reader Survey

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As writers and editors, our purpose in life is to produce content that appeals to our core audience—since you’re reading this right now, that means you. It’s a pretty safe bet that you only read our articles because we talk about the issues you care about. If, all of a sudden, we decided to turn into a publication about stamp collecting, you’d drop us like a bad habit—and we wouldn’t blame you one bit. It’s absolutely essential for us to understand exactly what you want to read about, and what you don’t.

So, how do we achieve this goal, and get to know you better? Well, there’s the obvious stuff, like reading the emails you send us and checking the comments you post on our Facebook and Instagram pages. We also attend as many shows and events as our schedules permit, so we can chat with our readers face-to-face. This still barely scratches the surface, so we’re trying something new: a reader survey.

The very first reader survey will start off by asking for some basic demographic info, such as your gender, age range, and geographic location. Then, we’ll ask about your favorite parts of the magazine, your least favorite parts of the magazine, and new types of stories you’d like to see from us in the future. It’s all totally voluntary and anonymous. You can use the survey to tell us we’re doing a bang-up job, or that we’re big fat failures—either way, we genuinely care what you have to say, and we promise to listen to your suggestions.

You can take our survey below. Thank you in advance for supporting us, and for taking the time to complete this survey!

Using Filipino Self-Defense Tactics for When SHTF

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Confronting a bad guy armed with muscles and a bad attitude can be scary enough, but what if he also has a weapon? A crowbar, a knife, or a gun? Having to fight off an armed thug regardless of the circumstances is a situation that should be avoided at all costs. However, as the expression goes, hope for the best and prepare for the worst. The real world of self-defense can be chaotic and confusing, and there are many unknowns that you can't always anticipate, such as the presence of weapons. To not only survive, but also win a fight of this nature isn't always easy, but it's very much possible — especially with the principle of Zero Pressure. As a key concept from a style of Filipino martial arts called Pekiti-Tirsia Kali (PTK), Zero Pressure is the intercepting and trapping of an attack is at its weakest point.

Warning!
Warning! The concepts shown here are for illustrative purposes only. Seek a reputable instructor before attempting any techniques discussed or shown in this story.

So what exactly is Zero Pressure in the context of combatives? The range of motion for every attack has a beginning point and an end point. The beginning point is where the arm is positioned before it, say, takes a swing — it's that moment in time when the attack's velocity is zero. That might be where the arm retracts so that it can gain more power in the swing, or a stationary non-retracted position that is harder to see coming because it's not as telegraphed. Then there is the point where the attack reaches the end of its range of motion, and the velocity of the attack again reaches zero velocity. These two positions are components of the principle of Zero Pressure.

There is also a point between beginning and end where the attack will reach its maximum velocity or 100 percent. Obviously, that's the point where your ticket could get punched and should be avoided whenever possible.

There is another part of the attack that can also be measured from zero to 100 percent, and that would be from the shoulder to the tip of the weapon (which could be the muzzle of a gun or it might just be a fist). If you look at the arm and weapon as one measured unit, the further you get from the shoulder, the faster the unit is moving. Maximum velocity or 100 percent will be at the tip of the weapon, and velocity decreases as you get closer to the shoulder. For the intents and purposes of this principle, the shoulder is the pivot point or position zero.

Up Close or Far Away

When dealing with weapon-based attacks, there are ultimately two positions that will give me the highest likelihood of saving my bacon. I need to get completely outside of the range of the weapon altogether, or I need to get completely inside the most effective range of the weapon or 100 percent velocity, as close to the assailant's shoulder as possible, position zero. This is a philosophy that many martial arts will describe in different ways, but the analogy I like most is that of a hurricane. The safest places to be in a hurricane are either completely outside the hurricane's wind field, or right in the hurricane's eye.

This concept might even be compared to a pendulum swing. The points of the pendulum where there will be the least kinetic energy are the beginning and end points of a weight's trajectory, and the portion of the swinging cord closest to the pivot point.

If only the reality of self-defense were that simple.

The dynamics of human physical confrontation offer too many variables, and to attain true Zero Pressure one must also employ forward momentum and constant pressure to the weapon-bearing arm. Failure to do so will result in losing control of the arm and allowing the assailant to bring his weapon back into the fight quicker.

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Beginning Point of Zero Pressure: Jared Wihongi immediately closes the gap before Conrad Bui (left) can launch his attack, traps his arms, and takes him down. Wihongi then disarms by twisting the butt-end of the pool cue and dropping his knee on his attacker's face and neck.

Beginning Point of Zero Pressure: Jared Wihongi immediately closes the gap before Conrad Bui (left) can launch his...

For example, if I were successful in jamming or trapping a knife attack, a bad guy could retract his arm and stab again and again until he gets me. However, if I move forward to Zero Pressure, I will reach a point where they cannot retract their arm any further without moving backward, which is why my forward momentum is important so they can't free themselves. Or in the case of a firearm, if I were successful in deflecting and grabbing a thug's arm or the weapon itself, I can keep the muzzle pointed away from me so long as I move forward, but if I stop and he moves backward, his arm will straighten and the muzzle will point at me.

I like to compare it to the military doctrine that is commonly taught with regards to countering a close-range ambush. Moving backward and recoiling away from the ambush will be a liability and put you in a position where you're off balance, on your heels, and unable to achieve or maintain Zero Pressure. You must push forward. Don't be under the illusion that you will always be strong enough to push your opponent backward, the idea is that even if he's pushing you backward, you're able to temporarily immobilize his arm or lock it into a trapped position to prevent further damage while you work toward your next counter tactic.

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End Point of Zero Pressure: After talking down his aggressor doesn't work, Jared Wihongi slips out of range of the swing before crashing in and trapping Conrad Bui's arms. He then takes Bui down, strips the pool cue, and can now counterattack, scan for other bad guys, or make an escape.

End Point of Zero Pressure: After talking down his aggressor doesn't work, Jared Wihongi slips out of range of...

Angles of (Counter) Attack

So how can you utilize this principle in application? To achieve Zero Pressure, you need to put yourself in the right position. Moving to a point of domination in a combative encounter can mean the difference between going home or going to the morgue. The best position to deliver a counterattack is from the rear, but in most situations this will also be the most difficult position to achieve.

When countering a weapon-based attack, the key is to move to the Outside Line. Outside Line refers to the side of the assailant's lead shoulder that's toward his back and away from his other arm. For example, if the bad guy leads with his right shoulder, you should move to your left so you're on the outside of his right arm and closer to his right shoulder blade, away from his left arm. With a weapon-based attack, you'll want to move to the Outside Line of the weapon-bearing arm.

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Jared Wighongi (left) steps to the Outside Line while parrying. In a dominant position, he slams the bad guy against the wall, pins the gun, and transitions to his Browning Vanquish Pocket Deploy knife.

Jared Wighongi (left) steps to the Outside Line while parrying. In a dominant position, he slams the bad guy against...

Conversely, the Inside Line would be the side closest to your opponent's non-weapon bearing arm. (It's a less desirable position to be in because the bad guy can attack with both arms and legs.)

With the principles of position in mind, Zero Pressure will typically be achieved in one of these three positions, what I like to call Zero Pressure One, Two, or Three.

Zero Pressure One: This position takes place on the Inside Line, where I push the attacker's arm outward and away from his body. This position is normally achieved by jamming the attack as close as possible to its starting point before it gains momentum. This can be a good tactic, but staying in this position too long is less than favorable because of the bad guy's ability to curl his arm inward. This can make things difficult when controlling an assailant's weapon arm. Plus, the close proximity to the assailant's other arm will also give him the additional ability to attack and defend.

Zero Pressure Two: This is more of a central position, where the assailant's elbow is bent and you're pushing the arm into their body.

Zero Pressure Three: This is the preferred position, where you're on the Outside Line and pushing his arm across his body. Plus, you're furthest away from his other arm.

Give Yourself Options

With this concept in mind, it's important to figure out the best way to get to the Outside Line. A common tactic that is taught in Pekiti-Tirsia Kali is forward angular movement toward the Outside Line position, often illustrated with a triangle or “V” motion. This angular movement moves you off line of the attack, while still keeping you close enough to gain control of the weapon-bearing arm. Good balance and foot mobility becomes important so that you can maintain a solid base and dictate distance and proximity.

The key is to move to the Outside Line — but keep in mind that you can't always dictate position. Sometimes objects in the environment or your position when the attack starts may dictate which direction you can realistically move. If the fight ends up on the ground or against a wall, you should look to pin the weapon-bearing limb to the ground, wall, or — in the case of Zero Pressure Two — to the assailant's body. The ideal way to control an arm is with one hand on the tricep, just above the elbow, controlling the upper arm. The other hand should be on the wrist close to the hand, controlling the lower arm. Your hands should be in an over/under grip position to maximize control.

The principle of Zero Pressure is universal in application, meaning it can be applied regardless of the weapon involved, or even to empty-hand assaults for that matter. The key is to immobilize the attacker's weapon-bearing limb just long enough for you to survive, orientate yourself, decide upon a course of action, and do it!

But what are some viable courses of action you might ask? The first thing is to decide whether you must remain engaged with the bad guy and counterattack, or disengage. You can then continue to one of the following options:

Completely disengage from the situation — if it's feasible (it might not be a good idea to disengage and leave your wife and kids behind!)

  • Transition to a weapon that is tactically or legally more appropriate to the threat you're facing. You can shift to something you're carrying or something in the environment that can be used as an improvised weapon.
  • Utilize a takedown or throw technique, and then take that opportunity to disengage or subdue the assailant.
  • Go ballistic on the assailant, delivering strikes with the intent of creating a distraction that can set you up for the next tactic, or cause sufficient blunt trauma to neutralize the threat.
  • Oftentimes it will require a combination of two or more of the above tactics to handle the situation appropriately.

The concept of Zero Pressure is all about survival. Understanding the concepts of movement, momentum, and position can be integrated into an existing combatives skill set. Whether you're a prepper with only rudimentary self-defense knowledge or someone who trains regularly in a fighting system, it's impossible to prepare for every variable that might be faced in the real world. But fundamental principles like Zero Pressure can be applied to give us a tactical edge — or at the very least help us to not make fatal mistakes when confronted with the situation we can only hope we never have to face.

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If you've used Zero Pressure against an armed aggressor, but you can't transition to a weapon of your own, you'll need to disarm the bad guy. Here Jared Wihongi takes care not to cover the muzzle as he grabs the gun and rips it out of Conrad Bui's grip, going against the thumb, while delivering an elbow to the ribs as an added distraction.

If you've used Zero Pressure against an armed aggressor, but you can't transition to a weapon of your own,...

Top 5 Rookie Mistakes To Avoid When Defending Against an Armed Attacker

Running Backward: You'll never outrun someone who's running forward if you're running backward — plus it causes all kinds of balance problems.

Think That Being Armed Is Being Prepared: Being armed yourself is only half the battle. Training is paramount.

Access a Weapon Too Soon: Think self-preservation first, then look for the opportunity to grab a weapon, whether it's something you're carrying or an improvised weapon.

Staying Unaware: Failing to recognize improvised weapons in your environment could be a fatal mistake.

Block Your Way to Victory: Defensive wounds on the arms are common in weapon-based attacks. Use Zero Pressure and counterattack!

Historical Background of Pekiti-Tirsia Kali

Pekiti-Tirsia Kali is a combat art native to the Negros Occidental area of the Philippines. It was forged through centuries of warfare, both intertribal and international. Like many Asian fighting systems, the art was safeguarded by a particular family and taught to warriors of their tribe. It was first taught to non-Filipinos by Grand Tuhon (master) Leo Tortal Gaje Jr. in 1970s New York, shortly after he moved there from the Philippines. Kali differs from most martial arts in that training begins with weapons (primarily bladed) and then evolves to empty-hand application. The focus on no-nonsense weapon applications has made Filipino fighting arts a hot commodity with military special-operations units around the world, including here in the United States.

About the Author

Jared Wihongi is founder and president of Survival Edge Tactical Systems Inc., a tactical training and consulting company. He is known to many as the face of Browning's Black Label tactical equipment line. He is one of a handful of master-level (tuhon) instructors in the Filipino combat art of Pekiti-Tirsia Kali and has 15 years of experience in law enforcement. Most of that was spent as a SWAT officer and instructor of firearms and defensive tactics. Plus, he's spent more than a decade teaching combatives and survival skills to police, military, and covert-operations units in Asia, Europe, North America, and South America.
www.facebook.com/jared.wihongi
www.jaredwihongi.com

Sources

Pekiti Tirsia Tactical Association
www.teampekiti.com/ptta

The Gun Vault Utah
thegunvaultut.com

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Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original print version for the web.

Daily Stretching Exercises

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Whether you're doing hard physical labor outdoors all day, or hunching over a computer screen at your desk job, muscle aches are a fact of life. These minor pains can be a real annoyance during the work week, but if you're in a survival situation, pulled muscles and reduced mobility may have devastating effects. Shin splints can slow your movement, a tense neck can limit your visibility, and a tweaked back can cripple you completely.

Even simple head movements can be used effectively to reduce muscle pain, as shown in the Strength Camp video below.

Even simple head movements can be used effectively to reduce muscle pain, as shown in the Strength Camp video below.

In order to avoid these muscular issues, it's important to exercise regularly—we've showed you how in past articles. However, it's equally important to maintain those muscles between workouts through stretching. Proper stretching can keep you flexible and improve blood flow to your extremities, leaving you ready to move at a moment's notice if SHTF. It'll also help alleviate nagging aches that may plague you on a daily basis.

Here's a helpful infographic from MichaelGeorge.com that provides 25 different exercises to keep your muscles working smoothly.

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In addition to these exercises, be sure to place extra emphasis on stretching your neck and upper back. Try to go through even the most mundane activity without turning or tilting your head, and you'll understand why a locked up neck muscle can be catastrophic. The video below from Strength Camp on YouTube shows four critical stretches for these key muscles:

Obviously, not all of these exercises are necessary to memorize, but adding a few to your daily routine can help you be better prepared for whatever comes your way.

Use a Belt as an Improvised Weapon

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In a self-defense scenario, especially one involving armed attackers, escape should always be the first option you consider. If you can run from danger and survive, you should do so. However, there are often situations when escape is simply not an option. If your back's against the wall, and you have to fight for your life, using an improvised weapon can greatly sway the odds in your favor.

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Self-defense instructor Nick Drossos shows how to use an ordinary belt as an improvised weapon.

We previously discussed the Millwall brick, a blunt-force weapon made of folded newspaper, as well as carabiner knuckles. While both these tools would be good defense options in a fistfight, they require you to be up close and personal with your attacker(s). If you're facing armed opponents, such as thugs carrying knives or batons, keeping your distance is key to avoiding slices and broken bones. Even a foot or two between you and the attacker can save your life.

Even a lightweight belt buckle like the one on this dress belt can do substantial damage on impact.

Even a lightweight belt buckle like the one on this dress belt can do substantial damage on impact.

Keeping in mind this element of range, consider improvising a weapon from an item you're already carrying: a belt. You can wear a belt almost anywhere, even in locations that might explicitly forbid other weapons, and when swung quickly, it can provide an excellent means of protection. Self-defense instructor Nick Drossos of CodeRedDefense.com shows how to use a belt as an improvised weapon in the video below:

Backyard Survival Training

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Many of us would love to be able to take a few weeks off and travel to a remote, privately owned forest where we can practice wilderness survival skills without fear of violating a city ordinance or, perhaps worse, incurring the wrath of our homeowners association. The reality, though, is that unless we're somehow picked for the next round of contestants on some goofy reality show, we're not going to be doing a lot of primitive camping any time soon. We simply don't have the time for an extended trip. And if we did, most of us can't afford it (not all of us have the scratch to fly to Jasper National Park in Canada or the rain forests of Costa Rica).

Fortunately, these skill sets don't require a background of towering pines and the gurgle of a babbling brook to be successfully learned. Many of them can be practiced right in your own backyard. Doing so has a milder impact on your wallet — plus, if things go awry, help is likely just a scream away.

Fire-Making

The ability to reliably make fire under both ideal and adverse conditions is one of the most important survival skills to master. Plus, you earn massive field cred when you're able to get a fire going where others have failed.

Backyard Bonfire: Even if there are city restrictions on what you're allowed to burn and when, I doubt there are any rules at all dictating how the fire is started. Many homeowners have invested in some sort of patio fire pit in recent years, whether it is a permanent brick structure or just a metal bowl that gets moved off to the side when the kids are playing basketball. Either way, they work great for practicing your pyrotechnic talents.

Spark Selection: Try using a variety of different fire-starting tools and techniques, from the reliable butane lighters and strike-anywhere matches to ferrocerium rods and perhaps even the bow drill. Don't overlook the magnifying glass or the fire piston, either. Practicing these techniques in the backyard is a great way to learn which are easiest for you to use and under what conditions each seems to work the best.

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Tinder Finder: If you lack natural materials to use as tinder, mimicking what you'd find out in the field, search for “Michigan Wildfire” on Facebook. Their fire kit consists of about a dozen different types of natural tinder, a full pound of it total, along with a custom-handled ferrocerium rod. The materials, such as birch bark and chaga fungus, are all separated and labeled, making it a great tool for learning how to use varied materials in fire-making.

Fuel Placement: Try out different fire lays, too. Most of us are familiar with the teepee fire lay, where you build a cone of sorts out of kindling over the tinder bundle. How about the Dakota fire hole? You won't be able to use your patio fire pit for it, but it can be very useful out in the field. Dig a hole about 10 inches deep and maybe a foot in diameter. Dig another hole the same depth but half the diameter, about 18 inches from the first one. Then, dig a tunnel to connect the two holes.

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Sounds like a lot of work, I know, but it's worth it in the end. Build your fire in the larger hole. Once it starts burning well, it will draw air through the second hole, causing the fire to burn hotter and consume the fuel more efficiently. This results in far less smoke being generated, making the Dakota fire hole a great option for keeping things on the down low. Plus, it is quite easy to lay a few green branches across the fire hole, on which you can place your pot or pan for cooking.

Off-Grid Cooking

Make no mistake, cooking over an open flame outdoors is as much art as it is science. While campfire cooking traditionally means impaling something on a stick and holding it over the fire until it burns, with the right tools and some practice you can cook just about anything. The following are some considerations.

Coal Cooking: First things first, though. You don't cook over the actual flames, you cook over the coals. Those provide a much more consistent temperature. Flames will reach up and scorch the food, leaving the outside burnt to a crisp and the inside cold and raw. What experienced camp cooks will do is get a good fire going, then once it dies down, scrape the coals to the side for cooking.

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Side Burner: Another thing to keep in mind is that most grills, unless they have a side burner, are horrible when it comes to boiling water. They are very inefficient because the heat kind of goes everywhere rather than focusing on the bottom of the pot. You folks who sprung for the side burner feature, though, are good to go.

In theory at least, anyone can heat up a can of soup over a campfire. But, if your outdoor cooking experience tops out at turning hot dogs into briquettes, you have some practice ahead of you.

Cookware: For potentially long-term situations, consider investing in at least a couple of cast-iron pots, such as a deep skillet and a small Dutch oven. While you can sometimes get by with using your normal kitchen pots and pans, they typically aren't made to withstand the higher heat generated by a campfire. They may warp or bend, and plastic handles will almost certainly melt. Good cast iron isn't cheap but, if cared for properly, it will last several lifetimes.

Wild Edibles

I will readily admit that I am a die-hard carnivore. A meal just isn't a meal unless something had to bleed before it hit my plate. That said, if I'm hungry and the only food available has leaves on it, I'll be filling my plate with greens and possibly coming back for seconds.

Being able to not only recognize wild edibles in your area, but knowing how to properly use them can be a crucial life-saving skill. Rather than trying to properly identify a whole ton of plants most of the time, concentrate on being able to identify a short list of plants all of the time. The goal here is to learn what you can put into your belly to stop the missed meal cramps, not give a botany lecture.

You'd be surprised at what you'll find in your backyard once you know what to look for.

You'd be surprised at what you'll find in your backyard once you know what to look for.

Edible Education: Start by visiting your local library for a few books on wild edibles in your area. Two references I highly recommend are the Peterson Guide to Edible Wild Plants by Lee Allen Peterson and The Forager's Harvest by Samuel Thayer. See also “Urban Foraging” in Issue 8. An important thing to remember is you'll need to be able to identify the plants at various stages of their development. Many guides only show what the plant looks like when it is ready for harvest. By knowing what the plant looks like as it grows, you can spot it earlier and note the location for later.

Plant Compatibility: Another important aspect of wild edible gathering and use is that just because the plant is edible doesn't mean it will necessarily agree with you. We all have certain foods that just don't get along with our digestive systems. I'm not talking about being lactose intolerant or having issues with gluten. I'm referring to the fact that many of us are no longer able to wolf down Taco Bell at 3 a.m. without some serious repercussions. The same basic principle applies with wild edibles. Each person's body is different, and the body changes over time. Learn what you can eat safely now, when medical help, as well as working indoor plumbing, aren't issues.

Learning how to use a knife effectively is a survival requisite.

Learning how to use a knife effectively is a survival requisite.

Continuing Education: Another possible learning resource is your local county extension office. They are the folks who manage the Master Gardener programs. Reach out to them and find out if they have someone who is well versed in wild edible identification who could work with you for an afternoon or two. You might be surprised — there could be existing classes you could join.

Tracking

Animal Analysis: Identifying animal tracks is a great way to learn what animals are living in your area and thus would be available as a potential food source, should the need arise. Back to the library you go, this time for a couple of books on animal tracks. The Peterson Field Guide to Animal Tracks is a good place to start, but don't overlook the children's section of the library, too. Many of the advanced guides have so much information it can be overwhelming. You probably aren't interested in the mating habits of the Eastern Humped Whatsit; you just want to know what made the tracks that lead to and away from your upended garbage cans.

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Get Outside: One great thing about winter is that snow allows for easier tracking. Rather than just staying bundled up by the fireplace, only venturing outside when your paycheck is threatened, take some time to get out there and practice tracking. Learning to identify prints is just the first step — you need to practice following the trail as far as you can. This is something you can read about, sure, but you'll never be any good at it unless you spend some time outside.

Physical Fitness

As he recalled later, this is right where he lost most of his readers. I know, exercise isn't all that high on the fun list for most people. But, the fact is, poor physical conditioning will be a hindrance in a true survival situation. I'm not saying you need to be a fiend about lifting weights and running laps until you are in such good shape that you cause professional wrestlers to stop in their tracks. But, if you can't walk from the kitchen to the upstairs bathroom without getting winded and there's no underlying health issue at work, you need to get your heart rate up a bit every now and again.

Get a Checkup: Before embarking on any sort of exercise routine, you should probably get the all-clear from your physician. The last thing you want to do is end up hurt or worse when you've finally decided that while a sphere is indeed a shape, it isn't the shape you want to be in any longer.

Move Your Butt: If it's been years since you put on gym shorts, start small by walking the perimeter of your yard. Or, do a few jumping jacks on your back patio — anything that will get you up off your butt and working up a little sweat. (Check out the Health column in this and every issue of OG for more fitness ideas.) You don't need to invest in a fancy workout machine or even a set of free weights. Join your kids in a game of tag. Play catch with your family.

Dust off the weights and kettlebells: You can't survive a calamity if you can't climb the stairs without getting winded.

Dust off the weights and kettlebells: You can't survive a calamity if you can't climb the stairs without...

Grab a length of clothesline and start jumping rope. If your neighbors look at you funny, remind them that if the zombies do come, you don't need to outrun the brain-eaters, you just need to outrun the neighbors.

No matter what your living situation might be, you should be able to find some space for practicing some survival skills every now and again. It might require some creativity on your part, but being able to think outside the box is a survival skill in and of itself. Don't get wrapped up in finding reasons you can't do these things. A true survivor never gives up.

A Simple Recipe

An easy dish to make while you're camping — whether off the grid or in your backyard — is something this author likes to call “campfire potatoes.” Here's the recipe:

  • Tear off a sheet of aluminum foil about 18 inches long. Spray the inside with nonstick spray.
  • Wash a few red potatoes, then leave the skins on, and dice them into roughly 1-inch cubes or so. Lay those in the center of the foil.
  • Add a couple of pats of butter and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and garlic powder to taste.
  • Bring up the long sides of the foil roll them together down to the potatoes. Roll up the ends to make a nice, tight little package of goodies.
  • Toss this on hot coals for about 10 minutes, then flip for another 10.
  • Remove from the coals and carefully unwrap the foil. If the potatoes aren't tender, wrap it back up and put it back on the coals for a bit longer.

Add some hamburger, peppers, and other goodies before tossing it on the coals, and you have a meal fit for a grid-down king.

Grid-Down Grub

If it's truly a long-term grid-down situation, you're going to want to try to salvage the refrigerated and frozen foods as best you can. It might turn out that the best thing to do is to cook as much of it as possible and have a little feast. That's preferable over letting it all just go to waste, right?

Meat can be cooked on the grill, of course. Invite the neighbors over and have a cookout. Hopefully they'll have buns that match what you're serving. Hot dogs can be sliced for hamburger buns, but burgers on hot dog buns is troublesome.

Frozen Fries: Many of us have one or more bags of frozen French fries in our freezers. Here is one way to make use of those fries before they defrost: Take a sheet of foil, lay it on a counter, and spray one side with nonstick cooking oil. Toss a few handfuls of fries on the foil, then wrap them up. Cook this over hot coals for about 20 minutes or so, moving it around every now and again to shake up the fries so they don't get burnt. Once the fries are about done, open the foil and pour a can of your favorite chili over the fries, then sprinkle with cheese. We always have a bag of cheddar or Colby mix on hand for quesadillas and such. Wrap the foil closed again and put back over the coals for five to seven minutes. When the cheese is melted and the chili is warmed through, unwrap the foil and grab a fork.

Frozen Veggies: Of course, you can always make vegetable soup with all of your frozen beans, peas, and such. Add some pasta noodles to boiling water, toss in chicken bouillon and veggies, then simmer until the pasta is tender. If you cook up a chicken breast and dice it for the soup, so much the better.

Premade Dough: Refrigerated dough, such as the kind that scares your mother-in-law when you pop it open, can be cooked over the fire, too. Take the dough and roll it into a snake, then wrap said snake around the end of a stick that is roughly an inch thick. Hold it over the coals and turn it slowly to avoid burning.

Dairy: Milk should be consumed before it goes bad. Eggs will last a fair length of time without refrigeration so put those toward the bottom of the “Need to cook before it might kill you” list.

Take a peek in your freezer and refrigerator today. What foods do you routinely have on hand that you'd want to cook up before they go bad? How would you prepare them?

Common Backyard Edibles

backyard-survival-training-backyard-edibles

Dandelions are universal. There just aren't too many places where dandelions don't grow, at least not in the United States. The entire plant is edible, despite the general “milky sap means bad” rule of thumb.

Garlic mustard is the bane of oh so many homeowners. It is extremely invasive and will take over a flower bed in no time at all. A great way to get rid of it is to eat it. All parts of the plant are edible. The leaves have something of a bitter taste so some folks like to cook them or at least mix them with other vegetables rather than just eating them raw and alone.

Clover can be eaten raw, though the taste is improved a bit by boiling. Up to you whether you want to check for any having four leaves before munching them.

Many plants tend to get bitter as they grow and plantain is no exception. The leaves are best when fairly young.

Wood sorrel grows almost everywhere. The roots make a good alternative to potatoes after boiling. The leaves are typically eaten raw.

As you research wild edibles in your area, don't be surprised if you find out a fair number of them are usually thought to just be invasive weeds. That works in our favor, though. The gardening rule of thumb has always been if it pulls up hard, it is a plant. If it pulls easy, you're holding a weed.

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Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 12

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Ultralight and Efficient Penny Stove

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“One man's trash is another man's treasure.” This common saying is true for the general populace, but it's absolutely essential for survivalists. It serves as a reminder that garbage and often-discarded items can be re-purposed into valuable resources. We've seen this in the past through life-hacks like constructing a hobo stove from a tin can, and making cordage from plastic water bottles.

The materials necessary for a tin can stove. Any of the three fuels pictured will work.

This “trash into treasure” philosophy also holds true for the penny stove—a device that's built from nothing more than a few soda cans, a copper penny, and some alcohol for fuel. The penny is positioned atop the stove, and it acts as a fuel pressure regulator, preventing the alcohol fuel from escaping too quickly and burning out. It's important to use a 1982 or earlier penny for this stove, as later coins have much higher zinc content and may melt more easily.

Penny stove 2

Here's a list of the materials you'll need for a penny stove:

  • Two empty, clean soda cans or beer cans
  • Pre-1983 penny or other copper coin
  • Push-pin, small nail, or drill with 1/16″ bit
  • Ruler, book, or block of wood (to use as a measurement device)
  • Scissors or a sharp knife
  • Needle-nose pliers or plier-equipped multi-tool
  • Heet automotive fuel system cleaner, denatured alcohol, or isopropyl alcohol for fuel

See the video below for instructions on how it all goes together, from YouTube user jiujitsu2000. For those who prefer text instructions, here's an excellent step-by-step guide by Mark Jurey that uses a slightly different design.

Charged Film: The Survival Story of Eduardo Garcia

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Survival is about much more than dealing with a disastrous event in the heat of the moment. While it's essential to stay alive in the minutes and hours immediately following a disaster, true survival is defined by how you deal with the ongoing effects of an adverse event. This may mean changing your entire lifestyle to adapt to your new circumstances.

Charged Eduardo Garcia documentary film 1

The story of Eduardo Garcia is an excellent example of what it means to be an ongoing survivor. Eduardo, a successful chef with a promising career ahead, was hiking in the Montana backwoods and spotted a bear carcass. He walked over to investigate, drawing his knife as he approached the bear's remains. However, he had no idea that the bear's body was lying on top of a live power source.

A massive electrical surge of 2400 volts coursed through Eduardo's knife on contact, knocking him out and leaving him badly burned. However, Eduardo was not one to give up. He stood up and walked three miles to a nearby road, where he was rescued and transported to the hospital.

Eduardo lived through the event, dealt with a difficult recovery process, and learned to adapt to the loss of his left arm. Now, he continues to live life to the fullest, spending time in the outdoors despite his disability.

Charged Eduardo Garcia documentary film 2

We heard about this story through YETI, as the company has announced that it will be supporting an upcoming documentary about Eduardo. This feature-length film is called “Charged”, and it will be released in 2017. For more information about the Charged film, visit ChargedFilm.com or check out the documentary's Facebook page. We're big fans of survival documentaries, so we'll definitely be watching this one when it comes out.

A Buyer’s Guide to Bug-Out Hammocks

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Sleeping outside is an incredible nocturnal communion with nature. Wind, animal, and insect unite in a subtle symphony that's easily mistaken for cacophony by the sore-backed and restless.

It doesn't matter how many times we've set up a campsite, there are always those sites that defy comfort and waste our time. Aside from the injured sleep resulting from a rogue root beneath a ground pad or the slope we didn't sense while setting up our tent, there's the time it takes to set up the tent. Time on the trail is precious, and if we find a way to get five more minutes of meal prep, or better, a little more Z's time, then we're all over it.

Hammocks check both boxes, in this case. We can set up a simple hammock in under three minutes without much practice. Some of the more feature-rich designs can take longer, but compared to pitching most one-man tents, hanging a hammock is almost always faster. But, more importantly, a hammock delivers exactly the same sleeping surface every time, regardless of the ground beneath it.

We know. You don't believe us. Hammocks are for sailors and island-time naps, not overland travel, you say? Read on.

Architecture

Hammock designs range from a simple sheet of suspended fabric to modular sleep systems.

There are dozens of hammock styles out there. We're going to break hammock designs into three families for this article: unstructured hammocks, structural ridgeline hammocks, and spreader bar hammocks.

Unstructured hammocks are fixed at each end and hang with the tension provided by the anchors and the body lying within. This is the simplest hammock design and is hard to fall out of once inside.

Integral ridgeline hammocks are the same as unstructured hammocks except they add a structured line across the top that connects the endpoints of the hammock. This creates a tensioned ridge that suspends bug netting and rain flies above the occupant and also maintains a uniform droop regardless of the length and angle of the support ropes. These are also tough to fall out of.

Spreader bar hammocks use a bar or pole at each end to support the hammock from center to edge along its short axis. This makes the hammock feel more like a mattress and keeps the edges from rolling in. But, it also makes for a tippier feeling hammock.

Speed

The hardest part of setting up a hammock may be finding a pair of suitably spaced trees. Once we've found a couple of stout trees spaced about 12 to 18 feet apart, set up is fast. A simple hammock can go up in seconds. Adding mosquito netting, if not integral, and guying out fly lines adds a couple minutes, if needed. We can hang the Hennessy Hammock Jungle Explorer with its integral bug net and fly and being toes-up in about three minutes on a good evening. Morning get-out is fast, too. Untie one side and stuff it in a bag as you walk. By the time you've reached the other tree, you're ready to roll.

Knots

Don't worry, if you don't want to learn knots, then plan on shelling out a few extra bucks for some daisy chain webbing and a couple of carabineers. The longer the webbing, the more options for hanging the hammock. Just keep in mind, the longer the run from tree to hammock, the more droop will be introduced.

Temps

The ground is a heat-sucking beast. In the height of summer, the earth can help cool us off. But, more often, it'll draw too much heat in temperate environments and wake us up with a predawn chill, which is why we always haul a ground pad, even when the weather's warm.

Sleeping suspended in the air with only a few millimeters of fabric to buffer the ambient temperature means a more comfortable sleep in hot weather. But, anywhere other than the tropics will leave you wanting some insulation since that thin layer of fabric and a slight breeze is a recipe for convection cooling that'll turn your lips blue on a summer night in New England. Laying an inflatable ground pad inside a hammock is one way to do it, but an underquilt is a more packable solution.

Bugs

A mosquito can bite through fabric. The weave of thicker fabrics can form a labyrinth that will blunt a syringe-like stinger, but even tightly woven, ultralight fabrics used in hammocks will offer mediocre protection from biting and stinging insects. The best protection is a double bottom. This isn't two tight layers of fabric, but a layer that you lay on with a looser layer of fabric that forms an air space too great for an insect's stinger to span.

A bonus of this design is insulation. Empty, the space provides a buffer between you and the ambient air. But, packing a lofty blanket in there, or a thin reflective pad (the kind used inside a car's windshield to prevent faded dashboards in the summer) adds an effective layer of uncompressed insulation without needing to carry an inflatable pad.

Once you have your ass covered, you'll want to have something overhead to keep the biters at bay. Some hammocks have built-in bug netting, some offer it as an accessory that wraps around the hammock. Both work. One offers speed of setup/breakdown, the other modularity.

Rain

Keeping the rain and sun at bay in a tent isn't that different than it is on a tent. Both use a rain fly. Some flies are a breeze to set up, hooking to the hammock that's already guyed out. Some are more involved and require ground stakes.

Fight the Bowl

Lying in a hammock invites visions of curled-back sailors swaying in the breeze. Not so in modern hammocks. All of the hammocks we present are made to accommodate a diagonal sleeping position. If the hammock straps are 12 and 6 o'clock, then you're laying across the hammock with your head at 1:30 and your feet at 7:30. Lying this way, the hammock is nearly flat. No bowl bottom.

Ditch the Tent?

If all of the above doesn't allay your fears of sleeping suspended, we haven't even talked about the practical aspects of a hammock when living rough in uncertain times. A hammock has a tiny footprint compared to a tent. It also leaves a smaller signature after it's removed. There's no big square area of crushed brush highlighting your passage when your tent is a hammock.

Oh, the downside? Well, there's very little storage inside a hammock. Some have pockets in the ridgeline or on the edge. But, your pack and other gear is on the ground, under the fly. If you hang the hammock low, it's like a huge tent atrium. So, it's not bad. But, if you're used to laying stuff around you in a tent, you're going to have to adjust.

The only other issue that comes to mind when comparing camping hammocks to tents is the amount of people you can fit in them. There's no such thing as a party hammock. Well, not one that we've heard of. You can find a double hammock, but it's not for the unromantically involved to share.

All things equal, and depending on the location you're planning to visit, you can replace a tent with a hammock system and never look back. If you've got a hammock system and trees, you're in business. Forget the tent. You'll never miss it. Lighter, faster, smaller. Hammocks are it.

Bug-Out Hammocks

  • Grand Trunk Kryptek Highlander Double Hammock

    Type - Unstructured Hammock
    Weight - 20 oz (Hammock & steel 'biners)
    Colors - Kryptek Highlander, Typhoon, Yeti
    MSRP - $100
    URL - http://www.grandtrunk.com/kryptek

    The Kryptek Double Hammock is at home on the beach or in the woods. Its subdued colors and Kryptek camo will reduce your visual signature in wooded environments and will reduce the chances of waking up to a gun in your face.

  • Hennessy Hammock Jungle Explorer Zip

    Type - Structural Ridgeline Hammock
    Weight - 59 oz (Hammock, Fly, Snake Skins, Straps)
    Colors - Bark
    MSRP - $280
    URL - http://www.hennessyhammock.com

    Tom Hennessy nailed the hammock tent. His line of suspended shelters sets the standard for camping hammocks as far as we're concerned.

  • Kammok Roo

    Type - Unstructured Hammock
    Weight - 24 oz (Hammock, 'biners)
    Colors - Red, Blue, Green, Purple, Gold, Sahara (shown)
    MSRP - $99
    URL - http://www.kammok.com

    Kammok wins the most technical hammock category.

  • Lawson Hammock Blue Ridge Camping Hammock

    Type - Spreader Bar Hammock
    Weight - 68 oz
    Colors - Green
    MSRP - $170
    URL - http://www.lawsonhammock.com

    There are a few reasons why the Blue Ridge Hammock has gained a loyal following.

  • Nemo Equipment Tetrapod SE

    Type - Structural Ridgeline Hammock
    Weight - 24.4 oz (Hammock, Straps, Fly)
    Colors - Gray, Green
    MSRP - $400
    URL - http://www.nemoequipment.com

    Nemo Equipment did their homework on this shelter.

  • Therm-A-Rest Slacker

    Type - Unstructured Hammock
    Weight - 16 oz
    Colors - Blue, Green, Gray
    MSRP - $70
    URL - http://www.cascadedesigns.com

    The Slacker Hammock came out last year with a bug net and a set of hanging straps. This year, the company will complete the hammock enterprise with the addition of a rain fly and a hammock warmer.

  • Yukon Outfitters V2 Ultralight Camo Hammock w/Suspension Straps

    Type - Unstructured Hammock
    Weight - 28 oz
    Colors - UN Camo
    MSRP - $99
    URL - http://www.yukon-outfitters.com

    Yukon Outfitters didn't start on a Thai beach, but on the banks of the Big Salmon River in Alaska. One of the company founders lost his coat at the outset of a spring fly-fishing trip. He was forced to buy an expensive raincoat that wasn't worth the price and decided on the spot to make affordable gear that would hold up to the riggers of travel and modern adventures.

More From Issue 11

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Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original print version for the web.

Build Your Own Survival Bow

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Cool leaves of yellow and red pelted my face and hands in the autumn breeze. The wind was in my face, blowing from my quarry toward me. Good, I thought, one more advantage. He wouldn't be able to smell me. I waited for my prey to move clear of the vegetation, as one stray vine or branch could send my arrow careening off target. The shot was lining up perfectly. It was as if I were watching this happen to someone else. I was detached, emotionless, and simply allowing things to happen.

Age-old instincts took hold, and I began to draw the bow. My camouflage was perfect, right down to the bark still clinging to the back of my field-built bow. I drew the nock of the arrow to the right corner of my mouth. Then, to my dismay, the wooden bow made a sound like the “tick” of some large clock. My prey, a fat gray squirrel, looked right at me and bolted faster than my arrow could follow. I muttered a curse under my breath, and then fixed myself on the same thought that my ancestors must have thought on 10,000 failed hunts before me: next time…

It's entirely true that a field-built bow has a lot of quirks, ticks, and actual ticking sounds as you break-in the wood fibers (or actually break them). But if you don't have access to a bow after wolfing down the last of your emergency food supplies and firing your last round, it's nice to know that you can build your own bow just as our forebears once did. The natural materials for the archery tackle haven't changed at all in 10 millennia — all you need is wood, fiber, glue, feathers, and a sharp point for each arrow.

So maybe you're a hunter, looking to take things to the next level by building your own equipment. Or perhaps you're a serious prepper, interested in yet another backup method of food procurement. Or maybe you just watched the movie Predator one too many times as a kid and want to build an alien-slaying primitive bow, worthy of Arnold himself. Whatever the motivation, we're glad you're here. Bow making is an ancestral art form dating back thousands of years and appears in almost every traditional culture on earth. It's a means of hunting for food and fighting back against predatory animals and similarly motivated humans.

Making your own bows, arrows, and archery tackle are also a confidence builder and quite a bit of fun. Read along, and we'll give you the beginner's guide to the tools, materials, and techniques for survival bow making.

The Setup

You may imagine that you'd need an entire woodworking shop to build a wooden bow, and certainly, that wouldn't hurt. But you can also do all of the important work with a fixed-blade knife, a multitool, and a billet to strike the spine of the fixed-blade knife that will baton your way through the wood (see “Firewood Fundamentals” in Issue 10 of OG). The knife and multitool could be part of your normal everyday carry gear, and to finish off your bow-making toolkit, carry a few bow strings, some thread, a few fletchings, and some arrowheads.

Modern “glue-on” broad heads or “trade blank” points can be bought from specialty catalogs and websites, and are similar to the ones that were once traded to native cultures by Europeans. If you're particularly handy, you could chip arrowheads from stone or glass. You could also improvise your own bow strings from 550 cord, but a word of caution: 550 cord is a bit too elastic for the job of bowstring, even after stretching and twisting.

Arrowheads are modern glue-on broad-head, trade blank metal point, a stone point, and a beer bottle point.

Arrowheads are modern glue-on broad-head, trade blank metal point, a stone point, and a beer bottle point.

Finally, you'll need the bow stick (also called a stave or billet, respectively). This can be a recently deceased sapling or branch from a larger tree. You'll want it dead and dry (but not rotten) for same-day use. If you can wait a few weeks, you could also cut a live sapling and allow it to dry in the shade, ideally with any cut ends sealed with paint or glue to prevent cracking. Do a bit of research to find out about the favored bow woods used by the native peoples of your area. Chances are good that those are your top choices.

In the East, I go out of my way to get hickory and black locust. I've also used ash, oak, maple, and other local hardwoods with good results. For those in the Midwest, look for osage orange, which is excellent. Midwesterners can also try more flexible species of juniper. And for the West Coast, try your hand with yew and cedar.

And while you're assembling your supplies, treat yourself to a strip of leather for an armguard. This may save you from a nasty bruise or large blister if you are shooting with bare forearms. A pencil is handy too, though a chunk of charcoal will suffice. A piece of 100-grit sandpaper and a tape measure will finish out your supplies for your first bow.

The How-To:

Step 1: Pick your Stave

This is where you begin striding down the golden path to glory, or the nature trail to hell. You need to select a suitable bow wood species, and it needs to be a good specimen. Start with one of the woods listed above, such as hickory or black locust. Osage orange is a little finicky for beginners. The bow we are creating here is a “quickie” stick bow. It will be more forgiving if the finished bow is longer, rather than shorter.

Start with a dead branch or sapling that shows no sign of rotting (no fungus, and the bark is tightly attached). It could be 6 or 7 feet long when cut in the field, and worked down to 5 or 6 feet long for the finished bow. Pick a stave that's relatively straight and free of knots, side branches, and twists. It should also be about 2 inches in diameter at the thicker end.

Again, if you plan to work the wood later, cut a live sapling and dry it for a few weeks, preferably a few months.

Step 2: Plan Your Bow's Shape

This means that you'll need to find the bow's belly, back, grip, and lay out the limbs. Start by figuring out which way the stick “wants” to bend. Hold the bow stave upright, with one end on the ground. Generally, this is the thicker end on the ground, in the orientation that the sapling once grew. Grab the top of the stave loosely with one hand and push on the middle of the stave. The stick should naturally swivel to indicate its tendency to bend. The outside of the bend is known as the “back” of the bow, and it is the side of the bow that faces your target. The inside of the curve is called the “belly,” and it faces the archer.

Be careful not to mix up these terms (or sides) as you work. Since the back receives the tension when the bow is drawn, damage to the outer growth ring on the back can cause the bow to break. Don't carve, hack, or saw into the back of the bow.

Finally, figure out where your grip will be. Find the middle point of the stave and mark out a 6-inch grip area in the middle. The belly area of the grip will remain unworked (for now). The wood above the grip is called the upper limb, the wood below is the lower limb.

Step 3: Shape the Belly

Bend your prospective bow again, pushing on the grip area from the belly side of the bow. Do this repeatedly and study the way that the upper and lower limbs bend. Generally speaking, the thicker limbs don't bend as much and will require more carving than the thinner limb. Look for areas that bend and spots that don't. Mark the areas that don't bend. Rest the bow stave against a tree, ideally in the fork of a tree. Use your fixed-blade knife and a baton to begin removing wood from the belly of the bow where you have marked them as stiff. Thin down the areas that don't bend, and for now, leave alone the sections that do bend.

build-your-own-survival-bow-stick-bow-belly-shaping

Your goal for this rough shaping process is to leave the back of the bow untouched, and to get the limbs to bend equally by thinning down the belly of the bow. Go slowly and bend the bow often to check your progress. The grip and limb tips (ears) shouldn't bend at this point. Once the stave is bending equally and looking a bit like a bow, you're ready to put a string on it to more accurately see its action. Remember that thick staves require a significant amount of carving, but they typically yield stronger bows. And conversely, slender staves may only need a little belly shaping, but they're often weak bows.

build-your-own-survival-bow-stick-bow-nocking-point

Step 4: Cut Your Notches (Carefully!)

This can be the part were neophyte bowyers destroy all of their hard work. Notch cutting on the bow ears must be done carefully. Use the saw on your multitool to cut small matching notches on the both sides of each bow ear. Cut them on an angle, thinking about the direction the string will pull from each ear toward the grip. Do NOT saw into the back of the bow, just cut into the sides. These cuts should be shallow, just enough to seat the bow string. Attach your string to both ears. It doesn't need to be tight yet; this is simply for testing. Don't be tempted to do your best Hunger Games pose yet either, drawing a rough-shaped bow is a great way to shatter it!

build-your-own-survival-bow-stick-bow-notches

Step 5: What the Hell Is Tillering?

Chances are good that you've never heard the word “tillering” before. It's simply a word that means thinning and shaping, usually in the context of woodworking. And that's what we are doing next.

Cut off a nearby tree branch, about head height, leaving a stub. You could also use some similar way to affix the bow grip. Pull downward on the bow string, gently at first. Carefully study how the limbs bend. You want to see each limb bending equally across its full length. You also want to make sure that the limbs bend equally — compared to each other. The two limbs should look like a mirror image of each other when bent. Use your pencil again to mark areas that are not bending enough. I like to shade them in aggressively, then carve away the marks completely, yet cautiously. It's best to take your string off when carving, so you don't accidentally nick it or cut it.

Tillering may take a while, perhaps hours, but this is how you make a bow. Recheck your strung bow frequently, and continue tillering until you feel you are pulling the string nearly to your draw length. Draw length is measured by holding a bow and pull the string back as if to fire and arrow. Measure the length between the grip and your jaw. Most draw lengths are around 28 to 30 inches for adults. Shorter folks and kids have shorter draw lengths, taller folks have longer ones.

Step 6: Finishing

Continue tillering, checking your limb bend and checking your draw length until you are feeling confident that your bow feels like a real bow. Sand down or carefully carve the belly of the bow to smooth it and remove any “chop marks” from your baton work. This is critical to eliminate weak points. Chop marks tend to create hinge points in the belly, which lead to breaks in the bow back. If you're curious about the poundage of the bow, you can test it now by getting a 5-foot piece of 2×4 lumber.

Use a tape measure and pencil to mark the inches on the lumber, up to 30 inches. Stand the lumber vertically on a standard bathroom scale. Set the bow grip on top of the lumber and pull the string down across the numbers you've marked. When you've pulled down on the string to a full draw length, check the scale reading for a good estimate of your draw weight. You can use a 25- to 35-pound draw weight bow for small-game hunting and target practice. You'll need a 40- to 60-pound draw weight for bigger game animals.

build-your-own-survival-bow-stick-bow-arrows

Conclusion

Bow-making and arrow-making are some of the most challenging feats of craftsmanship you can take on during a survival situation, but they are also proven and vetted game changers. The skills of bow and arrow making, and archery itself, could make you an invaluable member of your team or group. With a serviceable bow and a few well-built arrows, it's possible to take down a variety of game animals (some of which are almost impossible to take without projectile weapons).

build-your-own-survival-bow-stick-bow-ready-aim-fire

After taking small game like rabbits, opossums, and raccoons, you can feed yourself for a day. By taking deer and large game, you can feed yourself for a month or provide for a whole camp of people for many days. In darker times, archery could even be used as a means of self-defense, but let's all hope it doesn't come to that.

Archery and bow-making, like many skills, carry a big learning curve, so it's best to start working on them now, rather than later. And despite all the blisters, splinters, and tears, this can be an immensely rewarding pursuit and quite possibly — your new favorite hobby!

Build Your Own Arrows

As you've seen, there's quite a bit of detail involved in the construction of seemingly simple survival stick bows. You'll have to pay close attention to craftsmanship if you're planning to build bows for the next Katniss Everdeen or some kind of dystopian Robin Hood. But now it's time for a bombshell. The bow isn't the hardest thing to make. At the end of the day (or the end of civilization), the bow is just a bendy stick with a string on it. That's all it is, a stick and a string.

The part that really takes some skill to create is the projectile, better known as the arrow. A great bow won't help us to survive without a proper set of arrows to fire from it. And if you thought bow making was hard, try crafting aerodynamic arrows from scratch — out in the woods. Arrow-making is where your biggest challenge lies. But don't let me scare you off. I'm just adjusting your expectations. Our ancestors built fine arrows from raw materials in the wild, and so can we. Here are the basic steps:

  • Step 1: Find slender and straight saplings, reeds, cane, or bamboo that are already arrow shaft diameter (5/16 inch underneath the bark for hardwood, a little thicker for hollow things like cane). Let nature do the work growing the perfect materials. Don't waste your time trying to whittle a log into an arrow shaft.
  • Step 2: Trim and straighten the arrow shafts. You'll need to trim, carve, or sand off anything that is not contributing to the perfect dowel shape. Cut the shafts a little longer than you think you'll need. Finished arrows should span from the nock to about 2 inches past your knuckles at full draw. The material should be dead, but not rotten. Straighten any curved or crooked spots by warming the spot over a fire, bending it a little beyond straight, and holding the spot in that position until cool. This heating (holding) cooling process helps the woody materials to retain a new shape, which could be “straight” if you do it right.
  • Step 3: Saw the notch and add the fletching. Carefully saw a notch (aka nock) about 1/2-inch deep into the end of the shaft (a multitool saw blade is usually the right size for this). It should match the width of your bow string. If using a hollow material, use a wooden plug and an insert and cut the notch in the solid wood — not the hollow shaft (unless you want to see the string cut the arrow in half). Then plan where your feathers will go in relation to the notch. Two feathers will need to line up with the notch, parallel to it.
    With three feathers, the feathers will need to be equidistant from each other, with one feather perpendicular to the notch cut. These fletchings can be hard to accomplish without glue, even harder if you don't have a dead bird to provide a good assortment of feathers. Your feathers should match on each arrow. Use all right-wing feathers on one arrow, for example. Keep left wing and tail feathers together as well. Trim the fletching, apply glue if you have any, and tie them tightly in place with whatever string you can scrounge. Make sure the front edge of the fletching (toward the arrowhead) is smooth and well secured, or else it may scratch your hand as it glides across when fired.
  • Step 4: Attach your point. Small flat metal arrowheads would be a wonderful thing to add to your bug-out bag, along with a few proper bow strings. Saw a notch in the front of your arrow, then carve a slight tapering to the end of the shaft for better penetration. Glue the arrowhead in place, and bind it tightly with string. If you don't have metal points, try to make some or use stone or glass points you have chipped into a triangle shape. Failing all that, simply carve a point on the wooden shaft or leave it blunt to strike small game.

Anatomy of a Bow

build-your-own-survival-bow-stick-bow-bow-anatomy

Back: This is the side of the bow that faces away from you as you pull on the bow string. The back of the bow is toward the target. If a bow breaks, the back will often produce splinters of wood, as the back is under tension due to the wood fibers pulling away from each other.

Belly: The belly of the bow is on the inside of the bow, facing you as you pull the bow string. If a bow breaks, the belly may hinge or fold while breaking due to the fibers being compacted in the belly. In modern archery, the belly is now called the “face.”

Bowyer: A person who makes bows.

Brace height: The distance from the grip to the string when the bow is strung. The Old English term is “Fistmele,” which is the length of your hand when giving a “thumb's up.”

Ears: Each end of each limb is referred to as an ear, basically the last couple of inches on each end of the bow.

Grip: The grip is the middle of the bow where you actually grip it.

Limb: Each end of the bow is considered a limb, so every bow has two limbs, even though it may be made from one limb of a tree.

Stave: A solid stick of wood that will be made into a bow, also referred to as a “bow stave.”

Take Aim and Fire!

We could write a whole book on traditional bow marksmanship and aiming … and still not cover it all. But if you can stay alive long enough to get in lots of practice, you can learn a lot through observation and experience. So, to keep you alive that long (hopefully), here are the bare-bones basics.

First, you'll need to figure out your dominant eye. You can use the same trick that many early shooters use. Outstretch your arms, make a triangle or circle with both hands, and pick a distant object to look at through your hand opening (both eyes open). Take turns closing your right eye and left eye, to see which one is still looking at the distant object. The eye that's still on target (or sort-of on target) is your dominant eye. If you are right-eye dominant, hold the bow grip in your left fist and shoot across your left knuckles. If you are left-eye dominant, hold the bow grip in your right hand and shoot across your right knuckles. This puts your dominant eye looking right down the shaft. I'm right handled, but left-eye dominant. As such, I've been working on my “southpaw” shooting. Let me tell you without hesitation, eye dominance matters more than hand dominance.

Next, eliminate the variables. Make a mark on your bow grip so your hand always grasps the exact same spot. Then tie a wad of thread around your bow string to create a nocking point that matches the top of your grip. Don't tie your bowstring itself into a knot to create this lump in the string. That's too much stress on the bow string. Use a separate string tied in place.

Then start shooting the bow at a soft target, like a decaying stump. See whether you are more accurate with your arrow nock over or under the nocking point on the string, and try different finger placements. And for safety, wear a glove on the hand that is holding the bow, so that rough fletchings don't scratch up your hand.

Finally — practice, practice, and practice. Make certain that you draw the bow to the same spot for each shot. Try to keep your back “flat” when you are at full draw, and parallel to the target and arrow's path. And then practice some more.

Making Bows = Breaking Bows

It's been said by wiser bowyers than me, that a fully drawn bow is a stick that's almost broken. This is an unpleasant thing to imagine, especially when you have to invest so much time and labor into the process of bow-making. Yes, the lovely bow that you have carefully crafted could break at any time. It could be a hidden flaw in the wood, or more likely, an error in craftsmanship. But there are a few ways to prevent untimely breaks and cracks in your finished stick bow:

  • Never over-draw your bow (bending it farther than it was meant to bend).
  • Don't cut through the growth rings on the back of the bow.
  • Taper the belly of the bow smoothly. Abrupt changes in the bow's thickness create “hinges.” These are spots where the bow limb literally folds and creases, leading to breakage.
  • Protect the finished bow from dings, cuts, scrapes, and scratches. Don't use the bow as a tool, pry bar, walking stick, digging stick, etc. Damage to the bow's surface creates weak points, and weak points lead to breakage.

Oil the bow with grease from your first kill. Wipe some warm animal fat into the bow limbs to keep them supple, prevent cracking and prevent moisture from soaking into the bow. A dry bow is a snappier bow, while a damp bow is more sluggish.

Sources

Hunting & Gathering Survival Manual
www.amazon.com

Three Rivers Achery Supply
www.3RiversArchery.com

Traditional Bowyer's Bibles
www.boisdarcpress.com

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Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original print version for the web.

Infographic: Combat Vehicles of the US Military

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Some people like to bird-watch, peering through binoculars to spot rare avian species. Now, there's nothing wrong with bird-watching, as it's a great way to understand the wildlife in your surrounding area, but we prefer to apply this skill set to a different hobby: military vehicle spotting. It's fun to be able to quickly identify various pieces of hardware we come across, whether that's a Humvee, APC, tank, or even a helicopter. Driving by Camp Pendleton in southern California, we practice this skill frequently.

Here's an easy one. Can you identify this vehicle? Photo: Wikipedia

Here's an easy one. Can you identify this helicopter? Photo: Wikipedia

Bird watchers often use a guide book or chart to determine the species they've spotted. So, as military gear spotters, we also see the usefulness of a reference chart. Browsing the internet recently, we came across this cool chart from Pop Chart Lab, called “Combat Vehicles of the US Military”. It shows illustrations of almost every vehicle currently in use by the US military—land, sea, and air.

For a larger version, click here to view it, or click the image below and hit “Download” in the top right corner.

Military vehicles guide 1

If you like this guide, you can buy a large poster of it from Pop Chart Lab. We'd say it could make a cool addition to an office or man cave, and can help you memorize these vehicles each time you glance at it. Knowing the difference between an Apache and a Super Cobra might seem geeky to some, but we think it's a useful skill and a fun hobby.