Portable Lanterns Buyer’s Guide

So you've finally made it to safety. Whether you're taking shelter from a passing tornado or hunkering down in a basement until the bad guys leave, at some point you'll need to be able to see in the dark. It's obvious that having a source of constant light is invaluable.

While we always preach that everyone should have a flashlight, keeping a portable lantern at the ready can illuminate your workspace while freeing up your hands. Like most lighting equipment, portable lanterns come in many shapes and sizes with differing features. In this guide, we take a look at models that can be easily stowed. These lanterns are made to be packable and can be stuffed into a car trunk, glovebox, camping pack, or bug-out bag. Depending on what your end use is, there's a lantern here that'll fit your needs.

Portable Lanterns Buyer's Guide

  • Black Diamond Apollo

    Colorway - Colorway Matte Black, Ultra White (shown)
    Lumen Output - High 80 / Low 10
    Runtime - High 15 hr. / Low 60 hr.
    Overall Width - 3 in. / Open: 5.5 in.
    Overall Height - Closed: 5.125 in. / Open: 9.625 in.
    Weight With Battery - 11.4 oz.
    Battery Type - AA (four, not included) or NRG Rechargeable Battery Kit (sold separately)
    Controls - Constant-on/variable-adjust push button
    MSRP - $50
    URL - http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com

    Looking like it just landed on the surface of the moon, the aptly named Apollo spews out 80 lumens of bright ambient light on its highest setting and is adjustable down to 10 lumens on its lowest setting.

  • Coast EAL20

    Colorway - Black and yellow
    Lumen Output - High 375 / Variable
    Runtime - Low 100 hr.
    Overall Width - 5.5 in.
    Overall Height - 8.25 in.
    Weight With Battery - 2 lbs 4.5 oz.
    Battery Type - D (four, not included)
    Controls - Constant-on push button, variable output selection dial
    MSRP - $54
    URL - http://www.coastportland.com

    The Coast EAL20 LED Lantern is equipped with nine LEDs (one white and eight red) which provide approximately 375 lumens of bright light on its highest setting or 80 hours of runtime on its lowest power saving setting with four D batteries.

  • Coleman CPX 6 Triago Lantern

    Colorway - Black and red
    Lumen Output - High 450 (lantern) / High 150 (panel)
    Runtime - Low 300 hr. (lantern) / Low 7 hr. (panel)
    Overall Width - 6 in.
    Overall Height - 10.75 in.
    Weight With Battery - 4 lbs 5.2 oz.
    Battery Type - D (four, not included), rechargeable cartridge (sold separately)
    Controls - Constant push-button switch on lantern base and on each panel
    MSRP - $120
    URL - http://www.coleman.com

    The Triago illuminates a wide swath of area at 450 lumens on its high setting for up to 13 hours.

  • Goal Zero Lighthouse 250 Lantern

    Colorway - Black
    Lumen Output - High 250 / Variable
    Runtime - High 2.5 hr. / Low 48 hr.
    Overall Width - 4.5 in.
    Overall Height - 6.25 in.
    Weight With Battery - 1 lbs 3.5 oz.
    Battery Type - Rechargeable Li-NMC (included)
    Controls - Rotary dial switch, emergency signal push button
    MSRP - $80
    URL - http://www.goalzero.com

    Packed full of features, the Lighthouse 250 Lantern can be charged via a wall outlet, a built-in hand crank, or even with an optional Goal Zero solar panel.

  • Kelty Flashback Mini

    Colorway - Ano Black (shown), Ano Green, Ano Orange
    Lumen Output - Lantern Mode: High 50 / Low 20; Flashlight Mode High 70 / Low 20
    Runtime - High 13 hr. / Low 38 hr.
    Overall Width - Closed: 2.25 in. / Open: 2.25 in.
    Overall Height - Closed: 3.75 in. / Open: 5.25 in.
    Weight With Battery - 8.8 oz.
    Battery Type - AAA (four, not included)
    Controls - Constant-on push-button switch
    MSRP - $40
    URL - http://www.kelty.com

    In its compact form, the Flashback Mini acts as a flashlight. When fully deployed from its telescoping aluminum body, it's a lantern capable of lighting up an area about 15 feet in any direction.

  • Streamlight The Siege

    Colorway - Coyote
    Lumen Output - High 340 / Mid 175 / Low 33 / Red 10 / S.O.S. 10
    Runtime - High 30 hr. / Mid 70 hr. / Low 295 hr. / Red 235 hr. / S.O.S. 430 hr.
    Overall Width - 3.75 in.
    Overall Height - 7.25 in.
    Weight With Battery - 1 lbs 14.8 oz.
    Battery Type - D (three, not included)
    Controls - Constant-on push-button switch
    MSRP - $61
    URL - http://www.streamlight.com

    The Siege is hardcore. It's rated IPX7, meaning that it's waterproof to 1 meter and is impact resistant up to 2 meters. It also floats in water and has a rubber molded cap, body, and base for enhanced grip.


Martial Arts Myth: Knife Attack Self-Defense

We've all seen knife fights in movies and TV shows. The dastardly villain pulls a glistening stiletto, makes some quip about how it has been knife to know our hero, then makes an overhand stabbing motion you'd see coming a mile away. The hero expertly deflects the stab with his forearm, roundhouse kicks the villain into a nearby fruit stand, and rides off into the sunset. Roll credits.

Unsurprisingly, the reality of a knife fight is nothing like this—think less like “The Mask of Zorro” and more like a prison shanking. It's fast, vicious, and often the victim doesn't even realize they've been stabbed until they notice the blood. Knife attacks are so sudden and unpredictable, you probably won't be able to block them effectively, even with considerable training.

Don't just take our word for it, watch this video for a good explanation from martial arts instructor Richard Dmitri (NSFW language):

As you can see, you do not want to go up against an attacker with a knife, especially in close quarters. If your opponent pulls a knife and you're unarmed, your first option should always be to escape. That may sound cowardly to some, but the odds would be stacked against your survival, and running may be the only way to remain unharmed.

If you're sure there's no escape, use kicks or improvised weapons from your surroundings to keep your distance. Attempt to distract or disorient your attacker, then make a run for it when you can. Here's another video that sums up the options effectively:

Despite the myth that most people can effectively block a knife attack with limited training, it's not as easy as some martial arts trainers make it seem. Do yourself a favor: run and live to fight another day.


Techniques to Break Free From a Kidnapper’s Restraints

Kidnappings are an all-too-real situation both at home and abroad. Whether you're an overseas contractor, a deckhand on a freighter in unfriendly waters, or a tourist in a foreign country who wandered into the wrong part of town, the unfortunate reality is that the fate of unlawful abductions and incarcerations can often be the worst kind. What's even more discouraging is that the availability of training for the average person to deal with these kinds of situations is limited at best.

Assume neither Liam Neeson nor anyone else is going to find and free you. You're on your own. So in the event you are taken by unknown assailants and restrained, what can you do to escape?

The variables that can occur in these situations are only limited by your imagination. You may be blindfolded, gagged, partially or fully undressed, in the same room with your captors or alone, and bound in various different ways with various different materials. Since we can't cover every possibility, we've spoken to a few experts on what to do to free yourself from common restraints (handcuffs, duct tape, rope, and zip ties) and staged a few situations to demonstrate ways to possibly break out of these restraints. Take a look at these methods and arm yourself with the self-reliance that could very well save your life.

Preparation

Kevin Reeve — whose company, onPoint Tactical LLC, offers courses in tracking, survival, escape, and evasion skills — says kidnappings are typically motivated by three factors: profit, political reasons, and ideological reasons (such as religion). You may not realize it, but you may fit one of these criteria just by traveling in an unsafe area. Take the time to familiarize yourself with where you are going. Know where the closest military bases, embassies, and consulates are located. After you escape, you will need to find a safe haven that'll offer asylum and enable you to contact help. If you are captured within the United States, finding a fire station or police station would also suffice; however, these facilities may provide little protection in foreign countries.

Landmarks can help you navigate. For example, if you are going to Paris, finding the Eiffel Tower on the horizon and knowing where it is in relation to safe locations is recommended. See the article “No Compass, No GPS, No Problem” in the Winter 2014 issue of OFFGRID. The U.S. Department of State also offers travel advisories and warnings on its website (www.state.gov). Familiarize yourself with these before traveling abroad. Knowing danger zones and avoiding a potentially life-threatening situation to begin with is the most effective tool you can have.

Reeve also suggests carrying small and discreet tools that can help facilitate an escape, as well as having them in several tiers if some are confiscated. “I have a lock pick set in my pocket, one in the back of a search-and-rescue belt, and then I have other picks sewn into pads on my clothing. If they take my shoes and belt, I'll still have three tiers: pocket, belt, and inside the clothes. There are three or four restraint escape devices that I also carry. Usually a handcuff key, a V cutter on a string, and a diamond rod, which is a diamond-coated wire about a 1⁄32 of an inch thick and 3 inches long,” Reeve says. This may seem excessive, but in survival situations it's all about having as many advantages as possible. We'll discuss resources that sell these tools in a bit.

Time is of the essence. “As time progresses, the quality of your incarceration increases,” says Reeve. The sooner you can escape, the better your odds of survival. The more time passes, the more difficult escape becomes.

Passive Resistance

When you are forced to surrender to your captors, Reeve suggests “passive resistance” techniques to help stack the odds in your favor without your captors knowing it. Do not act threatening to your kidnappers or look them in the eyes. “Generally the more compliant you are at this stage, the better it is for you,” says Reeve. You can also try to persuade your captors to bind your hands where you can see your restraints and therefore have an easier time breaking out of them. “Present your hands in front of you hoping your captors will accept that arrangement,” says Craig Sawyer, a former Navy SEAL with experience in running high-threat mobile security operations.

Orient yourself. Are you alone? If so, what is in the room that you can reach and use to escape? What are you bound with? If you can't see it, feel it to get a better idea. Does anything around you have hard or sharp edges, such as a closet track, door, wall corner, or table? Is there anything on the floor such as paper clips or pens? You have to use everything at your disposal that may help free you.

Handcuffs

Handcuffs tend to be a bit generic. One key may work on a variety of different handcuff types. “Smith & Wesson Model 100 handcuffs account for about 60 percent of the market. The reason is because people have to transfer prisoners and they don't want a special key for each one,” says Reeve. First, if your cuffs are not in front of you, try to bring them out in front of you. “This is far better for numerous reasons: increased mobility, the fact that you can easily see and manipulate your restraints, your reach is increased, you can fire weapons if the opportunity arises, etc.,” says Sawyer.

Arm and torso length varies from person to person, and it may not be possible for you to bring the cuffs in front of you. If your hands are stuck behind your back, you'll need to figure out the orientation of the locking mechanism. Is the keyhole facing your hands or your elbow? Is the cuff double or single locked? Once you establish this, you'll have a better understanding of how to manipulate the lock.

A bobby pin or small, thin piece of metal can be fashioned into a lock pick by bending one end of it into a shape that resembles a hand crank.

A bobby pin or small, thin piece of metal can be fashioned into a lock pick by bending one end of it into a shape that...

The next step is finding or making a tool. Assuming you don't have a cuff key available, a bobby pin or small, thin piece of metal can be fashioned into a lock pick by bending one end of it into a shape that resembles a hand crank. You can use the keyhole to help bend it into the appropriate shape. A thin piece of metal called a shim can also be used. The metal clip of a pen cap can be broken off and used as a shim. If you're double locked, you'll have to use a bobby pin or something like it to open the cuffs. If you're single locked, you can shim or bobby pin the lock open.

Another method is try to slide your hands forward toward your captor as your cuffs are applied with the intention of them being fastened around your forearms. This way the cuffs will be closed loosely, and you may have enough room to pull your hands through the opening. Enlarging your wrists may also cause the cuffs to be closed loosely. “The technique is to align your wrists and flex them in a manner that causes the restraints to be loose once you relax and change the angle. Basically, put your wrists next to each other and make fists. Once the restraints are applied, relax, realign, and attempt to slip out,” says Sawyer.

Slide your hands forward toward your captor as your cuffs are applied with the intention of them being fastened around your forearms. This way the cuffs will be closed loosely, and you may have enough room to pull your hands through the opening.

Slide your hands forward toward your captor as your cuffs are applied with the intention of them being fastened around...

To escape using some sort of lock-picking device takes some practice. By using a diamond rod, you may also be able to saw through the cuff chains by working it back and forth. With enough practice, you can use any of these techniques to escape in a reasonable amount of time. Having a diagram of the internal workings of cuffs or cutaway cuffs that have a piece of plastic where the top piece of metal goes is also a great teaching aid to practice with. We must also reiterate that escaping from lawful custody is illegal, and these techniques are for unlawful abductions and incarcerations only.

Single Lock: Insert the bobby pin into the narrow part of the keyhole, bend the pin down toward the side where the cuffs will open, and this will release the ratchet to open the cuffs.picking-single-lock-hand-cuffs-with-bobby-pin

Double Lock: If the cuffs have been double locked, put the bobby pin in the keyhole facing the other side, opposite of where the cuffs will open and move it to release the double lock. Then turn the pin around and repeat what you'd do in a single lock situation by turning it to release the ratchet.

Using a Shim: Push a shim between the teeth and the ratchet, leave the shim in place, then turn your wrist to push the toothed end of the cuff open.picking-hand-cuffs-with-a-shim

Zip Ties/FlexiCuffs

Zip ties and FlexiCuffs, which are generally made of nylon or plastic, can be broken or loosened with enough force and are also susceptible to friction. With a fair amount of upper body strength and a wide enough body, if your hands are bound in front of you by zip ties or nylon cuffs, bring your hands above your head and jerk them down in a quick motion with your elbows off to your sides. With enough force you can break them. “Once the zip ties are on, wait for a period when you're left alone and twist your wrists against the bands of the zip ties to break them. Turn, relax, and wiggle your hands to try to slip out of the zip ties, attempt to push the internal metal locking blade of the zip ties down to unlock and remove them,” Sawyer says.

Bring your hands above your head and jerk them down in a quick motion with your elbows off to your sides. With enough force you can break the zip ties.

Bring your hands above your head and jerk them down in a quick motion with your elbows off to your sides. With enough...

By using something hard that creates enough friction, such as the corner of a door, wall, or table, you may also be able to work the binds back and forth over the edge until you've broken through them. Shoelaces made of paracord or Kevlar string are heat resistant enough to be used as a saw to break out of nylon or plastic binds. Sorry, regular cotton shoelaces won't do the trick. If you still have and can reach your shoes, you can unlace them, tie the strings together, tie a loop on both ends to slip your toes into, and in a bicycle motion move the string or cord back and forth to burn through the material.

Shoelaces made of paracord or Kevlar string are heat resistant enough to be used as a saw to break out of nylon or plastic binds.

Shoelaces made of paracord or Kevlar string are heat resistant enough to be used as a saw to break out of nylon or...

Rope

A passive resistance technique Reeve recommends is presenting your hands in such a way that you cross your wrists in front of you and then rotate the lower wrist about 45 degrees to create a space when you put your wrists back parallel. Another option is to put your knuckles and wrists together and then pull your hands toward your chest and push your elbows out. “From the captor's perspective it looks like I'm being very cooperative, and my wrists and hands are close together, but I'm creating a big gap between my wrists by having my elbows out,” Reeve says. “When you bring your elbows back in together, you've created a huge amount of looseness.” Try and create as much space in the rope as you can.

Put your knuckles and wrists together and then pull your hands towards your chest and push your elbows out, creating a big gap between your wrists. When you bring your elbows back in together you've created a huge amount of looseness.

Put your knuckles and wrists together and then pull your hands towards your chest and push your elbows out, creating a...

When you bring your wrists together, rotate your wrists back and forth to stretch the rope and then start pulling on one strand with your teeth to loosen it. Take up as much slack as you can, then do the same thing and work your wrists again until you have stretched it. Pull that loop repeatedly until you can wiggle your hands out.

If your hands are bound at your sides and you have rope wrapped around you, you can wiggle until the rope moves from the wider part of your body to the narrowest part. You can also ball your hands into fists and keep your fists against your thighs as you're being tied so you create space between your forearm and your body. As with cuffs and zip ties, try and resist in a way your captors can't detect that will enable you some degree of looseness.man-tied-up-in-rope

Rope can also be cut through using paracord, Kevlar string, or a diamond rod if you have it hidden on you. Also, as with zip ties, finding a hard surface to work the rope back and forth against until you've burned through or loosened it will help you escape. Phone and electrical cords are also commonly used in home invasions because they're readily available, but can also be cut through using the friction method.

Duct Tape

Believe it or not, duct tape can be fairly easy to tear and escape from. If you can take control of the situation passively enough to have your hands bound in front of you, put your forearms together. As opposed to rope where you bring your hands in and elbows out to create slack, you want duct tape to be tightly bound so that you can have the most leverage later — so extend your arms and put your hands out to get them close together. Like with zip ties, if you have enough upper body strength, bring your hands up over your head and slam your elbows over your ribcage. It will begin to tear the tape. Once you start the tear, you can keep it going. If that doesn't work, find a corner to rub the tape up and down against until it begins to tear.

If you're bound to an object, such as a chair, put pressure on the tape by twisting instead of lifting. If your arms are parallel with the arms of a chair you're bound to, turn your arms 90 degrees to tear the tape. If your legs are bound together, bend over and put your hands together like you're praying, then put your hands between your knees and shove. You'll put enough tension on your legs to tear the tape. If that doesn't work, you can start a tear using the friction method.

Find a corner to rub the tape up and down against until it begins to tear.

Find a corner to rub the tape up and down against until it begins to tear.

Escaping

Escape and evasion techniques are very specific to your situation and too detailed to address here. However, here are a few guidelines to know if you are able to flee your captors. “The first priority is to get as far away as you can. But running can bring attention to yourself,” says Reeve. Try to blend in with the locals. “Second priority is to attend to yourself medically. Third priority is to arm yourself, which may be picking up a piece of rebar or finding a rock and putting it in a sock to use as a weapon in close quarters. Fourth is to attend to physical needs of warmth and water. If you're in Alaska, you'll want to find warm clothing and get into a warm location. Fifth priority is to try to communicate.” Find a payphone, borrow a phone, make a collect call, and do whatever you can to establish comms. “The next priority is to make plans to get home by finding transportation,.” Reeve says.

man-escaping

“You obviously need to know the city, back streets, which neighborhoods are permissive/non-permissive, how all methods of public transportation work there, alternate means of communication, any friendly allies there and how to contact them, plans on where to go, and how to establish contact with friendlies once on the run, etc.,” says Sawyer.

Tools of the Trade

Previously we'd mentioned companies that provide restraint escape and lock-picking devices that will help you escape from unlawful custody. Purchasing non-metallic tools may also give you an advantage if you are searched with a metal detector. You can create your own escape and evasion belt with a hidden compartment containing the tools mentioned previously. Here are companies that provide these types of tools:

www.serepick.com
www.lockpicktools.com

Taking a course in escape and evasion is highly recommended. Practice these techniques at home. Doing so may shave precious minutes off the amount of time you may be kidnapped and held unlawfully. “Just as is the case in Navy SEAL operations,” Sawyer says, “‘Proper prior planning prevents piss poor performance.'”

Danger Zones

According to data provided by Control Risks, an independent, specialist risk consultancy with offices on five continents, here are the top 20 countries leading the world in kidnappings for ransom as of September 2013.

1. Mexico
2. India
3. Nigeria
4. Pakistan
5. Venezuela
6. Lebanon
7. Philippines
8. Afghanistan
9. Colombia
10. Iraq
11. Syria
12. Guatemala
13. Yemen
14. Libya
15. Egypt
16. Brazil (tied)
16. Kenya (tied)
18. Nepal
19. Malaysia (tied)
19. South Africa (tied)

Disclaimer

The techniques described in this article are for the purposes of gaining freedom from kidnappings and unlawful incarcerations only. Escaping from lawful custody is illegal.

Sources

Kevin Reeve > www.onpointtactical.com
Craig Sawyer > www.tacticalinsider.com


USMC Winter Shelters

This winter, it's important for those of us who live in colder climates to prepare for outdoor survival. If you end up stuck outside in the elements, you'll need to think fast and prepare a shelter before the icy wind saps your precious body heat. Fortunately, the U.S. Marine Corps has provided two useful documents that show us how to construct improvised shelters: the Survival, Evasion, and Recovery Handbook and the Winter Survival Course Handbook.

Winter shelter plains

A valley like this is a dangerous place to be exposed, as wind chill can rapidly drop your core temperature.

We looked through these two handbooks, and found 5 different winter shelters that have been tested and proven by the USMC to protect you from the cold. See below for the methods, but first, here are some general tips:

  • Cold climates require enclosed, insulated shelter.
  • Snow is the most abundant insulating material in these climates. Although it is cold to the touch, it's also very effective at containing heat in an enclosed space. So, incorporate it into your shelter.
  • Insulate your body from the snow and the cold ground by putting down a layer of pine boughs or other foliage. This slows the loss of body heat.
  • An air vent is required to prevent carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning from using an open flame inside an enclosed space. CO poisoning can kill you before you even realize there's a problem, so don't forget this step. (Read the Mayo Clinic's guide on symptoms of CO poisoning for more information.)
  • As a general rule, unless you can see your breath, your snow shelter is too warm, and should be cooled down to prevent the snow from melting and dripping.

Snow Wall

Winter Snow Shelters 5

This is what the USMC calls an “immediate shelter”. It's about as basic as it gets, but piling up a snow wall to act as a wind break for your camp is a lot better than sitting totally exposed. Wind chill can drop the perceived ambient temperature by 20 to 30 degrees (or more), so by simply blocking this wind, you'll feel much warmer.

If you're located in a flat plain or valley like the photo above, there are no trees to work with, and the snow is too shallow to dig into, a snow wall may be your best option. File this under last-ditch plan, but don't rule it out completely.

Tree Pit

Winter Snow Shelters 4

The tree pit shelter is another form of immediate shelter. If you can find a sizeable tree buried in a few feet of snow, dig down to the base of the trunk, and cover the ground with boughs from the tree itself.

Winter shelter tree

A pine tree deeply buried in a hillside snow drift is perfect for this type of shelter.

Then, stack more boughs against the trunk above you to serve as a roof. Aside from an ingress/egress hole, try to keep the space as enclosed as possible to retain heat. Simple but effective.

Thermal A-Frame

Winter Snow Shelters 1

You've probably heard of an A-frame shelter before, and this is a winter variant. Build a framework as shown from tree branches or sticks, then cover with a parachute, tarp, or thermal blanket (if you have one). Cover the floor with tree boughs or other soft plant material, which will insulate your body from the cold ground.

Winter shelter pine needles

Evergreen boughs make for excellent bedding material. They're cushy, insulate heat, and even smell nice.

Top off the structure with more tree boughs, preferably stacked in layers from the bottom up (with the branch up and leaves down), in a similar manner to roofing shingles. This layered pattern will help strengthen the structure, and prevent pinhole leaks from forming in the next layer.

The shingle method is useful for many types of shelters, as it strengthens the roof and seals out moisture.

The shingle method is useful in warm or cold climates, as layers strengthen the roof and seal out moisture.

Speaking of the next layer, the previous step is where you would have stopped if you were building an ordinary A-frame shelter—now for the “winter” part. Cover the tree boughs with packed snow, watching for holes and gaps. Finish it off with a door plug to seal out the wind, and don't forget to add an air vent if you plan to build a fire inside.

Snow Trench

Winter Snow Shelters 2

This shelter is exactly what it sounds like. First, you'll dig a ditch or trench into the snow, making it deep enough to lie down in comfortably. Then create a support structure of sticks across the top, and cover with foliage (such as tree boughs or moss) and snow. Plug the doorway, and voila—it's not roomy, but it'll keep you warm.

The Snow Trench method can also be combined with the Tree Pit design, by digging your trench under the snow-covered branches of a nearby tree. The branches act as a pre-made roof, saving you time and effort.

Snow Cave

Winter Snow Shelters 3

This is the most complex and time-consuming shelter to build, but it also provides lots of space, excellent insulation, and even a way to conceal your location. Dig your shelter into a snowy hillside, ensuring there's plenty of snow above your head to prevent a collapse.

You'll also want to create three stepped floor levels. The purpose behind these levels has to do with the fact that cold air naturally sinks, while hot air rises. By building the floor of the chamber below where you're sleeping and working, you'll avoid sitting in a “pool” of cold air that has fallen to the lowest point in the chamber. This makes efficient use of the heat you generate inside the shelter.

Winter shelter mountains

Don't venture outdoors this winter without knowing how to build a simple shelter. It could save your life.

The lowest level is the cold air sump, which is even with the entrance to the shelter. This is where the cold air will collect. Next, you have a working platform, where you can cook and build your fire. Finally, on the top level, you have your sleeping platform, elevated for maximum heat retention while you're asleep.

As with the other shelters, remember to block off the entrance with a solid object (like a backpack or some snow), so the wind doesn't get in. Also, don't forget to poke a small air vent hole at the top, to prevent carbon monoxide from collecting in the shelter and silently poisoning you. It would be a real shame to go to the effort of making this shelter, only to have it become your tomb because you forgot the air vent.

Be safe out there this winter, and if you try building one of these shelters, we want to see it. Tag us on Instagram @recoiloffgridmagazine or post it on our Facebook page.


DIY Emergency Power from a Phone Line

Remember our article on the advantages of landline phones in a disaster scenario? If so, you probably also remember that landline phones receive power through the phone line, and can often stay operational for weeks—even if the rest of the power grid is down. That's because the phone company supplies the power necessary to operate the phone, and will continue to supply power via generators for as long as possible during a disaster.

DIY emergency power phone line

See the red and green wires? Those supply DC power to keep your landline phone operational.

Knowing this, we wondered if it's possible to use this power for anything else, such as keeping a cell phone (or other small USB electronic device) charged. The answer is yes, but it takes a little preparation, tinkering, and wire splicing to make it work.

Emergency phone line power 1

Disclaimer: Be aware that this DIY emergency power source should ONLY be used in legitimate emergencies, as it is highly illegal (as in a felony) to use phone line power for anything but powering a landline phone. This is also potentially dangerous, since you run the risk of shocking yourself or frying your electronic device if something goes wrong. Don't do anything stupid or illegal with this information, and if you do, we are not responsible.

If you'd like to read through the steps in more detail, check out the article on Instructables here. It has some complex-looking wiring diagrams, but the concept is simple: phone cord spliced to a LM7805 voltage regulator, spliced to a USB cable. You can also add a diode to protect your charger if you think anyone might call the phone line.


6 Survival Uses for Tampons

Some of the most ordinary items found at home can be used alternatively for all sorts of life-saving needs. Repurposing everything from cooking oil, snack chips, and even used tea bags can help you get through a tough spot — if you know what to do with them. (See “Household Survival” in OFFGRID's Spring 2014 issue.)

As you can tell by the title of this article, we're about to delve into a household item that some people might be too shy to speak about, let alone buy, stock, and experiment with. Yes, people, we're talking about one particular feminine hygiene product here: the tampon.

In this case, tampons are no laughing matter. Knowing what you can do with them can mean living to fight another day, so listen up. Tampons are made out of blends of cotton and rayon. Cotton and rayon are both absorbent and flammable materials, making them useful for a wide range of survival uses. Tampons come in many variations; most any of them will work for our suggested uses in this story. But for best results, we recommend non-scented ones that come wrapped in plastic.

Rudimentary Filter

tampon-water-bottle-water-filter

Whether you need to filter water for drinking or fuel for your vehicle, the cotton-and-rayon wadding of a tampon makes for a basic yet effective filter. By no means does this method filter biological, chemical, or heavy-metal impurities out of water. Further purification steps will need to be taken to make your water safe to drink. It does, however, filter out a good portion of the larger particles found in water sources so that your other purifying methods — whether by distillation, boiling, tablets, or through another filter — can be more efficient.

If things get really dire out there and you find yourself in a Mad Max situation scouring questionable sources for fuel for your vehicle or electrical generator, make sure your fuel system stays clear of contaminants by filtering your found fuel through a tampon filter first. Contaminants such as sand can put your vehicle or generator out of action, requiring repairs and spare parts. That's trouble you just don't need in a SHTF scenario.

Slow Blood Flow

tampon-and-paracord-improvised-bandage

The most obvious use for tampons is to absorb blood. “Well, duh!” you might say. But you don't need to limit this product to only its original application — it can serve as a temporary wound dressing until proper medical attention can be applied. Unravel it and it can be applied as a pressure bandage with the help of some tape or even paracord. Other improvised applications include stopping nosebleeds and using it as dental gauze. Tampons can also be used in lieu of cleaning pads to help cleanse a dirty wound before dressing it.

Note that tampons are generally clean, but should not be considered fully sterile from a medical standpoint. As soon as purpose-built medical supplies are available, the tampon should be discarded and replaced.

Fire Kindling

tampon-used-as-fire-kindling

Fire is life. So, survival often depends on how quickly and efficiently you can get a fire started. Cotton is probably the most flammable fabric commonly found in household use and rayon is a close second. That's perfect for you since tampons are made of just that mix. As a bonus, if you purchase tampons that come in a plastic wrapper, your kindling will stay dry even if you are drenched.

Take the tampon out of the wrapper and applicator and rip it into a few pieces. Fluff up a piece and use it as your fire's kindling. It will light up quickly, but if you have some hand sanitizer, petroleum jelly, lip balm, or even animal fat, rub a little bit in for even better fire-starting results. Keep the leftover pieces of tampon to help start more fires in the future.

Blister Control

tampon-and-duct-tape-foot-bandage-for-blisters

Blisters form on your feet because of friction between your skin, socks, sweat, and shoes. Oftentimes, ill-fitting shoes or footwear that hasn't been properly broken in will cause blisters to form. When you're humping your bug-out bag to safety, you don't need the added pain and irritation that a blister can bring. A painful blister can cause you to move slower, thereby slowing down your whole party. And there's the added danger of infection if it gets worse.

If you feel one coming on or feel that there's the potential of one forming and you don't have access to proper blister care, cover the sensitive area tightly with a piece of tampon and a Band-Aid or some tape. Keeping yourself mobile is imperative, so shielding your feet from blisters is a must.

Bore Cleaner

tampon-used-as-shot-gun-bore-cleaner

Having a clean, properly functioning firearm for defense is a good idea, especially if it ever hits the fan. Should you find yourself out of cleaning patches, an alternative way of cleaning your firearm is by way of tampon. Most tampons are perfectly sized for 12-gauge shotgun barrels, but smaller wads ripped from the tampon would work for other calibers. Use the tampon as you would a cleaning patch running it through the barrel several times with cleaning and lubricating solution if it is available. Use another piece of tampon to clean out the breech and chamber.

Candlewick

tampon-string-used-as-candlewick

The string attached to tampons makes excellent candlewicks. Perfect for blackout situations, you can fashion a makeshift candle by using anything such as cooking oil, shortening, crayons, and older used-up candles. Make sure to coat the string in your chosen candle fuel to allow the candle to burn more efficiently. Fill a non-flammable, open-top container with the fuel and place the wick into it. Light it and enjoy the slow burn.


Improvised Water Filters – Not a Drop to Drink…

Warning!

This article is meant to be a quick overview on improvised water filtering and not a detailed guide. Techniques, concepts, and photos shown here are for illustrative purposes only. Consuming water of questionable quality is potentially dangerous and you do so at your own risk.

As noted by nearly every outdoor enthusiast and reputable survival teacher, clean drinking water is at or near the top of the priority list. There are many good reasons for this, so we want to help you be able to use and drink whatever H2O you find in an urban or semi-urban environment during a crisis or post-crisis situation.

For the purposes of this story, we'll assume that you've practiced some common sense and found water from a relatively safe source — but you're not 100-percent sure if you should consume it. How do you know if it's safe to drink? Can you cook with it or drink it?

Consuming it straight from the source is definitely not a good idea unless you want the runs, a crippling illness, or worse (see “Germ Warfare” elsewhere in this issue for more on microscopic pathogens). No doubt you'll need to filter the wet stuff…which is easier said than done if life as we know it has crumpled at our feet or gone up in a mushroom cloud. When commercially available filters aren't available, you'll have to roll up your sleeves and improvise.

Filter Materials

When attempting water treatment, you'll need to first filter it through different media to remove most of the particulate matter. Sift out the larger contaminants, then the smaller, then the microscopic. Once that's completed, you'll need to heat or treat the H2O depending on available resources. Therefore, you'll need to obtain some items to repurpose for your DIY water treatment system.

water-filter-materials-pebbles-mask-coffee-filter-cotton-balls-and-tee-shirt

Filter Media: You might not realize it, but there are dozens of everyday items lying around that could be used to filter water. Here are some common examples:

  • T-shirts
  • Towels
  • Stockings
  • Bandanas
  • Pillow stuffing
  • N-95 mask
  • Coffee filters
  • Fridge water filter

You could also use earthly materials, too, like gravel, sand, and charcoal. While they're not as abundant in concrete jungles like New York City (unless you happen to be inside a Home Depot when stuff hits the fan), they're great to use if you can find them.

water-containers

Water Containers: Next, you'll need at least two containers that can hold H2O. Consider any of the following:

  • Plastic soda bottles
  • Milk jugs
  • Buckets
  • Empty bleach bottles

You could even use pots or pans for one of the containers, but plastic works best because you can cut it or poke holes through it as needed.

Filtering Techniques

First Filtering Stage:

cutting-gallon-carton-bottom-off

1. Take a milk jug or large soda bottle, with a cap if possible, and remove the bottom by cutting it off carefully with a sharp knife or scissors.

cutting-small-hole-in-cap

2. If the cap is available, make a hole in it by setting it on a flat surface and placing the tip of a knife on the top of the cap. While carefully holding the cap, twist the knife around while applying pressure until you make a small hole. Once a small hole is in the cap, place it back on the bottle and turn the open side up.

paper-coffee-filter-in-one-gallon-carton

3. Next, place the finest filtering element available, like a coffee filter, an N-95 mask, or tampon (see “Bloody Ingenious” elsewhere in this issue), at the bottom of the container (closest to the cap).

IMPROV: If there's no coffee filter or N-95 mask handy, you can substitute paper towels.

coffee-filter-filled-with-sand-and-gravel

4. Then take the charcoal (if available), smash it into fine pieces, and place it inside the filter material. Cover the charcoal with about 1 inch of sand and cover the sand with about 2 inches of gravel.

IMPROV: Can't find enough gravel, sand, and charcoal? Replace them with cotton balls, cloth, or pillow stuffing.

pouring-water-over-gravel-in-coffee-filter

5. Slowly pour the water you've found into the improvised filtration system so as not to disrupt the filtering elements. This should eliminate most of the sediment or particulate matter and prepare us to move on to the next step of filtration.

Second Filtering Stage:

refrigerator-with-water-filter

1. Many homes have refrigerators with built-in water dispensers. Where there's a water dispenser, there's probably a water filter as well. Usually the filter is either a carbon or ceramic filter — both will work well for our needs. (Coincidentally, most businesses have coffee makers with either an in-line water filter or paper coffee filters.) Find the filter element and remove it. Usually it twists out of its receptacle by spinning it counterclockwise. The best type has a hole in only one end.

hole-in-bucket-for-water-filter

2. You will need two buckets (or some equivalent), one of which you must punch a hole in the bottom. Before you make the hole, identify the size of the threaded portion of the fridge's water filter — then carefully make a hole in the bottom of the bucket that's just slightly smaller than the threads of the filter.

refrigerator-filter-in-water-bucket

3. Once that's done, place the threaded portion of the filter over the hole and, while applying slight downward pressure, turn the filter clockwise, allowing the filter to thread itself into the hole in the bucket. Once this has been completed, take your other bucket (with no hole) and place it beneath the first one to capture the water that comes through the filter.

4. Take the H2O from your first filter setup and pour it into the bucket with the second filter, allowing it to flow through the ceramic or carbon filter into the container below. You have now filtered your questionable liquid twice. It should be fairly clean now, but if it's not clean enough at this point, repeat the process until the water is clear or nearly clear.

Treating or Heating

Once you're satisfied with the clarity of the filtered water, you can now heat it or treat it to be sure it's safe to drink.

bleach-water-treatment-diagram

Chemical Treatment: If you have access to regular household bleach (which you always should), you're in luck. Bleach works great at treating filtered water. It doesn't take much, so go easy. In fact, it takes about only two drops of bleach per quart of water or eight drops per gallon. Remember, a quart is equal to four cups, so a little goes a long way! Bleach kills 99.9 percent of all germs, so it's very handy. Iodine tablets could also serve the same purpose, but household bleach is more versatile.

water-treatment-materials-rag-cans-and-toilet-paper

Heat Treatment: However, if you don't have bleach on hand or want to take it to the next level, you can heat the filtered water to be extra sure it's safe to consume. If you have power or a camp stove, this last step is easy. But if you've just bugged out or are trapped away from home, you'll have to create a stove. For your improvised heating element, consider the following:

  • Medium metal can, e.g. 1-pound coffee can
  • 1-quart paint can (without paint residue)
  • Small soup can
  • Large ceramic coffee mug

Once you've found your desired improvised stove, set it aside. Next grab a roll of toilet paper and pull out the cardboard sleeve in the middle, without unrolling the paper. No, this isn't a magic trick. Grab the cardboard insert with your fingertips while holding the roll and simply pull the tube out of the center. (Save the cardboard for a different use — hey, any item can become a post-apocalyptic commodity if you're creative enough.) Compress the toilet tissue and place it inside the can so it's snug inside. If it won't fit, slowly remove layers of tissue until it does. If toilet paper isn't available, sub in a rolled-up washcloth or hand towel.

water-treatment-materials-cans-rag-and-alcohol

Next, pour denatured alcohol or 91-percent isopropyl alcohol over the tissue or cloth towel and carefully light the improvised stove. Be aware that the flame might be present, but not visible. The alcohol is what burns, and the tissue or cloth serves only as a wick. If you don't have denatured or isopropyl alcohol available, you'll have to use whatever flammable liquid is available.

water-boiling-over-can-fire

Now pour your filtered water into a pot. You can't place the pot directly on top of your improvised stove, as it will restrict oxygen flow and extinguish the flame (a handy trick to remember when you need to safely put out the fire). Instead, position your DIY stove between two stacks of bricks (or empty ammo cans) and make sure they're slightly taller than the stove. Then place the pot atop the bricks. If you're outdoors, especially in the cold, it's important to block out the wind around your improvised stove. It takes much longer to heat the H2O if you don't.

Make sure you heat the water to 160 degrees Fahrenheit, a temperature at which pretty much no germs can survive. (No thermometer, no problem, see the “Temperature Test” sidebar.) Obviously, it's important to let the water cool before attempting to consume it. And always be careful whenever an open flame is present and be cautious of any hot surfaces.

Heat water to 160 degrees Fahrenheit

Conclusion

Lastly, keep containers of powdered drink mix on hand, like Tang, Hi-C, Gatorade, Emergen-C, or hot cocoa. Why? One, it makes pond water taste a lot better, which is more palatable for your kids. Two, it adds electrolytes and potassium to the liquid, keeping you more energized. And, three drinking water alone could flush out necessary minerals if you're not careful, which can be dangerous in a long-term survival situation.

Whether you have a commercially available filter or had to McGyver your own from scavenged parts, filtering water can make all the difference in a crisis event. But it also takes common sense and the right attitude. Don't obtain H2O from places that are clearly contaminated with toxins. Do stay calm and get creative with the resources in your environment. The proper mindset is the most important resource you have. So, stay positive, adapt, and find a solution…or you'll become part of the problem.

Temperature Test

One life-saving fact: Most organisms can't survive in temperatures above 140 degrees, which is especially helpful when heat treating water you've just filtered. But just to be safe, heat it up to 160 degrees. How do you know if the water is 140 or 160 degrees? It's not like you'll have a thermometer in a SHTF scenario.

When the liquid is heating, air bubbles form on the bottom of the pot. At approximately 140 degrees, the first little bubbles break loose from the bottom. The first medium-sized bubbles form and begin to release to the surface at approximately 160 to 170 degrees. This is important to know because on an improvised stove or with limited heating fuels, you might not get your water to a full rolling boil. Once you can count 10 medium-sized bubbles reaching the surface, you can be confident that the water has been properly treated.

Financial Water Planning

You might be wondering, “How can I buy a water filtration system, a self-sustaining garden, and a solar-panel system for when the grid goes down — and still afford to pay the mortgage?” Stop! Those questions are much further down the road and not something you need to worry about yet.

Instead, focus on the survival priorities (food, water, fire, and shelter) and slowly integrate all of them into your lifestyle. For example, this author bought a ceramic water dispenser for about $30. It's the kind that holds 3- or 5-gallon bottles. In order to have enough water on hand for an emergency, he buys cases of 1-gallon bottles at the market. It's usually less than $6 for a case of six 1-gallon bottles — approximately $1 per gallon. He and his family go through about a case per week, so he buys a few cases at a time and marks the date on the sides. He cycles the water so no case is stored for more than 180 days. He adds to the cases by buying one more than he needs each time, until he has about 20 cases on hand. The cases can be stacked on top of each other so they don't take up a lot space, but brings peace of mind knowing there are more than 100 gallons of water available at any given time.

Note: Be careful to purchase water only in clear containers for storage, because the opaque containers aren't designed for water and shouldn't be used if you can avoid it.

Another thing his family did was purchase three 55-gallon drums for water storage. This water can be used for cooking, cleaning, and bathing. He changes the water once a year so it's always fresh enough to drink in an emergency. He changes one drum in the spring, one in the summer and one in the fall so none of them go bad. Also, he adds a ¼ cup of household unscented bleach per 55 gallons to keep the water fresh.

So for less than $200 spread over a span of a few months, you can have a supply of water to sustain your family in a crisis. Remember, you can survive for weeks without food, but only days without water. Get moving and get your water plan into action.

5 Methods of Water Disinfection

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention list five methods for water disinfection.

1. Heat: Once water has been boiled up to 160 degrees Fahrenheit for 1 minute, it's safe to drink after it has cooled.

2. Filter: Filters that are sized between 0.1 and 0.4 microns will remove bacteria, but not viruses from water. Special hollow fiber filters can remove viruses, while reverse osmosis filters remove both bacteria and viruses and can also remove salt from water, handy if you find yourself around seawater.

3. Chemical: Tablets or packets of powder can be used to disinfect water. This method usually combines chemical disinfectants such as chlorine or iodine and may take several hours before all the germs are killed.

4. Ultraviolet Light: Measured doses of UV light are effective in disinfecting small amounts of clear water. Be careful when the water is not clear, as UV light is less effective in cloudy water.

5. Solar Radiation: Water can be disinfected with the solar radiation of sunlight. Fill a clear plastic bottle, lay it on a reflective surface (such as aluminum foil, shiny side up), and let it sit. The water will be safe to drink after at least six hours in bright sunlight. This technique only works with water that is clear, not cloudy.

Source: http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/page/water-disinfection

About The Author:

Jim DeLozier — designer of the Survivor Trucks — is an all-inclusive continuity consultant who helps people prepare for anything and everything. Jim and his team design and build vehicles, structures, and shelters. They also train people in everything from martial arts and long-range precision shooting to power generation and hydroponics/aquaponics.

www.SurvivorTruck.com/consulting/


Flare Gun Etiquette

If you find yourself in trouble and need help on the double, you'll want to make your whereabouts known to anyone nearby. One of the best ways to catch the attention of rescuers is via the glow of an ultra-bright, fiery flare — day or night. When shot up high in the air, aerial flares can broadcast your signal for help to a wide-ranging area. Flare guns are commonly stored onboard boats, other watercraft, and aircraft, as well as carried by people traveling through the wilderness.

Not a Firearm

A flare gun, as its name implies, functions like a gun (although not recognized legally as a firearm in most jurisdictions). Pulling its trigger will draw its hammer back until it releases. The hammer then strikes the flare's detonating cap, which in turn ignites the flare and causes it to fire out of the barrel. Flare guns should be pointed up into the air when fired. Shooting the flare straight up also makes it easier for others to determine your position and maximizes its visibility. Aerial flares can travel 500 feet high when fired directly up, making them powerful enough to be lethal if shot at a person or animal, so use caution and observe gun safety rules when handling one.

Two Are Better Than One

To better facilitate your rescue, the U.S. Coast Guard instructs that when a rescue craft or party is spotted, you should fire two flares in succession, not just one. Two flares allow rescuers to better understand where the flares were launched from.

Aerial Flare Types

There are different types of flares for different situations. White flares are for non-emergency signaling as well as area illumination, while red flares signal an emergency. Be aware that launching red flares when there is not an emergency may be illegal depending on your region. Parachute flares help the flare linger in the air longer than regular aerial flares. They can stay afloat for as much as 30 seconds, giving you a better chance that it is spotted. Another category of flares is SOLAS flares. SOLAS stands for “safety of life at sea,” are more powerful, and are primarily used by vessels sailing the deep ocean.

Use on Land

While not at sea, those traveling across land can use flare guns to signal a need for help as well. In doing so, be careful not to inadvertently cause a fire. Remember that a flare is essentially a flying torch, so when it lands, it is incendiary and can easily light dry brush and foliage.

Stories have surfaced of people using flare guns to scare away wild animals including bears as well. In a pinch, flare guns can provide some impromptu security, but remember that they are dangerous and have the ability to seriously injure or kill — use caution and proper judgment. Before heading out into the great unknown, be sure to check with local authorities about the use and legalities of flare guns in the area you intend on travelling.

Many Emergency Uses

We're fans of having a flare gun around regardless of whether we're camping in the high desert, exploring a swamp, or on a craft 100 miles offshore. You never know if trouble will come looking for you. If you find yourself in a flood sitting on your roof, your boat is going down, or you're awaiting rescue in the bush, you bet you'll want a flare gun to signal for help.

Warning! 12-gauge flares and shotgun shells should never be mixed. Firing either out of non-approved devices is dangerous and can be illegal.

Make & Model

Orion
Bluewater Alert/Locate Signal Kit
Caliber
12-gauge
Color
Orange
MSRP
$140
URL
www.orionsignals.com
Notes
The Bluewater Alert/Locate Signal Kit contains five handheld red signal flares, one handheld orange smoke flare, six 12-gauge red aerial signals that reach an altitude of 500 feet and 12-gauge pistol-style flare launcher with attached flare bandolier. The kit is enclosed in a soft, bright orange, buoyant bag. The flares are U.S. Coast Guard approved for day and night signaling.


AquaPodKit Bathtub Water Storage

We've said it before, and we'll say it again: clean drinking water is absolutely paramount to survival, no matter where you are. Even in an urban environment with clean tap water year round, a natural disaster such as a hurricane, flood, or or earthquake can easily contaminate or disable your running water. You may have a few gallons of bottled water in storage, but that's not going to last you very long. Most people grossly underestimate how much water they use each day.

AquaPodKit water storage 4

A case of bottles may look like a lot of water, but you'd be surprised how fast it gets used up.

So, what can you do to prepare? Well, you may have heard that filling up your bathtub at the first sign of a disaster is a good way to store water, and we don't disagree. However, your bathtub probably isn't squeaky clean at all times, and the exposed water can become contaminated quickly. Ideally, you'll want to contain the water—and a company called AquaPodKit has developed an easy way to do so.

The AquaPodKit is a simple liner and pump setup that includes everything you need to store water in your tub. The food-grade polyethlene liner can hold a maximum of 100 gallons of water, although it's recommended to fill to just below the top of your tub (about 65 gallons for most home tubs). That's enough to support the basic needs of a family of four for up to two weeks.

Here's how it works (skip to 0:55 for the demo):

The AquaPodKit can store clean drinking water for up to 8 weeks, and dispenses it easily thanks to an included siphon pump. The company also now offers an upgraded Water Basics pump and filter, which can be used to remove contaminants and improve taste.

The upgraded pump and filter are sold separately for $29.99, or with a tub liner for $39.99.

The basic water storage kit starts at an MSRP of $24.99, or you can get it with the upgraded Water Basics pump and filter for $39.99. These kits are made in the USA, and are available directly through AquaPodKit's web store, or at various other outdoor retailers.


Brite-Strike Brite-Blade vs. SOG BladeLight Camp – Lighted Knives

As survival-minded readers, you know that tools can be lifesavers. But since you can't roll a six-drawer tool chest with you everywhere, you should have a capable knife and flashlight at the ready at all times.

Knives are one of the most versatile inventions ever. They let us slice, pierce, dig, fight, and even start fires. Flashlights let us see in the dark, signal for help, and double as blunt instruments in a pinch. Having both in hand greatly increases your chances of enduring an emergency — so why not combine them into one tool?

5-brite-strikes-bright-blade-lighted-knife-light-pattern

In an effort to add utility to their tools, some manufacturers are adding lights to their knives. Of course, there's nothing particularly new about combining knives with other tools — after all, the Swiss Army first purchased multitool-style knives for its soldiers way back in 1891. Adding LEDs to knife handles is just the latest in the evolution of the knife. At first glance, it's easy to dismiss these lighted knives as nothing more than marketing gimmicks and consider them inferior to standalone knives and lights. But carrying one tool rather than two isn't such a bad idea. With so much equipment one must have prepared, reducing cargo weight while increasing functionality is a plus.

So, is a lighted knife just as good as its dedicated counterparts? Clearly, a more detailed inspection is required. So, in our premiere edition of Hands On, we shine the spotlight (pun intended) on Brite-Strike's Brite-Blade and SOG's BladeLight Camp. Read on to find out if they're a good fit for your preparedness plans.

Brite-Strike's – Brite-Blade

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411: Featuring replaceable LED lights, the multi-featured Brite-Blade is specifically made to handle diverse survival situations. It includes a 3.5-inch blade, carbide window punch, a seatbelt and line cutter that doubles as a wire stripper, and a fire starter-striking tool. Its body is made of 6061 hard-anodized aluminum and has a slot just above the blade for one of two included mini LED flashlights (one white, one red) to adhere to. At the base of the mini LED lights are magnets that allow them to not only be retained in the body's light slot, but also on any ferrous metal, such as iron and steel. The mini flashlight units are interchangeable and rated at 45 lumens each. To power the light on, it must be removed from the knife and its head twisted until it turns on, then replaced back into the knife's body.

3-brite-strikes-bright-blade-lighted-knife

With the light being positioned just above the blade, shadows are cast from the blade depending on what angle the knife is being employed. Most chopping and slicing maneuvers will create a dark enough shadow to make it cumbersome to use. The good news is that head-on stabbing and jabbing angles are affected less by the shadow of the blade. (At least you can see what you are stabbing.) Since the light is removable, you can conceivably remove it and reposition it to cover the area you need to see — even on the blade itself. The two lights are small and not meant for any meaningful use at distance, but are serviceable in your immediate workspace.

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The knife has many features we like seeing in a folder, including the use of 440C stainless steel for its blade, an interchangeable full-length spring steel pocket clip, and spring-assisted opening mechanism. The blade stayed straight no matter what angle we used it at, even under full body weight. The model we received for this review has a combination blade with nice serrations, though a full straight-edge version is also available. The blade is quickly deployed with a flick of the thumb and kept in place with a stainless steel liner lock.

Verdict: The Brite-Blade is a solid-feeling folder that incorporates a few survival-themed features that we really like, such as a removable fire-starter striking tool and robust window punch. As competent as the knife is, we feel that the flashlight portion of this combination was not as strong — surprising since it comes from Brite-Strike, which is primarily a maker of tactical illumination products. All in all, it's a very capable knife with a light that you can use in a pinch. We look forward to seeing what innovations the next generation of lighted knives will bring.4-brite-strikes-bright-blade-lighted-knife

Make & Model
Brite-Strike Brite-Blade

Overall Length
8.6 in. (open); 5.1 in. (closed)

Blade Length
3.5 in.

Blade Material
440C stainless steel

Weight
5.35 oz. (with batteries)

Battery
LR621 (eight, included)

Runtime
Unlisted

MSRP
$150

URL
www.brite-strike.com

SOG Specialty Knives & Tools – BladeLight Camp

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411: The BladeLight Camp is one model in a full line of illuminated knives offered by SOG. Designed with campers and outdoor enthusiasts in mind, the BladeLight Camp features six bright LED lights and a satin-polished 4.5-inch stainless-steel fixed blade. With three LEDs mounted on either side of the blade, the lights combine for an output of 30 lumens. That's enough illumination to light up a small workspace or the path in front of you. We found the positioning of lights on both sides of the blade allow for shadowless, uninterrupted light to shine out to an effective distance of 20 to 25 feet. Its real strength is within the confined workspace of 2 to 3 feet however. The light's color is white bordering on bluish-white and isn't harsh on the eyes, even when being used close up in the dark.

The knife is securely stored in a hard nylon sheath that has an integrated blade sharpener and metal belt clip. It has slots that allow the six LEDs to shine through it so you don't need to point your unsheathed knife at whatever you wish to light up. The lights are powered by one AAA battery and are activated by a rubberized push-button switch in the butt of its glass-reinforced nylon handle. Those with sausage fingers might find the handle a bit small for their liking, but its slightly grippy rubber texture does make it easier to maintain a good grip.

2-sog-bladelight-camp-lighted-knife

The BladeLight Camp measures a length of 9.2 inches overall and weighs a paltry 4.3 ounces. The blade is made of 8Cr13MoV, a made-in-China stainless steel that's commonly used to help balance price with performance. We observed no flexing even with our full weight on it while cutting into different materials and at different angles. The blade looks and feels capable and should offer problem-free usage.

Verdict: After spending an extended period of time with the BladeLight Camp, we see why SOG made efforts into creating a line of light-capable knives. Being able to light up what you are cutting, slicing, or prying is a definite bonus when you only have two hands to work with while in the dark. Sure, it's easy to say that you wouldn't need a lighted knife if you were wearing a headlamp, but let's face it, we don't always have the right tools for the right job available to us at all times. A lighted knife takes two tools and combines them into a single useful package. Granted, the knife's light is just enough to work with and isn't a replacement for a dedicated flashlight by any stretch of the imagination. You'll still want a “real” flashlight when you really need to see what's lurking in the dark. But if we had a choice between a knife that can help light up the night and not, we'd choose this one for its added capability.

1-sog-bladelight-camp-lighted-knife

Make & Model
SOG BladeLight Camp

Overall Length
9.2 in.

Blade Length
4.5 in.

Blade Material
8Cr13MoV stainless steel

Weight
4.9 oz.

Battery
AAA (included)

Runtime
84 mins.

MSRP
$92

URL
www.sogknives.com