Unconventional Survival Tool: the Pencil Sharpener

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Sometimes, the most useful survival tools are the most often overlooked. Few of us would see an ordinary pencil sharpener and think it could be used for anything but sharpening pencils—after all, its purpose is right there in the name. However, after seeing this video from SensiblePrepper, we’ll think twice before discarding one of these tiny tools.

Inserting a pencil into a sharpener and twisting produces perfect spirals of tinder material, and it sure beats whittling away wood shavings with a knife. Using the graphite as a lubricant is an added bonus, and when you’re done, you’ve got a fresh writing instrument. Nothing goes to waste—we like that. Maybe the humble pencil sharpener is worth including in a bug-out bag after all.

Infographic: Auto Theft Facts

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If you’re planning to bug out when SHTF, you’re going to need reliable transportation, and for many of us that means a car or truck. However, in the chaos that ensues during a major disaster, car theft is a major threat.

This infographic from Autoblog provides some basic statistics on auto theft in the United States, and can help you gauge your risk ahead of time. Some of this may seem like common sense—of course you should keep your car locked and hide your valuables—but the fact that theft is statistically more likely in a garage than a back alley is surprising.

Check out the graphic below, and remember to consider the likelihood of auto theft while forming a bug-out plan.

Auto Theft Facts
[Source: Auto Insurance for Autoblog.com]

Dakota Fire Pit

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USMC Dakota Fire Pit diagram

At face value, starting a fire is about as simple as it gets. Throw some wood, a little tinder, and a few sparks together in dry conditions, and you’re all set. No need to over-complicate it, right? Well, not necessarily. This age-old process has plenty of room for improvement, and the Dakota Fire Pit is one of the most effective upgrades to a traditional campfire.

As taught in the USMC Survival, Evasion, and Recovery manual, the Dakota Fire Pit uses an underground cavity to create an efficient and concealable fire source. It draws in air through an inlet, and focuses the heat upward so minimal energy (and firewood) is wasted. Constructing this type of fire pit is certainly more difficult than an above-ground campfire, but may be worth the effort if you’re planning to remain at your camp for several days.

For more information on how and when to build a Dakota Fire Hole, you can refer to this article from Ron Fontaine at Survival Topics.

Video: Bug-Out Bag Variations

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The contents of an ideal bug-out bag are often hotly debated, and rarely agreed upon. Although there’s no set formula for a successful B.O.B, it’s always good to observe other survivalists’ setups in order to come up with ideas and compare your kits.

The guys over at The Bullet Points on YouTube have a helpful video series that walks through several different approaches to building a bug-out bag. Each of the three hosts breaks down his bag and its contents in the first two videos, and then they do some real-world testing of the bags in the third video. Check out the videos below, and consider possible modifications to your B.O.B.—it should always be evolving and improving, after all.

Improvised Light Sources

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In an emergency, it’s always a good idea to have backup plans for your backup plans. Sure, you may have a handful of flashlights, lighters, matches, or even fancy scented candles around the house, but what happens if the power is out for weeks and you run out of dependable light sources?

In the video below, YouTube user DaveHax demonstrates five ingenious improvised light sources that can be made with household items. We’re especially fond of the tuna can method—a candle AND a healthy snack. The other methods vary between somewhat useful and totally out there, but it's worth checking out.

Do you have any methods for improvised light sources using household items? If so, tell us in the comments below.

Infographic: The Devil’s Greenhouse – A Collection of the Most Poisonous Flowers

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Warning! This article is meant to be a quick overview and not a detailed guide on poisonous flowers. Eating certain plants could lead to serious illness and even death. To learn more, consult with a reputable instructor or trained botanist.

Bright and colorful fruits and berries attract our attention just as much as vibrant poisonous flowers. Since humans have been foraging for naturally-occurring food sources since the dawn of our species, knowing which ones are safe and which are toxic is of the utmost importance. While this quest has revealed countless nutritious and medicinally useful plant varieties, it has also revealed a number of deadly species. As a survivalist, it’s important to be aware of the poisonous plants in your area, so you can recognize and avoid them in the wild.

This helpful infographic from Ava’s Flowers outlines some of the world’s deadliest flowering plants, as well as where to find them. If you resort to foraging in a survival situation, you’ll certainly want to avoid everything on this list—and as always, if you’re not positive what species a plant is, it’s best not to consume it and find out the hard way.

An infographic describing many of the worlds most poisonous flowers.

It should be reiterated that just reading this infographic will not make you an expert on identifying poisonous flowers. Only by training with an expert will you be able to safely spot something that could be dangerous to interact with, or fatally toxic. But this will give you a better sense of awareness when the next time you think about reaching for that beautifully colored, or pleasantly fragrant flower.

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Dehydration

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There's a saying flowing around that states, “If you're not peeing a lot, you're not drinking enough water.” While this statement might not be completely accurate, it does act as a good reminder to drink more water.

Dehydration occurs when your body loses more fluids than is replenished. This can happen in many ways, such as sweating during exercise or simply being in hot climates. Other causes include diarrhea, vomiting, fever, and urination.

To prevent dehydration, monitor your fluid intake. Avoid alcohol or drinks with caffeine, like colas, tea, and coffee. Drink clear liquids (water, broth, or sports drinks). A prevailing tip is to drink eight cups of H20 daily, but that amount varies depending on your body type, where you live, and how active you are. The rule of thumb is that you should drink enough fluid so that you seldom feel thirsty and produce at least 1.5 liters of colorless or light yellow urine a day.

*This information is for reference only. For more detailed information regarding symptoms and prevention, seek professional medical advice.

Mild to Moderate Dehydration Symptoms
– Dizziness Lightheadedness
– Drowsy or fatigued
– Headache
– Few or no tears
– when crying
– Thirst
– Dry, sticky mouth
– Dry skin
– Decreased urination
– Constipation

Facts
– 75% of Americans are chronically dehydrated
– Lack of water is the No. 1 trigger of daytime fatigue
– 37 percent of Americans mistake thirst for hunger
– Skip the old “eight cups of water per day” rule. Research now indicates that in most cases healthy adults can use thirst to determine their fluid intake needs.

Severe Dehydration Symptoms
– Irritability or confusion
– Fever
– Delirium or unconsciousness
– Sunken eyes
– No tears when crying
– Extreme thirst
– Dry mouth and mucous membranes
– Shriveled and dry skin
– Low blood pressure
– Rapid heartbeat
– Rapid breathing
– Little or no urination
– Darker than normal urine

Danger! Seek Medical Attention If:
– Irritable or disoriented and much sleepier or less active than usual
– Can't keep down fluids
– Severe diarrhea, with or without vomiting or fever
– Bloody or black stool
– Moderate diarrhea for 24 hours or more

Sources

Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
www.cdc.gov

State of Idaho Panhandle Health District
www.phd1.idaho.gov

Mayo Clinic
www.mayoclinic.org

Bug-Out Kayak

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Come hell or high water, your best bet for slipping past urban threats with that 90-pound bug-out pack might just be a bug-out ‘yak (BOY). Swift and wickedly silent, these low-signature kayaks are capable of carrying you plus your weight's worth in gear for days, all while vanishing without a trace. If you're not practicing your escaping or scouting with these shallow running craft, then your foolproof evacuation route is already landlocked — and for allowing that planning blind spot, fellow traveler, you deserve a good paddling.

Paddled solo, in tandem, or possibly strung together like a caravan of pack mules, BOYs bridge the water-surface mobility gap, serving as your conduit to safety when vehicles halt and roadways are impassable. To paraphrase an old saying, do not get caught up SHTF creek without a paddle.

Unlike larger craft (see OFFGRID's Summer 2014 issue for more on water vessels), the ‘yak is man portable, capable of launching over rocks or a sea wall — especially with portage wheels (think two-wheeled dolly). No fossil fuels needed, and no engine to flood. No batteries, license, insurance, or registration. And there are few if any moving parts to maintain or corrode. Your BOY may be pre-staged at your home and camp, or strapped to your roof rack and locked with a bicycle cable, a torpedo-shaped plastic storage pod packed with gear below deck. A kayak can lead to a limitless source of drinking water, help you identify or scout for potential dangers, and be used for fishing or food gathering.

Types of ‘Yaks

The recent BOY concept springs from the national explosion in recreational kayaking. These tough, accessible, and affordable reinforced polyethylene boats range from 12 to 16 feet or so. They're suitable for all ages, abilities, and family members. Recreational kayaks are generally divided into two styles: “sit-inside” open cockpit and “sit-on-top” seats that are molded into a decked or closed hull. Both have built-in floatation and some storage.

Our preference is the sit-on-tops by Confluence Outdoors with a fully enclosed deck, camo colors, and gasket-sealed storage hatches. When equipped with a flip-down rudder system, the foot pedals become our steering mechanism, helping the kayak track and preventing us from wasting energy on corrective paddle strokes while heading into the wind or the current. Gunwale rail system fittings hold adjustable tie-downs for customizing locations of additional dry storage bags, fishing-rod holders, anchor lines, and electronics.

bug-out-kayaks-

With the hatches latched closed, the sit-on-top enclosed deck adds seaworthiness to the boat during rough waters and storms. These kayaks are self-bailing when punching through storms or waves because rain and water drains through built-in scuppers, a feature sit-inside boats lack in open waters.

Regarding carrying capacity, one 16-foot kayak classic, quiet hull Wilderness Systems Tarpon 160 we evaluated is rated for 375 pounds of load-out including the paddler. The stout Confluence Ride 13.5 model was rated for 550 pounds of capacity including paddler.

Pack Mules on Water

To see if the BOY concept would work for wives and kids, we recently gave a petite female friend some conditional paddling instructions and sent her on her way. She carried 100 pounds of gear balanced on her kayak for a few miles without undue strain. Trading her hiking staff for a double-bladed paddle, she was able to conserve her energy over several hours by resting and drifting between paddle strokes. Trying to carry that same load in a backpack on land would have crushed her within 100 paces. Yet, in her ‘yak she still had strong legs at the end of the day.

You can fit a surprising amount of gear on a kayak.

You can fit a surprising amount of gear on a kayak.

To paddle efficiently, one can trim one's ‘yak by adjusting the load fore and aft. The BOY offers recreational fitness paddling for your family and team members, but only if you load it properly. Build endurance and trust during trial runs near your home. Gauge your pace and shake down your gear along the way, putting into practice the theory of navigational chart and compass. Plot those courses on your handheld GPS unit, adding miles to your daily paddles at a walking pace.

Squared-away BOY watermen learn basic paddle strokes necessary to move the boat efficiently and without wasted motion. Work on the forward, reverse, and sweep strokes, as well as simple bracing or sculling moves. Practice draw strokes and rudder strokes to help build your confidence with a fully loaded kayak in open waters, tidal flows, and river currents. Find a coach and practice rescues. You may be the one called upon to go after an overboard team member, or to evacuate a child, relative, or pet using the kayak as a waterborne stretcher.

Below: For a waterborne escape plan, you'll need to do research and practice long before any impending emergency...and you'll need the right gear to help you navigate.

Below: For a waterborne escape plan, you'll need to do research and practice long before any impending...

Alternative Escape Route

In the United States, flooding remains one of the leading causes of weather-related deaths. Surviving extreme urban flooding may depend on your temporary access to kayaks pre-staged at home or on your vehicle with your family load out, combined with a specialized knowledge and practiced skillset to recognize the need to escape structures and navigate only those routes when safe to do so.

But even if it's not floodwaters contaminated with fuel, sewage, and debris, a disaster can still drive widespread chaos. With a population dependent upon prescribed paths, waves of panicked people following their on-grid mentality will guarantee gridlock on streets and highways. As order rapidly breaks down, roving predator packs will recognize these chokepoints as ambush points to attack the immobile stragglers. Add blackouts, rioting and looting, fuel shortages, and communication breakdowns, and all bets are off.

In hard times, disconnecting from the grid may require reconnecting with the water. A kayak can provide a way out of danger when your car or even your bug-out truck can't. However, the safest distance between two points is not always the straightest.

Revisit your bug-out route, focusing on the blue lines that radiate outward toward your safe zones. Like the third plane on a three-dimensional chessboard, there exists within our innermost cityscapes a serpentine labyrinth of water. Search for those little feeder creeks, bayous, sloughs, tributaries, and natural or man-altered drainage channels. Identity the intersections of roads and rivers near your home, business, or remote safety site. These are your BOY's on- and off-ramps. Once your home waters are mapped, plotted, and explored, your kayak becomes a rogue chess piece free from the confining black-and-white grid of asphalt and concrete.

Ninja Mode of Transport

Post-hurricane hostilities might require you to temporarily abandon your home or vehicle to adopt a defensive posture. A BOY provides an effective means of escape and evasion. After all, a ‘yak leaves no tracks, gives off zero emissions, and is a tad quieter than a Hummer.

And unlike trekking on foot ('cause you're certainly not driving to safety), this type of boat allows you to pass through urban waterways with the ability to both quickly access and conceal any manner of long-gun, considered the ultimate tool for repelling plastic-boat pirates. Tandem paddle teams can place a scout bow-gunner or tail-gunner outside your pack of paddlers, presenting a low-profile lethal combo.

But to stay discreet on the water, you'll have to train. Practice hand signals with your family and friends. Do not give away your silent advantage by excessively talking because sound carries over water. If your party must rest, look for those side feeder creeks that offer a detour off the main water body, bay, lake, or river system.

Unlike a large RV or SUV, kayaks are effective at escape and evasion. They're relatively quiet, leave no tracks, and emit zero emissions.

Unlike a large RV or SUV, kayaks are effective at escape and evasion. They're relatively quiet, leave no tracks,...

Of utmost importance is your paddle selection. Do not scrimp or allow this to become an afterthought. Cry once. Reach for the advanced composite paddles, such as the Adventure Technology Fishstix with adjustable length and angle, and woodland camo pattern. This paddle combines a bent shaft to reduce wrist strain and a feathery buoyant blade with serious bite. Let it become a part of you.

Once you've escaped the initial flooding or the resultant urban chaos, you can then take a stand on the high ground, hunker down until conditions improve, move to your next strongpoint, or return home. Like some of the best survival equipment, bug-out ‘yaks come with this simple instruction: Just add water.

bug-out-kayaks-

A Brief History of Kayak Action

– “Kayak” comes from the Inuit word “qayak,” a 2,000-year-old term for “hunter's boat.” These early kayaks consisted of natural skins stretched over wood and bone frames.

– The World War II “canoe commandoes” of the British Royal Marines were immortalized in the 1955 British movie The Cockleshell Heroes, which is a fictionalization of their heroic raid on German ships in Nazi-occupied France.

– You'll find a faded black-and-white photo of two kayakers at the U.S. Navy UDT-SEAL Museum in Fort Pierce, Florida, serving as a reminder that not all surveillance missions take place in inflatable rafts.

– Medal of Honor recipient Thomas R. Norris is responsible for one of the most famous paddle missions ever while serving as a SEAL in Vietnam. When American airmen were downed over hostile territory, Norris and his South Vietnamese counterpart were able to rescue two pilots behind enemy lines on two separate nights by disguising themselves as local fishermen and paddling a sampan.

– Today, modern troops train using kayaks like the German Klepper faltboote (folding boat), which are formed by tautly fitting tough, coated fabric over wood and composite frames that are capable of deploying from a backpack. These kayaks feature airtight sponsons to remain afloat and below radar with low acoustic and thermal signatures. Even in the age of drone strikes, today's elite warriors still employ paddle strokes to conduct surveillance.

Waterproof Rigging

Saltwater destroys. It's ridiculously corrosive to steel and strips away at pretty much anything it touches. Even freshwater may be contaminated. So you have to waterproof your gear if you've chosen a bug-out kayak as your means of evacuation.

bug-out-kayaks-waterproof-rigging

The key to waterproof rigging is breaking down your load by group and individually encasing essential components, then compartmentalizing each group in cases like a small Pelican hard case. For an amazingly watertight barrier and a silent-running approach, nothing surpasses the versatility of the line of Watershed Bags by Drybags. To handily secure that 12-gauge shotgun on deck and out of sight, go with the Watershed “Torpedo” case. Trim the boat for silent running with three or more duffels, backpacks, maritime survival bags, or the complete SOF backpacks (standard issue for U.S. Navy SEALs).

Encase heavily lubricated firearms separately from ammo. Outfit vulnerable electrical and optical pieces, illumination tools, cameras, batteries, power sources, and communications gear. Bag sub-groups, including licenses, documents, tools, and medical kit and prescriptions. Strap securely to the deck or stow below, but never trust even gasketed hatches to provide a watertight seal.

You've Bugged Out… Now What?

Sea kayakers can cover marathon distances in hours under flat-water conditions. When paddling a fully loaded bug-out ‘yak (BOY), avoid strain, injuries, and detection by maintaining a steady but quiet stroke, gliding at a walking pace, paddling a few miles per hour until you reach your first waypoint en route to base camp.

bug-out-kayaks-tent

Ideally, you should try to reach high ground carrying a military-quality solo tent and rain fly like the Raider by Catoma. Weighing less than 2 pounds, these wonders are pure shelter, especially when combined with a lightweight sleeping bag like the Elite Survival Systems Recon II. At a minimum, the orange miniature space blanket sleeping bag and glow-worm SOL tent will work, even if highly visible.

To lay low during day or night, pull the kayak completely clear of the waters and bring it right into camp, anchor, paddle and all, so it will be there in the morning (or night) if flood waters and pirates follow you. Erase your trace, smoothing any ‘yak drag marks in the dirt or mud that points the way to your camp. This is more secure than blowing the hatches and flotation to weigh and tie down your boat, completely submerging your kayak at the water's edge, and a lot less trouble.

bug-out-kayaks-hunting

For temporary or late night rests during still-water stages, the BOYs are stable enough to be lashed together and cross decked with paddles, enabling small teams to stretch out at anchor for temporary shuteye. For overnight stays in standing water, two kayaks lashed side by side and cross-decked with scavenged planking make it possible with practice to erect self-supporting solo or two-man tents with rain fly.

When the all clear comes through your VHF, the “approach with caution rule” applies while paddling back to urban areas. Be prepared to portage your boat with the two-wheeled dolly you stashed at your launch point. Return super early during non-curfew hours, moving smoothly, swiftly, and decisively with photo I.D., a strong flashlight, concealed pistol, and paddle to re-stake your claim to your home…or to ‘yak back to safety.

Bug-Out ‘Yak Gear Checklist

Having the right kit in a time of crisis can mean the difference between survival and starvation (or worse yet, a victimization by violent raiders). On a watercraft, having the right gear becomes even more important. Our author lists numerous options for what to pack in a bug-out kayak as a means to both inspire and inform those of you who are eyeing an aquatic evacuation plan.

– Aquatic Gear: 4mm Blue Line, folding sail, V-mast, 12-gauge flare pistol, handheld flares, nautical charts, scale, solar calculator, anchor, lines, throwable buoy, plus sea anchor, double-bladed two-piece paddle on leash, spare paddle, snorkel, mask, fins, pole spear, and Hawaiian Sling

– Illumination: SureFire Maximus headlight, Petzl IR strobe, chem lights

– Navigation: Garmin Foretrex 401 GPS and spare Garmin 78sc, batteries, Ritchie Compass and spare

bug-out-kayaks-emergency-supplies

– Communications: Horizon VHF handheld, GPS-enabled radio, emergency locator beacon, Spot phone

– Safety Gear: Flotation vest and whistle with Benchmade safety hook strap cutter

– Eye Protection: Polarized Wiley X sunglasses, Full Rx Wiley X Goggles

– Storage: CamelBak Linchpin hydration pack, YETI Roadie Cooler for medicine

– Tactical Gear: FirstSpear chest rig (with suppressor, MUT, SS KABAR, Dark Angel Kit, waterproofed, Medical Kit Below, medicine, stamps, documents, etc.)

– Clothing: Full MultiCam outer wear, boonie, two-piece storm suit and weather protective clothing, hat, gloves, face cover

bug-out-kayaks-weapons

– Footwear: Danner USMC boots, Altama Jungle Boots

– Weapons Gear: Spare magazines, cleaning kit, weapon-light batteries, ammo, Elite Bandolier, bow, arrows

– Shotgun: Remington 870 Marine Magnum, Stoeger 12-gauge Coach, Snake Charmer

– Rifle: Colt AR-15, Ruger 10/22 SS takedown, .177-cal. air rifle

– Pistols: SIG SAUER P556 SWAT Pistol, SIG SAUER P226 Navy 9mm, Glock 19

bug-out-kayaks-handguns

– Electronics: Mobile phone, camera, crank charger, solar panel

– Fishing & Gathering: Cuban yo-yo, light trolling rods, tackle, cast net, bait seine, spool line, hooks, sinkers

– Cooking: Coleman Peak stove, grill, skewer

– Toiletries: laundry soap, hand soap, ChapStick, cleaning solution, eye drops

– Camping Gear: Tent, rain fly, ground cloth, bug spray, repellent, bug suit, hanging head net, gloves

bug-out-kayaks-shotgun

– Tools: Binoculars, Zeiss Monocular, Casio G-Shock watch, Stainless steel sternum Spartan Blades knife, Glock folding shovel, machete, KABAR
Kukri, Swiss Army Knife, pliers, filet knife, snares, fire-starter sticks, fuel, signal mirror

– Water Management: Katadyn Vario Water filter, stainless cup, canteen

– Admin: Cash, weather writing pads, pens

bug-out-kayaks-tools

– Repair: Steel cable, plastic tubing (kayak repairs/spares)

– Personal Items: Flask, Siesta Key Honey Spiced Rum, Zippo, cigars

bug-out-kayaks-rifles

About The Author:
Bayou-born and hurricane-raised on the Texas Gulf, David H. Martin operates both Yippee Kayak Fishing (conservation-based angling instruction) and Myakka Kayaka (guided paddle tours) in Southwest Florida. He's also a NRA-certified firearms instructor and chief range safety officer, specializing in advanced defensive pistol, shotgun, and rifle. For more information, go to www.yippeekayakfishing.com.

MacGyver-Level Pyro

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Disclaimer: This article is meant to be a quick overview and not a detailed guide. There are inherent risks when starting a fire — especially when doing so unconventionally. We encourage you to enroll in a course from a reputable instructor or agency and adhere to wildfire-prevention techniques at all times.

Fire — it can be both our salvation and our destroyer. As humans, we share a primal link with fire. Perhaps early man looked upon the smoldering aftermath of a lightning strike with rousing curiosity or ran away in sheer panic as a towering wall of flames swept across a forest. How many generations did it take for them to be able to replicate fire and then learn to control it, respect it, and finally benefit from its many qualities?

Half a million years or so later (depending on your math), the ability to start and maintain a fire, like our ancestors, is mostly lost on modern man — what with matches, lighters, flares, and ignition stoves. However, somewhere deep in the recesses of our brains remains our attraction to the magnetic powers of a campfire. Its flames can evoke haunting stories, deep discussions, and jocular camaraderie. Sitting around the fire, we get back to basics. No jobs, no smartphones, no office commute — just homo sapiens harkening back to a time when fear, hunger, and pain guided us to our most essential needs. That time could return more easily than you think. A massive solar flare, an electromagnetic pulse attack, or a nuclear holocaust could easily destroy our way of life and force us to live like cavemen.

Fortunately, there's a big handful of ways to start a fire without matches, a lighter…or even a magnesium stick. Some methods described here are easy, while others take practice, patience, and perseverance. The materials used in these examples are not ideal, but instead are used to show how you'll have to do your best MacGyver impersonation to adapt in a given survival situation. Because, after all, you'll have to make do with what you packed in your go-bag or can scavenge around you, which is reason enough to learn more than one way to start a fire.

In general, fire needs air, fuel, and heat to start. However, since air and fuel are abundant in most situations, finding something that can translate a source of energy into roughly 450 degrees of heat can be a challenge. Fire-starters like these come in three basic categories: reflection/convection, combustion, and friction.

A small collection of common items one could employ to help start a fire.

A small collection of common items one could employ to help start a fire.

The Reflectors

Most of the easy ways to start a fire merely use the energy of the sun by focusing its light into a small pinpoint. If 4 or 5 square inches of the sun's rays can be focused down to about an 1?8-inch diameter of white hot light, most anything will burn.

Method 1 Magnifying Glass
Difficulty Level Novice

fire-starting-methods-magnifying-glass

The convex lens has been used as a magnifier since at least the era of Aristophanes. And as any sociopathic delinquent knows, a magnifying glass is an easy way to roast ants on a hot summer's day. Similar to the survivor's friend, the Fresnel lens (originally designed to increase lighthouse efficiency), a magnifying glass concentrates light from the sun on a compact point, which easily ignites. Using a convex lens of any kind will start a fire with dry tinder in seconds. Simply point and light.

Method 2 Water Balloon/Water Bottle
Difficulty Level Advanced

fire-starting-methods-water-balloon-method

fire-starting-methods-water-bottle-method

In about 60 A.D., Pliny the Elder described how glass balls filled with water could set clothes on fire when placed in line with the sun. The concept of filling a water balloon or condom (finally you'll have a use for one, right?) with water and holding it in the proper position to focus the sun's beams onto some dry leaves is a skill reserved for the utterly patient. It took four days' worth of attempts to get small wisps of smoke from either the bag of water or the water bottle, but fire was still illusive. Also consider using discarded beer bottles — the clearer and cleaner the glass and water, the better the results.

Method 3 Reading Glasses
Difficulty Level Novice

fire-starting-methods-reading-glasses-method

Are you farsighted? If so, you're in luck, as your glasses can be used to start a fire; however, ironically, you'll need some water to do so. The difference between a magnifying glass and your reading glasses is that the converging lenses of glasses for farsightedness bend the light toward a focal point — but only in one direction. A magnifying glass is biconvex, meaning it bends the light once it enters the lens and again when it leaves. Regular glasses aren't powerful enough to start a fire on their own, so to increase the power of your glasses, add a drop of water to the inside of the lens. This will turn your regular glasses into a biconvex lens. Find the focal point similar to how you would with a magnifying glass. If your glasses are expendable, put both lenses together to create a compound lens — for twice the power!

Method 4 Soda Can and Chocolate Bar
Difficulty Level MacGyver

fire-starting-methods-soda-can-and-chocolate-bar-method

fire-starting-methods-soda-can-and-chocolate-bar-method

fire-starting-methods-soda-can-and-chocolate-bar-method

The worst thing about people is that they throw trash everywhere, but the best thing about people when you're looking to make something out of nothing is that they throw trash everywhere. In this case, hopefully, you'll come across an old soda can and some chocolate (even some melted to the wrapper will do), and you're desperate enough to give it a try. It takes about an hour, but rub some chocolate on the bottom of the can (toothpaste works great, too, as does steel wool — see method 6) and use a rag or the candy wrapper to polish the can bottom to a mirror shine. You know you're done when you can clearly see your face in the can. Aim the “bowl” toward the sun so that the focal point is directly on the tinder and after a few moments, you'll have fire.

Method 5 Ice Disc
Difficulty Level MacGyver

fire-starting-methods-ice-disc-method

fire-starting-methods-ice-disc-method

The last thing you think you're going to find in a frozen wasteland is something that can help start a fire, and in the middle of a summer Californian drought, a frozen wasteland is difficult to replicate on camera (as awesome as the editorial staff is). But if you happen to be in subzero conditions this fall or winter, look for a disc of ice approximately 3 or 4 inches in diameter and about 2 inches thick at the center — but it has to be crystal-clear ice, the kind of ice made from pure water, not fancy bottled water, not tap water, and not boiled water. You need frozen natural spring water. Despite our efforts, we could not replicate clear ice without contaminants frozen inside, which is why our ice discs were better sunglasses than convex lenses. That said, if you're able to carve a suitable disc of clear ice into a convex shape (think flying saucer), you just might be able to use it to make fire. Many winter survival experts have.

The Combustors

Sometimes sunlight is a difficult thing to obtain, and you can't very well sit around on a cloudy or rainy day and wait for the sun to show up. You'll have to find another way to start a fire (after all, on cloudy and rainy days, you'll need fire the most).

Method 6 Battery and Steel Wool
Difficulty Level Novice

fire-starting-methods-bettery-and-steel-wool-method

The principle applied here is electrical, as the energy stored in the battery (in this case, a 9-volt battery) is more than enough to start a fire when short circuited by the steel wool. The great thing about a 9-volt battery is that it's compact, fairly powerful, and has adjacent terminals. Use fine steel wool, as the coarser wool requires more energy to get hot. Merely touch the steel wool to the battery terminals and it will spark immediately as the battery overloads the strands of wool. Have a bundle of tinder available to transfer that spark.

Method 7 Gun Powder
Difficulty Level Advanced

fire-starting-methods-gun-powder-method

fire-starting-methods-gun-powder-method

You're never really without a way to start a fire if you have a live round in your pack. The ubiquitous Winchester .30-30, in this case, holds 1.9 grams of gun powder, which is easy to get to in a pinch (of course, you can use any unexpended cartridge). With a couple of pliers, pulling off the bullet is done easily, exposing a case full of combustible propellant. (Despite the popular misuse of the term, a “bullet” is just the projectile component of a round and not the entire round itself.) Pour out the powder and ignite it using almost all of the methods presented in this story. Make sure to bed your propellant in a pile of tinder, as it flares up quickly once ignited.

The Rubbers

The old adage is true: If you want to start a fire, just rub two sticks together. Heat leads to fire, and a great source of heat is friction, as first explained by Leonardo da Vinci. Of course, it's more efficient to use more advanced methods if you have the means, but sometimes branches might be all you have access to.

Method 8 Rope Rubbing
Difficulty Level Advanced

fire-starting-methods-rope-rubbing-method

fire-starting-methods-rope-rubbing-method

If you're feeling limber and you frequent the rowing machine at the gym, then getting over the painful awkwardness of this method will be easy for you. To add suspense in a pirate movie, there's always a shot of a capstan where a length of smoking rope is frantically being pulled through. Aiming for similar results, wrap a piece of rope around a stick sitting in tinder and pull the rope back and forth like you're trying to saw the stick in half. Use your feet as leverage and give yourself a solid 30 minutes to get enough heat built up to start to see some smoke. Soon enough you'll have fire and a Hugh Jackman-like physique.

Method 9 Fire Plough
Difficulty Level Novice

fire-starting-methods-fire-plough-method

fire-starting-methods-fire-plough-method

fire-starting-methods-fire-plough-method

The concept of the fire plough is that by rubbing a stick back and forth along a cut grove in a piece of wood, small pieces of tinder are produced at the opposite end, which will help ignite a tinder bundle as the temperature increases. If you can't find an ideal piece of wood as a base, use a knife and cut a groove wide enough to allow the point of your stick to slide back and forth. Start “plowing” by rubbing the tip of the stick up and down the grove. Once you see some embers, cultivate them with light blowing until they produce a flame.

Method 10 Bow Drill/Hand Drill
Difficulty Level Advanced

fire-starting-methods-bow-drill-hand-drill-method

fire-starting-methods-bow-drill-hand-drill-method

fire-starting-methods-bow-drill-hand-drill-method

fire-starting-methods-bow-drill-hand-drill-method

When one pictures a backwoods survivalist starting a fire without tools, this is the go-to method they think of. There are five parts to the bow-drill set, and each must be made carefully if you want a successful experience: The bow, string, drill, board, and handhold. The drill spins via the bow and string against the board on one end and is supported by the handhold at the other end. We notched out a space large enough for the drill's end to fit snugly, and toward the end of the base we created a small triangular space to collect the embers we hoped to create. From there, it's just a matter of sawing back and forth, keeping the drill squarely in the hole, watching for the slight embers to flame up.

Conventional Fire Starting

fire-starting-methods-flint-and-steel

Flint and Steel: This tried-and-true method dates back thousands of years, and if you know a little bit about geology, you might be able to find a piece of chert (AKA “flint”) in nature to use. Striking it with high-carbon steel (such as a bushcraft knife) onto a char cloth will provide the best and quickest results.

fire-starting-methods-magnesium-stick

Magnesium Stick: A mag stick with a ferro rod (which is just synthetic flint) fits easily into your pocket and is cheap and long lasting. Scrape some magnesium into a dime-sized pile, hold the ferro rod over the pile, and strike it with something steel.

fire-starting-methods-flares

Flares: An unconventional way using a conventional tool. As a multitasker, a road flare is great for signaling. But since it can be used in inclement weather (rain, snow, wind) and is self-lighting, it's a great tool to ignite a fire with.

fire-starting-methods-matches-and-lighter

Matches/Lighter: Just pack these in waterproof containers and store them everywhere. Of course, matches are vulnerable to being damaged or dampened (especially in wet conditions), while lighters can break or run out of lighter fluid. But for the most part quality matches or lighters hold up, and they're cheap, lightweight, and easy to carry. Snap, presto, flame on!

Only You Can Prevent Wildfires

Just because you're lost and in a survival situation doesn't mean you can accidentally burn down the whole forest. No, the authorities won't understand, you will not pass Go, you will not collect $200, but you'll go directly to jail. Don't be that guy; listen to what Smokey the Bear always says.

fire-starting-methods-fire

– Pick a good spot to build your fire, clear of any dried leaves or dead trees. If it's windy, build your fire in a protected place (between boulders or in an arroyo).
– Build your fire downwind of your campsite and at least 15 feet away.
– Build a fire ring of rocks to contain the coals.
– This is probably the most important tip: When you're done with the fire, put it out.

This Ain’t Your Daddy’s BB Gun?

Written by

Picture the worst-case scenario. Our biggest threat (ISIS, Iran, al-Qaeda, North Korea — take your pick) has launched a coordinated series of suicide-bomb attacks in multiple metropolitan areas, hoping to spread fear and make the nation vulnerable to conventional attacks. Fortunately, you saw the writing on the wall and quickly bugged out in your off-road rig to the backcountry. You've lived off your emergency supplies, but weeks have now passed and you're barely surviving off the land.

You packed an AR-15 rifle, but are low on ammo; plus, using it to hunt could draw unwanted attention from other desperate souls. However, all your preparation for this type of scenario led you to bring along a fitting SHTF tool — an air rifle.

Many airguns available today are more than adequate for taking small- to medium-sized game. In the United States, they're even more attractive because they aren't heavily regulated. So, those of you who like to plan for any inevitability might consider keeping one in your rig or bug-out vehicle, as they can be more than useful in all sorts of emergencies — from being lost in the backcountry to facing long-term survival situations in no man's land.

Compressed Defense

First things first: what is an airgun? Think of it as a blowgun on steroids. Basically, it's like any firearm with a lock, stock, and barrel, except it uses compressed gas to propel the projectile. The breech has a close tolerance to the pellet, forming a seal to trap the air behind it. The trigger system either strikes a valve to release the compressed gas, or releases a spring/gas ram to push a piston that forces the air to compress and drive the pellet at the time of firing.

Airguns have been around for centuries, with fine examples being displayed in arms museums around the world. Even the Lewis and Clark Expedition carried a multi-shot air rifle on their famed trek west of the Mississippi in the early part of the 19th century. When they hear the term airgun, most folks immediately think of “BB gun.” While BB guns qualify as a type of airgun, the variants we're referring to are on a very different end of the spectrum. BB guns use .177-caliber steel shot and feature a smooth bore. While you could down a sparrow with a well-placed shot at close range, a shot from a BB gun is fairly anemic in most circumstances.

Quality air rifles utilize rifled barrels, with higher-end models sometimes sporting barrels made by top firearm barrel manufacturers such as Lothar Walther. Most fire .177- or .22-caliber pellets, and many come equipped with permanently attached sound moderators so their firing signature is less likely to announce your presence every time you go hunting. Would you believe that there are air rifles available today that are capable of taking out a buffalo at 150 yards? Don't believe it? Do a Google search to see for yourself. As astounding as that may seem, that's not even the extreme. In fact, back at the beginning of the 20th century, the U.S. Navy experimented with compressed air deck guns on a warship.

In a true SHTF scenario, could a modern air rifle be used for self-defense? Certainly, it is a possibility. However, there are caveats with that theory. First of all, a number of the air rifles discussed here are single-shot arms. While they may not be as slow to load as a muzzle-loader, they aren't rapid fire either. Another caveat is range. Unless you have a custom big-bore, your effective range will typically be less than 100 yards. Additionally, pellet mass is usually only between 7 and 15 grains, so there's not a lot of terminal ft-lb of energy hitting a target. The conclusion would have to be, yes, self-defense is a possibility in a pinch. But a better option would be to use your airgun for hunting, while saving your centerfire rounds for when you might really need them.

Affordable and abundant, airgun ammunition are pellets usually made from copper or lead. They come in various calibers, most commonly .177, .22, and .25.

Affordable and abundant, airgun ammunition are pellets usually made from copper or lead. They come in various calibers,...

Airgun Types

You've seen pellet rifles at the big-box stores, and most look like “starter” guns used to introduce kids to shooting. The low-end guns are excellent for that purpose, yet you wouldn't want to bet your life on them. If you're going to stake your survival on one, be sure to do your research. Let's look at the power plants providing the air or compressed gas to different types of airguns.

air-rifles-gamo-whisper-silent-cat

The Gamo Whisper Silent Cat is a spring-piston airgun of the break-barrel variety, meaning that the barrel also serves as the cocking lever. This single-shot breech-loader can fire .177-caliber pellets at up to 1,200 feet per second.

The Gamo Whisper Silent Cat is a spring-piston airgun of the break-barrel variety, meaning that the barrel also serves...

Spring-Powered: Spring-piston or gas-ram airguns are commonly referred to as “springers.” Break-barrel types are charged by forcing the barrel downward though the cocking arc, sometimes requiring up to 35 or 40 pounds of pressure. Then you load a pellet into the breech and return the barrel to its original position. Other versions of springers are charged by a side-lever or lever below the barrel.

air-rifles-crosman-benjamin

This Crosman Benjamin is a multi-pump air rifle, meaning its internal reservoir is charged by pumping a lever — which, in this case, is integrated in the fore-end. Multi-pumps are solid off-grid tools because they're

This Crosman Benjamin is a multi-pump air rifle, meaning its internal reservoir is charged by pumping a lever —...

Multi-Pump: These rely on an internal reservoir that is charged by pumping a lever, typically part of the fore-end of the rifle. When the rifle is fired, all of the air in the reservoir is released. This type allows the user to control the power and velocity of the shot to some extent by varying the number of pumps. Multi-pumps and powerful springers can be a real workout during long shooting/practice sessions, especially multi-pumps because each stroke is harder than the last.

This Daystate Wolverine B can retail up to almost two G's. Your daddy's BB gun it is not — unless his last name is Trump. This pre-charged pneumatic rifle features a 500cc air bottle, allowing for about 85 shots of .177- or .22-caliber pellets per fill.

This Daystate Wolverine B can retail up to almost two G's. Your daddy's BB gun it is not — unless his...

Pre-Charged Pneumatic (PCP): These types hold high-pressure gas (air, CO2, or nitrogen), up to 3,000 psi, in a reservoir attached to the gun. PCPs can be good for many high-powered shots before needing recharging and can be stored under pressure for long periods of time (except in hot vehicles!). These might be considered a little less “self-contained” as they require either a specialized pump or some type of pressurized cylinder (i.e. scuba tank) to refill them. But, if your bug-out truck is already rigged with an air compressor, you won't have to worry about recharging when you're in the middle of nowhere.

Carbon Dioxide (CO2): CO2 airguns strictly run on pressurized carbon dioxide via throwaway cartridges or tanks. Newer models can take larger refillable 88-gram tanks as opposed to the little 12-gram cylinders commonly used in BB guns and with portable bicycle tire pumps. But note that those that accept the larger tanks are not going to be more powerful than the other types of airguns. A disadvantage to cylinder-fed guns is that carrying spare cartridges can get heavy really quickly. There are some PCP models that operate with either CO2 or high-pressure air that can be viable choices, only because you could revert back to air after exhausting your supply of CO2. Other drawbacks: pellet velocities are impacted by ambient temperature fluctuations that affect the gas cartridges, and they should not be stored pressurized.

air-rifles-crosman-benjamin-discovery

The Benjamin Discovery from Crosman is a pre-charged pneumatic rifle with a filling port just below the muzzle.

The Benjamin Discovery from Crosman is a pre-charged pneumatic rifle with a filling port just below the muzzle.

Off-Grid Options

Let's get down to the nitty-gritty. Which type is the perfect survival airgun? It depends on your finances and circumstances.

If you can stretch your budget, a PCP would be a good bet. They are good for many high-powered shots, have low to no recoil, and are available from some manufacturers in large calibers (i.e. .25 and .30). Several models are adjustable for the power of the shot, which helps conserve air if full-power shots are not needed. Some models are fed by rotary magazines. As a bonus, suppressed models tend to have a mild sound signature, essential if you're trying to stay low-key. One manufacturer even makes a model with an interchangeable arrow-firing barrel. Some variants are carbine length, which adds to the appeal for some shooters.

The drawback? PCP versions can be pricey. For example, the Hatsan BT65 (featured in Issue 14 of our sister publication RECOIL) can fire 30 accurate shots at 30 yards before any noticeable drop in muzzle velocity — but it retails for about $700. Ouch! Other models, such as the Daystate Wolverine B, have a heart-attack-inducing MSRP of almost $2,000. Yes, two grand. Double ouch! Plus, if your bug-out truck doesn't already have an air compressor or you're forced to go on foot, you'll have a hard time justifying packing an air pump in your go-bag over, say, water and rations.

This special high-pressure air pump is designed to recharge pre-charged pneumatic (PCP) airguns. In a bug-out scenario, packing this piece of equipment makes PCP air rifles a little less attractive. But if you have the cargo capacity to spare, a PCP and its accessories are good additions to your survival kit.

This special high-pressure air pump is designed to recharge pre-charged pneumatic (PCP) airguns. In a bug-out scenario,...

Another good choice for an off-grid airgun could be a multi-pump. These types truly are self-contained because the method to charge the gun is built right into the weapon itself. In .20- or .22-caliber, they are quite capable of taking small critters at reasonable distances. They tend to have light recoil and are relatively quiet. One manufacturer produces a bullpup configuration in .30-caliber and claims the pumping force doesn't increase with each pump. But there are downsides. They shouldn't be left pressurized for long periods. Plus, they must be pumped for each shot. So, if you're faced with more than one marauder or predator, you better make that first shot count and have a backup weapon at the ready.

For the budget-conscious, a break-barrel springer could be more than adequate as a survival gun. There are many models readily available in a myriad of calibers, stocks, and finishes. Some are very powerful, can be had in calibers as big as .25, and are accurate with practice. Models equipped with sound moderators reduce the sharp crack as the pellet leaves the barrel, and, of course, some work better than others.

The Hatsan MOD 125 Sniper is available in .177, .22, and .25, the former of which can shoot up to 1,250 feet per second. This single-shot, break-barrel rifle comes in three colors, including this Mossy Oak Break-Up camo version.

The Hatsan MOD 125 Sniper is available in .177, .22, and .25, the former of which can shoot up to 1,250 feet per...

What's their biggest hindrance as a SHTF tool? Springers are typically heavy due to the metal used in the receiver housing, its powerful spring, and a substantial stock to handle its internal stresses. If you're already carrying a large three-day pack, this type of airgun will only add to your cargo load. Also, they're rather loud unless fitted with a good suppressor. Its cocking force can be a bit much for smaller shooters, too. While not the same as a medium-caliber rifle, recoil from a springer can be surprisingly stout for shooters fondly remembering their old BB guns; plus, its recoil occurs in both forward and backward directions. For this reason, you do not want to use your favorite riflescope on your springer air rifle because it could eventually damage the scope.

Should you find yourself in a Red Dawn-like situation, your firearms will obviously be essential survival tools. But they're not always the best choice when you're forced to go on a stealth hunt after all the grocery stores have been boarded up, burned down, or taken over by unsavory types. Archery bows are great tools, but let's face it, they take a lot of practice to master and aren't necessarily the best choice with small game. Spears, slingshots, or blowguns might be an option at close range, but again, only with enough practice. For the area in between these options, the airgun makes sense for filling the void. There are a myriad of choices out there, so you are bound to find the right option for you. Do your research and test some out if you're able. It could mean the difference between facing starvation or putting meat in the pot.

Warning!

Airguns aren't toys. Handle them like firearms, and obey the four cardinal safety rules: 1. Treat every gun as if it were loaded; 2. Always point the gun in a safe direction; 3. Keep your finger off the trigger until you're ready to fire; and 4. Be aware of your target's surroundings.

Airgun Maintenance

Keeping your weapons, even airguns, in top form is essential to your survival. For springer-type air rifles, besides cleaning and lubing the inside of the barrel occasionally, you'll want to oil its joints and any friction points. Any type of airgun you decide on will also need new O-rings or seals eventually. The seals will last a whole lot longer if you avoid using any products derived from petroleum distillates, so get yourself some quality silicone lubricant. Replacing seals on an airgun is a topic for another article, but educating yourself on some simple maintenance via the user manual, YouTube, or friends and acquiring a supply of seals and parts will go a long way in keeping that air rifle a viable piece of your survival kit.

Air Force Education

Are you new to airguns? Never fired an air rifle before? Much like any other valuable survival tool, there is a bit of a learning curve. The best thing to do before purchasing a model is to do as much research as possible and test a few if you have the opportunity, then determine if any of them fit in your off-grid plans. Below is a brief list of companies and resources in the world of airguns.

Airforce Airguns: This U.S. manufacturer of pre-charge pneumatics (PCP) produces the Ton Jones signature survival air rifle.
www.airforceairguns.com

Airgun Hobbyist: A publication devoted to airguns and its related accessories.
www.airgunhobbyist.com

Airguns of Arizona: This importer and purveyor of fine airguns is also a certified repair facility for many brands.
www.airgunsofarizona.com

Crosman: Founded in 1923, this U.S. corporation makes all types of airguns, ammo, and accessories.
www.crosman.com

Daystate: An English company that constructs high-end PCP rifles.
www.daystate.com

FX Airguns: A Swedish maker of fine PCP and multi-pump air rifles, as well as the arrow-firing Verminator Extreme.
www.fxairguns.com

Gamo USA: This is the American arm of the longtime Spanish airgun manufacturer.
www.gamousa.com

Hatsan USA: The U.S. branch of a line of high-quality Turkish airguns, many in .25-caliber.
www.hatsanusa.com

Umarex USA: The American division of this German corporation designs impressive airguns.
www.umarexusa.com