Night Vision Goggles: Staring into the Darkness

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Night Vision evokes a sense of the near future, and as it becomes more and more available to those not in the military's special operations units, we are fortunate to live in a country that occasionally believes that its citizens should not be left in the dark. In OFFGRID 43 we looked at how a set of Night Vision tubes are judged for quality, and were discovered, at least on the inside, the technology can sometimes look like one part science, one part magic. But it's not just what's on the inside that counts. Two of the most popular models of night vision goggles, the RNVG and DTNVG are getting a specific look for what they bring to the table and where one might be chosen over the other.

night vision goggles

Night vision goggles can only be represented so well by film and video games, and apart from using them, it can be difficult to get a picture of what are the advantages and drawbacks of a dual tube system. The history of night vision is a tangled path of experimentation, but over the course of the Global War on Terror, the military's use and development of the equipment has illuminated their application, at least in a tactical environment. As more and more night vision ends up in the public's hands, new uses pop up.

Night Vision Goggles Terminology

The term Night Vision Goggles (NVG) has been used to identify a variety of types of night vision, from misused general reference, to AN/PVS-7's with a single objective lens, but two eyepieces, to what is accurately described as goggles: housing with two independent tubes. The term NVD (Night Vision Device) has held more wide-spread standing, along with NOD (Night Observation Device) have leaked into common use, and for the sake of this article, we are restraining the use of the term Night Vision Goggles to those with two independent pods, each with their own objective lense, “tube” or internals, and ocular lense.

night vision goggles rnvg opscore

Above: Opscore FAST SF Super High Cut Ballistic Helmet with Illumination and Strobe by S&S Precision. Wilcox mount and TNVC Ruggedized Night Vision Goggles.

Military men and women involved in night operations during the last 20 years of war have likely undergone various iterations of night vision development. From the clunky AN/PVS-7 (Army/Navy Portable Visual Search – 7) to the comparatively sleek monocular AN/PVS-14, to NVG's, and for a special few, the quad-tube GPNVG's. Within the military, a distinction was made between land-centric, and aviation-focused night vision devices, where a few generalities could distinguish the design intent between one and the other. Aviation NVG's were typically lighter, and more fragile, and prioritized optical clarity, while the mission set of those using ground-based night vision required something that could withstand a broad variety of adverse environments.

night vision goggles

Above: Photo by Samantha Lauraina

Outside of the military, however, this distinction loses purchase, partially because the availability of night vision is such a recent development for civilians. As a result, while some things are still behind a government/civilian partition, the buyer is opened up to an expanding plethora of options when it comes to night vision. From green or white phosphor tubes, to new options in lenses, to a growing list of different housings, each with its quirks and qualities.

Why Binos/Goggles?

Unlike video games, night vision devices affect what you can see more than washing it in one color scale. One of the first things noticed when wearing NODs for the first time is how it affects one's depth perception. Albeit oversimplified, in the daylight, both eyes and one's neurology work together to achieve stereopsis: a “solid vision” including an understanding of distance in reference to one's self. A monocle NOD, such as the AN/PVS-14 grants the user the ability to see in the dark, but their depth perception is fairly hampered. Although there is still some distortion, night vision goggles handle this phenomenon drastically better.

The field of view changes everything. Single tube night vision isn’t part of the conversation because of the total lack of situational awareness. Typical dual tubes have 40 degrees, where 4-tube night vision has  97 degrees. That means less tunnel vision. When you’re looking through night vision, if an object is even slightly outside of that field of view, you don’t see it at all. Adding that extra field of view increases both reaction time, and situational awareness. It gets really dangerous when do- ing things like breaching or skydiving, or riding a dirt bike under night vision. – GBRS Group from our interview with them in OFFGRID 43.

Components

In the article on evaluating Night Vision tubes, most of the focus was on the guts of the devices. FOM, or figure of merit considers the image intensifier, which for some reason have been colloquially referred to as “tubes.” So when we say “tube” we mean what's inside the tube, but when we say “pod” it's the actual cylinder holding the guts in place.

night vision riding

Above: Photo by Samantha Lauraina

Commercially, AN/PVS-14 lenses rule the market. As a result, most night vision goggle bodies/housings are designed to take AN/PVS-14 glass. Some military models stray from this, and are trickling down into the civilian world, such as the L3 Harris BNVD AN/PVS-31a with its fixed diopter.

A Tale of Two Housings

With nearly identical tubes and lenses, two different housings show what each brings to the table. The RNVG or Ruggedized Night Vision Goggle came from TNVC to take a look at what is likely the most rugged housing on the market. Ideal for doing unorthodox activities like trying to Offroad a motorcycle under NODs, where you hope to avoid testing the integrity of night vision goggles. The RNVG's are constructed out of 7075 aluminum by AB Night Vision, giving it considerable rigidity to protect the expensive tubes inside.

TNVC RNVG Night Vision goggles

Each of the pods effectively run on a track and the inter-pupillary adjustment of the RNVG's is accomplished by turning a knob at each end. Due to the shape, they do not stow as close to the helmet/forehead as the individually articulating pods on other housings. There are better candidates out there for “day noodles,” but nothing beats the RNVG for protection against bumps and falls: something anyone who has spent time under night vision is very familiar with. For those who do not personally have a fully-functioning supply chain to replace broken or tweaked equipment, the RNVG by TNVC deserves a second look.

Built into TNVC's RNVGs, a small Infrared light comes standard, and although the adjustments can make the NODs feel stiff, such is the tradeoff for its rigidity. The housing is heavier than other night vision goggle bodies, but we're talking about the weight of two CR123 batteries, so nothing extreme.

TNVC RNVG

RNVG

Built by TNVC

Optional Image Intensifiers: L3 Unfilmed White, L3 Thin Filmed Green
Weight: 570 grams, 20.1 ounces
Battery: CR123, or External Battery Pack
MSRP with L3 Unfilmed (White): $8,700
URL: tnvc.com

At the time of writing, Night Vision Incorporated still has DTNVG housings by ACTinBlack in stock. While they have been mostly replaced by the DTNVS housings by the same manufacturer, the genetic code remains consistent between the two generations. With individually articulating pods, the wearer can choose baetween left-eye, right-eye, or both with quick, easy adjustments. When transitioning from the dark outside to a lit room, a quick push of the pods moves them out of the way, where they automatically shut off to protect the internals.

Night Vision Incorporated DTNVG

DTNVGs represent a well-rounded housing, with more than adequately rugged fiber reinforced polycarbonate body, reasonable water resistance, and very straightforward manipulation. With L3 White Phosphor tubes at their core, they hold up well against all but the most aggressive builds, which typically demand a considerably higher pricetag. Some drawbacks, such as the lack of a port for an external battery pack, are partially solved by things like the ACTinBlack DICC. So, no high-altitude skydiving immediately out of the box, at least not where you'd need a cold-weather pack.

Multicam Black DTNVG

Above: The Multicam Black pattern is not original to the DTNVGs, but instead is a Nocorium Wrap sold by Steele Industries.

DTNVGs are on the heavier side for night vision goggles, but once again, we are dealing in grams and fractions of ounces for the most part. Night Vision Incorporated also offers to build DTNVGs with Ether Eyepieces, which drop the overall weight of the unit by 40 grams. When a premium set of BNVDs comes in at <450 grams, the difference isn't vast, making DTNVGs a general-use set of night vision goggles.

ACTinBlack DTNVG backplate

ACTinBlack DTNVG

Built by Night Vision Incorporated

Optional Image Intensifiers: L3 Harris 24 UA Gen3 Unfilmed White, Photonis 4G Hybrid White
Weight: 528 grams, 18.6 ounces
Battery: CR123
MSRP with L3 Unfilmed: $11,500
URL: nvincorporated.com

Closing Considerations on Night Vision Goggles

While the AN/PVS-14 may be referred to as the new Glock Gen 3 of night vision, as the “everyman's NODs,” night vision goggles will continue to proceed as the world standard for above-recreational equipment. The cost of entry for night vision definitely requires some time, consideration, and planning for most civilian buyers, and it doesn't stop at what you're looking through. Along with NVGs, one will have to consider helmet, mount, and if there's a weapon involved, IR laser/illuminator.

Still, for the long-term, night vision goggles are the staple for all but top tier special operations units. Maybe a breakthrough will occur that will force us to eat our words on the matter of NVG cost of entry, but if that comes to pass, we certainly won't be complaining.

More on Night Vision

Slam Fire Shotgun DIY: Building Joe Biden’s Blaster

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Last year, we built a 410-gauge shotgun from a kit and a lot of pipe fittings for our sister magazine RECOIL OFFGRID. One thing about building that particular piece was that even the parts kit that was provided by Pop-A-410 could easily be sourced at a home improvement store. So this time, we set about building one relying purely on Home Depot’s inventory to build a Slam Fire Shotgun.

Disclaimer:

It’s legal for you to build your own firearms. Convicted felons or other prohibited persons, however, cannot. There may also be other applicable laws where you live, so double-check the regulations in your jurisdiction. The following article is for educational and entertainment purposes only. CMG West, its parent entities, and subsidiaries shall be held harmless in the event any entity acts on information provided in this article.

Some people who consider the firearm lifestyle a mere hobby couldn’t get over themselves decrying how dangerous and irresponsible these types of builds are for a shooter. There are inherent risks at every turn when it comes to firearms, and like anything with a modicum of danger, they’re unforgiving of human error.

slam ffire shotgun DIY

Above: Construction is simple, using four pieces of pipe, two pipe caps, two tees, two set screws and some scrap pieces of steel. The only element of complexity is in lining up the welds properly to ensure consistent ignition.

With that in mind, we set out to build a slam fire shotgun in 12-gauge.

BUILDING the SLAM FIRE SHOTGUN

It’s legal for gun owners to build their own firearms, so long as they can legally own and possess what they’re building — convicted felons or other prohibited persons cannot. There may be additional restrictions where you live, so be sure to double check.

Schedule 40 black iron pipe is sold in a number of sizes. For 12-gauge slam fire shotgun, you’ll need ¾- and 1-inch diameter pipes, plus a 1-inch cap to thread on the end of the 1-inch pipe that’ll act as your receiver.

It gets tricky here, as not all pipes are created equal, and the sizes aren’t close to being uniform. The reason for this is that plumbing isn’t a modern invention, and most standards are really just guidelines. Furthermore, pipe threads will certainly not be concentric to the bore.

When selecting a ¾-inch pipe, try to bring a few different types of shotgun shells with you to see if they’ll fit. Some will, but most won’t. If you check several pipes on the same shelf, you’ll often find inside diameter variances between all of them. Ideally, the front of the rim should sit flush, and the shell itself should have very little, if any, play at all.

slam fire shotgun

The next step is to check that the ¾-inch pipe will fit inside the 1-inch pipe. If it drops in with a tight fit, even better. Most likely, you’ll need to hog out the inside with a sanding bit. Ideally, you want enough clearance and fit so that the ¾-inch pipe freely moves back and forth through the 1-inch pipe.

Ensure that the cap easily threads down on the 1-inch pipe. A proper seal is critical for this next step. This was our stumbling block, so we turned to good friends Tyler Norona and Jarrett Bushey at Illumined Arms to cut and rethread the pipe ends. 

Back at the shop, drill and tap the center of the cap to install the firing pin. Centering will be the hardest part, because you’ll find that even the cap is woefully out of spec when compared to most gun parts. You can mark the primer of your shotgun shell, load it in the ¾-inch pipe, and see where the marking agent hits the inside of the cap. This is where you need to drill and will become your breech face.

Once you have a hole all the way through, you can start your tap from the outside. Go slow and use cutting oil; back out every so often to keep it clean. We used an 8-40 tap because that was the size of the set screws we had on hand.

slam fire shotgun

Above: She may not be pretty, but the JBB-12 is effective and can be either a fun “I made this” project, or a weapon of last resort when it’s the only thing you can lay hands on.

Thread the set screw into the threads you created. You just need the tip to barely protrude. Too deep and you run the risk of piercing a primer. Once the tip of the firing pin is set, hit it for about 15 seconds with a butane torch to harden it.

Lastly, we attached a ¾-inch tee to the threaded end of the ¾-inch pipe, making a forend grip to more easily slam-fire the gun.

These five parts comprise a basic slam-fire gun. Aside from preparing the cap, the only real tools you need are a pipe wrench to ensure everything is snug, tools for cutting the pipe, and a file or Dremel to size the insides if needed. 

We christened our creation the JBB-12.

INSPIRATION for the SLAM FIRE SHOTGUN

Former Vice President Joe Biden once remarked that all anyone needs for self-defense is a shotgun:

“I said, ‘Jill, if there’s ever a problem, just walk out on the balcony here, walk out and put that double-barrel shotgun and fire two blasts outside the house,’” Biden said. 

“You don’t need an AR-15 — it’s harder to aim,” he added, “it’s harder to use, and in fact you don’t need 30 rounds to protect yourself. Buy a shotgun! Buy a shotgun!”

slam fire shotgun

Above: You can make the frond easier to rack by wrapping the pipe sections in burlap (as shown), parachute cord, wire, or rubber from a bicycle inner tube.

We decided to build this firearm just like he advised.

It’s a bit more of a challenging build as you need to connect the two outer pipes and ensure that the barrels can move back and forth. This means welding. Once we spaced the chambered receivers, we did the same with the barrels, using ¾-inch pipe tees to add a foregrip made of shorter pieces of pipe. Fitting the pipes was tough, and we used a liberal amount of Lucas Oil Gun Grease to keep the action smooth. As it was a bit heavy and cumbersome, we mounted a piece of pipe to act as a pistol grip.

This was intended to mostly be fired from the hip. You could add a stock, but firing two 12-gauges simultaneously, inches away from your face, didn’t seem like a good idea.

FIRING THE JBB-12

To fire the JBB-12, you load the chambers, take hold of the forward grip, aim, and slam the barrels rearward. The impact of the firing pins against the primers of the shells causes ignition and fires the projectile.

You also might want to say a Hail Mary that you don’t blow yourself up in the process.

Our first try was experimental to lessen the chances of grave injury or death. We emptied the shot out of a pair of mini shells about 1.75 inches long. Only one barrel successfully discharged, so we tightened down the set screw on the faulty chamber and slammed it again. It went bang. Next, we moved up to live ammo, again in the form of mini shells, then eventually a few 2¾-inch loads from bird shot to #4 buck shot. Both barrels fired simultaneously 90 percent of the time. You can somewhat-intentionally fire a single barrel instead of two by altering your angle when you slam.

slam fire shotgun parts

Above: The JBB-12 breaks down into two components for ease in transportation, with each section measuring 20 inches and 14 inches, respectively.

We had built a fully functional double-barrel, slam-fire gun and have to admit the recoil was much milder than anticipated, due to the weight of the piece and the thickness of the pipe. It was much quieter than a typical double-barrel, but hip firing may have played a role there.

NFA

The slam fire shotgun barrels measured 19.5 inches, and the overall length was 20 inches. While the barrel length was certainly legal if you were building a shotgun, the overall length was below 26 inches. Had we placed a stock on the JBB-12 or added an extra 6 inches to the barrels, this would be a typical Title 1 firearm. However, there was no need for a stock on this project. In this case, the end result was to register it as an AOW (Any Other Weapon).

slam fire shotgun

Above: Two shots are better than one sometimes, but make sure your shells will fit in the chambers as you build.

This is a catch-all classification for firearms that don’t have a traditional design, such as pen guns, glove guns, and so forth. If your pipe gun is extremely simple, with no grips, stocks, or triggers, looking like one piece of pipe inside another with a cap, that’ll be an AOW. The classification is also applied to firearms with one rifled and one smoothbore barrel under the 18- or 26-inch minimum requirements, like the old Marble’s Game Getter. Likewise, if you have a smoothbore firearm that has never had a stock installed and doesn’t meet both length requirements, an AOW tax stamp is the order of the day.

It costs $200 to build an AOW, just like any other NFA item on a Form 1. However, the transfer tax is only $5, so there’s a benefit when you transfer it to another entity.

ALTERNATIVES AND LOOSE ROUNDS

The slam fire shotgun was yet another fun project. It was definitely less expensive than building the slam-fire 410-gauge, and you can walk away with the satisfaction that you built a firearm on your own. Moreover, putting it together may give you a better sense of how firearms work.

This is a gun for a time we hope never comes — when your own guns are confiscated or destroyed, and you have no chance of buying another one. Had we built a single-shot version, our cost would’ve been about $45. This one came in at about $95.

If you just want a sterile firearm, there are plenty out there in the form of shotguns and rimfire rifles built prior to 1968 that have no serial numbers. They can be had for not much more than what was invested in this project. 

slam fire shotgun cover

Above: A homemade shotgun is one of the few firearms you can build without using any actual gun parts; the JBB-12 is a volley fire 12-gauge AOW (Any Other Weapon).

Look for names like Hopkins & Allen, New England Firearms, Harrington & Richardson, Iver Johnson, Savage/Stevens, Sears, Western Auto, and the like. You’ll end up with something safe and definitely a more accurate shooter.

The home-built slam fire shotgun is more of a tool to help you understand how a firearm works in most simplistic terms, providing a basic blueprint for building something like this when you have no other choice. Beyond the fun factor, this is a firearm of last resort. 

It may also be your only alternative should a certain political party get their way in all branches of government and decide to shred the um, uh, you know the thing. 

More DIY from RECOIL

A Chest Rig for Every Occasion

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It's important for those in the line of duty, and those in charge of gear acquisition, to remember that the mission drives gear. Before this principle can be followed, the objective itself must be clearly defined and established. For those not in such positions, it can be tempting to spend time and money on gear, hoping that the possession of such equipment will inspire or create opportunities to use it. Whether for situations of civil unrest or scouting for feral hogs: where ammo and other gear might be carried, where mobility and stealth are higher priorities, a chest rig might be the right answer.

We've talked before about some of the history of load-bearing equipment such as a bullet proof vest, and even as gear development goes through phases and cycles centered around the current situation, we are reminded the real world is very different than the “current meta” in a video game. We're often sent looking for the best piece of gear only to be reminded that there are objective and subjective elements in play. A plate carrier is objectively better at stopping a bullet than a chest rig, but in relation to most scouting operations, ends up being a possible mission-crippling burden.

“You will be weighed down with body armor, rations, extra ammumition, communications gear, and a thousand other things. The enemy will carry a rifle, or RPG, a shemagh, and a water bottle, if he is lucky.”
– Kilcullen, David Counterinsergency. Narrated by Peter Ganim. Audible, 2011. Audiobook. (1:17:00)

One of the greatest advantages of a chest rig is its scalability. Even before the placard system was popularized on plate carriers, a chest rig could easily be worn over body armor. A product of modern warfare, where battles are fought more in skirmishes, than grand assaults, in streets, not trenches, the lightweight and easy-to-produce piece of kit has evolved to fit the needs of the operator, the hunter, and the terrorist.

S&S Precision Chest Rig Modular

Above: The S&S Precision Chest Rig-Modular represents an example of using modern manufacturing and materials to create a uniquely advanced piece of kit with one of the best fit and most space for attaching mission-essential equipment.

History and Origins

Two historical elements influenced and inspired the development of the chest rig, all such taking place in the latter half of the 20th century. As industrialized militaries adjusted their gear and tactics, the chest rig came about through the proliferation of AK-47 pattern rifles, the integration of contemporary vehicles, and specialized small-unit tactics. While the Rhodesians are often credited with creating the chest rig during their Bush War, it was the Chinese Communists that first fielded them during the Viet Nam conflict. The size and curvature of AK-47 style magazines denied the use of belt-mounted carrying systems.

Another key integration came about when cars, trucks, and tanks appeared on the scene. The U.S. Army's ALICE system worked well to reduce the weight an individual soldier would carry, but what worked in the field didn't always work in the passenger seat. This is where the Rhodesian Bush War comes in, as the Selous Scouts and similar forces popularized the chest rig as it facilitated reloading a rifle in the confines of a vehicle. Since then, the influence can be seen in the way plate carriers developed, adapting to both mounted patrols and dismounted special operations simultaneously. To date, the U.S. Military continues to in field chest rigs, especially in reconnaissance-related activities.

Chest Rig Types

Now it wouldn't be fair to lump all chest rigs together and simply grade them on quality. Three distinct types stand out, each emerging to address different problems. Even as they are divided between light, medium, and heavy chest, each addresses a different scenario altogether.

Light/Minimalist Chest Rig

Recently represented by the Spiritus Systems Bank Robber and the Unobtanium Gear Dank Robber, the lightweight category is built for the covert nature of many modern conflicts. Able to be concealed under a jacket or hoodie, they fit the clandestine nature of counter-insurgency, as well as bank robberies. Minimalist chest rigs are typically designed to meet a specific goal, and so are not as configurable to different scenarios. In exchange, they are simple, and in some cases, disposable.

dank robber chest rig

In our review of the Dank Robber chest rig by Unobtanium Gear, we highlighted that the simplicity of the gear was it's strongest point. Although it had the ability to carry up to three rifle and three pistol mags, as well as a small radio and smoke grenade or first aid kit, it worked very well carrying less.

eberlestock EDC Pack cover

For those not currently engaged in guerilla-warfare, these light chest rigs vary in design, such as the INVRT bandoleer featured in this EDC Bag Dump of the Eberlestock Cherry Bomb. A set-it-and-forget-it piece of equipment, that if carried, should come out to the range with you from time to time, minimalist chest rigs fit well in tight spaces and get-home bags. A well-worn and adapted chest rig of this type is suited for providing neighborhood security during times of civil unrest, as it can easily go unnoticed.

Minimalist Chest Rig Reviews

Mid-Weight/Recce Chest Rigs

These approach two very separate, but related scenarios: military ranging, and stalking elusive game. In both situations, there is a time to move quickly over adverse terrain, and another to move with precision, while still carrying an array of mission-specific tools. Where the hunter may drop his pack and set up camp, those ranging deep behind enemy lines will set up a patrol base when approaching a specific target.

redwire gear Emr

Above: The Redline Gear Emergency Management Rack with attached Demo Pouch represents a mid-size chest rig that could attach to a plate carrier.

The mid-weight chest rig will carry the mission essential gear, from demolitions, to binoculars. It can be thought of as a chest rig meant to carry tools in addition to the baseline of ammunition, medical, and signalling. Some come in one piece, pre-built but adaptable such as the Haley Strategic D3CRM and D3CRX, and others must be built, such as the S&S Precision Chest Rig-Modular.

Haley Strategic D3

Above: On this Haley Strategic D3CRX: 4 Rifle Mags, 2 Pistol Mags, a Skallywag Dagger, and a Surefire Flashlight. The large flanking pouches are perfect for a smoke canister or medical gear.

Sometimes these rigs are capable of accepting armor plates via a sleeve or other system. The adaptation of many plate carriers have turned many mid-weight chest rigs into placards to simplify and remain consistent across practice. That way, the chest rig that rides around in the trunk can be scaled up to an armored situation when the driver gets home, or when moving from patrol base to patrol base, the team can download their armor in order to prioritize speed and stealth.

Haley Strategic D3CRX on a esstac plate carrier

Above: The Haley Strategic D3CRX can be quickly attached to a plate carrier equipped with the right clips, such as this Esstac Daeodon Plate Carrier.

When hunting, these will still ride underneath a pack, allowing for navigation tools, and snacks to be stored in a centralized location on the body. If signs of their quarry were to be suddenly found, they could quickly drop their pack and move on their prey.

Heavy/Expedition Level Chest Rig

The final catagory of chest rig is the most uncommon, in that it's only preferred in either very specific instances, or has been replaced, in many ways, by the Plate Carrier. In contrast, however, it harkens back to a time not too long ago, when larger, long-term operations would take forces far from supply lines. As a result, however, these are more often found in recreational scenarios now.

barrel and hatchet ghost chest rig

Above: The Barrel and Hatchet Ghost Chest Rig fulfills the role of a long-term operation sustainment gear, capable of carrying water, food, and necessary equipment for both surviving and seeing the mission completed. 

The end-all-bring-all of Chest Rigs, water, food, and other sustainment resources can be carried on these larger, more expansive load-bearing rigs. Most likely to be modular, these can be thrown over a plate carrier if need be, but it distinguishes itself from the mid-weight category via application. Where a mid-weight might be used for a 3-10 day operation, an expedition class rig is for those expecting multiple consecutive weeks away from a base, who can be resupplied in the field.

Closing Considerations

It can be easy to fall into the trap of seeing a chest rig as merely a load-bearing system that doesn't accept armor plates, but that would be viewing it as something it's not trying to be. Even though it's a champaign problem for many, gear selection, and the integration of a chest rig into an ecosystem of surveillance or defense depends on what that piece of gear is trying to accomplish. As stated earlier, it can be easy to put the cart far before the horse when buying a chest rig. A slick, low-profile rig does a spy make.

Civilian applications are fundamentally rooted in individual responsibility. Whether pursuing game over adventuresome terrain or establishing the perimeter in a civil unrest scenario, the chest rig is one solution among many, but also one with a decisive history. That being the case, when looking for a mobile and compact package to carry specified equipment, or add a layer of scalability to an EDC Survival Loadout, this is the way.

MORE ON CHEST RIGS, BODY ARMOR, AND TACTICAL GEAR

Dehydrating Food: A Survivalist’s Guide

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From a medical standpoint, dehydration is never your friend, but when it comes to nutrition, dehydrating food can extend life instead of ending it. Long before the age of refrigeration and freezers, our ancestors figured out that if you remove moisture from food, it’ll last longer. This has been observed all over the world, from seeds and fruits to meat and fish, proving this an effective method. As a prepared citizen, you should already be familiarizing yourself with growing, hunting, and gathering some of your own food. 

Previous articles on OFFGRIDweb have covered ways to grow your own food, and some on ways to preserve it, such as canning, pickling, and, of course, freezing. In many states, hunting seasons change throughout the year, allowing you to harvest different types of game, most of which can be stored for future use through the dehydration process. Even if you’re not a hunter, finding a good sale at the grocery store allows you to bulk buy and store the excess somewhere other than the freezer. Having a variety of foods on hand, particularly ones that are stored without the need for constant electricity, is a major advantage during any emergency. 

Necessary Equipment

Maximizing these bounties will require some tools to make the process easier — and more importantly, safer — than what our ancestors could manage. The most obvious prerequisite will be a dehydrator. A purpose-built dehydrator is relatively inexpensive (some can be had for $40) and makes it much easier to control the proper temperature for various types of foods. Entry-level dehydrators usually come with a few trays that can stack on top of each other, allowing the warm air to circulate around the food. This allows the food to dry at a constant rate for uniformity. Larger and more expensive dehydrating food tools will look like miniature ovens, and have built-in timers and more precise temperature control. 

You can use your kitchen oven for dehydrating food, but the process is much less efficient than a dedicated piece of equipment. Most kitchen ovens can’t produce a low enough temperature for herbs or fruits and vegetables. Really you can only use a kitchen oven for meats, so long as it can be set to about 165 to 175 degrees F. 

Fruits

Once the dehydrator is acquired, getting started is straightforward for most food items.

dehydrating food oranges

Above: Dehydrated oranges, bananas, and strawberries ready for eating or storage.

Here we’ll start with fruit — a survivalist’s friend for vitamins, minerals, carbohydrates, and, of course, sugar. One of the most popular garden staples is the tomato, and yes, it’s a fruit, not a vegetable. You may have seen our previous web-exclusive article on making your own DIY tomato powder back in March 2018. There we outline how to make your own dehydrated tomato powder and the various uses, like instant tomato paste. The paste can then be transformed into pizza sauce, because everyone loves pizza, especially when times are tough. 

dehydrating food fruit

Similar to the tomato, dehydrating food like apples, pears, and peaches requires you to pick the best fruit available and give it a good wash. Slice the fruits uniformly in ¼- to ½-inch-thick sections, removing the cores/pits and place them on the drying racks of your dehydrator. Set it to 135 degrees F and forget it — let the machine do its job and check on the fruits in a few hours. They should be dried and shriveled or dehydrated to your liking. The less moisture, the longer these will last. If fruits feel stiff and brittle, they’ve been thoroughly dehydrated; if they bend, they may need more time. Citrus fruits, bananas, and berries are similar in that you want them to be as uniform as possible, cleaned, and in the best condition. 

Fruit Leather

Fruit leather, commonly known as fruit rolls, can be a crowd pleaser, especially for younger members of the family. These are simply made from fruit puree and can be crafted from some of the less desirable fruits that are bruised, slightly past their prime, or irregularly shaped. Many find that using blueberries for fruit leather is better than dehydrating individual berries. Combining fruits that have more pectin (like apples) with fruits that have more juice (like citrus) can create great flavors and still have the desired consistency. 

Start by washing the fruits and cutting away any bruised areas. Combine the pieces into a blender and puree until smooth — it may be necessary to add water or juice, but do so sparingly. Be sure to taste the mixture before moving on to the drying portion. Purees that are too tart can be augmented using honey, but avoid using granulated sugar if possible. Once the puree tastes the way you want, coat your drying tray lightly with vegetable oil to prevent sticking, then pour on your mixture. Drying the leather is similar to drying most other fruits. 

dehydrating food tomatoes

Above: Dehydrated tomatoes can be pulverized into powder, and later reconstituted with water.

Vegetables

Vegetables aren’t as forgiving as fruit when it comes to dehydration. Special care needs to take place in order to maximize the effectiveness of the process. Many vegetables will require the extra step of blanching. Blanching is similar to steaming; this is a process to break down (soften) the cell wall of the vegetable, which will allow moisture to escape more easily during the dehydration process. See the sidebar for the blanching process. 

DIY Soupbase

Above: Blanching is an extra step needed for some vegetables to dehydrate properly.

Vegetables that should be blanched include artichoke, asparagus, green beans, carrots, celery, corn, eggplant, peas, and potatoes — this isn’t an all-inclusive list, but more of a guideline. Beets, onions, garlic, peppers, and mushrooms (we know this isn’t a vegetable, but the process is close enough) are some of the vegetables that don’t require blanching. 

Blanching

  1. Prepare the vegetables by washing, removing any bruised portions, and cutting to desired size.
  2. Have a large bowl of ice water available, a slotted spoon, and a drying area.
  3. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil.
  4. Place the vegetables into the boiling water for about 30
    seconds, or until tender.
  5. Remove the vegetables and immediately submerge them into the ice water to stop the cooking process.
  6. Once the vegetables are cooled, remove them from the water and place them on the drying area. You can pat them dry before moving them to the dehydrator.

Delicate greens such as lettuce and arugula don’t take well to dehydrating, but others such as kale, spinach, and chard are heartier and dehydrate well. Making kale chips from a harvest is a great way to get fiber into your diet. These don’t require blanching. 

Aside from blanching, the process is similar to fruit. Place the uniform pieces onto the drying tray, set it to 135 degrees F and forget it for at least six to 12 hours. You can check that the vegetables are fully dried by trying to snap a piece between your fingers — if it bends, leave it in longer. 

dehydrating vegetables

Above: Blanching is an extra step needed for some vegetables to dehydrate properly.

Many of the vegetables can be ground into a powder, such as tomatoes. Peppers, particularly hot ones, are excellent in powdered form, and can be used as a flavoring agent by themselves or mixed with salt and other dry seasonings to bring a dish to flavor town. 

Herbs & Flowers

Having a fully stocked spice cabinet can help break the food monotony often found during trying times. Therefore, you should have several pounds of salt in storage, but also plenty of different herbs. The process of dehydrating herbs depends on the size of the leaf. Broad-leafed herbs such as basil and sage require you to split the leaf down the middle, along the stem. This allows air to penetrate the leaf more easily and makes drying time quicker. Small-leaf herbs such as thyme and rosemary can be dried directly on the stem. This will prevent the leaves from flying around in the dehydrator with the air current. Once dry, the leaves will come off the stems easily. As with all the other methods, wash the herbs prior to dehydrating them. 

dehydrating herbs

Broad-leaf herbs may require up to 24 hours to dry while others may be finished in three to four hours. It’s important to check these periodically. If the leaves or stems bend, they aren’t ready. If they snap or crack, they should be good to go. Herbs require the lowest temperature setting of the dehydrator, or roughly 95 degrees F, and should be dried by themselves, separate from fruits and vegetables. Drying herbs concentrates their flavor and potency, so bear this in mind when using them to cook. You may need less than you think. 

dehydrating food spices

Above: Herbs can be dried, making for a longer-lasting and more flavorful addition to your meals.

Another method to dry herbs is to suspend them in bunches in a cool dark place, like a basement or pantry. Use a rubber band to keep the bunches together as they dry. Dry time will vary based on the environment and the size of the herb. Areas with high humidity may face mold issues, so be aware of that. 

Meats

Preserving meats through drying is an ancient art. Archeologists have found dried meats in Egyptian tombs dating back to 3200 B.C. — probably a little past the “best by” date. The modern equivalent is the ever-popular gas station snack: jerky. Jerky can be made from practically any meat — beef, pork, chicken, turkey, wild birds, and some fish all produce a good product. The process for dehydrating meats is similar to vegetables and fruits, however the temperature is set much higher at 160 degrees F. 

dehydrating food dove

Above: Each piece of dove jerky is one dove breast, making perfect two-bite morsels.

Using your preferred cut of meat, begin by slicing it into uniform pieces and removing as much fat as possible, since fatty meat will spoil in storage much quicker. Cut across the grain to make the jerky easier to break apart and chew when finished. Try to keep slices about ¼- to 3/8-inch thick. You can use a simple spice rub if desired or marinate the meat. Check this recipe for Dove Jerky from RECOILweb.com that can be used for other meats as well.

Dove Jerky

  • Dove breasts (the more the better)
  • ¾ cup Worcestershire sauce
  • ½ cup soy sauce
  • ½ cup Dr. Pepper
  • 1½ tsp. black pepper
  • 1 tsp. onion powder
  • 1 tsp. garlic powder

Special equipment: food dehydrator

Mix all ingredients in a large Ziploc bag. Add the breasts and place in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours. Pat them dry before placing them on your dehydrator. Set the dehydrator to 160 degrees F and allow several hours for dehydration. Dove jerky can be stored in plastic bags or Tupperware for several weeks.

See recoilweb.com for more Dove Recipies.

Jerky guns are another method to make jerky. This takes ground meats and lays them onto the dehydrator trays for a precise size and consistency. Choose ground meats that are low in fat, or about 85- to 90-percent lean. This is a great way to use game birds like dove that are low in fat and combine them with fattier meats like beef. Venison, bison, and turkey are also excellent choices for the jerky gun application. This method’s product is easier to chew than the sliced variety. It can also be less expensive if you’re using store-bought meats. 

Dehydrating meat is a great way to extend the shelf life and produce a tasty snack. One slight downside is that it’s difficult to incorporate jerky into other foods. It’s mostly a stand-alone food instead of a recipe additive, but if the situation is dire, no one will complain about jerky as a protein source. It’s also important to note that meats such as pork, chicken, or turkey should be precooked and processed to limit the chances of salmonella. Some even recommend putting the finished jerky in the oven at 165 degrees F for 30 minutes just to be on the safe side. 

Dehydrating Food: Using Your Bounty

The fruits you dehydrate can be eaten by themselves as a quick snack — our favorite is dehydrated apples sprinkled with cinnamon — but they really lend themselves well to incorporation into other meals. Many prepared individuals keep oats in their preps; adding your dehydrated fruits to oatmeal will give more flavor and nutrients to otherwise bland food. Dehydrated fruits can be rehydrated and cooked into pie fillings or added to bread and muffins (like bananas). You’re only limited by your imagination. 

dehydrating food butcher block

Above: Dehydrated soup greens create an easily prepared meal for the field and weigh next to nothing.

Dehydrated vegetables are excellent additions to soups and stews, either at home or in the field. You also get the fiber and nutrient bonus that many prepackaged or canned foods lack. Beyond soups, these vegetables can be added to casseroles, sauces, and even bread. See the sidebar for our DIY Dehydrated Soup Base recipe, as previously featured on OFFGRIDweb.com. 

DIY Dehydrated Soup Base

  • 1¾ cup water
  • 1 chicken bouillon cube (or your desired flavor)
  • 1 cup soup mix (adjust amounts to what’s available or preferred tastes)
  • Dehydrated onion
  • Dehydrated carrot
  • Dehydrated bell pepper
  • Dehydrated kale and chard mix
  • Dehydrated tomato powder
  • Pinch of pepper
  • Pinch of garlic powder

Begin to heat water and add bouillon. As water heats, add soup mix and garlic powder. Boil for 10 minutes covered, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and let steep for another five to 10 minutes. Stir and add pepper (and/or other spices) to taste and enjoy. This recipe can be prepared beforehand by adding all ingredients to a plastic bag for easy transport — just pour into a cup and add hot water.

For a thorough step-by-step guide to making dry soup base, see this Dehydrated Soup Base Guide on OFFGRIDweb.

Using herbs is pretty straightforward. Apply them to make food taste better. Keeping salt, pepper, and popular condiments in your stockpile can help make the difference between choking something down or feeling satiated and content. Combining herbs to make blends is a smart move for tailoring food to your specific taste. 

Turning meat into jerky is a satisfying endeavor and enjoying the protein-packed fruit of your labor is worth the time spent. Homemade jerky will help keep you away from excessive sodium and preservatives found in the expensive store-bought varieties, and it lets you exercise your own judgment in the flavor. Jerky is a great on-the-go snack that has a place in anyone’s bugout bag. 

dehydrating food soup base

Above: Storage can be as easy as a mason jar and reusable lid.

Storing all of your hard work is similar to typical food storage best practices. Keep dehydrated foods in an airtight container and away from light. Mason jars with an added oxygen absorber and a vacuum seal attachment are our go-to, but Tupperware or a simple Ziploc bag can work too. These dehydrated goods should be rotated into your weekly routine, so they won’t stay in the pantry too long. 

Closing and Other Considerations When Dehydrating Food

Dehydrating food is a great way to prevent surplus calories from being wasted and extending the shelf life for future use. Dehydrating your own herbs can also be a great way to save money, as some off-the-shelf spices can be awfully expensive compared to growing your own and preserving them. Even growing a little bit of your own food is a great step toward living a more prepared life, but being able to preserve that food is an often-overlooked next step. Dehydration is a simple procedure that doesn’t require as much time, effort, and investment as canning. The end result may not last as long as a canned product, but it does offer you a smorgasbord of tasty treats. 

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OFFGRID 44 Editor’s Letter: How Handy Are You?

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I ask because I am not. Period. Full-stop. As the editor of a survival magazine, it’s a bit of a skeleton in my closet that I don’t spend Saturday afternoons building my own rainwater collectors, smelting metal in my backyard forge, or freezing bricks of my signature pemmican. Like most of you, I imagine, I keep a couple cases of bottled water, MREs, batteries, and other sundries around, and I take as many training classes as my budget and schedule will allow to try and fill in the gaps. 

We’ve spent a lot of time in the last couple of issues focusing on inherently urban aspects of survival. But the weather is warming up and many people are heading outdoors, whether to a secluded family cabin, beach house, or a campsite in the middle of some state or national park. Spending time in the wilderness is good for the soul, but it also means separating yourself from many of the survival assets built into your daily routine and the conveniences of urban life. 

So, we’re taking this issue to focus on self-sustainability. Even if remote summer vacations aren’t your thing, there are a number of situations where being able to do it yourself could make all the difference. Maybe a short-term disruption — like a power outage or storm — lasts longer or hits harder than expected. Maybe you parse out some of your cached supplies to friends, family, or neighbors to tide them over, and now your stock is looking a little thin. Maybe you’re on a business trip or luxury getaway and, while it’s not exactly anywhere remote, you may have to make do with whatever’s in your luggage when disaster strikes. 

Regardless of the scenario, the ability to generate your own survival equipment or supplies is handy at worst and life-saving at best. So, we’ve included a number of home-preparedness projects that include both tools and consumables. Mike Searson walks us through his experience with a slam-fire pipe shotgun, and Forrest Cooper attempts to home-brew smoke signals from grocery store ingredients. Elsewhere in this issue, Alexander Crown talks about dehydrating food, and Phil Meeks cultivates his own fruit. 

If you do plan on being outward-bound this summer, Patrick McCarthy brings us two timely roundups: one on binoculars and the other on packable water filters. Plus, Patrick Diedrich shares his professional forestry experience to give us a lesson on how to properly fell a tree. We round out our feature set with two outside-the-box topics: using practical landscaping as part of a property defense plan, and potential uses for marijuana in a preparedness context. 

Whatever your natural aptitude for DIY projects of any kind, we hope this issue gives you some food for thought, and some ideas for small projects you may want to undertake on your own for fun and preparedness. As always, stay safe and stay ready. 

Dank Robber Chest Rig Review: Unobtanium Gear

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The arc of development, for skillsets and equipment, eventually reaches a point where, instead of adding more features, the process starts trimming down to the minimum necessary elements to complete the task. The phrase, “everything you need, nothing you don't” has travelled through more than one special operations unit, and it differs from the minimalism of backpackers in that some things cannot be accomplished by a multitool. The Dank Robber chest rig by Unobtanium Gear represents this principle in load-bearing gear by combining distinctly capable capacity with a distinct lack of bulk.

Primarily constructed of elastic, the Dank Robber carries 3 rifle-type magazines, and has 3 pouches that take pistol mags, flashlights, multitools, or a small knife. Flanking the body, on the left there's a purpose-built radio attachment point, and on the right, a spot to carry a smoke canister or contained medical kit. Threaded into the bottom, two bungee chords loops for a TQ for a complete kit.

Unobtanium Gear lists the rifle mag sleeves as 5.56 pouches, but they will take AK mags. PCC mags such as for a B&T APC9K, however, slip through the opening in the bottom so they'll be restricted to the pistol pouches. The Dank Robber's primary mode of retention is the elastic, which effectively contains the loadout. Blades will require some DIY ingenuity to keep the sheath from sliding out with the knife. The Toor Knives/Haley Strategic Darter ships with a Ulticlip which does the trick.

Above: B&T APC9/GHM9 mags, Toor Knives/Haley Strategic Darter, Veil Solutions Baofeng Radio, Enola Gay Orange Smoke,  and a gerber multitool. 

Fully adjustable to a one-size fits basically all configuration of cross straps and a back strap, the Dank Robber chest rig could be attached to a plate carrier via the buckles, but it's not recommended. This isn't trying to be jack of all trades itself into mastering none.

The simplicity of the kit is its strongest point. The Dank Robber fits the bill for a trunk loadout, a contained element within a get-home bag, or as a light patrolling setup. In a world full of overly military-esque nylon gear, it stands out by wasting no time with excessive attachment points or gimmicky features.

Unobtanium Gear Dank Robber Chest Rig

Colors: Black, Green, Wolf Grey, FDE, Coyote, M81 Woodland, Multicam, Multicam Black, Ranger Green
Weight: 12 ounces / 340 grams
MSRP: $90-$100 depending on color
URL: unobtainiumgear.com

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Bulletproof Vest versus Plate Carrier

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The concept of body armor, has for years generated ideas of two different types of people. On the one hand, you have the knight-in-shining-armor-to-tactical-operator historical timeline, where the person and the equipment are almost synonymous. Take, for example, the idea of the Samurai, where both the gear, and the persona come to mind. On the other hand, however, we have the example of peoples wearing body armor only in extreme circumstances, where the elevated threat is both illustrated by the other-than-normal use of a bulletproof vest. In the social milieu of the west, it seems that a plate carrier denotes the professional, where a bulletproof vest suggests more civilian applications. The social barrier between the two is rapidly shattering.

Outside of the social perception of body armor, the difference between various pieces of equipment are appropriately divided by both purpose and capability. The old ways of thinking about protective gear as being either military or civilian in nature, have fallen, and we are dealing with the aftermath, especially when it comes to the term bulletproof vest. In reality, there is no such thing, as no human-worn armor exists that can withstand any and all types of bullets.

armor express soft armor

Instead, various types of armor are rated to withstand certain types of projectiles, and as we've seen with the rise of so-called special threat plates, bigger is not always better. The scaling of what a piece of armor can withstand often results in a give and take, whether it be weight, cost, or weakness to other projectiles.

Bulletproof Vest, Sorta

The term Bulletproof Vest typically refers to soft armor: flexible layers of densely woven materials that are able to catch a bullet, so long as it is large enough and moving slow enough. The common dividing line between hard and soft armor, in regards to capacity, has been that solid plates are required to stop rifle rounds, where soft armor is capable only of stopping most pistol projectiles. There are challenges to this norm, from time to time, but generally it remains in place.

Since that is the case, the materials that constitute soft armor have been used in everything from vests to underwear. Easier to conceal by far, soft armor has been applied in under-cover situations, to robberies, to VIP's and Diplomats transportation. Not all soft armor is meant to be concealed however, as law enforcement have treated soft armor as a daily part of their uniform, with plates held in reserve for escalated situations. In light of recent events, that likely has changed across the country.

Plate Carriers

Plate Carriers, like Night Vision, have long been perceived as more offensive in nature. This may apply to their origins, as the military adopted the use of hard plates long before it reached the level of social acceptance amongst common society, but like we stated earlier, that division is beginning to blur, whether through social unrest or competitions like the Tactical Games.

ar mag pouch HSGI taco

The term Plate Carrier covers more than vests and harnesses designed as load-bearing gear for the military. At one point, calling something tactical meant it likely came in black, tan, or camo, and had MOLLE attachment points across at least the front and back panels. For simplification, plate carriers are often divided between low-profile, minimalist, and tactical, although these sub-categories continue to blur as well.

ferro concepts slickster

Generally speaking, a low-profile plate carrier is not meant to carry any additional equipment, such as firearms magazines, radios, or medical gear, although some models can accommodate these options to some degree. Minimalist Plate Carriers are those that are expecting to bear mission-essential equipment, but focus on remaining light-weight and unrestricting, such as the Crye JPC or Arbor Arms Minuteman. They are often scalable to different scenarios, and only differentiate themselves from the tactical catagory by having both features of general use and low-profile.

Arbor Arms Minuteman Cover

That leaves the tactical catagory, which as far as body armor goes, has in the past resembled the early 2000's idea of a bulletproof vest, but now typifies pieces like the Ferro Concepts FCPC, the First Spear Strandhögg, and Crye Precision's AVS System. The more recent use of semi-rigid materials has influenced this catagory most, as it has seen the greatest diversity in quality and integration.

S&S Precision Plate Frame

The S&S Precision PlateFrame Modular distinguishes itself from the pack of plate carriers in its novel interface...

In addition to the more dedicated nature of tactical plate carriers, they include special-purpose gear like the S&S Precision PlateFrame Modular, which, despite its space age-appearance, was designed for maritime applications.

Body Armor Levels

The various advancements in body armor have historically been driven by following the emergence of new threats. On the homefront, handguns were used in violent crimes much more than rifles or carbines, which drove the development of bulletproof vests to meet the need. The National Institute of Justice Body Armor Performance Standards, which are generally used as a rubric for the protective capabilities of a piece of gear, begins at NIJ IIA, which is expected to stop a 9mm bullet, moving less than 1165 feet per second, as well as a .40 S&W moving at less than 1065 feet per second.

bullet safe soft armor

Ratings of IIA, II, and IIIA all are meant to defeat rounds typically fired by handguns, from a 9mm to a .44 Magnum. The rating of III (not to be confused with IIIA) specifies rifle rounds, and level IV must be able to stop a 166 grain, .30 caliber M2 AP (armor piercing) projectile moving at 2880 feet per second according to the NIJ. Although not a part of the National Institue of Justice's standards, terms like III+ and Special Threat Plates have become more common among hard plate manufacturers and retailers. At the time of this writing, special threat plates are often described as specifically designed to defeat the common M855 “green tip” 5.56 ammunition.

For an in-depth look at various plates and their evaluations check out Body Armor 101 on RECOILweb.

Fading Away: Bulletproof Vests

So, the term Bulletproof Vest always had its limitations, and it's just as important to remember the application of such equipment never existed in a void. Instead, each piece of gear was designed to meet a specific threat common to the time, and like the use of plates, relied on an already existing medical infrastructure. A properly worn hard armor plate protects the heart, lungs, and some of the spine, balancing the cost of mobility with the trust that, if the wearer receives a gunshot wound, they will be able to survive until they reach a medical trauma center.

The use of bulletproof vests is fading away, as plate armor rises in both popularity, availability, and common understanding among the citizenry. Some of this can be thanks to the rise in plate carriers being represented in entertainment, but also correlated with multitudes of veterans from the Global War on Terror. While soft armor continues to be used in some civil applications, it is quickly being replaced by hard armor.

In this way, when considering these two types of protective gear, it is more important to identify the likely threats you will face, and base your decision on that assessment than it is to hold to the social distinction that once saw plate carriers as military gear, while the citizenry were only worthy of so-called bulletproof vests. Once that decision is made, the next step is to consider your plate carrier setup.

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Emergency Lights and Versatile Illumination

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Whether it’s a power outage, a natural or man-made disaster, or something as common as a roadside breakdown, emergency lights and power will often play a critical role in any recovery effort. Even the most basic tasks become vastly more difficult when you can’t see what you’re doing.

For emergency lighting, a battery-operated flashlight or lantern has usually been the standard. Although ordinary flashlights/lanterns are effective, many of the examples you’ll find at big-box retailers and hardware stores are bulky and inefficient. For those times when visibility is critical, you’ll need more robust and flexible lighting solutions. Enter Chip-On-Board (COB) LED technology, which packs a large quantity of highly efficient LEDs onto a small circuit board for higher light intensity and lower energy usage.

emergency lights battery

Above: Removable, rechargeable lithium battery features a power switch and LED charge status display. The battery also has a USB outlet and can be used to charge small electronic devices.

In this article, we take a look at the Clore Automotive Light-N-Carry Rechargeable COB LED Lights, and examine the capabilities of these powerful, multi-function tools for emergency lighting and backup power.

The Storm

In early September 2017, Hurricane Irma, a Category 5 storm, was making its way toward the Florida Peninsula. Bringing catastrophic winds and monstrous 20-foot coastal surges, Irma was leaving a trail of death and destruction all along the Caribbean.

As the outermost bands of winds started battering my family’s home, we anxiously waited to see what path Irma would take. Fortunately for heavily populated Miami-Dade, Broward, and Palm Beach counties, which are home to well over 6-million people, Irma took a turn, and we avoided a direct hit. The folks along parts of the Florida Keys and the West Coast of Florida weren’t so lucky. Before it was over, Hurricane Irma would claim well over 100 lives, 72 of which were in the state of Florida, and cost well over $50 billion.

emergency lighting

Back in my neck of the woods, although we had missed a direct strike, we still had plenty of problems. Many roads were covered in storm debris, downed trees, and power lines. But worse yet, lots of folks in South Florida (including yours truly) would be without power for many weeks as utility crews worked day and night to clear debris, repair powerlines, and restore service one block at a time.

Lights Out

The moment the lights go out, everything changes. And the longer you’re without power, the more difficult the situation becomes. If it’s just a few hours, you’ll probably be able to make do with whatever lights (or candles) you have on-hand. But for the long-term, you’ll need much more. For Irma, we had headlamps, flashlights, and lanterns, but as the days wore on, we began to realize that our equipment was seriously lacking. We were also running through batteries a lot quicker than anticipated, and not producing nearly the amount of light we needed. While we managed to get by, one thing became painfully obvious: We wanted better lighting options, lights that would be powerful enough to illuminate an entire room and could easily be adjusted and repositioned as conditions changed. We also wanted rechargeable lights, thereby minimizing our dependency on disposable batteries. While lighting preps usually don’t get as much attention as water, food, or security/self-defense, this is one of those things that you just can’t afford to neglect.

Above: Clore’s heavy-duty housing incorporates reinforced corners and a protective rubber bumper casing for impact resistance.

We also realized that we would need a way to recharge our cell phones and other small electronic devices. During an emergency, smartphones can be used to monitor weather conditions/advisories, and to communicate with friends and family. The battery backups we had for our phones only got us so far — we knew we could do much better. 

(For more tips on how to use a fully charged cell phone or tablet for survival during a crisis, see our review of 10 Emergency Apps for iOS and Android in RECOIL OFFGRID Issue 29.)

The Aftermath

For us, it would be almost 10 days before the power was fully restored. The storm itself was challenging, but it only lasted a few hours. The aftermath, including those brutal days without power, tested all of our plans, preparations, and gear. We needed to make improvements.

As soon as things got back to normal, I started looking for ways to upgrade our emergency lighting and power backup options. In reality, whether it’s a natural or man-made crisis, emergency lighting matters. With this in mind, we knew that any gear we considered would need to have the following features:

  • High-lumen output, low energy consumption LEDs
  • Cool to the touch, even after extended use
  • Rechargeable, swappable batteries 
  • Rugged, lightweight, and portable (impact and weather resistant)
  • Capable of charging other small electronic devices.

Storage Considerations

We recommend staging supplies, including portable lighting, in a number of key locations throughout the house as well as in your vehicles. This accounts for two needs: 

1. Proximity. Vital gear is always close at hand no matter what part of the house you find yourself in.

2. Risk management and loss mitigation. If you put all your eggs in one basket and your only stockpile is affected by wind/flood/fire or some other version of crisis-related damage, you could end up losing some, or all, of your supplies.

Clore Light-N-Carry

Clore is a company that specializes in the design, development, and manufacture of automotive service equipment for professionals and consumers. They’re probably best known for their Jump-N-Carry Starters, battery chargers/testers, and power inverters. But the folks at Clore also have an extensive lineup of powerful, portable, rechargeable lighting products. The new Light-N-Carry work lights seemed to have many of the features we were looking for. After careful consideration, we focused on four Light-N-Carry products that we felt were especially well-suited not only for crisis planning and preparation, but also for everyday use.

  • LNC2251 1,500 Lumen Flood Light
  • LNC2551 4,000 Lumen Flood Light
  • LNC1541 500 Lumen Work Light 
  • LNC7250 Lenexa Headlamp

At the heart of each of these products is the modern Chip-On-Board (COB) LED technology. COB lights are brighter, consume less power, and produce a higher intensity beam of light compared to older dual inline package (DIP) and surface-mount device (SMD) LED technologies. In essence, you get more light from a smaller unit with lower power consumption.

Above: The LNCPOD is a four-legged, adjustable, tubular steel platform that provides exceptional stability and can support up to four lights. 

While each product has its own set of unique features, all excel at producing powerful illumination, long run times, and easy recharging. The two Flood Lights (2551 and 2251) also feature a pair of powerful, rechargeable batteries that also function as a USB power bank to charge small electronic devices. Below is a summary of the four products we tested.

Light-N-Carry LNC2551 (Flood)

With two removable batteries and a maximum output of 4,000 lumens, it can easily light up an entire large room. On the medium setting (1,500lm — which is still plenty bright), we consistently got a bit over eight hours of runtime with the two batteries included. But, besides producing an incredible amount of light, the LNC2551 runs cool. The swivel arm and magnetic mounts allow the unit to be positioned in a variety of different ways, depending on the environment and the needs at hand. And at 3.7 pounds, the LNC2551 is about half the weight of a standard 1,000-lumen camping-style lantern powered by D batteries. The COB LED also features IP64 dust/water protection. All in all, a very powerful package, and a great light to keep at home or in a vehicle.

clore automotive light-n-carry

Expect to pay approximately $150, although shopping around can often get you a better deal. Many other manufacturers sell high-lumen LED lights at lower prices, but in order to do a true price comparison, you have to compare construction, runtime, and durability, not just lumens. Clore gets top marks for building a very solid product. If you’re willing to pay for quality, the higher price point makes sense. If you use the rechargeable batteries to charge other electronic devices, or run the unit at full power, expect the batteries to drain much faster. With two batteries, however, you have the option of charging one battery while you use the other.  

Note: For additional mounting options, Clore offers the LNCPOD, a four-legged, tubular steel platform that’s fully adjustable and provides exceptional stability supporting up to four lights.

At a Glance:

  • Three intensity settings: 4,000/1,500/1,000lm 
  • Four hours of runtime on Med output setting
  • 180-degree swivel arm for both fixed and magnetic mounting options
  • Rechargeable/removable lithium battery, which also serves as a portable power supply with a 1A USB outlet to charge small electronic devices
  • LED battery status display (this comes in very handy)
  • Includes two batteries, a wall charger, and a braided charging cord
  • Grip-Tech housing for improved grip and impact resistance
  • IP64 dust/water protection

Light-N-Carry LNC2251 (Flood)

The LNC2251 is the smaller version of the LNC2551. While the maximum amount of light drops down to 1,500lm, the LNC2251 uses the same size rechargeable batteries and has all the same features, just at a lower lumen count — 1,500/1,000/500lm. Weighing in at 2.8 pounds, the LNC2251 proves that size doesn’t always matter. (If portability isn’t your first concern, I’d probably spend the extra bucks and get the more powerful LNC2551.)

emergency lights flood

Above: The Light-N-Carry 2251 flood light combines COB technology, high lumen output, a removable, rechargeable battery, and a dust/water-resistant housing.

Expect to pay approximately $125 if you shop around. Since the LNC2251 is a smaller version of the LNC 2551, the same comments above apply here. 

At a Glance:

  • Three intensity settings: 1,500/1,000/500lm 
  • Four hours of runtime on the high output setting
  • 180-degree swivel arm for both fixed and magnetic mounting options
  • Rechargeable/removable lithium battery, which also serves as a portable power supply with a 1A USB outlet to charge small electronic devices
  • LED battery status display
  • Includes two batteries, a wall charger, and a braided charging cord
  • IP64 dust/water protection

Light-N-Carry LNC1541 (Work Light)

The LNC1541 is the smallest handheld light on our list. With a maximum lumen output of 500lm, the LNC1541 is designed to be handheld or mounted/hung and used to illuminate smaller spaces. The unit features a rechargeable battery and produces 500/150/60lm. Weighing in at 0.9 pound, the LNC1541 can easily be carried in a pocket or a small bag, making it one of our favorite lights to use around the house and to keep in the car. It’s powerful, affordable, fits just about anywhere, and has a ton of features. I can also see throwing this light in a bug-out bag or a toolkit.

work light

Above: This 500-Lumen LED work light is coupled with a 60-lumen focused beam and features a swivel handle with magnetic mounting.

This model will cost approximately $40, slightly above competitors’ products but more in line with what one would expect to pay for this sort of light. The battery is built in and can’t be swapped out, which was a disappointment considering how easy it was to swap out batteries on the LNC2251 and the LNC2551. Swappable batteries would’ve been really helpful on this model — maybe something for the folks at Clore to consider for future upgrades.

At a Glance:

  • Two intensity settings: 500/150lm 
  • Surface-Mount Device (SMD) LED focus beam setting: 60lm
  • Four hours of runtime on high output setting
  • 180-degree swivel arm for both fixed and magnetic mounting options (also includes a hang-hook)
  • IP54 dust/water protection
  • Grip-Tech chemical-resistant housing
  • LED battery status display
  • Includes a wall charger and a braided Micro-USB charging cord

Light-N-Carry LNC7250 (Lenexa)

The LNC7250 is a headlamp with various mounting options. With a maximum of 250lm, the LNC7250 provides a convenient lighting option for small, close-up work, or as a backup when using more robust lighting. It also has some very cool features such as the M-Lock magnetic mounting system and touchless wave on/off. With 200lm CREE LED Spotlight and 250lm COB LED Floodlight output, the LNC7250 produces a respectable amount of light from a very small and lightweight package. 

lenoxo headlamp

Above: The Lenexa Hands-Free Light is rechargeable and offers a motion-activated wave on/off mode for touchless operation.

Expect to spend around $50. This was my least favorite light of the bunch, although I’m not really a big fan of headlamps in general. I also felt that it offered the least value for the money. With all the mounting options and higher lumen count, I felt that the LNC1541 provided superior performance for less money. I realize that I’m comparing two very different lights, and that in certain situations a headlamp can provide lots of benefits, but if I had to pick one, I would go with the LNC1541.

At a Glance:

  • Two settings: 200lm Spot/250lm Flood
  • Four hours of runtime on high output setting
  • 180-degree rotation of the housing structure
  • Includes head strap, belt clip, and features an action mount magnetic (M-Lock) system
  • IP54 dust/water protection
  • Touchless Wave on/off
  • 18650 lithium battery with Micro-USB charging (charging cord included)

Conclusion

Emergency lights and power are a crucial, but often overlooked, component of any viable survival plan. Not only were these products effective in producing high-lumen, high-quality light, but they also offer emergency backup power for small electronics. We especially liked the LNC2551 and LNC2251 for those times when you need lots of portable light. For smaller jobs, the LNC1541 quickly became our favorite go-to light. As with any other purchase, cost is always a consideration. Make sure to shop around — we did a quick search and found many retailers offering discounts. We got these lights to fortify our emergency preps, but we find ourselves using them all the time. 

clore automotive jump

Above: Rather than relying on jumper cables and assistance from another vehicle, the JNCXFE and JNCAIR battery starters allow you to jump-start an engine by yourself.

Disasters often challenge our plans and force us to reevaluate our choices. In this case, the lessons learned will help my family be better prepared for just about any low-light crisis situation. 

Source 

Clore Automotive: cloreautomotive.com

About the Author

Richard is an urban survival consultant, writer, and firearms enthusiast. He’s the author of Surviving Doomsday: A Guide for Surviving an Urban Disaster, and The Quick Start Guide for Urban Preparedness. For the latest preparedness news and updates, connect with Richard on quickstartsurvival.com.

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Handheld and Weapon Mounted Light Techniques

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Why do things go bump in the night? Why do werewolves change at the full moon? Why are vampires allergic to sunlight? The short answer is it’s easier to do evil deeds after nightfall. By the time the sun is completely down, most people are tired, relaxed, full-bellied from dinner, and getting ready for bed. There’s less light, generally less traffic (both vehicle and pedestrian), and it’s colder. If you have ill intentions, you’re unlikely to be seen and even less likely to be paid attention to. According to an article published by The Sleep Judge, based on 2017 crime reports from several selected cities, more than half of violent crimes occur at nighttime. We gleaned the following highlights from their data:

  • 65 percent of murders and nonnegligent manslaughters (for the cities polled) occurred at night, with a peak hour of 9 p.m.
  • 59 percent of rapes and sexual assaults occurred at night, with a peak hour of 12 a.m.
  • Robbery, motor vehicle theft, and assault all have occurrence rates of 50 percent or greater at night, sharing a peak hour of 8 p.m.

The source article goes into more depth, but these tidbits give us some great context to discuss the importance of low light tactics. To get ourselves properly “enlightened” on the topic, we took a two-day low-light shoot-house course taught jointly by Don Edwards of Greenline Tactical and John Dufresne of Kinetic Consulting. Both are veterans of the 75th Ranger Regiment, and their combined backgrounds include executive protection, professional mentor/consulting experience, as well as time spent in Special Forces and Asymmetric Warfare Group. While they both teach a number of classes separately, they joined forces to teach a weekend-long class that dealt specifically with the use of white lights in enclosed spaces for self-defense and duty purposes. 

carbine light wml weapon mounted light

Point and Click

Buying a capable flashlight (a term we’ll define in greater detail below) isn’t the end of your journey to combating nighttime vulnerability. It’s the beginning. This is a common misconception and one that even yours truly once fell victim to. But the first time you use your 1,000-plus-lumen flashlight to search your house and hit the bathroom mirror or a glass sliding door at face level, you’ll realize that maybe there are some nuances to white light employment. We learned a couple of techniques from the Greenline/Kinetic team that were very helpful for us in navigating the dark. 

If you have a light in your hand, and if you’re searching for potential threats, it’s instinct to point your light directly at anything that may signify said threat. Furthermore, many historical “tactical” light techniques (Harries, Rogers, syringe, FBI, etc.) require the light be placed in line with the muzzle of your weapon (and therefore your eyeball). While the logic of that makes sense on the surface — putting maximum lumens directly in front of your eye’s light sensors — handheld and weapon-mounted lights have evolved to such high output levels that legacy techniques sometimes shortchange the end user of important capabilities.

flashlight techniques

Above: The power to punch through and around barriers (like windows and door pillars) is an important quality in any light, weapon-mounted or handheld, that will be used in a defensive context.

Baseboard Lighting

This technique is applicable to both handheld and weapon-mounted lights, but we’re going to focus on the latter for now. When searching a dark structure, it’s common practice to conduct your entire search with your weapon at full extension and either search through your optic or look through (or slightly over) your sights. If you have a pistol or carbine in front of your face when you turn on that light, target acquisition is easy since the light is directed parallel to the barrel of your gun, directly where you intend to put your bullets. But target identification can be hindered by two factors: having the weapon itself in your sight line, and having your light focused directly at the other person’s head/shoulders/upper thoracic cavity. Those are great areas to put bullets, but if you can’t see their hands, you’ll have a difficult time discerning whether or not they need to receive bullets. If the person’s hands are below their sternum, seeing them through or over the top of your sights will be impeded by your weapon, especially a carbine or shotgun, and you may not be able to determine if they’re holding a weapon or carrying one in their waistband. Furthermore, the configuration of your light could compound the problem. Some flashlights have a very intense center hotspot with little to no spill (residual light that surrounds the focused portion of the beam). If your light has high output with a very tight beam, you still may not see those hands or that weapon, even if you’re using a handheld light at eye level with no gun. 

One of the solutions put out by Dufresne was what he referred to as baseboard lighting. As the name implies, you aim your light slightly below your eye line, aiming it at the baseboard where the wall in front of you meets the floor. This allows you to fully use your light’s beam pattern, both hot spot and spill. Even if your light has that really tight pattern, baseboarding will induce some reflection off of both surfaces (floor and wall) and scatter the light a little more evenly over a wider area. From the perspective of room searching/clearing, this also prevented us from having tunnel-vision through our red dot, and increased overall situational awareness when entering rooms with unknown threats inside. For those worried about reaction or engagement times, we found the change in weapon position to be very small — think holding the muzzle at shoulder height instead of eyeball height. This technique does not require a 45-degree SWAT-style low ready to work. In addition to lighting more of the immediate area more effectively, baseboard lighting has the added benefit of aiming the hot spot of your light directly at the waistline and lower abdomen of anybody you may find in front of you. So even if someone’s hands are down at their sides, they’re hiding one hand behind their thigh to hide a weapon, or they’re trying to get a weapon out of a pocket or holster, you’ll see it almost immediately. 

baseboard lighting technique WML

Above: The “baseboard lighting” technique is an alternative to direct lighting that puts softer, ambient light on the target.

Umbrella Lighting    

Opposite baseboard lighting is umbrella lighting. As the name implies, this technique involves bouncing the light over you. This could be shining the light straight up on the ceiling, or using a high corner to take advantage of the wall/ceiling junction. If you’re a hard-core high-ready gun carrier (pistol or carbine), this may be more natural for you than baseboard lighting. 

We found this technique serves us especially well in two situations. One is using a handheld light in conjunction with a pistol. The other is trying to get an immediate picture of an entire room, particularly a larger one, as opposed to being engaged in a focused, methodical search. In both cases, holding the light at a temple index or even slightly behind our head and angling the light to a far high corner produced a great general lighting effect with the particular lights we were using. But light output, beam pattern, existing ambient light, ceiling height/angle, and room size will all affect your results. 

A Note on Strobing

The idea of strobing your light, whether using a built-in strobe function or manually clicking your light on and off rapidly, seems to have cyclical recurrence in various professional circles. Dufresne and Edwards both advise against this technique. To paraphrase Dufresne, strobing or blinking your light during a room search is forcing your brain to take in data, process it, lose it, and then regain an altered set of data over and over again. If you or someone else in the room are moving quickly, the picture your brain receives is going to be different every time the light comes on, much like watching a stop-motion animation or low-framerate video. It also forces your pupils to constrict and dilate rapidly to compensate for sudden, severe, repeated changes in the lighting conditions. These combined factors can increase mental and physical fatigue, and decrease situational awareness, especially during multi-room or full-structure searches. 

A Better Mousetrap

The science that goes into building a high-performance light could be several articles all by itself. But we had an opportunity during our class to speak with Sean McCauley, one of the owners of Cloud Defensive, who attended this class. We took a little time between shoot-house runs to pick his brain about some commonly tossed around light specs and what makes Cloud’s designs unique in the market.

offensive and defensive use of a WML

Above: The effects of white light are both offensive and defensive. Not only does the light reveal your adversary, but it conceals you from them as well.

OFFGRID: Most tactical flashlights are marketed by the number of lumens they put out. More recently, candela ratings have been introduced into these conversations. What’s the difference between lumens and candela, and what do they provide for the end user?

SEAN MCCAULEY: For years, the flashlight industry has been engaged in a race to get more lumen output out of the flashlight. Technology has improved, and that’s great for the end user. But the reality is the manufacturers haven’t historically cared about the actual performance of the light. Rather, they engaged in a “space-race” for lumens and the users got the benefit of brighter and brighter lights. But for weapon-based applications, that’s not inherently valuable. And the biggest need of all from a weapon-mounted standpoint was never addressed until Cloud Defensive brought that conversation to the forefront. And that is the conversation about candela.

When you talk about weapon-based lighting applications, and in particular carbine-based applications, you absolutely have to understand three critical things: 1) The amount of light (lumen output) that comes out of the emitter itself is correlated to performance, but in no way does it guarantee usable light on target. 2) From a performance standpoint, what matters to the shooter the most is how much light is actually on the target. The candela rating gives insight into how far you will throw light downrange.

By definition, candela is a standardized measurement of light concentration. Think of candela as a function of focusing your lumen output so you can throw light toward a target rather than disperse it into the universe. The good news here is that we are having this discussion and weapon-mounted lights are now being judged based on how usable they are in weaponized applications. Bright lights are only cool if they work for you. “Can I see my target? Can I get Positive ID on this target? Is there enough usable “spill” around the hot spot on this light to ensure I am situationally aware so I can determine whether I am going to fire or not?” That is what a weapon light is supposed to do for you. A high candela rating gives you that capability. You can create usable spill from high candela, but you cannot create high candela from spill.

Let’s talk light temperature. Much less talked about, especially in technical terms, what is light temperature and how does it affect the end user? 

SM: The temperature of the light coloration is an interesting conversation. We have this conversation because early LED technology was pretty poor by today’s standards. You may remember seeing bluish colored lights in the early days of the LED, which were a far cry from the warmer coloration of the incandescent bulbs we were all used to at the time. The difference was so pronounced that people to this day still desire that warmer color in a light. And for good reason — it’s superior. Most flashlight manufacturers choose light temperatures in the 5,000 to 6,500k range. Those are cooler, more whitish-blue lights. That 5,000 to 6,500k range gives the appearance of being brighter in certain applications. Again though, we are talking about weapon-mounted applications here and those cooler temperatures bring operational liabilities. So, Cloud Defensive uses a 4,000k light temperature for some very specific reasons.

umbrella lighting WML

Above: “Umbrella lighting” is another way to bounce light off a surface to light up a broad area instead of a point. 

First of all, when you are talking about weapon-mounted lights, you are generally talking about using them in less-than-ideal environments. One of the most common challenges these lights face is everything in the atmosphere between you and the target, from smoke to dust to humid air. When there is particulate present in the air, it blocks the photons from getting to the target, and as such, these are often called photonic barriers. Some barriers are more defeatable than others. Light temperature absolutely dictates how your light will perform in these adverse conditions. 

5,000 to 6,500k lights are whiter/bluer lights. While the photons still proceed downrange, the whiter nature of the light actually causes more disruption to the shooter because more of that bright white light is reflected back at you when it hits photonic barriers. If you need a practical example of this, think about running your high beams on your car in thick fog. The high beams create a lot of disruption to the driver in that instance. Not unlike what happens when you “white-wall” yourself with one of the 5,000 to 6,500k lights in a shoot-house environment. It’s problematic. Our 4,000k temperature solves this issue. It allows the shooter to better defeat those photonic barriers. It pushes the light downrange and is significantly less disruptive to the shooter while being incredibly punishing to the target. (Editor’s note: To continue the automotive example, this is why many cars have warm white or yellow-tinted fog lights.)

Another fun fact about the 4,000k range LED is it will better defeat other lights. And weapon lights absolutely have to be able to defeat other lights. Maybe you are in a dark room and need to push light through a bright space into a different dark room. Or perhaps you are on the street and need to push light through a streetlight (very challenging, by the way) into a window of a dark house. Those are times when your light coloration and your candela rating will either save you or render your light unable to perform in that critical moment. 4,000k is better in those situations. And that statement is absolutely demonstrable. 4,000k is also far superior when you need to defeat tinted glass on vehicles as well. It punches through in ways the 5,000 to 6,500k lights do not, and again is less disruptive to the shooter.

One other very useful benefit to 4,000k is that it helps your human eyes distinguish colors from longer distances. So, if you need to be able to tell a blue sweatshirt from a green sweatshirt at, say 200 yards, the 4,000k is going to better help you do that. Why do other manufacturers use 5,000 to 6,500k? Because it’s the way it has always been done, and dogma is powerful. Cooler light temps also appear brighter at times. But 4,000k is just flat-out a better performer for weapon-based applications, and Cloud is absolutely leading that charge.

Tools of the Train(ing)

This class was held at the Midwest Threat Assessment Center (MTAC) in Muncie, Indiana. The facility itself is one of the better-designed shoot houses we’ve ever seen, outside of military and law enforcement training compounds. It’s not live-fire rated, and runs entirely on Universal Training Munitions (UTM) marking rounds. MTAC has rental gear available, but we were able to get a replacement AR bolt and some ammunition directly from UTM for this purpose. A UTM-only shoot house offers two distinct advantages. One is that it’s ready for force-on-force training to pressure test tactics and techniques. But our course didn’t involve any force-on-force. It was strictly marking cartridges on paper. This is a great risk reducer and confidence builder for teaching less-experienced shooters complex skills like clearing rooms in multi-man teams. Shooters can be introduced to advanced problems like CQB and vehicle-based tactics, with a less-than-lethal penalty for poor marksmanship under stress. Since this is an indoor shoot-house, we were also able to practice low-light searches without having to wait until the sun went down.

As previously stated, Cloud Defensive was on-site as a sponsor of this course. They brought enough samples of their new REIN weapon lights that every student in the class could test drive one against their current lights, and also speak with two of the owners about what makes Cloud’s products unique. We took full advantage of the opportunity and ran a REIN all weekend, sometimes testing it against our handheld from another brand. The benefits of the REIN, and of Cloud’s approach to building lights, became immediately apparent. We hope Cloud offers this opportunity to their consumers more often going forward. Shining two lights against a wall is one thing. But getting to see how they perform in total darkness, mixed lighting, through fog, and in varied confined spaces, allows a thoroughly informed decision to be made. 

Many companies offer a lot of different beam patterns, from flood to spot to everything in the middle. Is one better than the other for certain tasks, or is there a ratio of spot to spill that you prefer?

SM: Beam patterns, ratios, lumens, lux, and candela numbers can get complicated fast. And if you ever want to glaze somebody’s eyes over, start talking about reflector design and the physics involved there to get what you want. The real key here is to not get too lost in those weeds, but focus on the big points and frame it in a way that is applicable to your needs. 

Beam patterns absolutely matter. But the ideal is 100-percent dependent upon what your need is. There is no one-size-fits-all beam pattern in the world of flashlights. The flashlight on your iPhone has no light concentration. It’s just an LED that is used as an admin light. Handy when you lose the remote in the couch at night. Not so much if you are trying to look 150 yards down the road in search of your lost dog. So, lights need to be thought of, generally speaking, as specialized tools. That’s not to say a handheld light can’t try to offer the best of both worlds. Some have multiple output levels. Some have adjustable beam patterns. And some just try to strike a nice balance of capability. There is an argument to be made for all of those designs. 

painting with light

Above: Beam pattern and reflector design will determine how your light “behaves” when using tactics like deep-corner lighting to light up a large, open space.

With a weapon-mounted light, the debate becomes more focused. Your performance goal with any weapon light is to put as much light on a target as you can, and to have enough usable spill around that target to be able to maintain situational awareness. 

As we’ve discussed, there are a few variables that impact your ability to do that. As a rule, you need to favor higher candela-rated lights. Anything under 50,000 candela on a rifle-mounted light is not going to push light out to rifle distances. But a weapon light with high candela at the expense of spill is not inherently useful. It doesn’t do much good to see the bad guy at 100 yards but not see his buddy 10 feet away because your light is more like a laser beam. So as a rule, you need high candela rating and high-enough lumen output that you get adequate downrange performance with both light concentration on-target and enough surrounding light for situational awareness. That’s the gold standard. 

[Photography by Real Dirty Media.]

Sources 

Midwest Threat Assessment Center > mtactraining.com
Cloud Defensive > clouddefensive.com
Kinetic Consulting > kinetic-consulting.net
Greenline Tactical > greenlinetactical.com
The Sleep Judge > thesleepjudge.com/crimes-that-happen-while-you-sleep/

More on Surviving the Dark

Arbor Arms Minuteman Plate Carrier: For the Athletic Professional

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It's strange to describe a plate carrier as athletic. For the most part, designs trend towards the tactical, like the Crye Precision JPC, or the load-bearing, like their APC system. In another direction, minimalist plate carriers sought to go light and sleek in order to fit under clothing unnoticed. Modularity demanded so much of so many different systems, as hook-and-loop, MOLLE/PALS webbing, zippers, and more competed for the limited real estate on the front, back, and cummerbund. The worst designs were the ones that dismissed the need for athleticism or propper fit, the best accommodated the athlete-professional. From what we've seen from Arbor Arms, however, appears to begin with the athlete, and built a plate carrier for those expecting to wear their body armor for extended periods of time, and through extensive feats of physical exertion.

arbor arms layout

The Arbor Arms Minuteman Plate Carrier is their take on a minimalist piece of kit. As modularity has expanded into how the cummerbund secures to the plate bags, through connectors like First Spear Tubes, AustiAlpine Cobra Buckles, Taktic Buckles, not to mention Velcro, the Minuteman gives the owner an immense amount of choice. Whether as slim as a single line of webbing, or as complete as a 3-strand elastic capable of bearing side plates and more, the Minuteman is scaleable to various scenarios, be it the professional Tactical Games athlete, or those on the line of duty.

arbor arms cummerbun

A factor not lost on Arbor Arms, is the desire for customization that many are looking for. Very little of their plate carrier forces the wearer to pick between a short suite of proprietary options. The front features a combination of hook-and-loop and MOLLE attachment space.

The cummerbund can attach to the front plate bag itself, or to an Arbor Arms placard. The elastic then pulls the whole plate carrier tighter to the wearer's body, reducing if not eliminating the bouncing of gear that would otherwise quickly tire any bearer. This is where the athleticism of the design comes to show.

arbor arms placards

One place where professionalism and physical acumen come together is how one fits in their plate carrier. A hallmark of experience between soldiers and operators looks at not only at the fighter's physical condition, but whether or not their gear is in order. A loose-fitting plate carrier quickly exhausts the wearer, and the sudden shift in weight can lead to disastrous consequences, as a mild twist of the ankle suddenly turns into a year of recovery.

arbor arms shoulderpad

The Arbor Arms Minuteman addresses this problem through its fitment and adjustability. In addition to the cummerbund, the shoulder straps are adjustable, and capture radio PPT's, Garmin 401's and more through lengthwise anchor points sewn into the base strap that also serve as a place to attach a single-point sling. Arbor Arm's Shoulder Pad Accessories are some of the most intricate we've seen in the market. While those deployed have utilized everything from chopped yoga mats, to slip on pads, to spreading a shemagh across the nape to balance weight across one's shoulder's better, these include both cable/hose management straps, and a generous but compact pad that takes the edge off a full combat load.

Arbor Arms Minuteman Plate Carrier Back Pannel

The interface between the cummerbun and rear plate bag looks complicated, but ends up providing more options for the...

What the Arbor Arms Minimalist Plate Carrier is not, however, is a ready-from-the-box plate carrier. That is a good thing, as the wearer goes through the process of fitting the various parts to his body. The ability to customize the plate carrier to the wearer requires them to take the time to fit it to themselves, and make adjustments as the pieces come together. The result: a plate carrier that feels opposite to a generic model.

Arbor Arms Minuteman

Night Vision Incorporated DTNVG's on an OpsCore FAST SF Super High Cut Balistic helmet.

One example of this, is the ability to customize the length of their multi-strand elastic cummerbunds. By setting the lowest strand one segment tighter, the bottom edge of the front plate sucks into the chest, further reducing the amount of bounce and giving the whole carrier a feeling of being supported by the Rib Cage, taking some of the pressure off the shoulders themselves. This feeling of being adhered to the rib cage, instead of being worn like a vest or pack, helps make the carrier feel more like part of the body, than something to be managed. The cummerbund has the ability to be mounted in such a way to produce two preset sizes: one for warm weather, and another to go over thicker jackets.

Arbor Arms Minuteman Ferro Roll 1

On this Minuteman: Ferro Concepts/Forward Observations Group Roll 1 Trauma Pouch.

The Arbor Arms Minuteman Plate Carrier does not feature a molle back panel, but instead has proprietary anchor points for upcoming hydration systems. The Plate Bags are “one-size-fits-most” with an integral strap to ensure shorter plates ride securely.

Closing Off

The Arbor Arms Minuteman has taken cues on what is commonly expected from a plate carrier, and added their own improvements to both the fit and features. The result is a plate carrier that can be fit to the user, while keeping away from the trap of another proprietary system. Additionally, the components play well with others, matching intuitive design with quality manufacturing.

Arbor Arms Minuteman Plate Carrier

Colors: Multicam, Coyote Brown, Ranger Green, Wolf Grey
Weight: 14.4 ounces with single strap
MSRP: $99 for the Plate Carrier, $5-150 for the Cummerbun
URL: arborarmsusa.com

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