RECOILtv: B&T Veterinary Pistol for Covert Operations

Written by

Weapons, like other tools, are often built with a specialized purpose in mind. Some, however, may have an officially-stated purpose that differs from how they're typically used. Take the icepick, for example — it might be marketed for chipping pieces off a block of ice to cool a drink, but it serves a totally different purpose on the street. The B&T VP9 Veterinary Pistol seems to fall into this category.

As the name indicates, the official purpose of the bolt-action Veterinary Pistol is to quietly euthanize animals. Its barrel includes ports to slow down a standard supersonic bullet to subsonic speed, and it comes with a matching suppressor that includes consumable discs that enhance noise reduction for the first few shots. The end result is a very quiet weapon that can put an injured animal out of its misery without alerting the nearby populace. But as you've probably guessed, it's capable of being used on more than animals.

The B&T VP9 bears a clear similarity to the Welrod pistol that was developed by the British Special Operations Executive (SOE) for use in assassination missions during WWII. Like the Welrod, the VP9 is a single-shot, bolt-action gun that's easily dismantled and concealed. In the RECOILtv video above, B&T founder Karl Brugger explains the pistol's origins, and RECOIL Editor in Chief Iain Harrison test-fires this unique weapon.

Book Review: “Visual Guide to Lock Picking, 3rd Edition”

Written by

The Premise: In Issue 32, our feature “A Look at Locks” provided an overview on common household locks, and elsewhere in our latest issue Chad McBroom did up a nice primer on lockpicking as well. In many survival, escape, resistance, evasion (SERE) courses, you’ll find that lockpicking is often a common part of the curriculum. Whether it’s defeating locks to find food, seek shelter, or escape from unlawful incarceration, there’s no denying that understanding how to bypass locking mechanisms is a critical part of survival training. The Visual Guide to Lock Picking, 3rd Edition is a good starter manual to familiarizing yourself with the anatomy of many of the most common locks you’re likely to encounter.

The 411: The information is provided in very straightforward, easy-to-understand prose. Everything is clearly explained, and a helpful glossary of common terminology is provided at the end of the book. The authors dissect how to identify warded locks, tumbler locks, combination locks, tubular locks, lever locks, and wafer locks and describes what the differences are on each category’s variations. The book also discusses how the aforementioned locking mechanisms operate and the tools and techniques used to bypass them. Each chapter contains a healthy dose of black-and-white illustrations, so the reader has numerous references to visualize the instruments and systems described. Each chapter starts out explaining the basic theory behind how each lock category works and progressively builds on information from previous chapters.

The Verdict: Will you be an experienced locksmith by the time you finish this book? No more than you’d be an experienced doctor after you graduate with a degree in medicine. The next logical step, and the book encourages this, is to experiment with various locks and gain a tactile understanding of the methods and lock types described. However, the book does a good job explaining things clearly to give the reader a baseline of how common locks work and the differences between them.

Because the Visual Guide to Lock Picking, 3rd Edition is primarily focused on portable locks, it barely touched on dead bolts. Be that as it may, it’s bereft of security countermeasures, such as strike plates, security bars, and reinforcement locks. To be a bit more idealistic, the authors would’ve earned points with us if they’d included tips on defeating security latches commonly found on hotel room doors and older homes.

We were surprised there were no descriptions of different handcuff types and would’ve liked to have seen that included. It would’ve also been helpful if they’d included a few chapters dedicated to basic automotive locks. If you’re looking for information on electronically controlled locks, you won’t find it here. That’s a whole other animal involving a greater deal of technical savvy that this book isn’t intended to address.

Also, a page at the end of the book offers a DVD or VHS version of the book and is intended to be torn out and mailed in with payment info. What’s discouraging is that the website shown on the cover of the book is no longer active and a search for “Standard Publications” doesn’t turn up any info. It makes us wonder if the company has gone out of business since the book’s 2006 copyright. No such DVD or VHS could be found through an internet search either.

The book begins and ends with disclaimers about the potential legal implications of lockpicking, but understandably doesn’t go into detail about what exactly could provoke repercussions. Since laws change over time and vary from region to region, it’s basically letting the reader know it’s incumbent on them to do the research and make sure they aren’t breaking any laws.

Book & Author
Visual Guide to Lock Picking, 3rd Edition
by Mark McCloud and Gonzalez de Santos

Publisher
Standard Publications

MSRP
$20 (Amazon)

URL
N/A

Pages
208

Rating
Thrive
> Survive
Die

OFFGRID Library of Recommended Books

Review: Nitecore HC35 and UT32 Headlamps

Written by

Nighttime visibility is paramount in any emergency situation, but so is your manual dexterity. You've probably experienced this dilemma while trying to use a handheld flashlight and work with both hands. This often leads to attempts to balance the light on nearby objects, juggle it between hands, hold it in your teeth, or pinch it between your neck and shoulder. The obvious solution is to simply get a hands-free light that aims wherever you're looking — in other words, a headlamp.

The Nitecore UT32 (top) and HC35 (bottom) are substantially different in size and purpose.

We've reviewed quite a few headlamps in the past, so we're pretty well-acquainted with features we like and those we don't. In our survival headlamp buyer's guide in Issue 27, we gave our Top Pick award to the Nitecore HC65, so when we heard about two new models from that company, we were interested to try them out. The new Nitecore HC35 and UT32 occupy two different niches within the hands-free lighting market, so we'll take a closer look at each headlamp below.

Nitecore HC35 Specs

If maximum output is what you're looking for, the Nitecore HC35 delivers. It can produce a staggering 2,700 lumens from four CREE XP-G3 S3 LEDs.

The HC35 is able to achieve this impressive output as a result of its power source, a large 21700 3.6V 4,000mAh lithium-ion battery (included). This battery is thicker than the 18650s or CR123s you'll find in most flashlights, and offers continuous discharge of 15 amps for up to 3 minutes. All that juice means there's enough power to push the LEDs to their limits.

A 21700 lithium-ion battery (top) is noticeably larger than an 18650 or two CR123s.

The 21700 battery is rechargeable via a micro-USB port built into the flashlight housing, protected behind a rubber dust cover. A blue LED under the power button flashes to indicate charge level once a battery is inserted or when the light is disconnected from a USB charger.

An adapter sleeve is included to allow the HC35 to accept 18650/CR123 batteries.

In a pinch, the light can be powered by a single 18650 or two CR123s. These batteries are slimmer, so they'll need to be placed inside the included adapter sleeve. It's also worth noting that the 2,700-lumen Turbo mode can only be used with a 21700 or high-discharge 18650 (8A or greater output); standard 18650s and CR123s will be limited to 800-lumen High output.

The HC35's modes are as follows:

  • Turbo – 2,700 lumens / 45 minutes**
  • High – 800 lumens / 3 hours
  • Medium – 270 lumens / 8 hours 15 minutes
  • Low – 40 lumens / 52 hours
  • Ultralow – 1 lumen / 1,200 hours
  • Strobe – 2,700 lumens
  • Beacon – 2,700 lumens
  • SOS – 2,700 lumens

**According to the manual, this run time was achieved with the Advanced Temperature Regulation disabled. More on this later.

The light includes a 21700 battery, 18650/CR123 adapter sleeve, micro USB cable, reversible pocket clip, and head strap with mounting clip. This light is IP68 rated (waterproof/dustproof) and impact-resistant. MSRP is $100.

Our Impressions of the HC35

This is easily the brightest headlamp we've ever used — it's nearly triple the output of the 1,000-lumen HC65 we previously reviewed. If this were focused into a tight spot beam, we'd say it'd be overkill for most tasks, but the frosted lens and quad-LED setup of the HC35 spreads the light into an extremely broad flood beam. That makes it quite useful for hiking and other medium-range outdoor tasks.

However, there's a catch to this massive output: it generates a lot of heat. In order to avoid damage to the LEDs and housing, Nitecore added cooling fins to the head and built in Advanced Temperature Regulation (ATR) programming. ATR regulates the light's output “according to working conditions and the ambient environment” — in other words, it steps down brightness to prevent overheating. That's not necessarily a bad thing, because most high-output LED flashlights have similar safeguards built in, but our testing of this feature left us surprised and confused.

We tested this by activating the 2,700-lumen Turbo mode in a 68°F (20°C) room. It took exactly 30 seconds for the light's output to drop from the full 2,700 lumens. We immediately switched back to Turbo mode to see if brightness would step down even faster as heat built up, but it reduced output at the 30-second mark again the second time. A third attempt produced the same result — 30 seconds every time. The head didn't feel hot or even significantly warm after this testing.

So, although the light can produce 2,700 lumens, we were unable to force it to do so for even one full minute. The manual's fine print states that the 45-minute advertised run time in Turbo mode was achieved temperature regulation disabled (!). As far as we can tell, there's no way to disable ATR on the production version of the flashlight. This is disappointing, since the light's biggest selling point comes with such a huge caveat.

That said, we did appreciate the light's multiple mounting options, including a magnetic tail cap and a reversible pocket clip that can be used to mount it on a belt, backpack strap, or shirt pocket. The headband is comfortable but the HC35 is quite heavy for a headlamp, so this definitely wouldn't be our first choice for night hiking or extended active wear. We feel this light is best suited to situations where a wide swath of bright light is necessary for short periods — use at a campsite or during a power outage, for example.

The HC35's quad-LED array and diffuser lens produce a very wide flood beam.

Pros:

  • Immensely bright in Turbo mode (for 30 seconds)
  • Wide beam is useful for close- to medium-range tasks
  • Large 21700 battery offers long runtime in High and Medium modes, with plenty of output

Cons:

  • 2,700-lumen max output almost useless in the real world as a result of its 30-second limiter
  • Large housing and heavy battery feel ungainly on the head during high-intensity activities
  • Its size and bulk are doubly annoying when you realize that this is effectively an 800-lumen headlamp with a brief 2,700-lumen Turbo boost. There are many smaller and more comfortable lights that can produce 800 to 1,000 lumens, as long as you can do without Turbo mode.

Nitecore UT32 Specs

The UT32 occupies the other end of the headlamp spectrum from the bulky HC35, having been specifically designed for trail runners. Nitecore calls it an “Ultra Compact Coaxial Dual-Output Headlamp” — the first bit of that name is pretty straightforward, but the “Coaxial Dual-Output” portion intrigued us. It turns out that the UT32's head is split in half, with each side containing a separate LED and reflector assembly.

The first side of the Nitecore UT32 contains an 1,100-lumen TrueVision flood beam powered by a CREE XP-L2 V6 LED. This output offers a 5,700K color temperature, which is typically referred to as cool white. The reflector is designed to spread this light over a 100-degree area, mimicking the typical human field of view.

Above: The primary cool white and auxilary warm white LEDs are on opposing sides of the UT32's head.

On the flipside of the UT32, there's an auxiliary 920-lumen warm white spot beam. Nitecore says that scientific studies indicate this 3,000K color offers higher luminance contrast in low-visibility weather conditions — in other words, it does a better job cutting through fog and rain. Maximum throw with this warm white beam is 117 meters.

The UT32 is controlled by two buttons. Pressing both simultaneously turns on the light; pressing button A (the one with a raised bump) controls the cool flood beam; pressing button B (no bump) controls the warm spot beam. Each has the following modes:

  • Turbo – 1,100 lumens / 1 hour 30 minutes** with flood beam; 920 lumens / 1 hour 30 minutes** with spot beam
  • High – 410 lumens / 3 hours 45 minutes with flood beam; 370 lumens / 3 hours 45 minutes with flood beam
  • Medium – 200 lumens / 8 hours with flood beam; 170 lumens / 8 hours with spot beam
  • Low – 70 lumens / 18 hours with flood beam; 60 lumens / 18 hours with spot beam
  • Beacon – 1,100 lumens with flood beam; 920 lumens with spot beam
  • SOS – 1,100 lumens with flood beam; 920 lumens with spot beam

**According to the manual, this run time was achieved “with fan cooling, as a simulation of the trail running environment.”

The UT32 includes a headband with rubber mounting bracket, a pocket clip, and spare O-ring and switch covers. You'll need to supply a power source, either an 18650 or a pair of CR123s. Nitecore kindly sent us one of its own 2,900mAh Low Temperature High Performance 18650 batteries, which includes a built-in micro-USB charge port. Like the HC35 and most other Nitecore lights, this light is IP68 waterproof/dustproof and impact-resistant. MSRP is $75.

Our Impressions of the UT32

In comparison to the HC35, the UT32 feels light and maneuverable. It weighs 2.9 ounces compared to the HC35's 4.9 ounces, and Nitecore says its mount was designed to maintain an optimized center of gravity while running.

The stretchy headband was also clearly designed with runners in mind. It features breathable perforations and a silicone band to prevent sweat from running down into your eyes. We also appreciate the addition of reflective strips on the outside of the band. Nitecore's site says these strips “effectively guarantee the safety of the wearer at night” — that seems a bit optimistic, but we can see how they'd improve your visibility on a dimly-lit road or trail.

As for the Coaxial Dual-Output design, we found ourselves using the cool white flood beam most of the time. It's plenty bright for jogging, hiking, or just walking around a dark campsite. The spot beam has much better throw, but we'd call its 3,000K color a “pale yellow” more than a “warm white.” It does seem to cut through foggy or dusty conditions better than the white color, but not to the degree that we feel it's a feature we couldn't live without.

Frankly, we prefer a more traditional dual-output headlamp design with spot and flood LEDs on the same side (the Nitecore HC65 is a good example). It's simpler to use and nearly as effective, without the complexity of two activation buttons, two opposing reflectors, and a housing that must be rotated depending on the light that's in use. Still, for those who frequently run or hike in foggy or rainy conditions, the UT32 is a good option.

Pros:

  • An appealing choice for runners or hikers who need a long-lasting light source
  • Cool flood beam is broad enough for use as an area light, but bright enough to use in wide-open spaces
  • Warm spot beam cuts through low-visibility conditions, and nicely complements the flood beam's pattern

Cons:

  • 3,000K light has one purpose — to cut through rain, snow, or fog. If you're not frequently running in these adverse conditions, you'll probably use the flood beam most of the time, in which case the second reflector and LED only serve to add complexity and weight.
  • With its 18650 battery, this setup is better-suited to long treks where runtime is a concern. For short jogs or casual early-morning hikes, an ultralight headlamp such as the Nitecore HA23, BioLite Headlamp 330, or Streamlight Bandit Pro might be preferable.

For more information on the Nitecore HC35 and UT32, go to Nitecore.com.

RECOILtv: New KelTec Sub2000 CQB with Integral Suppressor

Written by

If you're setting up a gun for home defense or emergency use in an indoor environment, adding a suppressor is a great idea. Let's say you're awoken in the middle of the night and have to go investigate a possible intruder. You may not have time to put on ear protection, but a suppressed gun can save your hearing and maintain your situational awareness in the event that you're forced to shoot. On the other hand, the blast from a bare muzzle in a small room might leave you dazed and disoriented. KelTec had this in mind when it developed the new Sub2000 CQB, which comes with an integral suppressor.

Those who know the Sub2000 are no doubt familiar with its folding forend. It's useful for transporting and storing the gun, but it posed a problem for mounting an integrally-suppressed barrel that required more space. KelTec's solution was to allow the Sub2000 CQB's barrel to unlock and rotate before folding. This design also allows for an optic to be mounted permanently on the top rail without interfering with the folding mechanism.

The integral suppressor is said to be user-serviceable, so the baffles can be removed and cleaned. MSRP will be $995 for the standard Sub2000 CQB, but it may also be offered as a package with an optic, light, and laser for approximately $1400. For more information, go to KelTecWeapons.com. And for more videos on new guns and gear, go to RECOILweb.com.

Video: Mike Glover’s Fundamentals of Solo CQB

Written by

If something goes bump in the night in your home, how would you respond? Many of us would grab a handgun from the bedside and quietly go to investigate, clearing the house to determine whether that noise was just the dog knocking over a plant or an armed burglar stumbling over it. However, there are many considerations for how to clear a house safely and efficiently, especially when you're doing so alone. In the following 30-minute video, Mike Glover of Fieldcraft Survival discusses some fundamental lessons for single-man CQB (close-quarters battle) that can apply to any solo room-clearing context.

Glover is a former Green Beret — go read our Survivalist Spotlight interview to get up to speed on his background. As a result, he has quite a bit of training and experience dealing with CQB scenarios. But he also understands that many of the principles of clearing a structure with a team, like a military unit or law enforcement squad, don't directly apply to doing so on your own. “Remember that you don't have a number two man in this case. It's just you.”

Some of these lessons, such as thinking about angles and exposure, are easy to work on at home. Others, such as shooting with your non-dominant hand, may require substantial practice. As always, we recommend seeking out a qualified instructor and training regularly to confirm your skills. Because when something goes bump in the night, you'd better be prepared to deal with it.

New: KADRI Clothing Valkyrie Pants for Women

Written by

We've often heard ladies expressing frustration over clothing that offers an imbalance of form and function — either it looks good and fits well but lacks functional pockets and durable materials, or it has those desirable features but fits poorly and looks extremely unflattering. This is an understandable source of frustration, since the majority of shooting and duty-oriented apparel seems to be designed for men first, then redesigned to fit women as an afterthought. In November 2019, the founders of KADRI Clothing set out to solve this problem with the creation of their first product, the women's Valkyrie pants.

KADRI Clothing was founded by female U.S. Special Operations Forces veterans, including OFFGRID contributor Eryn Chase. They often found themselves tailoring men's pants in order to get the features they wanted — moisture-wicking, quick-drying, breathable, and abrasion-resistant fabric as well as plenty of pockets. Eventually, this led them to start from scratch and create their own Valkyrie pants.

The KADRI Clothing Valkyrie pants feature 72 different size combinations thanks to the company's signature WHVR Matrix sizing system. Ladies can simply measure their waist, hips, and inseam, and KADRI uses these measurements to find the right size. The Valkyrie pants also feature stretchy gussets in the crotch and waist to improve flexibility and comfort, plus numerous reinforcements to maximize durability. And, of course there's an abundance of pockets (11, to be exact).

The Valkyrie field pants are made in the USA and currently available in High Desert Field Tan and Titan Grey. MSRP is $220. For more information, go to KADRIclothing.com.

New: Kershaw Tumbler Folding Knife

Written by

While walking the aisles at SHOT Show, we stopped by the Kershaw/Zero Tolerance knives booth to see what new products these brands had on display. While each had an array of brand-new and recently-released designs to show us, one knife in particular caught our attention: the Kershaw Tumbler.

This folder feels almost like a crossover between Kershaw and the high-end ZT line, since several of its features exceed those present on the typical $60 folders you may be familiar with. The blade is made of D2, a high-carbon tool steel that we'd consider an upgrade from the 8Cr13MoV stainless Kershaw has been using in the past. Its handle is machined from G10 with a thin decorative layer of carbon fiber built into the resin, and it connects to the blade via a smooth KVT ball bearing pivot.

The Kershaw Tumbler was designed by Dmitry Sinkevich, and exhibits the characteristic curvature seen in other Sinkevich designs (like the ZT 0462 we previously reviewed). However, we appreciate that the blade is broad and the curvature is mild, making this a knife that seems like a practical choice for EDC.

This knife is finished with a sub-frame lock, lanyard hole, and deep carry pocket clip (reversible for left- or right-handed tip-up carry). The Tumbler will be available soon at an MSRP of $110. For more info, go to KershawKnives.com.

New: 5.11 Tactical A.T.L.A.S. Footwear

Written by

At SHOT Show 2020, we stopped by the 5.11 Tactical booth to check out some of the new products the company launched at the show. One of the most notable announcements was a major addition to the 5.11 footwear line, known as the new A.T.L.A.S. series. These shoes and boots bridge the gap between military-style duty gear and sport-oriented consumer footwear, and they place a strong emphasis on comfort while carrying heavy loads.

A.T.L.A.S. stands for All Terrain Load Assistance System, which speaks to this purpose. Most of us have experienced foot soreness while hiking or walking with a loaded backpack — all that weight is distributed onto the soles of your feet. 5.11 Tactical addressed this issue by combining a proprietary high-rebound foam with a stiff A.T.L.A.S. support plate. The plate is designed to spread your weight and offer stability, while the foam cushions each step.

The 5.11 Tactical A.T.L.A.S. line has initially launched with three models: low-cut trainer, mid-cut boot, and 8-inch boot. The latter is available in standard and side-zip variants. Note: the trainer does not include the stiffened support plate, and is therefore better-suited to comfort with lighter packs.

These models will be offered in black and dark coyote tan. MSRP is $120 for the trainer, $140 for the mid-cut boot, and $150 for the 8-inch boot. We've already snagged a pair of the trainer shoes, so we'll be trying them out soon and reporting back with our thoughts.

For more information on the 5.11 Tactical A.T.L.A.S. line, go to 511tactical.com.

All Tied Up: 10 Easy Survival Knots

Written by

Most people begin learning knots at an early age. Once the shoelaces are secure, though, knot fluency usually drops like a rock. There isn’t much of a push to teach rope competency at any age beyond shoe tying. In fact, it’s safe to say the majority of people subscribe to the ever-popular “if you can’t tie a knot, tie a lot” theory.

In 1999, I became a firefighter and learned a handful of knots required for the job; then a few years later I joined our Technical Rescue Team. Being a part of a squad whose primary responsibility is rope rescue required me to up my knot game. When public safety depends on one’s knot-tying abilities, more skill is required than continually wrapping and tucking the rope until it looks like something that will probably hold.

Whether you’re a card-carrying prepper, an avid outdoorsman, or one who simply recognizes the potential need to tie, hoist, drag, or secure, proficiency in tying a few easy and key knots is a critical skill that should be learned.

So, which knots are the most important?

The answer is as hotly contested among rope purists as the Glock-versus-1911 debate is in the handgun community. This article is less about settling that argument and more about identifying 10 relatively easy-to-tie knots that offer a solid foundation for your knot-tying skillset. Read on to untangle any confusion you might have about survival tethering.

Knot Glossary

Bight: A curved section in the rope where the two sections lie alongside each other — think U-shape.

Loop: A circle placed in the rope with the ends crossing each other.

Round Turn: Two passes of the rope that make a complete circle.

Standing End: The remainder of the rope not involved in tying the knot.

Working End: The end of the rope used to tie the knot (also called the running end).

Survival Knot #1: Figure-of-Eight Loop

Difficulty: ★☆☆☆☆

Functions: This knot has virtually unlimited uses, such as hoisting gear, pulling limbs or debris, rappelling, and climbing.

Directions
Step 1: Place a bight in the rope.
Step 2: Fold the bight over (in essence creating another bight).
Step 3: Wrap the bight one full time around both standing parts.
Step 4: Tuck the bight through the top of the knot (the second bight you created in step 2).
Step 5: Pull tight.

Survival Knot #2: Figure-of-Eight Follow Through

Difficulty: ★★★☆☆

Functions: As a variant of the first knot, this has the same vast variety of uses, but additionally allows you to tie the knot around an object when you don’t have access to the end of the object to loop the figure-of-eight over.

Directions
Step 1: Tie a Figure-of-Eight in the rope with enough working end to wrap around your anchor and trace back through the knot.
Step 2: Wrap the working end around your anchor.
Step 3: Place the working end against the standing end and trace the working end through the knot.
Step 4: Dress the knot so the turns don’t cross each other.
Step 5: Pull tight.

Survival Knot #3: Overhand Knot with a Drawloop

Difficulty: ★★☆☆☆

Functions: The draw loop is wrapped around the load (gear, animal carcass, human victim, litter, etc.). As the knot is weighted, the loop cinches tight, securing the load. When the load is relieved, the knot can easily be released by pulling the working end of the rope.

Directions
Step 1: Tie an Overhand Knot.
Step 2: Wrap the working end around the anchor and back through the loop created in step 1.
Step 3: Pull tight.

Survival Knot #4: Alpine Butterfly

Difficulty: ★★★☆☆

Functions: This knot offers a three-way pull. One can wrap a rope around an object and tie an Alpine Butterfly. Then, an object can be clipped or tied to the Alpine Butterfly — and it won’t compromise the rope or knot due to the three-way pull. The Alpine Butterfly can be used any time a loop is required in the middle of the rope, such as securing a shelter or elevating food away from wild animals.

Directions
Step 1: Drape the rope over your open hand at an angle extending away from your thumb.
Step 2: Bring the rope around and over the front of the hand, crossing the first wrap and forming an X.
Step 3: Continue wrapping one more time around the hand, working closer to your thumb.
Step 4: Pull slack in the center of the three wraps and lay the loose rope on your hand facing back toward your wrist.
Step 5: Tuck that loop under the X toward your fingertips.
Step 6: Withdraw your hand from the knot and pull the standing ends in one direction and the bight in the other.
Step 7: The knot is complete when you pull the two standing ends apart from each other, popping the knot into its final position.

Note: As with many knots, there are multiple ways to tie the Alpine Butterfly. If this method doesn’t click for you, research other ways to tie this important knot.

Survival Knot #5: Constrictor Knot

Difficulty: ★★★☆☆

Functions: The Constrictor can be utilized as whipping at the end of a rope, a clamp to hold things down, or to hoist, drag, or grip around a group of objects. It can also be used in any scenario when you need to secure a rope to an object or an object to a rope, and doesn’t require access to the end of the object. This is possibly the most useful and common of the binding knots.

Directions
Step 1: Wrap the rope around whatever is to be tied.
Step 2: Lay the working end across its own standing part.
Step 3: Tuck the working end around the object again creating an X.
Step 4: Lead the working end beneath the diagonal part of the X that was just created.
Step 5: Tuck the working end under the first crossing turn.
Step 6: Pull tight.

Survival Knot #6: Pile Hitch

Difficulty: ★☆☆☆☆

Functions: Used to quickly tie a rope to a pole, post, or tree. The Pile Hitch is often used to tie off a watercraft or to secure an animal. While it isn’t even considered a knot by some purists, this knot provides one of the easiest ways to tie a hitch.

Directions
Step 1: Make a bight in the rope.
Step 2: Wrap the bight around the post or object, passing the bight underneath both standing ends.
Step 3: Pass the bight over the top of the post or object.
Step 4: Pull tight.

Survival Knot #7: Double Fisherman

Difficulty: ★★★★☆

Functions: A tad more difficult to tie than the rest in this bunch, this knot can be used to securely tie two lengths of rope together. Whenever a single rope is not long enough to accomplish a task, the Double Fisherman can potentially save the day.

Directions
Step 1: Place the two ropes parallel to one another.
Step 2: Make a bight in rope No. 1.
Step 3-4: Create a figure eight working back toward its own standing end, making sure you finish it by tucking the working end under both ropes 1 and 2.
Step 5: Pull both ends of rope No. 1 to secure it to rope No. 2.
Step 6-7: With the working end of rope No. 2, repeat step 3, tying it around rope No. 1.
Step 8: Pull the ropes apart, drawing the knots in together.

Survival Knot #8: Simple Simon Under

Difficulty: ★★★☆☆

Functions: Another knot used to tie two ropes together, the Simple Simon Under is especially useful for tying wet, synthetic rope together.

Directions
Step 1: Make a bight in rope No. 1. Tuck the working end of rope No. 2 through the bight in rope No. 1.
Step 2: Wrap the working end of rope No. 2 over both the working and standing ends of rope 1.
Step 3: Continue wrapping over the working and standing ends of rope No. 1.
Step 4: Crossing the working end under itself, tuck it back into the back of the bight in rope 1.
Step 5: Pull tight.

Survival Knot #9: Handcuff Knot

Difficulty: ★★☆☆☆

Functions: This can be quickly tied and placed around a victim’s wrists or ankles to remove them from harm or around an animal to drag it.

Directions
Step 1: Put two loops in the rope side by side, one clockwise and one counterclockwise.
Step 2: Partially overlap the two loops with the clockwise loop on the bottom (at this point, the knot will look like a pretzel).
Step 3-4: Pull the leading edge of the clockwise loop through the back of the knot and the counterclockwise loop through the front.

Survival Knot #10: Daisy Chain

Difficulty: ★★☆☆☆

Functions: Although not a knot, the Daisy Chain is an extremely useful method to store rope for rapid deployment.

Directions
Step 1: Locate the center of the rope.
Step 2: Create a Half Hitch.
Step 3: Pull both legs of the standing end up through the loop in the Half Hitch just enough to make a bight.
Step 4: While holding the newly formed bight, pull the standing end and the bight with the two rope ends.
Step 5: Place the two working parts of the rope up into the bight just far enough to make another bight.
Step 6: Continue tucking the two working parts of the rope up into the most recently formed bight just enough to create another bight. Do this until the entire rope is “chained.” To untie, simply pull the ends of the rope and the chain comes undone.

Conclusion

Tied Knot isolated on white background

With these 10 knots, you can now use rope as a tool to enhance your life, bolster your survival skills, and wow your friends. Remember you were only able to learn how to tie your shoes by repetition. Cut yourself a piece of rope and, as you binge watch your favorite TV show, tie these knots over and over again. Create the muscle memory to afford you the ability to tie them under the stress of a disastrous scenario. It’s far better to learn them in the comfort of your chair rather than on your back in the throes of a disaster.

About the Author

Scott Finazzo has been a firefighter for more than 20 years and a longtime member of his fire department’s Technical Rescue Team. He has authored five books, including The Prepper’s Guide to Knots and the national bestselling The Prepper’s Workbook. He also wrote Why Do All the Locals Think We’re Crazy? about his kayak trip through the Virgin Islands. www.scottfinazzo.com

More From Issue 19

Don’t miss essential survival insights—sign up for Recoil Offgrid's free newsletter today!

Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 20

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 18

Check out our other publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade | RecoilTV | RECOILtv (YouTube)

Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.

New: Maxpedition Prepared Citizen Deluxe Backpack

Written by

There's a time and place for large-capacity military-style packs covered in PALS webbing, MOLLE pouches, and expansion straps. They're great for range days, backcountry hikes, or long-term sustainment situations. However, when it comes to every-day carry around town, we prefer something more discreet and streamlined. We're therefore pleased to see more gear companies offering lower-profile options for urban EDC. Maxpedition recently launched a new pack in this style known as the Prepared Citizen Deluxe.

The Maxpedition Prepared Citizen Deluxe is a follow-up to the company's popular Prepared Citizen Classic, a pack that closely resembles a ubiquitous bookbag design we're all familiar with. This new Deluxe variant adds more capacity, compartments, and features while maintaining a relatively-innocuous appearance. Both feature sturdy 1,000D nylon fabric with double-stitching and reinforcements, YKK zippers, and Duraflex buckles. There's also a hidden rear CCW compartment for a weapon or ballistic panel.

The Prepared Citizen Deluxe pack's interior features loop-lined panels for addition of pouches, pockets, or a holster. Each side of the pack also now has an expandable bottle holder, a feature we're glad to see implemented. Total capacity is 32L, plenty for a daypack or get-home bag.

This pack is available now in four colors: Wolf Grey, Dark Blue, Black, and OD Green. MSRP is $110, but at this article's time of publication, it's on sale for $89. There's also a limited-time code on the product page for a free hook-backed holster for the CCW compartment. For more information on this pack, go to Maxpedition.com.