Video: DIY Solar Water Desalinator

Written by

Whether you're stuck on a lifeboat in the middle of the ocean or facing a Castaway-style desert island survival scenario, you'll face the cruel irony of being surrounded by water that you can't drink. This dilemma is one of the reasons surviving at sea is so difficult. With a little ingenuity, you can extract potable water from saltwater, but the improvised methods of doing this all come with substantial drawbacks. For example, a solar still can convert seawater or even urine into drinking water, but it's extremely slow — you might only get a few drops per hour. For maximum efficiency, you'll want a desalinator that strips salt and other dissolved solids from water.

The copper condenser coil is enclosed in a cylindrical shroud to direct airflow from the fan.

Off-the-shelf desalinators are available, and they can be a great way to efficiently produce clean drinking water from seawater. However, these devices are often large, costly, and/or require frequent maintenance. Creating a DIY unit based on the principle of distillation is a good alternative, and a fun project to undertake.

The computer fan is powered by a AA battery pack, which is charged by a removable solar panel.

In the video below, the YouTuber known as electronicsNmore shows off a desalinator he made from a metal water bottle, sterno can, some coiled copper tubing, and an insulated mug. Since distillation relies on quickly cooling hot steam, he also built a solar-powered fan enclosure that constantly pulls cool air over the copper coil.

As mentioned in the video, this design was inspired by a previous water desalinator built by another YouTuber, NightHawkInLight. You can watch that video below for an alternative approach — it's definitely a simpler design that would be easier to build and maintain in the field. However, it requires frequently discarding and replenishing the liquid coolant for the copper coil, rather than using air and sunlight. It's up to you whether you'd want to spend more time up front building the complex (and potentially fragile) solar water desalinator, or spend more time during a survival situation maintaining a water-cooled desalinator.

Knowing the Ropes: Bail-Out Gear Buyer’s Guide

Written by

In your overall plan for preparedness, you may not have considered getting out of an elevated area. However, height, like most other environmental factors, doesn’t discriminate. If there’s no other viable option, you may need to descend a tall building or structure, whether you’re hunting on an elevated platform or just at home or work. Though the differences seem great, the principles and most of the equipment are very similar. Putting aside experience level and environment, bail-out systems can be easily added to your personal preparedness plan.

The environments in which we live and our individual experiences differ greatly, giving us widely varied ideas of the potential threats we anticipate in our lives. Consequently, we’ll each have different measures to achieve what we deem to be a safe level of preparedness. Since there isn’t a “one size fits all” approach to any plan, including this one, your first step should be to identify the gap between your current capabilities and where you’d like to be to feel comfortable in your perceived “worst-case scenario.”

Most of us have already adopted things like wilderness survival kits, first-aid kits, and concealed carry weapons, as logical and effective methods to manage risk. What types of risk are those items managing? Physical threats, massive trauma, protection against environmental factors. A bail-out kit also helps manage environmental factors by enabling you to rapidly evacuate a structure at height (such as a multistory building or high-angle terrain).

Let’s look at commercially available kits to see how they’re put together and why that should matter to you. The most popular kits have been developed based on the needs of the groups who use them most frequently to manage the potential risk in their operating environments — primarily fire departments and military units. Most bail-out kits currently available were designed for scenarios that probably don’t match what you might encounter as an average civilian preparing for an extremely bad day.

To find equipment that works best for you, let’s look at the kits themselves, the components and terminology, and the data backing the equipment.

Important Terminology

The main components of a bail-out kit include: rope, a descent control device, a harness, an anchor building capability, and a mode of transportation (i.e., bag or carrying case of some sort). Here’s some terminology that’s important to understand:

Minimum Break Strength (MBS) describes the force it takes to break an item; for instance, a carabiner may have an MBS of around 24 kilonewtons (kN). On that note …

One kilonewton is roughly 224.8 pounds of force. You can use these numbers to determine the “weakest link” of your bail-out kit. In most kit, this will be the rope; however, always keep in mind the strength of what you attach your rope to. If you’re in a building that’s on fire or contains a fire, your anchor is the most likely component to be compromised, making the physical object you’ve made your anchor out of the weakest link.

Bail-Out Kits

When going through these kits, keep a few things in mind. Who is this kit made for? Why was this kit made? Under what conditions is it designed to operate? Use these criteria when considering a premade bail-out kit for your specific application. There has never been a kit specifically designed for you, but it’s possible to find a premade kit that suffices.

Sterling Rope Company F4 Tactical Response System

Weight
3.1 pounds

Price
$422

URL
cascade-rescue.com/f4-tactical-response-system/

Contents

  • 1x Sterling F4
  • 1x Osprey Carabiner
  • 1x 50-foot SafeTech Escape Rope, 7.5mm
  • 1x Double-action Snaphook

Notes: This kit utilizes a 50-foot 7.5mm aramid rope with an autolocking descent device. While its audience is primarily the tactical (LEO/military) side, it’s not limited to tactical settings. It has a double-action snaphook, a very easy-to-use and fast-locking carabiner. The 7.5mm aramid rope is slight overkill for a “one-time use” civilian application. As you’re about to see, you can go down to a 6mm aramid rope and still have an MBS of 21kN, which is pretty good. The 7.5mm gives you that added material for abrasion resistance and durability. If you’re using it in outdoor terrain, where there might be sharp rock edges, then this might be the right answer. But for urban environments when you have more control over what surfaces your rope comes in contact with, a 6mm will suffice.

Petzl EXO AP Hook

Weight
3.2 pounds

Price
$500

URL
www.petzl.com/US/en/Professional/Descenders/EXO-AP-HOOK

Contents

  • 1x Hook anchor hook
  • 1x Self-braking system with antigenic function
  • 1x 15m aramid fiber static rope, 7.5mm
  • 1x Am’D connector with CAPTIV positioning bar
  • 1x Fire-resistant carry bag

Notes: There are a few versions of this kit with slightly different contents. This is the firefighter version with a hook; the tactical package includes a double-action snaphook, similar to the one in the F4 Tactical Response kit. It’s difficult for me to justify carrying a bail-out kit with a hook as the anchor. While it’s incredibly easy to hook a doorframe or the side of a window, it’s just as easy to find an anchor that you can put a piece of webbing or a runner around. See if it works for you and, if not, you can always order it without a hook.

CMC Escape Artist System (Web)

Weight
2.6 pounds

Price
$550

URL
www.cmcpro.com/equipment/escape-artist-system-web/

Contents

  • 1x 50-foot fire escape web
  • 1x Escape Artist
  • 1x Flash.2 Escape Anchor
  • 1x Nomex Fire Escape Bag

Notes: What makes this kit unique is the 50 feet of aramid fire escape web. The “rope” is really like a thick webbing. It’s 11mm wide, around 4mm thick, and has an MBS of 13.5kN. It comes with a hook and a descent device called the “Escape Artist,” an auto-locking device like the F4 and F3. The Escape Artist works on both the fire escape web and 7.5mm ropes, so it’s slightly larger in size and more comparable to the F4. Though a completely different design, both the Escape Artist and the F4 have the same type of squeeze-activated release for rappelling.

After going through some of these kits, you probably saw some features that apply to you. This is because these kits tend to have some universal features intended to make them look more appealing. However, you might have noticed that the majority of these kits don’t include a harness. That’s because the target audience of these kits typically already have a harness of some type. Firefighters have their belts, as so do military and law enforcement. You could plan on wearing a Class One harness every time you carry a bail-out kit if you want, but that’s a hell of fashion statement to make with your daily wardrobe. So you may find that a pre-packaged bail-out kit needs to be supplemented with components that better suit your intended application.

Kit Components

The trick to setting up the ideal-for-you bail-out kit is to avoid limiting yourself to the discipline or practice that a given product originated from. I personally lean toward products that were designed for the alpine/mountaineering community, because my performance parameters for equipment is rooted in these practices. Whether you’re rappelling because there’s a fire in your building or because you’re bailing from a climb because of bad weather, it’s still rappelling. So figure out what you really need and become an educated consumer.

Rope

First things first — a rope. Many firefighters and military personnel use a rope constructed of aramid fibers due to its heat resistance and extended durability. Some of the more popular aramid fibers include Kevlar, Technora, and Twaron. Their performance parameters tend to be beneficial in almost all other applications of use, including for a civilian in an emergency bail out. The more durable the rope, the smaller it can be. The more heat resistant it is, the longer you can use it, and under more circumstances.

There are also many variables to a rope that change its behavior in use, but most of that would only be recognized over time. Most people who carry a bail-out kit will likely only use it once in an emergency and then buy another one. The length of your rope is 100-percent dependent on the height of the buildings you’re most likely to come across. I usually run with a 75-foot rope, more than enough to cover the buildings I typically run into. Most would probably be fine with a 40- or 50-foot section. Each building is slightly different, but a good rule of thumb is that each story is roughly 10 to 12 feet, with an 8-foot maintenance floor every 10 (depending on the building code). That being said, let’s look at some options to fill out our bail-out kit.

Sterling Xtec

Weight
0.4 pounds / 50 feet

MBS
21kN

Diameter
6mm

Core/Sheath
Technora/Technora

Price
$80 / 50 feet

URL
sterlingrope.com/store/work/cordage/high-tenacity-cords/6mm-xtec

Notes: Sterling Xtec is a 6mm aramid rope with a double braid construction, meaning that the core of the rope is braided as well as the sheath. That gives the rope better handling and added durability.

Sterling RIT 900

Weight
0.9 pounds / 50 feet

MBS
18.4kN

Diameter
6.8mm

Core/Sheath
None/Twaron

Price
$65 / 50 feet

URL
sterlingrope.com/store/work/ropes/search-rescue/search-ropes/rit-900

Notes: Sterling RIT 900 is a very unique rope in that it lacks a core, because its primary use in the fire service is as a search line. It has to bend around tight corners and fit underneath doors. This rope is also made from aramid fibers, so it’s still very strong and resistant to heat and abrasion.

Sterling Firetech2

Weight
1.5 pounds / 50 feet

MBS
25.5kN

Diameter
7.5mm

Core/Sheath
Technora/Technora

Price
$127 / 50 feet

URL
https://sterlingrope.com/store/work/ropes/search-rescue/escape-ropes/firetech2

Notes: Sterling Firetech2 is an incredible rope, if you want to size up to a 7.5mm. It handles great and works well with the Sterling F4 device.

Descent Control Device

Choosing a decent control device is typically the most dependent on personal preference when assembling a bail-out kit, so you should have an idea of what you might want in a device to rappel with. You don’t need a background in rappelling, but a general understanding of it will be very helpful. I categorize them into auto-locking and manual-braking devices.

An auto-locking device is designed to automatically stop you from moving if you lose control of the rope. For less experienced people, or people who have to use both hands for something in the middle of a rappel, it works pretty well. However, during the rappel you’ll have to use both hands to safely operate the device. The military sees value in the ability to use both hands to operate something in the middle of a rappel, while firefighters like the extra layer of security in operating the device.

Manual braking devices are typically more adaptive in different environments, less specific to the rope they’re being used with, and less complicated to operate when you gain competency in rappelling. They don’t provide that added layer of security of “catching” you if you fall, and it’ll be slightly more difficult to use both hands for something in the middle of a rappel. However, during the rappel, it’ll be easier to work around objects (such as air conditioning units, balconies, and so forth) because of its versatility in not needing two hands to operate the devices.

Mammut NanoEight

Weight
44g

MBS
16kN

Diameter Range
6-7.5mm

Price
$14.95

URL
www.mammut.com/us/en/p/2210-01810-2016/nano-8/

Notes: The Mammut NanoEight is a very lightweight rappel device that follows the traditional “eight plate design,” though it’s designed to work on low diameter ropes. The “wing” on the side of the device provides greater control over your rate of speed during the rappel.

Sterling F4

Weight
6.4 ounces

MBS
13.5kN

Diameter Range
7.5mm

Price
$100

URL
sterlingrope.com/store/work/hardware/descent-control-rigging/f4-device

Notes: The Sterling F4 Device is an auto-locking device. It’s very intuitive to operate the squeeze-activated release, so training on this device should be fairly quick and easy.

Sterling F3

Weight
4.8 ounces

MBS
3035

Diameter Range
6mm

Price
$77

URL
rwrope.com/climbing-safety-gear/ascenders-descenders/sterling-f3-descent-device/

Notes: The Sterling F3 Device is the little brother (or sister) of the F4. It’s simply scaled down, intended for smaller diameter ropes. It also has the added safety feature of a “panic brake” — if the rappeler over-activates the device and squeezes too hard, it’ll stop the rope from moving through the device.

Harness

Harnesses come in all shapes and sizes, typically matching the audience the company intended to market it to. There are two main types of harnesses: A Class One is essentially a weight-rated belt, and a Class Two is commonly associated with climbers —a weight-rated belt with corresponding leg loops to distribute the load.

There are also Class Three harnesses, but those are full-body harnesses used more for construction work or technical rescue, so we won’t go into them here. Emergency belts, or “last resort belts” rated as a Class One harness, have become a popular alternative to a traditional harness, which is awesome if that’s what you feel comfortable with. Due to the extent of research driving the outdoor sports industries, I’ve grown to like a lot of the “alpine” style harnesses, so we’ll focus on those the most.

Edelrid Loopo Lite

Weight
2.82 ounces

Price
$80

URL
www.edelrid.com/us/sports/sit-harnesses/loopo-lite.html

Notes: The Edelrid Loopo Lite harness is one of the lightest harnesses currently available; surprisingly, its construction doesn’t compromise comfort or the ease of putting it on. It also has reflective tie-in loops, so it’s easy to identify in low-light conditions and under stress. There are four gear loops (two on each side), so you can keep additional gear close at hand.

Black Diamond Couloir Harness

Weight
7.5 ounces

Price
$65

URL
www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/climbing-harnesses/couloir-BD651084_cfg.html

Notes: The Black Diamond Couloir harness is also a very lightweight harness, providing more durability than most due to the construction of the waist strap and leg loops. It has speed buckle adjustments so it’s easy to take on and off, as well as two gear loops (one on each side) to clip on additional equipment.

Petzl Altitude

Weight
5.3 ounces

Price
$80

URL
www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Harnesses/ALTITUDE

Notes: If the Couloir and Loopo Lite had a baby, it’d be the Petzl Altitude harness. It’s an ultra-lightweight design with Petzl’s Wireframe technology to improve comfortability and durability. A few differences include gear loops turned 90 degrees, so they don’t interfere as much with a backpack’s waist strap, as well as a quick adjusting, easy-to-operate buckle.

Anchor

A lot of people overthink anchor systems, probably because they’re often viewed as the most important part of the bail-out system. This is true in the sense that you couldn’t have a bail-out system without one, but your rope, harness, and descent control device are equally important. An anchor is also very easy to improvise with just your rope — you can simply wrap your rope around an object and tie it to itself. You don’t even need another piece of equipment; however, a dedicated anchor can be used for multiple purposes.

For example, if you decide to use a piece of webbing as an anchor, it can also be used as a harness (on yourself or someone else), or even repair a broken backpack strap if needed. Another advantage is you’ll preserve your rope’s full length for the actual distance of the rappel. For instance, if you use 10 feet of rope to build an anchor, that’s 10 feet less that you can rappel. There are also smaller, lightweight options like 120cm (48 inches) slings, common in climbing and mountaineering.

Edelrid Aramid Core Sling, 120cm

Weight
1.79 ounces

MBS
23kN

PRICE
$25

URL
www.edelrid.de/en/sports/runner/aramid-cord-sling-6mm.html

Notes: The Aramid Core Sling is one of the most durable slings I’ve ever used. It has a polyamide sheath with an aramid core, giving it a perfect combination of strength and abrasion resistance. It does tend to be fairly stiff when brand new and sometimes it gets in the way. Either way, once you’ve used it a couple times, it handles great.

Black Diamond 18mm Nylon Runner, 120cm

Weight
2.3 ounces

MBS
22kN

Price
$9

URL
www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/18-mm-nylon-runner-BD380025_cfg.html

Notes: I typically use the 18mm Nylon Runner for general use, when I don’t quite need the abrasion resistance of the Aramid Core Sling but still want the ease of a 120cm sling.

Method of Carry

This is probably the most important aspect to a bail-out kit for the civilian population because, let’s be honest, if it’s not easy to carry, you won’t actually carry it. Transporting a bail-out kit heavily depends on what you typically carry every day. For those who carry a backpack, it’s pretty easy. When size and weight are an issue, such as if you usually roll with a messenger bag or a briefcase type of bag, a vacuum-sealed version with more specific equipment requirements might have to do.

You also have to consider how easily and quickly you can access and utilize is the kit. For most applications in the civilian environment, a bail-out will be used in case of emergency and then left on scene, still hanging from the building. In that case, a “one and done” type of packaging like a vacuum-sealed bag works and is even preferable over a reusable bag due to space savings and ease of transportation. Any of the kits listed earlier can be removed from their bags and packed in any of the options below, once you know what you need.

Vacuum Sealed

Contents

  • 1x 75-foot Sterling RIT 900
  • 2x Rock Exotica RockO, Autolocking Carabiners
  • 1x Mammut NanoEight
  • 1x Edelrid Aramid Core Sling, 120cm
  • 1x Edelrid Loopo Lite

Notes: I personally use this method the most because of its space savings and ease of use. When using this method, I’m not worried about repacking my bail-out kit as I’ll use it and leave it. The main advantage is the versatility of the various shapes and sizes that you can form the kit. If you have an open spot in a backpack or messenger bag, you can make a kit specifically to fit the available space.

IFAK Bags

Contents

  • 1x 50-foot Sterling Xtec
  • 1x Rock Exotica RockO, Autolocking Carabiner
  • 1x Rock Exotica Pirate, Autolocking Carabiner
  • 1x Sterling F3
  • 1x Edelrid Aramid Core Sling, 120cm
  • 1x Edelrid Loopo Lite

Notes: This is easy to pack and still has some of the features of the vacuum-sealed option, such as the ease of carry and use. Individual First Aid Kit (IFAK) bags typically have some type of organizational aspect to them already, making it easier to pack and layout a small bail-out kit.

Stuff Sack

Contents

  • 1x 50-foot Sterling RIT 900
  • 1x Rock Exotica RockO, Autolocking Carabiner
  • 1x Rock Exotica Pirate, Autolocking Carabiner
  • 1x Black Diamond 18mm Nylon Runner
  • 1x Edelrid Loopo Lite

Notes: Stuff sacks are pretty much the easy button for bail-out kits — if all else fails, shove it in a bag. Some key considerations when looking for a bag to stuff and stuffing it with stuff: I typically look for a wide opening, preferably without hook and loop, which sticks to the rope when you pack it and causes frustration. When packing the bag, remember that you want the contents to deploy smoothly, without knotting up or tangling. Properly flake out your rope before packing it, and then pack using small compact bights of rope.

Conclusion

Whatever combination of components you decide to put together or if you choose a pre-made kit to carry, the most important thing is your understanding of your gear and techniques. Like all things, you need training to become proficient, so the better you know your equipment, the better you can utilize it to the extent of its abilities.

About the Author

David McKay is an instructor at Element Rescue, where he specializes in teaching and developing improvised and dynamic vertical mobility techniques. This includes identifying specific problems within the response of search-and-rescue, law enforcement, and military organizations. Element Rescue is a training and strategic problem-solving company that focuses on improving system efficiency when it’s needed the most. David also works as a Research and Development Lab tech at Tactical Medical Solutions, where he works on user experience design as well as the manufacturing of various products. Tactical Medical Solutions is a developer and manufacturer of pre-hospital medical gear made for both the civilian and tactical environment.

Lifelines: Escaping a High-Rise with a Bail-Out Kit

Written by

Firefighters are a different breed. Like soldiers and police officers, they rush into harm’s way when others are rushing out. But what happens when a firefighter gets into trouble? What resources do they have at their disposal to get them out of a multistory building when they can’t go out the way they came in? One of the more unique or specialized tools firefighters have begun to carry over the last 10 to 15 years is what’s known as a bail-out kit. A bail-out kit generally consists of a hook, a special fire-resistant rope, and a descending device. This kit is designed specifically to assist firefighters who need to quickly escape a structure when their main means of entry or exit has been cut off.

Even though these kits were designed for first responders, they can be equally useful to everyday citizens who find themselves in top-floor emergencies. Vertical rescue skills, like breaching a door with a Halligan tool or having to bail out the window of your high-rise building to escape danger, are very handy skills to have in a crisis or survival situation.

In the aftermath of Sept. 11, there were several large corporations that actively solicited equipment and training to ensure their vital employees would be able to get out of New York City high-rise buildings in the event of another tragedy like that of the World Trade Center. Ideas ranging from parachutes to airplane-style inflatable slides were proposed by various companies. I doubt any of those systems were ever successfully deployed in a commercial market, but I know for a fact that there are many firefighter-style bail-out kits sitting in various high-rise offices. I hope they never have to be used.

Imagine this scenario: You’re high up in a multistory parking structure when an earthquake hits, blocking the stairwells and exit ramps, such as what happened in the 1994 Northridge quake. No help will be coming for days, and you’re on your own.

Or maybe you’re on vacation in a high-rise hotel when a fire breaks out on your floor, or one of the floors below you. You’ve kept your hotel room door closed and put wet towels under the door to delay the smoke infiltration. That’s good, but eventually smoke begins to fill your room and your only respite is an open window on the upwind side. Will that 100-foot ladder truck be able to reach your 10th-floor window when it’s parked 30 feet away from the building? Will the firefighters be able to put out the fire before you and your family are overcome by the smoke? Do you become an active participant in saving the lives of your loved ones, or do you sit idly by and pray for salvation? And if you do decide to wait for help, is there sufficient personnel, equipment, and training in a foreign country’s fire department?

Above: With your left hand, cup the hook and place the point of the hook in the lower left-hand corner of the windowsill.

Or perhaps you’re at work on the fourth or fifth floor of your office when an active shooter scenario begins on the ground floor. The stairwells and elevators are a fatal funnel, so you need to avoid those at all costs. What do you do? Do you have the means to fight? Do you prefer to hide and hope the shooter doesn’t find you? Do you jump out the window from 40-plus feet up and hope against the odds that you’ll be seriously injured or killed?

Fortunately, there’s another way out. Perhaps, in the trunk of your car in the parking structure, carried along in your luggage on vacation, or tucked away with your office emergency equipment, there’s a bail-out kit. This could be the lifeline that gets you out of a horrible situation and home to your family.

Full Disclosure: I am a freelance employee and master trainer for RIT Safety Solutions bail-out systems, so that’s what I will use here for reference. There are several companies that manufacture similar systems, so research all the options and choose the one that best meets your needs.

Components

A typical bail-out kit consists of a hook, a fire-resistant rope, and a descending device. You’ll need to couple this with either a commercial rappeling/climbing harness, or an improvised one made from rope or webbing. If you’re going the rope/webbing route, a 20-foot piece will suffice for most people. And, if you anticipate helping somebody besides yourself, I recommend a second 20-foot piece of rope/webbing.

Above: Pull the end of the rope out the window to keep the hook set in place. You need that constant pressure on the hook to keep it in place.

When I say the kit comes with a hook, it literally comes with a hook that’s specifically designed for hooking onto windowsills or standard 2½-inch pipes used in commercial buildings. When a firefighter has to use his bail-out kit, it’s a last-ditch effort to get out of a burning building to save his or her own life. As such, unconventional and improvised anchor points must often be used, giving new life to the tried-and-tested hooks of days gone by. There’s a variety of bail-out hooks on the market, available in either steel or aluminum. One common feature they all have is that the tip of the hook comes sharpened. This assists the hook with digging deep into wooden windowsills, old-style plaster and lath, or modern drywall. This sharpened hook also grips well on concrete and cinder block. The various angles and contours of the hook are there not only to provide it with great strength, but to be able to use it as a tool to break windows. One hard smash using the top of the hook can break commercial plate glass.

The tip of the hook I carry from RIT Safety Solutions can support 5,000 pounds. That rating is measured at the tip; in the saddle of the hook, we see higher strengths up to 10,000 pounds. If these hooks are strong enough to tow a car, they can certainly support the weight of a single person.

The rope used in these bail-out systems is also very special. The best systems have rope made from a Kevlar-type material called Technora. You see, traditional nylon rope begins to degrade at high temperatures — by the time it reaches 480 degrees F, nylon will completely melt through. In fact, the method used to cut nylon rope and heat-seal the ends is an electric hot knife. But these special Kevlar-type ropes don’t even break a sweat at typical oven temperatures. You can place one on a hot knife at full temperature and leave it there pretty much all day without severing it. NASA even uses this material on the parachutes of the Mars rover. The Underwriters Laboratory testing of the Technora rope I use is rated to hold a 300-pound load for six minutes, while being exposed to 1,112-degree F heat. This 7.5mm rope has an overall breaking strength of 6,000 pounds and is also highly resistant to chemicals that would eat away the average rope.

Above: Once you're out the window and safely on the system, this will be your view.

Descending devices vary by manufacturer, but one mandated feature that they all share is that they’re designed to automatically stop the descent unless a lever is pulled or a button is pressed. This safety feature will prevent you from free-falling to the ground should you become unconscious. Quite simply, if you do nothing, you’ll stop. The average kit weighs in between 3 and 4 pounds, so it’s not overly burdensome.

Bailing Out of a Jam

As mentioned previously, the inside curve of most bailout hooks is designed to fit around a standard 2½-inch pipe common in commercial buildings, but the hook can also be used on standard 2×4 or 2×6 wall joists. Steam pipes in the room? Excellent, the hook will fit nicely on that. Old-fashioned cast-iron radiators? Those make great anchors, too. If needed, the firefighter can set the hook into the hinge side of a door. If there’s no other option, any fairly heavy furniture can be tied onto, preferably a piece that can’t fit out the window.

There are tools you can carry that make a sufficient anchor, too. The Halligan tool, invented in 1948 by New York City Firefighter Hugh Halligan, is a jack-of-all-trades tool. It can be used for twisting, prying, punching, or wedging. While the main use of the Halligan tool is often seen as door-breaching with the forks, adze, or pick, it truly is one the most versatile tools I’ve ever seen. The Halligan tool can be driven into the wall and then shoved downward in such a way that it can serve as an anchor point, albeit at the expense of losing the tool. The Halligan can also be swung forcefully enough to bury the pick straight down into a wooden floor and if done correctly, can hold the weight of a single firefighter at a time. It can also be used, carefully, across the lower corner of a window for an anchor point. As long as steady pressure is maintained, the Halligan tool will stay in place.

These may sound like less-than-stellar anchor points to you, and you’d be right. They’re absolutely less than ideal. But when the only other choice is to burn to death or wait for the active shooter to find you, these improvised anchors start to look a lot more palatable. Firefighters in my region are required to train on these bail-out systems no less than once a year, and that training includes using the Halligan tool in most — if not all — of the ways mentioned above, This way, if the moment comes and they’re forced to use that bailout kit, they’re about as prepared as can be.

Above: Alternate anchor points can be used, such as radiator pipes.

Windowsill Technique

As an example of how these kits can be used, we’ll briefly outline how to get out using a bail-out hook dug into a windowsill.

Once you’ve donned your harness or tied yourself an improvised one, connect the descending device to your harness.

With the palm of your left hand, cup the hook and place the point of the hook in the lower left-hand corner of the windowsill. Keep constant pressure on the hook, directed toward the outside of the window. You’re basically trying to push the point of the hook further into the wall. Don’t let go of the hook, and don’t let your fingers become trapped between the hook and windowsill.

With your right hand, pull the hooked end of the rope out the window to keep the hook set in place. You need that constant pressure on the hook to keep it in place.

Carefully go out the window head-first, keeping constant pressure on the rope with your right hand and your left palm on top of the hook further pushing it into the windowsill.

Above: If you're anchoring this style hook around a fixed point, you can put a bight (loop) of rope through the hole and then over the tip.

Point your head and right hand toward the ground as you roll out the window. It should be right hand, head, body, right leg, left leg, and then finally releasing the cupped hand over the hook.

Once you’re out the window and hanging on your kit, it’s critical that you do not assume a rappel stance or bound down the wall. This could cause the hook to slip.

Activate your descending device slowly, going straight down, dragging along the wall until you reach the ground.

For lowering your loved one out the window:

Place your loved one in a harness and connect the hooked end of the rope to their harness. Connect the descending device into your harness.

Have them gently roll out the window. You want slow steady pressure applied since you are now the anchor. Don’t worry, the additional friction caused by the rope running over the edge of a window sill takes a lot of the weight. As the anchor person, you want to stay below the sill of the window for maximum friction.

Once your loved one is fully out the window and hanging on the rope, carefully lower them to the ground. Then, instruct them to remove their equipment so you can pull it all back up for reuse with the next person, or your own escape out outlined previously.

Above: With any style hook around a fixed point, you can tie off with two half hitches.

Note: There’s a reason why firefighters are required to recertify annually on bail-out procedures. The techniques outlined here are inherently dangerous and extreme caution should be exercised. If you’re going to practice, and you should, use a ground floor window. The hard part is getting out the window, not the descent.

On Belay

Using a bail-out kit to evacuate a structure under duress is a difficult and risky proposition. No magazine article — not even one of ours — is a replacement for professional training. Fortunately, these kits are in use by most firefighters around the country. If you think this is a tool that may be a good fit for you, talking to your local Fire Department for more information or even training is an excellent starting point. There are also a number of private companies who teach technical rescue skills to citizens and government entities alike. A quick internet search should furnish you with a number of options to get spun up on this unique piece of life-saving gear so you can slide to safety, no matter how high up trouble comes looking for you.

RECOILweb: Expert Advice for Backcountry Hunting

Written by

The following article was originally published in Issue 2 of our sister publication CARNIVORE. It appears here in its entirety with permission. For more articles on guns, training, and gear, go to RECOILweb.com.

Photos by Dave Merrill and Luke Carrick

No tree stands. No bait. No getting trucked in. You are the transportation. You are the logistics. You’re all on your own. If you like backpacking and you like hunting, then perhaps backcountry hunting is right up your alley. But if you’re the type who enjoys a high-fenced canned hunt with guaranteed kills, you should probably be reading another magazine.

Last year, we attended either the very last Magpul Backcountry Hunting Class or the very first class Caylen Wojcik taught at Gunwerks — details are unclear, but the instruction absolutely wasn’t. Wojcik, along with Luke Carrick of Guide Rite Adventures, taught a comprehensive master class.

On the surface, this makes for one of the simplest and one of the most difficult hunting ventures you’re likely to take on. It takes more than just tramping off into the woods without a solid plan — lest you want to experience frustration, and possibly being the ultimate goal of a search-and-rescue mission.

Essentially, it means hiking to a remote location, glassing, hitting your mark, and packing out all of your meat. Oh yeah, and then your gear. Oh yeah, then if you have any energy left, that’s when you go back for your trophy horn-porn, if you’re into that sort of thing.

Today, we’re going to share with you some lessons learned — all are incredibly important to have a successful trip, regardless of the outcome of your hunt.

Multiple methods for making fire are definitely required.

Know Your Limits

This applies to everything. From the weight of your pack and your physical capabilities, to your rifle and yourself. Rule number one isn’t cardio; rule number one is equipping yourself with the discipline needed to work within your physical limitations.

Just spotting an elk or whichever game you’re out for doesn’t mean you can hit it. While there are many who would be fully confident and capable of taking a 900-yard shot on one, if you aren’t, you absolutely shouldn’t. The more you know your rifle and yourself, the better the chances for a successful, humane kill.

This means going out and shooting from compromised positions; strange angles and in bad weather — confident from a bench is entirely different than competence in the field.

Have DOPE cards. Zero before venturing out. Shoot at both high and low angles. Learn how to read wind and apply corrections for your specific rifle and caliber combination. Don’t wound some animal to run off and die a slow, painful death just because you’re an unprepared a**hole.

No tripod mount for binos? No problem. Bungee cords work great.

Being a flat-lander mostly these days, the class treks up the mountain with camping kit, shooting gear, (heavy) camera equipment, and rifle made for some absolutely grueling and grinding days. Had I hit a stairmaster at the local gym wearing a ruck for a couple months before, it wouldn’t have been so bad. On the plus side, it probably made the other students in the class understand that they weren’t the weakest link. Don’t be the weakest link.

No Such Thing as Too Much Stability

This isn’t just about shooting, but about glassing as well. Ever try to handhold a 40x spotting scope? Not. Going. To. Happen. A small travel tripod with a pan/tilt head makes a world of difference. We utilized the compact and inexpensive Benro meFOTO Roadtrip tripod combined with a Vanguard GH-100 pistol-grip head for everything from spotting to shooting. While this offers less stability than a full-on Really Right Stuff setup, it definitely did the job without breaking either back or bank.

One tripod to rule them all — at least when it comes to saving weight.

Additionally, we use sling pressure with the tripod itself to increase stability. Because this was a lighter-weight tripod, a bungee-type sling attached to the belt and the rifle sling itself allowed us to increase pressure for greater support.

Shoot off your pack. Shoot off your rolled-up sleeping pad. Shoot from the most stable position possible at the time.

Years ago, foolishly, I thought trekking poles were just for people who weren’t strong. And then a pair of poles saved me from blowing off the side of one of the Towers of Paine in Chile — big believer ever since.

Not only do trekking poles offer stability when traversing mountains, they also help you keep your legs fresher during ascents, and importantly, can be used as a rifle rest, if needed. While we still have a bipod mounted on the rifle, and a tripod as a secondary, knowing how to use poles for shooting is a great easy-button when you need it.

When used correctly, trekking poles make for an excellent base.

Consolidate & Save Weight

The longer subtitle should be: Consolidate where you can, not where you shouldn’t. The rule of any backpacking trip is to have as many multipurpose items as possible. But sometimes that may put you in the realm of suboptimal equipment. On our venture to the mountains of Washington, support gear included a Bushnell ConX rangefinder, tripod, Kestrel Elite ballistic computer, a pair of Vortex Razor HD 10x binoculars, and a Vortex Razor HD 22-48x spotting scope.

An easy way to lighten the load would’ve been to use a smaller rangefinder. But taking it a step further by using a set of rangefinding binos would be even better (see our rangefinder buyer’s guide elsewhere in this issue). And if you have a weatherproof cellphone? Using the Applied Ballistics app might be an option to go without your Kestrel.

While some don’t see the point of having both a spotting scope and binoculars, it’s far easier to see detail at range with a decent spotting scope. Despite the additional weight and bulk, we didn’t consolidate here. However, many will forgo the spotting scope in favor of using binoculars. While a great many binos have a tripod mount on them, you don’t necessarily need one. Instead, use some bungee cords with balls on the end to secure them to your tripod — far more stable than hand-holding in any situation.

Summer or not, bring cold weather gear.

Your rifle doesn’t have to be über light, so long as you know how to carry it. We were using a custom Surgeon rifle chambered in .260 Remington with a Bushnell Elite Tactical LRTS 4.5-18x in a GDI mount on top. While this is a decidedly heavier rifle than most would take into the backcountry, it was also a rifle we knew inside and out, and could be confident grabbing game at distances we wouldn’t be comfortable when shooting something with half the heft.

There’s No Bad Weather…

… Just inappropriate clothing and gear. Layering is key: Regardless of what month of the year it is, you may find yourself cold and wet, especially as you gain altitude. Whether regular backpacking or in the midst of a full-on backcountry hunt, always bring gear for cold and inclement weather.

Down-insulated jackets are lightweight, pack small, and keep you warm. Even if it’s July you want one along with a watch cap, gloves, a base layer, and a hard-shell exterior layer. We’re not saying that you need an Arc’teryx Beta SL, but it works damn well for that purpose.

Heavy is the head that wears the crown — and also the load of one who carries this awesome Surgeon. We found the...

Sleep matters too. If you end up in cold weather, a standard sleeping pad won’t do you much good — all the insulation in your bag compresses when you lay down on it. We’re big fans of the Big Agnes insulated air core pads to keep your body from being frozen at night.

Prepare to Wait

Glassing the countryside is not for those that get bored easily. You’ll spend hours on a mountaintop viewing all of the surrounding terrain. While you may think this is time for some music or a podcast, you’d be wrong: There are still predators in North America that would love nothing more than to eat you for lunch. If you’re the type of person who always needs mental stimulation, this one isn’t for you.

But more than that, sitting for long periods of time can be uncomfortable. While there are specialized seats expressly for this purpose, we went the “consolidation” route and opted for an InstantCamp AL-101 Ultralight inflatable pillow. At a mere 2.4 ounces, it kept our head off the ground at night, and made for a great seat while glassing.

Backup Your Backups

Navigating by GPS? Cool — also have a map and a compass. Is your fire plan solely a BIC Lighter? Carry two — and then some waterproof matches on top of that. Water filter? Great — also throw in some iodine tablets. The failure of one single piece of equipment in your gear shouldn’t compromise your ability to survive.

If your rifle breaks, the hunt itself may be over, but your ability to get home safely shouldn’t be compromised. Unless you get attacked by a predator. We suggest a big-bore pistol as a backup, and hey, you never know, you might get a shot at the critter you were hunting all along.

We also can’t stress enough to let someone else know where you’re going — one James Franco movie about a man cutting off his own arm with a dull knife is enough.

Backup your backups. And for Chrissakes learn how to read a map.

Loose Rounds

Ultimately, we learned there’s far more nuance to backcountry hunting than just a combination of backpacking and hunting. It’s a situation where you absolutely don’t know what you don’t know, which is why courses like these exist in the first place. Even if you’re damn sure you know it all, attending a class with someone with extensive experience such as Caylen Wojcik or Luke Carrick is highly advised before your first trip out.

Pocket Preps: Impact Tools

Written by

In case you haven’t noticed, there’s an ongoing theme to our Pocket Preps column: It’s helpful to carry the right tools for the job. If you’re trying to work loose a screw, a multi-tool with a built-in screwdriver will make it easy. Trying to use the blade of your knife, a coin, or your fingernail will not. If you need to see in the dark, you want a dedicated flashlight, not a BIC lighter or the tiny LED on your expensive and fragile smartphone.

When it comes to self-defense, your mind may automatically jump to a gun or knife as “the right tool.” While we’ve often emphasized the value of carrying each of these items, they’re not the ideal solution to every scenario. There are plenty of cases where carrying a gun or knife is impractical, or even illegal — but that doesn’t mean you have to face your attacker bare-handed, either.

In a broader sense, impact tools can also include pens and flashlights. (Photo via Tiga Tactics)

Handheld impact tools serve as a less-lethal force-multiplier, amplifying the power of punches, hammer-fist strikes, and submission holds. These are commonly referred to as pocket sticks or self-defense keychains, and can be made from wood, metal, or hard polymer. Purpose-built tools such as the Kubotan (or genericized kubaton), yawara, and koppo stick also fit the theme. They can be used lightly to inflict pain and deter a threat, or slammed hard against flesh and bone to deal more lasting damage.

Although flashlights and tactical pens can serve as impact weapons, that purpose is secondary. So, today we’ll take a look at some pocket-sized tools that are more specifically oriented toward self-defense. Many of them contribute other helpful functions to your EDC loadout, and each offers an effective way to put the hurt on a bad guy. As always, check your local laws to make sure these are legal in your area before purchasing.

Boker Plus SO4PRO-K Titanium

OAL: 5.1 inches
Weight: 2.8 ounces
MSRP: $62
URL: bokerusa.com

This impact tool was designed by Rainer Wenning as a modernized variant of the Japanese koppo stick, traditionally a wooden rod with a retention loop around the middle and ring fingers. Wenning’s version is constructed from lightweight Grade 4 titanium, with dual cord loops for the fingers and thumb. These help the user hold onto the tool, even when repeatedly striking adversaries with the round tip. However, this isn’t solely intended as a weapon — Boker says it was also developed as a massage tool for relieving muscle spasms and encouraging lymph drainage.

Pros:

  • Smooth, rounded tip is ideal for blunt impacts without cutting or piercing.
  • Although we don’t plan to use it for massages, we can see how it could be effective for that purpose

Cons:

  • Retention loops are excessively loose, and can’t be cinched down easily.

DUUTY Self Defense Keychain Kubaton Weapon

OAL: 5.5 inches
Weight: 1.1 ounces
MSRP: $8 for 6 / $1.33 each
URL: amazon.com

Hilariously described as an “aluminum anti wolf tool keyring for women teens man” on Amazon, this generic kubaton proudly proclaims its ability to “reject and resist hurts of life.” We purchased a six-pack for just $8, including free one-day shipping. The following afternoon, we received a plastic bag with the individually wrapped aluminum impact tools, each with a different anodized finish. Four finger grooves and a flat end offer a comfortable and secure grip, and the tapered tip is more than sufficient to inflict pain on an attacker. Key rings are included.

Pros:

  • While calling it an “anti wolf tool” is a stretch, it’s certainly sufficient for defense against humans.
  • Despite obvious quality-control issues, it serves the intended purpose at a throwaway price.

Cons:

  • Shoddy build quality — anodizing had bare spots, and one tool arrived with leftover machining scraps in the bag

Krudo Knives Krubaton

OAL: 5.9 inches
Weight: 2.1 ounces
MSRP: $125
URL: krudoknives.com

The Krubaton serves three functions. First, as indicated by the name, it’s a blunt impact weapon — or as designer Louis Krudo calls it, a “pain compliance tool.” At just under 6 inches long, the titanium body offers more than enough length to hammer an attacker’s weak points. Unscrew the cap on one end to reveal a tungsten carbide glass breaker; unscrew the other end to access a pen that accepts standard Parker ink refills. These caps are conveniently reversible, and one features a slim, removable pocket clip. Three finishes are available: brushed, matte blue, and matte gold.

Pros:

  • Intricately machined titanium construction looks cool and provides a secure grip.
  • Reversible caps allow it to be carried with either the glass breaker or pen at the ready.

Cons:

  • Cutaways in the caps and body are magnets for dirt and pocket lint.

LionSteel Eskaper ES-1

OAL: 4.2 inches
Weight: 1.6 ounces
MSRP: $36
URL: lionsteel.it

Italian knifemaker LionSteel created the Eskaper as a multi-function keychain tool with an emphasis on elegant aesthetics. The 303 stainless steel body is machined with a spiral pattern and bears a satin finish. At the top of the tool, there’s an included keyring and a bottle opener cutout. The tip is finished with a threaded tungsten carbide glass-breaker insert, which is removable and replaceable. As a dedicated self-defense impact tool, it’s on the small end of the spectrum, but would be sufficient in a pinch.

Pros:

  • Compact, understated design doesn’t look like a weapon
  • Glass-breaker tip can be removed with a ¼-inch socket, turning the tool into a blunt instrument.

Cons:

  • Although its small size fits comfortably on a keychain, it’s at least ½-inch shorter than we’d like for an impact tool.

RaidOps Jared Wihongi Kubo Aro

OAL: 5.6 inches
Weight: 2.2 ounces
MSRP: $155 + $28 for tungsten tip
URL: aperturefightfocused.com

Contributing writer Jared Wihongi has spent decades studying the Filipino martial arts system of Pekiti-Tirsia Kali, which emphasizes edged and impact weapons. He teaches these skills to military and law enforcement organizations around the world. While working in South Korea, he collaborated with local gear maker RaidOps to create his signature edition Kubo Aro. It’s composed of solid Grade 5 titanium alloy, which is double heat-treated and finished in a subtle dark brown. The ¾-inch diameter is reminiscent of a flashlight, but its one-piece construction is far more durable. Recessed threads in the crenelated end accept an optional carbide tip.

Pros:

  • Exceptionally comfortable thanks to its large diameter and textured grip
  • Weight feels just right — heavy enough to deliver hard impacts, but light enough to remain maneuverable.

Cons:

  • Lacks a clip for pocket carry, though a Kydex neck sheath is available for $35

RMJ Tactical Tusk

OAL: 6 inches

Weight: 3.3 ounces

MSRP: $180

URL: rmjtactical.com

Made in America from a single piece of CPM-3V steel, the Tusk delivers the high-end build quality we’ve come to expect from RMJ Tactical. It features a chisel-like prybar tip on one end and a cord/line cutter on the other, as well as a removable titanium pocket clip. However, we have mixed feelings about the circular blade, which is surface-mounted atop a hook-shaped guide. There’s not much to protect its edge, especially if you’re tightly pressing it against your skin while using the tool.

Pros:

  • Chisel tip will generate immediate pain when jammed into a pressure point.
  • Blade cuts cord, strips wires, and opens letters with ease.

Cons:

  • The flush-mounted blade is too exposed for our liking. Its ramped hook guides objects onto the razor-sharp edge — good for cordage, bad for a pocket hem or the side of a finger.

Scorpion 6 Pingvin

OAL: 4.6 inches
Weight: 2.6 ounces
MSRP: $250
URL: scorpionsixknives.com

Pingvin is the Norwegian word for penguin, and this tool resembles the side profile of that strange bird. The body is machined from a piece of super-durable O1 tool steel, and the “wing” is a Grade 5 titanium pocket clip — a variety of color and surface texture options are available for each. A large index finger ring enables the user to draw it quickly from a pocket and strike with two “attitude adjuster” knuckle spikes (they also function as glass-breakers). The base of the tool incorporates a bottle/package opener and prybar/scraper.

Pros:

  • A punch with the spiked ring is sure to ruin a bad guy’s day.
  • Designed to fit into MOLLE-compatible webbing with the index finger ring exposed for quick access

Cons:

  • We could do without the top spike — it’s not as easy to hit with, and restricts thumb placement for hammer-fist strikes.

Read More for Pocket Preps

Review: Mora Bushcraft Survival Knife

Written by

One of the most versatile and arguably most important items in any survival loadout is a good fixed-blade knife. That's why these tools are a frequent subject of discussion in our publications. Most knives will easily withstand cutting cordage or opening packages, but such menial tasks aren't appropriate representations of the challenges they'd face in a real survival situation. For example, you might need to shave tinder, skin and section animals, spear fish, chop through saplings or small trees, defend against predators, and so much more. These tasks range from delicate precision to pure brute force, and must be accomplished reliably in a variety of conditions. The knife is central to every one of these needs.

While a good knife is essential, it's not the only tool you need. What about a fire-starter? That's just as valuable, if not more important in some settings. What about a way to keep your knife nice and sharp? A diamond sharpening stone will allow you to maintain its edge in the field, and preserve its effectiveness. Now pack that all into a concise package and you've got yourself a very handy survival kit. That's exactly what Mora created with its Bushcraft Survival Knife, which the company calls its “ultimate survival knife.”

The Morakniv Story

The municipality of Mora, Sweden, has been a hub for cutlery manufacturing for over 400 years. Over the centuries, the knives of Mora have become world-renowned for their simplicity and durability. Morakniv is one of several companies with a rich knife making history that call Mora home. You may know Morakniv for its survival tools, but since 1891, the company has made knives for everything from cooking to industrial utility. They have taken what they learned over the past 128 years to ensure the knives they produce are the highest quality, and worthy of the Morakniv name and lifetime warranty.

We've tested various Morakniv blades over the years, from the inexpensive 511 Basic to the top-of-the-line Garberg Black Carbon. Most recently, we picked up a knife with a name that clearly conveys its purpose — the Mora Bushcraft Survival. Specifically, we chose the high-visibility orange model, which will be easy to spot in any outdoor setting. This package is billed as the ultimate bushcraft knife, however, is it comprised of more than a simple bladed tool.

Mora Bushcraft Survival Knife

The knife itself is made from robust 3.2mm-thick stainless steel, ground to a modified clip point shape. The blade is 4.25 inches long, with the handle being right at 5 inches long. The knife itself weighs 4.2 ounces, or 7.5 ounces with the sheath and accessories.

The thick spine of the blade is specifically designed with 90-degree edges to be used with a ferro rod, magnesium block, or other fire-starter. In fact, this Bushcraft package includes a ferro rod that attaches directly to the sheath, and is said to be good for 7,000 strikes. The sheath design locks it firmly in place to prevent it from falling out during intense physical activity.

The handle of the knife is made of a soft, grippy polymer. While the texture is subtle and feels good in the hand, it can be a bit slick when wet. A nice index finger guard, or quillion, helps keep the knife centered during use and helps to prevent finger damage during push cuts. The hidden tang extends through the handle and terminates at a hard polymer lug in the pommel. This is useful as an improvised crushing or smashing tool, and even though it's not solid steel, it's extremely sturdy.

The handle of this Morakniv is comfortable, even after long periods of use.

Sheath & Accessories

This knife comes with a hard sheath comprised of two-tone orange and black polymer. Incorporated into the sheath is a diamond sharpening stone. This ensures that you always have a sharp knife in hand. Knife retention in the sheath is solid, but does rely on tension as opposed to any type of secondary clip or strap that might be more secure for a survival knife.

A diamond stone built into the sheath ensures you have the opportunity to sharpen the blade at any time.

The high-vis orange colored knife handle and sheath allow the Bushcraft Survival knife it to be quickly located in your bag, around the campsite, or anywhere else you may need it. The sheath also features two different styles of clips: a standard molded tension-style pocket/belt clip and a one-piece belt loop. No matter what your loadout includes, there's almost always a spot for this knife.

Testing the Blade

Scraping the sharp edges of the spine on the included ferro rod produced large sparks with ease.

During use in the woods, the knife felt good in our hands. The soft polymer allowed for extended periods of use with little fatigue. Even with its sturdy blade and light handle, the knife balances well. Out of the package, it had a fine edge supported by the classic Scandi grind that Mora is known for.

The flat bevel is finished with a barely-visible deburring grind at the edge.

Cutting paper, various types of cordage, and cloth was almost effortless with the Bushcraft Survival knife. The same went for cardboard, straps, and thicker fabrics. However, where this Morakniv Bushcraft knife really showed its worth was in cutting branches and even small trees. The simple Scandi grind allows it to hold an edge well, and makes it easy to re-sharpen with a few passes on the diamond stone. The point was sharp enough to smoothly pierce hard wood. With the blade's grind extending all the way to the handle, making precise cuts was a lot easier.

We were very pleased with the Morakniv Bushcraft Survival knife. The quality of the product is apparent during use, and you can tell the Swedes put considerable thought into its design and features. It's especially important to note than this knife has an MSRP of $70 as well as a lifetime warranty. If you're looking for a reliable tool that can take a beating without emptying your wallet, this is a difficult knife to beat.

Pros:

  • Well-rounded survival knife package
  • Strong, sturdy blade that keeps an edge even when beat on relentlessly
  • Solid sheath that keeps all the pieces together

Cons:

  • Rubberized handle can be slick when wet
  • A secondary retention clip on the sheath would make it more secure over the long term

For more information on this knife and the many others that Mora produces, visit them at MoraknivUSA.com.

Read More

Don’t miss essential survival insights—sign up for Recoil Offgrid's free newsletter today!

Check out our other publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade | RecoilTV | RECOILtv (YouTube)

The Way of the Tijuana Donkey – Ed Calderon’s Gray Man Mindset

Written by

“If necessary you should choose to disguise yourself as a shukke [monk], yamabushi [hermit], merchant or anything else that you feel is appropriate to the situation. Pilgrims have a good reason to move around shrines and temples. For this purpose, which is different from other cases, it may be better for you to move as a company of two or three people. In such cases, the technique of dakkō, to understand all the local customs and dialects, is used.” — Quote taken from the Shoninki, as written in 1681 by Master Ninja Natori Masazumi

I recently found myself standing on a corner in downtown Tijuana, waiting for the light to change so I could cross the street, when I saw a man walking a donkey painted as a zebra. He was on his way to work at one of the famous picture stands on Revolution Avenue. Anywhere else on the planet, a man walking down the street with a donkey covered in zebra stripes would certainly draw attention. But the famed “zonkeys” of Tijuana have been a familiar sight in the tourist districts of this city since the 1930s, when gambling was outlawed in Mexico and the industrious local track owners had to find a new way to procure American dollars from tourists.

No one batted an eye at this spectacle, no one took a cell phone picture, no one looked and pointed. No one except an American standing next to me, that is. This zonkey was in its natural environment. It was part of the baseline normal and no matter how outlandish, the majority of the people around me didn’t even acknowledge it.

Certainly, nobody noticed the man leading it — and this is the way of the zonkey.

Adapting Your Appearance

What can people know about you from the clothes you have on? From brand names and fabrics, to wear patterns and the detergent you use, every piece of apparel has a narrative to it. This is especially true when you’re abroad — the story your clothes tell can speak volumes when you travel. Blending in with tourists and blending in with the locals are two very different things, but it has been my experience there’s a midpoint between the two that’s worth trying to find. Rather than being single-minded in your approach, realize there’s a time and place for blending in and for sticking out. Both can deliver you from bad situations.

Above: Clothes are usually a product of their environment and the season. Pick local colors.

No matter which path you choose, deception is always a factor. Remember to keep any white lie or fib within the reality of your knowledge base or your ability to produce evidence of its truthfulness. For example, if you decide to play the part of a Canadian tourist without knowing a few basic things about that country and the region you claim to be from, then you’re setting yourself up for more questions and deeper inspection. Don’t lie if you don’t need to — this includes lying with your clothes. If your clothing is going to be a conversation starter, you’d better have good answers at the ready.

Adapting your outward appearance to fit in with the local population is difficult if it isn’t your own culture you’re trying to meld with. There are major things like skin color and morphology, and small details like your personal odor and dental work, that make being a “gray man” a truly difficult thing to pull off in a completely alien environment.

What's out of place in this image?

The first question to ask yourself is: Am I truly trying to disappear into the background noise?

Start by realizing that becoming gray or just plain boring and unremarkable isn’t something everyone can do everywhere. By this I mean there’ll be factors that determine if this is a viable approach. Is your morphology, ethnicity, sex, and skin tone common enough in the environment to make it easy for you to blend into the crowds? This takes some honest self-assessment. and realistically, all the mute colors and common brands of clothes won’t help much when you’re a 6-foot blonde in the middle of southern Mexico. Zonkeys blend in well on Revolution Avenue, not in the middle of Ooltewah, Tennessee.

Above: One of the layers of urban camo are cultural. Don't use any of these layers without knowing what they communicate.

Surveying the Population

Another thing to consider is that the environment itself sometimes has different crowds in it. For example, some places will be littered with pedestrian tourists as well as locals. What crowd are you trying to blend into? Tijuana’s Revolution Avenue, for example, will have at least three distinct sets of crowds moving through it at any given time:

1) The locals: A mix of people from Tijuana passing through on their way to work, or to grab a cab, or some of the locals joining in the nightlife and preying on the tourists. Is it possible to blend in with this group? A local soccer team jersey could do more for you than a gray T-shirt without any branding on it. Small elements like how to hold a cigarette, what cell phone brand you use, what you order to eat, and how you smell can make people skip taking a second look. It’s an art not many can credibly pull off, but it’s possible. Look around and get these details down, then gradually infuse yourself with these specifics. Want to smell local? Wash your clothes with locally sourced detergent, shampoo, soap, eat local, and avoid exotic perfume or deodorant. This may be hard to believe, but subconsciously, people will smell you before they look at you at times. Anything out of the normal may cause an observant local to examine you more closely.

Above: It's about the crowds, not the background. We can wear whatever narrative we want to communicate.

2) The labor: People who work the shops and bars or have a work-related reason for being there. They’ll look exceedingly comfortable, as this is their daily environment, and project confidence in having a reason for being there. That’s something hard for many people to replicate, especially if you have a language barrier. Projecting confidence and acting like you belong in an alien environment is a skill set in and of itself, but it’s not impossible. For example, wear black pants and a black polo shirt at some of the bars in this tourist district and watch how many people try to give your their order.

3) The travelers: Not all tourists are made the same, so try to spot those who don’t belong next time you’re in a heavy tourist area. They may share a few commonalities as far as marveling at the sites and sounds that locals don’t even acknowledge. But other things might be different, such as clothes, diets, cell phones, and accents. American passports are not as popular as they once were in some places. Blending in with a non-American tourist crowd might be a lifesaving skill in some more inhospitable parts of the world. However, don’t forget the previous point about background knowledge before you claim to be a Canadian, Aussie, or Brit.

Try to focus on what’s possible. Some call this a baseline, but I like to think of it as endemics. What’s natural in the space you’re moving in? What will attract the least amount of attention? Or what will attract attention but can be used to your advantage? Wearing a construction vest near a major worksite will cast your unfamiliar face into an easily discernible narrative to any locals you may encounter. Social engineering techniques such as tailgating, pretexting, or diversion can help you avoid attention or redirect it elsewhere.

How to Build Your Narrative When Traveling

Keep in mind that small elements like local sport team apparel can change the narrative you give off to the casual observer. Nuanced things like using a locally sourced clothing detergent, eating local cuisine, and using a more common deodorant in that area will help you avoid turning the heads of more attentive individuals.

Above: There is such a thing as overdoing it. Usually the evasive individual will stick out in the unaware crowd.

To start with, lay your clothing out on the floor. Go to Google Street view or look up recent images from the places you’ll be moving through on social media. Look at the crowds in the area and note the most common color palettes you see. What are the people there wearing at various times of the year? Will your Hawaiian shirt stick out in the middle of Oaxaca?

There are people who talk about being a gray man, completely invisible to the common observer through selection of discreet clothes in plain colors. While this seems advisable on the surface, careful consideration will reveal that this two-dimensional approach isn’t always the optimal tactic. The aforementioned characteristics — the color of your skin, the quality of your dental work, your taste in food, and the language you speak will quickly betray your toned-down presentation, no matter how drab your fashion choices are.

I train people to manipulate the narrative they present through their appearance. Rather than blending in, I teach students to think more along the lines of being aware of what they’re wearing and the story it tells — it’s the difference between how a zebra hides in a group of zebras and how a chameleon hides in the leaves. Both need to be options in your toolkit.

Above: Planning and education starts before you even pack. Go on Google maps and start building your pallet. 

If you’re planning to carry around something for offensive purposes, try to use the same thought process in choosing your weapon(s). Carry something that’s at home in the region you’re moving in. Not being allowed to carry something isn’t the same as not being able to. Stack the odds in your favor where you can. South Africa? Get an okapi knife, it’s very affordable and the most commonly available knife in the region. Carry what the locals would carry — it’s a good idea on many levels. And if you do have to cut some cheesecake in the middle of the Cape Town Flats, your knife won’t make people question you further.

A Few Simple Rules

Avoid wearing anything with logos or text on it that can tell an observer something about you, like where you’re from or where you went to school. Remember that all of these small elements, especially when combined with social media, will give someone a very deep insight into your life unless you scrub your physical and digital persona continuously.

Above: Normal is fluid. Find the normal baseline for wherever you are and learn what's considered out of place. Look at how the locals react and use them as a reference.

Capabilities, training, skills, and prior military experience should be kept to yourself. Avoid wearing anything tactical or mil-spec when out in the world. I’ve had student traveler’s come back with horror stories about being questioned by local police or criminals over something as simple as carrying a tourniquet on a belt or tactical branded pants. Do an honest self-assessment of your clothes and the bags you are going to carry before you go.

If you’re going to lie with your appearance, be educated in that lie. If you’re running around with a soccer jersey, know what the score of their last match was and the names of their main players. Don’t dig yourself a hole you can’t climb out of.

If all else fails, keep moving.

And remember, none of this will work if you’re traveling with a group that isn’t in on the planning — the entire entourage should endeavor to present a cohesive narrative in everything they do. Using numbers and strategizing as a group, including having a backup plan for anything and everything that can and will go wrong, will greatly improve your odds if things go sideways. Stillness is death.

About the Author

For over a decade, Ed Calderon worked in the fields of counter-narcotics, organized crime investigation, and public safety in the northern-border region of Mexico. Learn more about his survival courses at edsmanifesto.com.

New: Team Wendy Radio Rig

Written by

Team Wendy, a company probably best known for its line of ballistic and bump helmets, has released a new chest rig designed for use by the SAR (Search and Rescue) community. The new comms platform, which is fully compatible with PALS/MOLLE accessories, is known as the Team Wendy Radio Rig. It's said to offer “an abundance of compartmentalization without compromising mobility,” and comes with three pouch sizes (small, medium, and large) to accommodate a variety of radios or GPS units. There's also a weather-resistant zippered pouch to hold your smartphone or other more fragile portable electronics.

Team Wendy's CEO, Jose Rizo-Patron, says: “We strive to provide our clients with optimal solutions by identifying gaps and filling unmet needs in the market. Through our ongoing engagement with several domestic and international SAR communities, it was clear to us that they needed a comfortable, purpose-built communications rig that includes a better approach for cable management. Our Radio Rig also serves as a complementary solution to our widely fielded EXFIL SAR helmets.”

Whether you're a professional first responder or a prepper who's looking for a better way to organize your communication equipment, the new Radio Rig should serve as a convenient host for a comms platform and GPS (though it's still up to you to know where you are even if you do have a GPS). Its modular construction means you can spec it out however best serves your mission; throw a hydration bladder between your shoulder blades, carry a search and rescue drone, or add medical gear and magazine carriers.

The new platform consists of angled, laser-cut PALS webbing to accommodate the included pouches or other MOLLE-compatible gear. By releasing a pair of Fidlock magnetic buckles, the front panel of the chest rig folds forward, revealing a transparent, touch-screen compatible pouch that's designed to hold a cell phone, maps, or documents. The zipper at the top of the front panel opens to an organized admin pocket and a cable management pocket with wiring pass-throughs. The pack is said to be slim enough to be worn under a backpack if necessary.

Team Wendy also partnered with comms gear manufacturer Silynx to develop a special version of the CLARUS XPR in-ear communications system wired specifically for the Radio Rig and EXFIL SAR helmet. It consists of an in-ear headset, control box, dual comm splitter, and your choice of a smartphone adapter or one of four radio adapters. The company says this setup is “compatible with 95 percent of radios on the market – including the Motorola APX.”

Learn more about the Team Wendy Radio Rig at TeamWendy.com.

RECOILtv: The Self-Defense Circle of Awareness

Written by

In any survival scenario, situational awareness is critical. We often think of that term solely in the context of observing your surroundings — for example, looking or listening for signs of incoming threats. But situational awareness also extends to your every-day carry gear. Is your gun always in the same place on your body, and have you confirmed recently that it's maintained, loaded, and ready to use? Is your flashlight battery dead? Is your knife sharp and ready to draw consistently? What about medical gear? These are questions you must answer before an emergency occurs.

In the following RECOILtv video, Bill Rapier of Am Tac Shooting discusses a technique he calls “the circle of awareness.” It was derived from skydiving, where each participant has to be continually scanning for external issues (e.g. other divers they might collide with) as well as internal issues (e.g. problems with the altimeter or chute handles). Overlooking either one of these factors could lead to a jumper making “a very insignificant divot in the earth,” as Rapier says.

The circle of awareness is “a lifestyle, a way of thinking about things continuously” as well as a means of loading a concealed-carry firearm. Rapier explains how it involves framing the weapon in an elevated work space, seating a magazine, racking the slide while keeping the muzzle on target, and confirming that a round has been chambered properly. Whether you're going through these steps in your bedroom before leaving the house or during a chaotic firefight, they could mean the difference between being confident your gun will go bang and finding out the hard way that it didn't.

New: Primitive Technology Survivalist Guide Book

Written by

We've been following the YouTube channel known as Primitive Technology for several years now — the odds are good that you might be another one of its 9.8 million subscribers. Despite creating what some may see as simple content, devoid of flashy editing, music, or even narration, this Australian YouTuber has turned his hobby of teaching primitive survival skills into a successful full-time job. While streaming video is a great way to demonstrate these skills, it's not readily-accessible in off-grid settings, so he has created a hardcover survivalist guide book you can bring into the backcountry.

The man behind the channel, who we now know as John Plant, wrote the following statement to announce the book:

“This video coincides with the release of my new book “Primitive Technology,” which releases exactly 4 years and 6 months since my first video post on this channel. This video compilation, as well as the book, outlines all the skills and achievements I've attained in this time period using research, hard work and trial and error. Writing this book is something I wanted to do even before making videos and launching this channel. I wanted to offer something tangible that benefited those who had the same keen interest in primitive technology as I do. With that, I thank each and every one of you for your continued support throughout the years, and I really hope you enjoy the book.”

At 192 pages, the Primitive Technology book is said to feature “50 projects with step-by-step instructions on how to make tools, weapons, shelters, pottery, clothing, and more.” It also includes illustrations, sidebars with historical background on the primitive skills, as well as tips for finding materials and constructing components. This book is available today, October 29th, in hardcover form for $14 or as a Kindle ebook for $10.

For more information on Primitive Technology: A Survivalist's Guide to Building Tools, Shelters, and More in the Wild, go to PenguinRandomHouse.com.

OFFGRID Library of Recommended Books