RECOILtv: Home Defense Strong Points

You awake in the middle of the night to the sound of breaking glass and footsteps in your house. You know that you may be facing a home intruder, or possibly even multiple intruders. As you slip out of bed and grab your gun from the nightstand, your wife looks to you for instruction. What do you say? Obviously, it's a good idea to have her call the police immediately, but what else should she do to maximize her safety while you clear the house? This scenario is the subject of the most recent RECOILtv Training Tune Ups video with Dan Brokos.

A typical untrained intruder will enter the door as it opens, creating a blind spot you can exploit.

Remaining in a defensible static position seems easy enough — just find some cover or concealment in the room, and keep a gun at the ready in the direction of the door. However, some parts of the room are preferable for this tactic, which Brokos calls strong-pointing. Specifically, most homes have push doors that swing into the room. This means that the intruder, who probably won't be trained in CQB tactics, is likely to enter the room without checking this blind spot first.

Again, all of this may sound obvious to you, but it's worth communicating this information to family members ahead of time. This will ensure they're prepared for a home intruder situation, rather than looking to you for instructions. This advice is also useful for kids — they can be taught to hide on the inside of the door hinge until the all-clear is given. If they're old enough to be armed and defend themselves from that position, that's even better.

For more of Dan Brokos' tips for home defense and CQB tactics, check out the RECOILtv Training Tune Ups channel.


Cold Open – Part 2: Cold-Weather Clothing Buyer’s Guide

Winter Eyewear

ESS Influx Cold Weather Goggle

 

MSRP
$135

URL
www.esseyepro.com

Notes: ESS is a subsidiary of Oakley and focuses specifically on eyewear. Their Influx Cold Weather Goggles are geared toward tactical use. We felt they were a great value and never fogged up on us. Shooters will be happy to know they meet U.S. Mil-spec MIL-PRF-32432, ANSI Z87.1-2015, OSHA and CE EN166 ballistic protection standards. They come with three 3mm polycarbonate lens choices, which we found easy to remove and switch out. The headband has a sliding sleeve on it to keep the lens protected when not in use, and it also comes with a carrying case that has Velcro attachments to hook it onto your belt or backpack. The fleece-lined face foam was comfortable and did a great job wicking away moisture. Although we appreciated how form fitting they were, anyone wearing corrective lenses might have to switch to contacts, as the goggles might be too narrow to wear with most eyeglasses. Made in the USA.

Pros:

  • Comes with clear, smoke gray, and alpenglow (amber) lenses
  • Headband is removable
  • Lens cleaner included

Cons:

  • Only available in white
  • A bit too narrow to wear with corrective lenses

Oakley Line Miner Snow Goggle

MSRP
$120 to $150

URL
www.oakley.com

Notes: The Line Miner from Oakley provided impressive forward and peripheral vision with wide, high lenses. They meet the ANSI Z87.1 and EN 166 standards for goggle impact protection, but are intended more for outdoor activity than military “ballistic” standards. These goggles were wide enough to accommodate corrective lenses, and we never had an issue with fogging or moisture evaporation. According to the manufacturer, the injection-molded Plutonite lenses provide 100-percent protection against UVA/UVB/UVC and harmful blue light up to 400nm. Other lens options are sold separately, though changing them out is a little tricky till you get the hang of it. Lens thickness is 2.34mm. Made in China.

Pros:

  • Numerous goggle and lens color combos
  • “Asian Fit” sizes available
  • Shape is compatible with most helmets

Cons:

  • Headband not removable
  • No carrying case; microbag only provides minimal protection
  • Only comes with one lens

Winter Outerwear

Eddie Bauer Vinson Down Parka

MSRP
$299 to $317

URL
www.eddiebauer.com

Notes: You definitely feel like you’re getting a lot of value for this parka. It’s machine washable and the Velcro wrist closures, elasticized cuffs, drawstrings on the waist and hood, and zipper/button front closure ensure that cold had a hard time getting through. With all the extra storage, fasteners for the openings, and full-bodied lining, you certainly know you’re wearing a jacket intended for harsh weather — in other words, it’s not light. We loved the abundance of large pockets with Velcro or zippered closures. Even though we’re fairly sure firearms weren’t a consideration in the design, a pass-through on one of the external pockets would enable the wearer to retrieve something of the concealed persuasion much more discretely. The parka had an expected low waist to it. Combined with the Cordura/nylon material, it held up very well in winter weather. Made in Bangladesh.

Pros:

  • Faux fur is removable
  • Comes with a balaclava
  • Storage galore with nine pockets

Cons:

  • Hood itself can’t be removed
  • Only comes in two colors

Eddie Bauer Powder Search 2.0 Insulated Pants

MSRP
$113 to $125

URL
www.eddiebauer.com

Pros:

  • Tall sizes available
  • Inexpensive
  • Two zippered thigh vents

Cons:

  • No full-length leg zippers for fast removal

Notes: The Powder Search 2.0 Insulated Pants also provide quite a bit of value for a comparatively low cost with features absent on other brands we tested. The pants were very comfortable and the polyester/nylon materials worked well to insulate for warmth. Their StormRepel Super DWR finish repelled rainwater effectively and the elasticized ankles on the lining performed well to keep snow from creeping into footwear. Although these pants don’t have zippers along the legs to be donned quickly, they do have an elasticized waist with Velcro cinch straps to adjust to your liking. The addition of belt loops and a D-ring attachment were nice touches. Two zippered hip pockets, along with two Velcro flap-closure thigh pockets, allow for plenty of storage. Made in Vietnam.

Arc’teryx Camosun Parka

MSRP
$649

URL
www.arcteryx.com

Notes: Although this parka can definitely hold its own keeping you warm, it doesn’t feel heavy or cumbersome. The Gore-Tex material is light but robust enough to repel the elements. Its design is simple and practical for winter sports and extended outdoor activity. It ‘s stylish enough for urban wear and could even pass for a raincoat since the waist is higher than most parkas. The hood can be removed via snap-button attachments if desired and pulled snug with drawstrings if you’re getting hit hard by the wind. Two external hand pockets and one internal pocket with zippered closures are sufficient for a decent amount of storage. The sleeves were fairly snug with internal cuffs, but we were surprised there aren’t any drawstrings to make the waist a bit tighter. Made in China.

Pros:

  • Practical for a variety of uses
  • Feels much lighter than it looks
  • Arc’teryx branding visibility is subtle, unlike some companies that add huge logos everywhere

Cons:

  • Price is quite a bit higher than many of its competitors
  • Only three colors

Arc’teryx LEAF Cold WX Pant SV Men’s

MSRP
$89

URL
www.arcteryx.com

Notes: When it comes to cold-weather clothing, the LEAF line from Arc’teryx is well known for its quality. The level of thermal protection against both wind and direct contact with snow you’ll get from the Gore-Tex material and Climashield lining is top notch. These pants are surprisingly comfortable and maneuverable for how well-insulated they are. Unless cold-weather work and exposure is a regular occurrence for you, the price might be discouraging. Although the pants are high-waisted, the integrated belt doesn’t really allow for the attachment of any accessories you might like to carry. We’d have to liked to see these in other colors than the two offered, but we really can’t complain about the fit and finish, and have confidence these will hold up to the elements for a long time. Made in Canada.

Pros:

  • Drawstrings on pantleg bottoms are a plus when walking through deep snow
  • Can be easily layered over other clothing and removed quickly with the full-length zippers on each leg
  • Plenty of sizes to choose from

Cons:

  • Only two pockets
  • Beltloops would’ve been a plus in case you’d like to carry more equipment

Varusteleka Särmä TST L7 Camouflage Trousers; Särmä TST L7 Camouflage Anorak

MSRP
$93 (trousers); $140 (anorak)

URL
www.varusteleka.com

Notes: This snow-camo suit is intended to be worn in conjunction with the L5 Thermal Trousers and Anorak for adaptability to environmental changes. They basically have the same zippered vent locations as the L5 combo, and the entire suit is very lightweight. According to the manufacturer, an old trick is to use snow-camo trousers with the “frozen” pattern jacket to mimic the snow on the ground as well as the winter foliage. While the system is very modular, not everyone needs camo, so your color options are confined to those patterns. We’d have liked a pass-through sleeve on the front of the anorak for storage or as a handwarmer. The quality is robust since it’s intended for law enforcement and military, but lack of storage may be an issue for hunters or others who desire this type of clothing. Bottoms have loops for M1950-style suspenders; Varusteleka carries such options. Anorak has drawstrings on hood and waist with Velcro wrist closures, but unfortunately not on the trousers. Made in Estonia.

Pros:

  • Easily to put on and take off over other clothing
  • Surprisingly good insulation for how thin it is
  • Takes up minimal space if packed for impromptu use

Cons:

  • Elasticized waist, but no drawstrings or belt loops
  • No non-camo colors
  • Limited practicality

Varusteleka Särmä TST L3 Loft Jacket; Särmä TST L3 Loft Trousers

MSRP
$75 to $93 (jacket); $93 (pants)

URL
www.varusteleka.com

Notes: The Särmä TST L3 jacket and pants are thin enough to be worn as midlayers, but warm enough to be worn as outer layers. Both items are exceptionally priced for the quality you get. We’d have liked to see more than one pocket on the jacket (and any pockets at all on the pants), but appreciated the drawstrings on the collar and waist. Both are lightweight, breathable, and made from 100-percent polyamide with Climashield insulation. Pants can be removed easily with full-length zippers on each leg, but we were surprised that no drawstrings are on the waist or ankle. Jacket has elasticized wrists. Both items are warrantied for 12 months and worked well to repel cold and wind. Made in Estonia.

Pros:

  • Great value
  • 12-month warranty
  • Lots of size options

Cons:

  • Color options are limited to larger jackets; only one color on pants
  • Pants don’t have belt loops

Varusteleka Särmä TST L5 Thermal Trousers; Särmä TST L5 Thermal Anorak

MSRP
$149 (trousers); $186 (anorak)

URL
www.varusteleka.com

Notes: If you’re looking for camouflage winter clothing options, Varusteleka’s TST line is both a highly affordable and practical option. The “frozen” pattern is intended to mimic winter foliage patterns before snowfall. The fit was exceptional, and both items were comfortable in all the right areas, while keeping us well protected from the elements. Material is 100% PA ripstop, with shin, knee, butt, and waist areas reinforced with 500D Cordura. Abundance of sizes would work for practically anyone. Elasticized ankles on trousers, wrists, and waist on the anorak kept snow from creeping in. Since these are more for tactical use, our main complaint was lack of pockets. The zippered vents on the anorak worked well to access your inner layers, although we wondered why the zippers didn’t run the full length of the pantleg. Also, the buckled crotch strap on the anorak was an interesting way to keep your top from riding up if you’re crawling or prone for long periods of time, but might take some getting used to. Made in Estonia.

Pros:

  • Price is exceptional for the quality
  • Fleece-lined hood large enough to accommodate a helmet
  • Thick enough to repel elements without being bulky

Cons:

  • Only two pockets on trousers; none on pull-over anorak
  • No belt loops

Winter Baselayers

Varusteleka Särmä TST L2 Turtleneck Shirt; Särmä TST L1 Liner Gloves; Särmä TST L1 Balaclava

MSRP
$42 to $56 (top); $19 (balaclava); $24 (gloves)

URL
www.varusteleka.com

Notes: Varusteleka is a military and outdoor company from Finland, so we knew they spoke fluent cold-weather clothing. They sent us an assortment of baselayers, and we were pleased with how the items performed. They were thin enough to be worn in with other baselayers if desired. The 80/20 merino wool/polyester combo kept us sufficiently warm and were very comfortable. They’re machine washable, but air-drying is recommended. The zippered turtleneck shirt is practical even as an outer layer in the right environment. Gloves repelled cold and moisture penetration very well. Balaclava can be worn as a cap, tube scarf, or full facemask. Made in Lithuania.

Pros:

  • Cheaper than many American brands using the same material combinations
  • 12-month warranty
  • Material is very form-fitting

Cons:

  • Crotch opening would be nice
  • Only item with color options is the balaclava

Eddie Bauer Heavyweight FreeDry Merino Hybrid Baselayer Pants

MSRP
$63

URL
www.eddiebauer.com

Notes: Merino wool is definitely the way to go on baselayers. The Heavyweight FreeDry Merino Hybrid Baselayer Pants fit snugly without being constricting or itchy. They made of 50-percent merino wool/50-percent polyester, so these bottoms can be machine washed and dried delicately. Breathability, heat retention, and moisture wicking worked well, and we were pleasantly surprised to find these bottoms longer in the legs than expected. We did, however, wish there was crotch opening, since sometimes nature calls when you’re actually out in nature. Made in China.

Pros:

  • Very light and comfortable
  • Legs stayed snug and didn’t ride up the calf after hours of use

Cons:

  • Crotch opening would be nice
  • A bit pricey

Winter Footwear

Lowa Renegade Evo Ice GTX

MSRP
$295

URL
www.lowaboots.com

Notes: Even when walking through knee-deep snow, we were pleased how well these boots kept it from creeping inside and getting our feet soaking wet. The Gore-Tex and leather provided great insulation from the elements, heat retention, and were comfortable to wear. We’d have wished for a bit more padding in the very front, as we got a bit of toe-slam walking downhill. The aggressive traction was great on snow, especially going uphill, but was a bit dodgy at times on ice. All in all, we felt they were a good investment that could be worn in a variety of muddy, slushy, and snowy environments to keep your feet protected. Made in Slovakia.

Pros:

  • Larger sizes available
  • Three neutral color options

Cons:

  • Padding could be improved in toe area
  • Consider wearing crampons with these if you’re walking on ice

Cold Open – Part 1: Cold-Weather Survival Tips & Techniques

Every year, we hear about cold-weather-related fatalities that could’ve easily been avoided with the right training and supplies. As winter is upon us once again, we felt it prudent to raise awareness of situations that commonly lead to injuries or worse during the cold months, as well as some myths that are continually perpetuated about cold-weather survival. With a résumé that includes instructing Marines at the Mountain Warfare Training Center, we tapped survival instructor Thomas Coyne, whom we profiled in RECOIL OFFGRID Issue 27, for tips to keep you safe this winter. In addition, we asked director of training for Sierra Element and former Marine scout sniper Victor Lopez to provide recommendations on best practices for firearms use in cold weather.

RECOIL OFFGRID: A quinzhee is one of the best shelters you can make using snow. For those unfamiliar with how to build one, what are the steps involved?

Thomas Coyne: All you do is pile snow, preferably the freshest snow, into a dome shape big enough to leave 18-inch walls all around you and dig out a living space for you to lay down or sit up in. You can make them fairly large for a whole group of people or just one person. After you pile the snow, pack it down with your feet or a shovel to compact it enough to solidify, and let it sit for at least 30 minutes. It’s good if it’s in the sun to help it fuse together a bit. Then you can dig out a living space at the base that’s big enough to lay down in that’s in the shape you want. Before you dig out the opening, in order to make sure you don’t go too shallow, break off a bunch of sticks that are at least 18 inches long and jam them into the top all around and all the way to the top. That way you know if you hit the stick not to go any farther. If you’re building one for yourself, as long as it’s big enough for you to lay down in that’s a good rule of thumb for how wide and high you need to make it.

Above: Thomas Coyne teaching a cold-weather survival class in Alaska.

What do you think some of the most common misconceptions are about cold-weather survival?

TC: One thing people never talk about is hydration in the cold. People talk about how you shouldn’t drink cold water, but you need to stay as hydrated as you can in extreme cold — it’s just as important as hydrating in extreme heat. Blood regulates body temperature. When you’re too hot, it takes the heat from your organs; your blood vessels dilate and radiate that heat off the surface of the skin. When you’re too cold, it constricts on the surface of the skin and to the extremities like your ears, nose, and fingers, which is why your hands get cold first. The body restricts blood flow to those areas when you’re cold and focuses it on the internal organs so you don’t get hypothermia. If you’re dehydrated at all, you’re going to get colder faster and have much less blood on the surface of your skin, so you’ll be much more prone to frostbite. Pre-hydrate for a few days before you go on any cold-weather expeditions as if you’re going on a hot-weather expedition.

The quickest way to absorb water is if it’s at room temperature and an isotonic solution, which is 0.9-percent salt. Your body works on what’s called the sodium-potassium-electrolyte pump. We don’t run out of potassium the way we do salt, because we don’t sweat it out like salt. Salt opens the door to the cell to let water in, so if your drink is too salty it pulls water out of the cell. If it’s just salty enough it lets it into the cell. An isotonic solution matches the salinity of our body’s cells naturally so you can hydrate the quickest and safest. When you get an IV of saline, that’s what they’re giving you.

Caffeine dehydrates you, and it’s a vasodilator, so it affects your blood pressure. When you’re really red-lining, like when I was a firefighter and working on the fire line, it’s not a good idea to have caffeine. What we’d do is after we drank 2 liters of water, our third liter would always have an electrolyte replacement in it. That’s so we don’t become hyponatremic. If the salt level in your body gets too low, that’s called hyponatremia and it can kill you. That means your body can’t absorb water anymore. You’ll drink a liter of water, and urinate it right out. If you’re hyponatremic and drink water without salt, you’re hurting yourself. Avoid caffeine and alcohol. There’s that old belief that drinking alcohol makes you warmer, but that’s because it makes the blood vessels on the surface of your skin dilate and is radiating away heat.

What should people know about cold-weather clothing?

TC: A lot of people don’t know how to dress for the cold. There’s a proper three-layer clothing system that all your military, cold-weather mountaineers, arctic expedition, and pipeline guys are wearing. There’s your performance baselayer; that’s your thermal underwear, which should be tight-fitting against the body. These items should also be rapid drying and insulate when wet. It’s not just about warming you, but for active and extreme cold, it needs to serve as a sweat management system.

When you’re more active, you build up sweat; being sweaty in extreme cold can cause you to freeze to death. When you have material that insulates when wet, no matter how sweaty you get, as long as it’s up against your body as an insulation layer, your body heat will keep it warm. It needs to be rapid drying because once you stop sweating and sit down, you want it to dry well even though it’s underneath the other layers. That’s why you should only use certain materials like wool and polypropylene. Those two have the best warmth-to-weight ratio, insulate when wet, and dry rapidly. We call cotton the death fabric. We don’t use it in the cold because it loses all insulation capabilities when wet and dries very slow.

The next layer is your insulation layer; it keeps you warm but isn’t skin tight. It’s not really the clothing that keeps you warm, it’s your body heat and your clothing should trap that. When you have an insulation layer, it should be a little loose to give you a little room for your body heat and trap that around you. If you’re in cold and wet weather, again, you want something that insulates when wet and dries rapidly, like fleece. If you’re in weather where it’s below freezing 24 hours a day where you’re not going to get wet, down is a great material because it’s very light. Down has a tendency to absorb a lot of water, it doesn’t insulate, and will never dry in the field, so that’s why we don’t wear it when it’s both cold and wet.

Your third layer should be a waterproof, breathable layer. You want that to be an outer shell. The colder it is, the more breathable it has to be. If you’re going below zero you need a highly breathable jacket. What people don’t realize about breathability in the cold is that in extreme cold your jacket will begin to condensate if it’s not breathable enough. For instance, if you just wear a rubber rain slicker, it condensates inside. If the material isn’t breathable enough, it’ll get soaking wet inside.

For footwear, avoid cotton socks. In extreme cold weather, your boot should have a removable insulator. If you’re hiking all day and build up a lot of sweat, you want to take that out to give it time to dry. You want a three-layer system for your feet as well. You have the sock, which is your performance baselayer, the boot insulator, and then the boot itself so you can manage the moisture in your boot. Trench foot indications are like when you sit in the bath too long and your skin gets wrinkly. When you keep grinding on that layer of wet skin over and over again, it just comes off. When you’re post-holing through 2- to 3-foot snow without proper footwear, your feet will get soaking wet and frostbite or trench foot is likely to set in.

What tools do you think are over and underrated for cold weather?

TC: One thing that many survival guys will disagree with me about are fire steels. They’re just a bushcraft play tool and a poor option for emergency circumstances. If you’re injured, hypothermic, or have a little frostbite, it’s easier to light a match when you’re having trouble feeling your hands than to spark a fire using a steel. A match you can strike and just toss it into the fuel. With a steel, you have to prepare the fuel a particular way and shave it up into little bits. If you’re using something natural, it won’t work on anything moist at all. You generally have to use both hands and be very precise with your sparks. Any thermal emergency attacks the brain and makes it hard to think. You don’t want to carve down shavings of bark in that condition. You get ataxia, which is a loss of coordination, so they’re not good when you’re hypothermic, cold, and wet.

Matches are easier to use and light more materials. The primary fire-starting material should be a proper storm match. It can burn in the water, in mud, and in crazy winds, so it’s very hard to put out. You should also have an accelerant like solid fuel cubes. There are lots of brands out there for like 50 cents a piece. They’ll burn for over 10 minutes at over 1,000 degrees. Forget the cotton balls and Vaseline. In cold weather, it’s likely going to be wet as well, so all the small stuff that might light easily like pine needles, bark, and grass are all affected by the moisture so they’re going to be hard to light. You need a good flame length and a very hot flame. All the cubes like WetFire, Duraflame, Weber, and Fast Fire will give you at least a 4- to 6-inch flame length. Just throw your match on the cube and warm your hands up to get them working again, then light your second cube to get your fire going. You can get emergency heat from just the cube. The No. 1 reason we’d have to rescue people off trails is because they fell and hurt their leg, so if you’re injured you want it to be as easy as possible.

A catalytic heater and 24-hour hot packs are great for vehicles. Every winter you read articles about people who took a wrong turn down a road or ended up stuck in the snow somehow. They end up freezing to death in their vehicles because they run out of gas, and the car is useless. Catalytic heaters are like little propane heaters. You can use little $5 propane tanks, but it can be used indoors — since it’s catalytic it uses platinum in the device to purify the emissions. Some will run on a tank for eight hours on low, but you can also make a tank last for like three nights if you just run it for a half hour to stay warm as needed. If you need to build a quinzhee, you can pop some hot packs and put them in your clothing or wrap them in your e-blanket to stay warm.

What should people know about using electronics in cold weather, particularly stuff powered by lithium-ion batteries?

TC: Cold weather zaps the batteries a lot quicker, so you have to protect your devices from the cold, which is another thing you can use hot packs for. Also, if I’m bringing a water filter, you’ve got to make sure they don’t freeze overnight, so you can pop a hot pack and put it in the compartment with those materials. For whatever mustn’t freeze, you need to have some kind of insulation. You’re going to have to charge more and bring more batteries since the cold drains it faster.

What are some medical conditions cold weather causes that don’t get enough attention?

TC: Snow-blindness is one. If you get a stuck in a snowy area without the right eye protection, you can go snow-blind in less than one day. In addition to goggles, they make emergency snow glasses. Many of them are rolled up in little containers like the Survival Metrics i-Shield. They’re one-size-fits-all. You can make improvised versions from birch bark or a piece of cardboard. You can cut thin slits in it just big enough to see out of. They have to stick out at least ½ inch off your face and have to cover the sides and bottom to keep light from getting in, so you have to fold it a bit to look a little like Geordi from Star Trek.

What should people know about getting lost in snowy weather in a vehicle?

TC: Stay with the vehicle, because it’s easier to spot than you are. One mistake is when people stay with the vehicle when it’s very cold and succumb to falling asleep. That’ll easily lead to becoming hypothermic and dying. I call it the Freddy Krueger rule of cold-weather survival. If you’re experiencing symptoms of hypothermia, you have to stay awake. Try and do some kind of physical activity in place. Tense your muscles as hard as you can and do little isometric exercises and whatever you can to stay awake and warm.

If you can clear away any branches or foliage so the sun can get to your car easier, do it. The sunlight will create that greenhouse effect in your vehicle and help warm it. You can turn your car into a quinzhee too, but you need to have a ventilation hole and a way to mark the outside so people can see there’s a car under there if it’s continuing to snow. Try to make a signal. A really good tip I learned is to use Kool-Aid packets because they’re very bright colors and you can use them to spell out SOS — and it’s a lot cheaper than dye.

What are some of the biggest considerations to keep in mind when using firearms in cold weather?

Above: Magpul Core Quick Reference Rifle Cards are good reference materials to have on hand when shooting in extreme weather.

Victor Lopez: Clothing can affect the way you present the weapon, jackets and gloves in particular. You should practice with the equipment you’re going to be wearing prior to going out. A lot of people think it’s cool to wear gloves when they go out, but like on a Glock, it has that extra safety on the trigger. A lot of times I see people who never really trained with it and go on training evolutions in mountainous areas where they have gloves on and can’t find that nub on the trigger.

If you’re using gloves, make sure they have good dexterity in the fingers; train with your gloves before you go out so you can have that tactile feel on the trigger and use them to try reloads as well. With jackets, try them on and present the draw — see how it’ll feel when prone and any other positions you anticipate being in. Sometimes with shoulder-fired weapons, materials like certain fleeces will feel different than just wearing a cotton shirt and can actually slip easier.

For changing temperatures, I’ve seen guys go from cold weather training and then put the gun in their sleeping bag, where it collects condensation. Overnight, you can see rust start to form on some weapons because of the body heat trapped in a sleeping bag. You want to keep it close to the ambient temperature. Keep snow out. If it gets in there, it’s going to cause rust. Barrel caps are fine, but putting plastic on will collect condensation when it warms up with the sun, like when you put a plastic tarp out to collect moisture in a survival situation; it’s the same type of principle.

What are some myths you hear getting perpetuated about using firearms in cold weather?

VL: A myth I hear is if you’re above freezing that it’ll completely shift your zero on something like a bolt gun. Another I hear is that the trigger won’t freeze up. I have seen, when it’s truly cold, swelling of the bolts in rifles, and you can feel it get sluggish so it will respond differently than in warm weather. I’ve also heard people say you don’t need that much lubrication on your guns because it’s cold so it’s not evaporating. In altitude it can still be cold and dry, so your lubrication is
still dissipating.

For lubricants, I’ve seen guys use paste type stuff. Avoid grease and paste lubrications. Just go with a CLP or oil-based lubricant. When you return home, always make sure you completely dry and lubricate your weapon before you store it.

The air is less dense in altitude and cold weather. Temperature, air pressure, and humidity affect your impacts; increased muzzle velocity results in higher impacts on your targets. Magpul has some cheat sheets with the computations to keep in mind. Devices like a Kestrel can also provide info for your weather data.

Sources:


New: CRKT Provoke Imperial White Edition

From the first day we saw it, we always thought the CRKT Provoke karambit looked futuristic, perhaps even a bit otherworldly. However, we didn't suspect that this Oregon-based knifemaker would release a new special edition to further accentuate that theme. Specifically, it's tied in to a sci-fi franchise that everyone will recognize — one that's going to rise back into the public eye later this month. For obvious legal reasons, CRKT delicately avoids mentioning the franchise by name, but says the new Imperial White Provoke is “perfectly suited for a galaxy far, far away.” We suspect the Mouse Emperor and his lawyer legions might not look kindly upon it if they were any more specific.

This knife features an “Imperial White” scheme with black accents. The finish is achieved with a Cerakote H series coating, appropriately known as H-297 Stormtrooper White. CRKT calls it “the brightest white in the ceramic coatings industry” and says it exhibits the hardness, abrasion-resistance, and lubricity you'd expect from classic Cerakote.

Mechanically, the Imperial White Provoke remains unchanged from the standard version. It's made from D2 steel with 6061-T6 aluminum crossbars, and its Kinematic opening mechanism allows the 2.4-inch curved blade to slide forward in a snap. The handle ring features an integrated, spring-loaded pocket clip that sits flush when it's not in use.

MSRP for the Imperial White Provoke is $200. For more information, go to CRKT.com. For a video demonstration of how the mechanism works, check out self-defense instructor Patrick Vuong's review here.


Review: 7 Multipurpose Bushcraft Knives

The terms bushcraft and survival have developed two distinct connotations as a result of their portrayals in various forms of media. If you think of a survivalist, you’ll probably envision someone who takes a modern approach to preparedness, often using contemporary weapons and tactical gear in an urban environment. On the other hand, bushcrafter usually evokes images of a seasoned outdoorsman clad in wool and leather, honing primitive skills at a remote campsite in the backcountry. Bushcraft is clearly linked with an emphasis on perfecting traditional techniques as opposed to relying on store-bought gear — as legendary Canadian outdoorsman Mors Kochanski put it, “the more you know, the less you carry.” (See The Last Page in Issue 31 for our review of Kochanski’s eponymous book, Bushcraft.)

If you tend to fall into the survivalist camp and can’t imagine willingly leaving behind any of your modern gear, it’s easy to write off the concept of bushcraft as one that’s outdated or irrelevant. However, we’d argue that bushcraft and survivalism go hand in hand. By learning primitive skills such as friction fire-starting and improvised shelter construction, you’ll become less dependent on the lighter and tent in your pack. As your abilities improve, you’ll be able to confidently head into almost any situation with only a handful of critical tools — even if you choose to keep carrying all your modern gear as an added advantage.

Even for the most ascetic bushcraft practitioners, there’s one tool that’s considered irreplaceable: a knife. It’ll be used to whittle trap triggers, shave feather sticks, baton firewood, gut fish, carve notches for bow drills, and countless other tasks. Given the wide variety of roles they must fulfill, bushcraft knives must be exceptionally versatile, durable, and comfortable. For this reason, they're equally effective for anything from camping trips to disaster scenarios.

We selected seven bushcraft knives, and studied each to gauge its adaptivity and effectiveness. Read on for our thoughts on each of these multipurpose tools.

Elk Ridge ER-555

Overall Length
10.5 inches

Blade Length
5.3 inches

Weight
8.5 ounces

MSRP
$17

URL
www.amazon.com

Notes
With dozens of five-star reviews and a sub-$20 price on Amazon, how could we lose? As it turns out, we got what we paid for. The plasticky Pakkawood scales were loosely installed, and the nylon sheath’s retention strap was barely held together. We found no mention of steel type, aside from “stainless steel” on the blade. Our best guess is that it’s 440A, a soft, low-carbon material. Thankfully, a sharpening stone is included. The knife’s shape and dimensions are great — a classic drop point with full-tang construction and a comfortable handle. Two screws can be removed to reveal a small storage cavity with needles, thread, and matches in the handle. A ferro rod and striker are also included.

Pros:

  • While the design is undeniably generic, it’s also fairly versatile.
  • Grind is surprisingly even and clean for a blade at this price point.

Cons:

  • Questionable steel quality — when a manufacturer won’t mention the specific steel they used, that’s a cause for concern.
  • Aggressive hollow grind also reduces strength, as does the hollowed-out handle

Emerson HUCK

Overall Length
8.6 inches

Blade Length
4.3 inches

Weight
4.6 ounces

MSRP
$318

URL
www.emersonknives.com

Notes
From a company that built its reputation on tactical folding knives, a bushcraft fixed blade might seem like a departure. But the HUCK — short for Hard Use Camp Knife — is a simple, well-made tool that’s clearly an Emerson. Its S35VN blade is hardened to a durable 57-59 HRC and features a wide primary bevel with the company’s signature single-edge grind — a feature some love and others hate. The full-tang handle is exceptionally comfortable, with a large palm swell and thick Richlite scales. Black G10 scales are also available and reduce price by $60. The included, veteran-made RK LeatherWorks sheath looks classy and fits like a glove.

Pros:

  • Both the knife and its leather sheath are made in the USA and display outstanding quality.
  • S35VN is one of our favorite varieties of stainless for multipurpose knives. It stays sharp under heavy use and isn’t hard to maintain.

Cons:

  • Asymmetrical single-edge grind is a strange choice here — great for shaving feather sticks, but difficult to control during precise right-angle or reverse cuts.
  • Rather pricey considering its features. Richlite scales look nice, but G10 offers better value.

Mora Companion Spark

Overall Length
8.8 inches

Blade Length
4.1 inches

Weight
3.2 ounces

MSRP
$35

URL
www.moraknivusa.com

Notes
Mora is a name that has become synonymous with this category, thanks to testimony from bushcraft godfather Mors Kochanski and other instructors. The Companion is one of this Swedish knifemaker’s most popular models, with a slim 12C27 stainless drop-point blade, classic Scandi grind, and 90-degree spine that’s perfect for striking a ferrocerium fire-starter. This new Spark version makes the latter feature more useful by integrating a ferro rod, which locks into a slot in the rubberized handle. The polymer sheath is nothing to write home about, but has good retention and a thumb ramp for added leverage. Put simply, at this price point, it’s tough to beat a Mora.

Pros:

  • Impressive value for the money
  • The addition of a ferro rod is a nice upgrade to this popular Mora design.

Cons:

  • The website and packaging advertise an included reflective lanyard, but it was missing from our early production sample.
  • Mora says the holes in the handle were meant to make it lighter; they mostly serve to show off the ferro rod and collect dirt. We’d prefer if they were filled for added strength.

Ontario Knife Company Robeson Heirloom Drop Point

Overall Length
9.1 inches

Blade Length
4.2 inches

Weight
4.8 ounces

MSRP
$230

URL
www.ontarioknife.com

Notes
As the name implies, OKC intended the Heirloom to be a trustworthy tool that can be passed down through generations. The tough D2 steel blade is hardened to 57-59 HRC, and flat-ground with a secondary edge bevel. Most of the spine is ground to a false edge that improves piercing effectiveness, but we were glad to also find a 90-degree section that can be used on a ferro rod. The handle is clad in laminated hardwood scales and features a comfortable contour and large forefinger notch. Drawing the knife from its soft leather sheath is easy thanks to the extended tab on its retention snap.

Pros:

  • Made in the USA with nice materials and workmanship (aside from the grind issue). We can see this knife living up to its Heirloom name.
  • Also available as a Trailing Point model with an upswept tip that’s better-suited to skinning

Cons:

  • Our sample had a noticeably lopsided edge grind — it’s easy enough to fix, but disappointing for a knife that costs this much.
  • We would’ve preferred solid hardwood over laminate.

Ruger Knives Powder-Keg Drop Point

Overall Length
9.5 inches

Blade Length
4.6 inches

Weight
7.7 ounces

MSRP
$100

URL
www.crkt.com

Notes
This full-tang fixed blade is marketed under the Ruger Knives brand and features the iconic logo on its handle, but it was primarily a collaboration between two big names in the knife industry: CRKT and Ryan Johnson of RMJ Tactical. Johnson devised the knife’s design, and CRKT manufactured it. Clip-point and drop-point variants are available; we chose the latter for its simplicity and practicality. The knife is constructed from 8Cr13MoV stainless steel with a dark stonewashed finish and two-tone thermoplastic resin (TPR) handle scales. It comes with a basic leather belt sheath — this accessory serves its purpose to protect the edge, but feels cheaply made.

Pros:

  • Simple design emphasizes functionality over style
  • The butt of the handle makes a nice hammer or, with a little filing, a ferro rod striker.

Cons:

  • 8Cr13MoV is a Chinese-made stainless with so-so edge retention. It’s fine for light use, but not ideal for harsher tasks like batoning.
  • Good leatherwork is costly, and this sheath was clearly made on a budget. We’d take a plain, durable Kydex sheath instead any day.

Spyderco Proficient Carbon Fiber

Overall Length
8.8 inches

Blade Length
4 inches

Weight
6.3 ounces

MSRP
$490

URL
www.spyderco.com

Notes
This knife was developed in collaboration with Bushcraft UK instructor Chris Claycomb and bears a clear resemblance to the original Spyderco Bushcraft (now discontinued). While its predecessor featured a single-bevel Scandi grind, the Proficient has a full-flat grind with secondary edge bevel. Top-shelf materials were used, including carbon fiber and CPM S90V — a “super-steel” with high levels of vanadium for immense wear resistance. The contours of the handle are supremely comfortable, though it wouldn’t be our first choice for wet and slippery conditions. An elegant black leather sheath is included; passing some paracord through its grommets can easily set it up for scout carry or attachment to a pack.

Pros:

  • A functional work of art with no expense spared on materials or craftsmanship
  • Photos cannot convey how comfortable this handle is. It’s among the best we’ve ever used.

Cons:

  • The quality is undeniable, but $490 is really tough to justify for any production fixed blade — especially one from Taiwan. Street prices are closer to $315, but even that’s a chunk of change.
  • S90V’s extreme toughness makes it difficult to sharpen in the field

Wander Tactical Lynx

Overall Length
9.4 inches

Blade Length
4.3 inches

Weight
11.4 ounces

MSRP
$267

URL
www.wandertactical.com

Notes
The slogan “they don’t shine, they work” conveys the philosophy of Italian knifemaker Wander Tactical. This knife was meant to take a beating, and it shows. The D2 tool steel blade is 1/4-inch thick, cryogenically hardened to 59-61 HRC, and fitted with deeply textured Micarta handle scales. While no knife should be used as a prybar, this one certainly could be. The broad skinner-style blade curves steeply at the tip and includes aggressive thumb jimping, as well as a 90-degree spine. There’s also a large choil that accommodates a choked-up grip for extra control. The Lynx comes standard with a leather sheath and belt loop, ferro rod holder, and straps for scout carry.

Pros:

  • Built like a tank — you’d have to be trying to split a boulder to substantially damage this blade.
  • Many options are available, including two-tone blade finishes, black or brown handle scales, and leather or Kydex sheaths in several colors.

Cons:

  • Although the extreme thickness inspires confidence in durability, it also adds a lot of weight and makes the blade feel less precise.
  • Tip geometry doesn’t make this a good choice for piercing tasks.

Review: SureFire E2D LED Defender Ultra

What's the most-used tool in your every-day carry gear loadout? Ruling out bare essentials such as keys, cell phone, and wallet, your answer is probably one of two tools. The first is a pocket knife. It's beneficial to have a sharp blade at the ready at all times, despite fearmongering campaigns that claim the opposite. The second is a flashlight. Much like a knife, the more you carry this tool, the more you'll find yourself appreciating its importance. Rather than peering into the darkness or hoping the tiny LED on your cell phone will provide sufficient illumination, a dedicated EDC flashlight will allow you to perform countless low-light tasks more safely and easily.

Over the years, we've gone through quite a few different flashlights. We've reviewed and compared dozens of them in our HighLights and Pocket Preps columns, and have included one as a fundamental component of our EDC for many years. As a result of this, we've become what some might call picky, rarely settling down on a single light for long. We're always on the lookout for new options to add to the rotation — our latest acquisition is a revised variant of a classic design from SureFire.

Above: The SureFire E2DLU-A (top) next to a few of the other lights we've frequently carried — SureFire EDCL1-T (review), Fenix UC35 (review), and an old Streamlight ProTac 2L.

SureFire E2D LED Defender Ultra

The SureFire Defender line of flashlights has been around for more than a decade, and the inclusion of the term “LED” in its name is an indicator of this fact. This light's predecessor, the E2D Executive Defender used a high-pressure xenon lamp that produced 60 lumens. No, we didn't forget a zero. Sixty. Thankfully, that technology has now been surpassed by more powerful, efficient, and reliable light-emitting diodes.

Executive Defender (top) and LED Defender (bottom)

After that, output increased to 200 lumens with the introduction of the E2D LED Defender, and then increased again to 600 lumens with the E2D LED Defender Ultra. Finally, there's the latest iteration, which is (somewhat confusingly) still referred to as the E2D LED Defender Ultra. This model — which can be identified by the smooth ring around its head, as opposed to the last model's anti-roll ring — now offers a maximum output of 1,000 lumens. Lighting performance has come a long way since the 60-lumen Executive Defender, to say the least.

The 600-lumen LED Defender Ultra (top) featured an anti-roll ring. The 1,000-lumen version (bottom) does not.

The 1,000-lumen Defender Ultra is available in two variants: E2DLU-A and E2DLU-T. The former is what we chose, and offers dual outputs of 5 lumens or 1,000 lumens. The light must be cycled on and off rapidly to switch between the two modes. The latter Tactical model offers a single output of 1,000 lumens.

This light is constructed from hard-anodized aluminum with a knurled texture, crenelated striking bezel, scalloped tail cap, and dual-direction stainless pocket clip. It uses two CR123A batteries, and a TIR lens design that focuses light into a versatile blend of long-distance throw and peripheral visibility. Advertised runtime is 2.75 hours on high, or 63 hours on low.

Our Impressions

After carrying the E2D LED Defender Ultra daily and using it extensively over the last few months, we found a lot of things we liked, and a couple we didn't.

Right off the bat, the light feels great in hand. If you need this light to live up to its defender name and use it as an impact weapon, the size is perfect for that task. The knurled texture and flared ends lock into your fist, ensuring the light won't slip as you hammer it into an attacker. And that crenelated bezel is sharp enough to do damage, but not ringed with mall-ninja-grade razor-sharp spikes like some lights we've seen. In the interest of being able to carry our flashlight everywhere we go, including through airports, we prefer this more-subdued appearance.

The stainless pocket clip allows the light to be carried tip-up or tip-down, but the former will cause the bezel to stick up prominently above the pocket hem. We noticed that this particular clip felt a bit looser than other SureFire clips we've used, but not to the degree that we worried about the light slipping out of a pocket.

We have mixed feelings about the scalloped tail cap. On one hand, it's helpful for the defensive function of the light, and prevents accidental button presses. On the other hand, it makes the recessed button a little harder to click, and prevents the addition of a Thyrm Switchback ring (if that's something you're into).

Lighting performance is outstanding. The 1,000-lumen, 10,600-candela beam cuts through darkness in open spaces, and provides a 200-meter reach. We were able to clearly illuminate trees on the other side of a pitch-black field, and light up large rooms inside a house with its sheer power. The TIR lens and slightly warm color temperature contribute to this visual performance.

However, this is a dual-output light, and that's something we need to address. The 1,000-lumen high setting is great for open outdoor spaces, or defensive situations where you may need to disorient an intruder. For close-up tasks, it's simply too much. To address this and make the light more useful for EDC, SureFire offers the E2DLU-A model with a 5-lumen low setting. That's perfect for map reading, lighting up the inside of a backpack, or inspecting a car's engine bay. But beyond 20 or 30 feet, it starts to feel dim.

This led to our biggest gripe with the E2D LED Defender Ultra — you get two extremes to choose from. We frequently found ourselves in situations where 1,000 lumens was too much, but 5 lumens was not enough. Like Goldilocks, we were searching for the middle ground that felt just right.

That's not to say this light needs three brightness settings, since that would complicate the controls, and there are plenty of competitors' lights that are guilty of tacking on too many unnecessary modes. We just wish that the low mode was a bit brighter. Somewhere around 25 lumens would be enough to light up a garage or backyard, without feeling too bright for closer tasks. It'd also extend battery life, since we'd spend less time defaulting to the 1,000-lumen mode.

As it stands, it feels like SureFire kept increasing the E2D's maximum output across generations, but left the 5-lumen low mode untouched. It feels that way because that's exactly what happened. This series went from 5/200 to 5/600 to 5/1,000-lumen settings over the last three major revisions.

The SureFire EDCL series offers similar features, but only comes with a non-click “gas pedal” tail cap.

For comparison, the SureFire EDCL1-T we previously reviewed (pictured above) offers a 600-lumen high mode and 5-lumen low mode, and that spacing felt a bit more practical. We used that light at high output most of the time anyway, since the non-click tail cap lends itself more to short bursts of bright light. Compared to 5/600, the 5/1,000 gap feels huge. However, we definitely prefer click tail caps, so that's a subjective point in the Defender Ultra's favor.

MSRP is $199 for either the single- or dual-output Defender Ultra, although we found it through third-party retailers for about $170. As always, we appreciate that SureFire lights are designed and manufactured in the USA, and offer a lifetime no-hassle guarantee. SureFire reliability is rock-solid, and that's a critical factor for any EDC flashlight.

Closing Thoughts

Overall, the E2D LED Defender Ultra is, as expected from SureFire, a very solid flashlight. Its light output and quality are superb, and well-suited to the defensive applications its name indicates. It also fits the hand well, and makes an effective impact weapon without appearing overtly aggressive. The dual-output modes aren't ideal for every situation, and we'd prefer a brighter low setting, but they serve most purposes reasonably well. This light isn't the end-all be-all solution for every task, but it'll certainly remain in our everyday-carry rotation for the foreseeable future.

Pros:

  • Output is immense, but more importantly, distributed into a clear and versatile beam pattern
  • Grippy body and crenelated bezel make it a formidable impact weapon
  • SureFire's excellent build quality and warranty yield confidence that this light can take a beating

Cons:

  • Many applications require more than 5 lumens and less than 1,000. We wish the low-output mode was a little brighter to balance this out.
  • The pocket clip on our light isn't as firm as that of our EDCL1-T, and allows the light to move around in a pocket more than we'd like.
  • We're not sure why the anti-roll ring was removed from the head for this generation, and we see no compelling reason for its absence.

For more information on this and other SureFire flashlights, go to SureFire.com.


Video: Russian Jail Lifehacks

Survivalists often speak about austere environments where problems must be solved creatively with minimal resources. If you need a tool, you make the most of the gear you have, and think outside the box to improvise anything you don't have access to. In this regard, few environments are more challenging than a prison. Those of us who aren't behind bars can learn quite a bit from convicts' problem-solving strategies, even though they may not always be advisable.

The video shows this blade used to split matches, but its primary purpose is more obvious.

Although we've often poked fun at lifehack videos for their absurd, impractical, or outright dangerous techniques, we occasionally come across one that includes some good food for thought. The following video from SlivkiShow demonstrates a few techniques for making weapons and tools that are allegedly used in Russian jails.

As you might expect, some of these techniques are clearly dangerous, such as frying potatoes and meat in a mason jar using an exposed live wire — don't try that at home. Others probably wont last long, such as the improvised plastic screwdriver. However, as we said before, sometimes you've got to do the best you can with the tools you've got. We can certainly appreciate the level of ingenuity here, even though we're not forced to drink pruno or carry a melted toothbrush for self-defense.


News: Legendary Outdoorsman Mors Kochanski has Passed Away

If you've been visiting this site and reading our magazine, the name Mors Kochanski should need no introduction. This Canadian survival skills instructor has had a tremendous and lasting impact on so many of us in the survival community. Les Stroud called him “a legend;” Cody Lundin told us in an interview that Kochanski was “one of [his] greatest instructors.” The term bushcraft entered our common lexicon after being popularized in large part by Kochanski's eponymous book, Bushcraft: Outdoor Skills and Wilderness Survival.

We are therefore deeply saddened to hear of his passing earlier today, according to a Facebook post from his close friends and fellow educators at Karamat Wilderness Ways:

Mors Kochanski was born in Canada to Polish immigrant parents in 1940, and grew up on a remote farm in Saskatchewan with his five siblings. They spent their days working on the homestead and exploring the surrounding forest. This upbringing imbued Mors with a fervent appreciation for the wilderness, as well as a respect for the potential dangers it held. In 1968, he started his career as an outdoor educator, and went on to become an associate professor at the University of Alberta. He wrote several books, including the aforementioned Bushcraft, and contributed his knowledge to many other survival publications and courses.

Photo via MorsKochanski.com

Kochanski celebrated his 79th birthday in 2019. As a testament to his dedication, he was still making appearances at outdoor education events and sharing his knowledge until very recently. According to a post from his official Facebook page, he had been suffering from mesothelioma. He reportedly passed away early this morning, at home surrounded by his family.

“03 August 2019, Mors enjoying the summer sun in front of his home at Bear Lake, Alberta, Canada.”...

Rest in peace, Mors — we'll miss you.


Fit to Be Tied: How to Use Rope to Move Gear Safely

Whether you find yourself in the backcountry on a hiking trip, working on a home project, or standing in the wake of a natural disaster, you may encounter the need to move something heavier than you can safely move by yourself. In those situations, you can apply a few pieces of lightweight and relatively inexpensive equipment to take off some of the load.

Recalling a little grade school science, there are six types of simple machines: lever, wedge, screw, inclined plane, wheel and axle, and pulley. From this list, you can employ a pulley in the aforementioned scenarios to lighten your workload by half or more by utilizing mechanical advantage. Simply put, rope-based mechanical advantage is using ropes and pulleys to leverage force.

A haul system is the utilization of rope and a few basic components to create mechanical advantage in order to lift or move someone or something. You don’t have to be a rope expert to be able to construct a haul system. You can use a high-tech physics concept and make it low-tech, easy, and useful.

Using ropes to make difficult work easier has a variety of uses from the mundane to crucial. Rope-based mechanical advantage can be seen in use by landscapers and furniture movers. It can be used to hoist camping gear vertically to a higher elevation. Rescue teams use haul systems all the time to move patients in both the horizontal and vertical realms. Ropes and pulleys are also often seen in post-disaster conditions when large pieces of structure need to be moved off of people, or trees need to be moved out of the road. Mechanical advantage is used in a number of ways to accomplish what we can’t on our own.

Important Basics

Before diving into the construction of a haul system, there are some basic concepts and terminology that should be discussed. For those familiar with using rope and climbing gear, this may be familiar territory, but for those who aren’t, let’s discuss a few topics:

Kilonewtons: Because very few things can be universally easy, when you’re talking rope, rope gear, and rope-related mechanical advantage, all equipment is rated in kilonewtons (kN) rather than pounds. Just like pounds, a kilonewton is a measure of force. The purpose for using kilonewtons rather than pounds seems to be more historical and geographical than anything else. The history of the construction and use of rope dates back centuries, but modern rope craft and widespread knowledge and acceptance of mechanical advantage concepts trace back to European nautical origins.

The UK uses pounds to denote currency, so it wouldn’t make sense to measure equipment in pounds, just as Americans wouldn’t use dollars to refer to anything but money. So, rating by kilonewtons became the norm. Americans hold on tightly to our anti-metric roots and largely ignore the otherwise globally accepted International System of Units. Fortunately, the conversion isn’t difficult: 1 kilonewton equals 225 pounds (224.8 if you want to be exact). Although many companies are starting to list both pound and kilonewton ratings for their gear, you should expect to see kN a lot.

A Moment of Physics

Since the vast majority of us aren’t physics majors, I tend to keep things simplified. When you tie a rope to something and pull, you’re exerting 1 pound of force to move 1 pound of mass. In fact, it’s even more offset than that because of friction, so you’re actually having to pull harder than 1:1. The heavier the person or object, the more force will need to be applied. Once you factor in uneven terrain or the associated gravity that factor in to steep inclines or declines, it becomes virtually impossible and/or dangerous. By simply adding a few carabiners, Prusik loops, and pulleys, we can significantly decrease our workload, which might mean the difference between life and death in extreme circumstances.

Above: A 3:1 haul system can decrease your workload significantly when resources are limited.

In this article, we’ll discuss tipping the advantage in our favor by learning how to create a 2:1 and a 3:1 mechanical advantage. In those situations, you’re either exerting 1 pound of force to every 2 pounds of mass or, even better, 1 pound of force for every 3 pounds of mass respectively.

Equipment Needed

Any outdoor or disaster preparation gear should include a few basic pieces of equipment that can be used to create mechanical advantage. Most people carry some type of rope, which is always a good idea. The addition of two pulleys, a few Prusik cords, and a few carabiners, and you have the ability to decrease your workload by up to a third.

Above: Simply adding two carabiners, two pulleys, and two Prusik loops to your supplies offers you a variety of options to raise and lower people and equipment.

Rope: The rope you choose will depend solely on your personal preference and comfort level. While 11mm or 12mm (roughly ½-inch diameter) rope is pretty universally utilized in life safety applications, it can be heavy and take up a lot of space in your pack. I always recommend having 100 or 200 feet of 11mm or 12mm rope at home or accessible, but it’s not practical to carry that unless you’re exclusively carrying rope and rope gear for climbing or a haul system.

It may take a few visits to your local outdoor gear store and conversations with experienced climbers, but identify a section of rope that’ll meet your specific needs. Keep quantity in mind as well. A lot of rope is typically needed for building a haul system. You should have more than you think you’ll need. Even tying a single knot can occupy several feet of rope and few things are more frustrating than needing 1 or 2 more feet of rope and coming up short.

When it comes to rope, your life may literally be hanging from it, so don’t buy the cheap rope at the hardware store. Rope is constructed in a variety of ways and, although quality rope is a little bit more expensive, this is one situation where spending the money is 100 percent the right thing to do. Do your homework!

Pulley(s): Having a few pulleys with you is the first step (and a required one) to creating mechanical advantage. Carrying one pulley is the minimum, but at least two pulleys is recommended. First of all, having a backup is a good plan. Especially if you subscribe to the “two is one and one is none” school of thought. Secondly, the more pulleys you have, the greater the mechanical advantage you can create.

Above: Prusik minding pulleys can be a small, lightweight, and versatile addition to anyone’s supplies.

Pulleys can be purchased just about anywhere that sells tools or outdoor equipment. They come in a variety of strengths, sizes, and colors. Read the fine print on the pulleys and find the kN rating. The pulleys I selected for this article are 20 kN pulleys. Remember the conversion: 1kN = 225 pounds, so 20 x 225 = 4,500 pounds. That’s over 2 tons! One would think you could significantly downgrade and get cheaper equipment with less weight rating. The ratings on rope equipment are for static loads, but an important factor in rope dynamics lies in shock loading the rope (a sudden, weighted jerk) and swinging the rope. The weighted force changes significantly, so the stronger the equipment the better. Most would agree, though, that 20 kN is a pretty good starting point for basic mechanical advantage.

Above: A Prusik minding pulley is constructed with edged side plates whereas a traditional pulley has rounded side plates. The side plates don’t affect the strength, but the angled edges prevent Prusiks from being drawn into the pulley.

One recommendation that should be made, when utilizing pulleys to create haul systems, is to use “Prusik minding” pulleys. These will have cornered side plates rather than rounded (see picture below), which allows a Prusik to be drawn against a pulley without being pulled into the pulley.

Prusik(s): A “Prusik cord” or a “Prusik loop” is a small piece of looped rope, tied to itself by a double fisherman knot, used as a friction hitch. They’re often purchased premade with a shrink-wrapped end in varying lengths. Your Prusik options lie in diameter, length, and color. The vast majority of Prusik cordage you’ll find falls in the 3mm to 8mm range. As a general rule, you’ll want to use a diameter that’s in the range of 60 to 80 percent the diameter of your standing rope. If you use Prusik cordage that’s too thin, it’ll tighten easily on the rope and become a nuisance. If your cordage is too thick, it may not generate enough friction to tighten when you need it to.

The other major factor, assuming color doesn’t matter to you, is the length of your Prusiks. For building a mechanical advantage haul system, length isn’t a significant factor. Generally, the more compact, the better. But some rope enthusiasts prefer longer Prusiks for the options they provide in other areas of rope craft. In this demonstration, 12-inch 6mm Prusiks are used.

As with your standing rope, quality counts. Even high-quality Prusiks are inexpensive, so make sure you’re buying quality, highly rated Prusiks from a reputable source. Here’s how it works.

The use of Prusiks not only allow you to build a haul system to move heavy objects, but they also afford you the ability to ascend or descend a rope! In this particular instance, longer Prusiks (as shown) are needed. By simply wrapping the Prusiks around your main line, you can slide them up or down and literally climb a rope. In order to descend a rope using only Prusiks:

  1. Equipment: two Prusiks and one rope.
  2. Hold the Prusik perpendicular to the main rope.
  3. Wrap the Prusik around the main rope and then tuck one end through the other.
  4. Wrap two more times and pull tightly.
  5. Attach the second Prusik to the main rope the same way.
  6. Step into the Prusiks.
  7. Lower the bottom Prusik.
  8. Put your weight on the lower foot and then lower the top Prusik.
  9. Put your weight on the top Prusik.
  10. Repeat 7 – 9.

Carabiner(s): Carabiners can be found anywhere from high-end outfitter stores to plastic bins at the cash register at Walmart. A simple internet search can be overwhelming. Carabiners are the utility player of the outdoors/survivalist world. They’re used for a myriad of applications and are often found in bulk with preppers, hikers, bicyclers, and coffee shop backpacks.

Which carabiners you buy depends on your application and makes a huge difference in the result of your endeavor. Don’t assume all are alike and have the same weight rating. Some will say clearly on the side “not for climbing.” If you’re looking to be able to clip your car keys to your belt loop, an inexpensive generic carabiner will work just fine. If you’re a rock climber and need the carabiner to be lightweight enough to carry many of them without weighing you down, but strong enough to support your body weight, you step up in price and quality. For applications that include suspending heavy objects or people — such as life rescue scenarios — robust steel carabiners are used. For this application, high-strength aluminum carabiners seem to be the sweet spot, having a relatively high strength rating while remaining lightweight.

And finally, a locking system is important. Carabiners now have a variety of methods to secure the gate that prevents it from coming open and leading to possibly catastrophic results. You’ll find twist locks, screw locks, wire locks, and ball locks, among others. They all serve their purpose, and it really comes down to personal preference. Before buying, put your hands on them and see what works best for you (a breakdown of locking types can be found here: www.petzl.com/LU/en/Sport/Carabiner-locking-systems).

Bombproof Anchor

A “bombproof” anchor is the basis for a haul system and should be substantially solid. A bolted stair rail is a poor location to anchor your system. A concrete structural pillar, large, mature tree, or a vehicle can be considered a “bombproof” anchor.

Cost Breakdown

Given the ability to create simple mechanical advantage, two assumptions were made: that you already have a workable length of quality rope, and that you also have webbing or a second rope that’ll allow you to attach your system to an anchor. With those on hand, you simply need to bolster your gear a bit to include the ability to create 2:1 and 3:1 mechanical advantage. The minimal gear you’ll need to add is:

  • Two pulleys
  • Two Prusiks
  • Two carabiners

For this article, I purchased a two-pack of 20kN pulleys ($13), a three-pack of 12-inch 6mm Prusiks ($16), and a two-pack of 25kN carabiners ($17). All were purchased on Amazon Prime and each are highly rated with adequate strength ratings. The grand total for all equipment, with tax was about $61. There are countless options when it comes to buying this equipment, and it would be easy to spend considerably more money, but this is an example of what you can expect as a starting point for the purchase of safe, quality equipment to create rope-based mechanical advantage.

Useful Scenarios

1:1, 2:1, and 3:1 Mechanical Advantage

When discussing mechanical advantage, first we must identify what is not mechanical advantage. As previously mentioned, tying a rope to an object and pulling offers no mechanical advantage. Running a rope through an anchored pulley and pulling on the other side, despite what some may think, offers no mechanical advantage. That scenario is literally the same as the first with the added feature of the pulley, known as a “change of direction.” Mechanical advantage begins with 2:1 and 3:1 systems. Their beauty lies in both simplicity and effectiveness.

In order to achieve mechanical advantage, you’ll need to construct a haul system with a moving pulley. That begins with a 2:1 mechanical advantage. In a 2:1 haul system, a person is required to exert roughly half as much force as the weight of the object.

  • The rope is terminated with knot at a “bombproof” anchor (see sidebar).
  • Attach a pulley to the load.
  • Run rope through the pulley.
  • Haul on the other side.
  • Note: An additional pulley can be added as a change of direction. It offers no mechanical advantage, but in certain places improves your haul field.

 

A 3:1 mechanical advantage can be easily built with only a few more parts and can decrease your workload significantly. A 3:1 is commonly referred to as a “Z rig” because of its general shape when complete. To build a 3:1 haul system:

  • The rope is terminated at the load.
  • A pulley is attached to a “bombproof” anchor.
  • Run the rope from the load through the pulley.
  • Add a second pulley.
  • Attach a Prusik (minimum of two wraps) to the rope.
  • Attach the second pulley and the Prusik with a carabiner.

To take it one step further, if you’re utilizing a Z rig to raise a load vertically, your haul system will need to pass the “whistle test.” This means that if at any point during a haul, someone blows a whistle, you should be able to let go of the rope without a catastrophic failure. By adding a Prusik to a 3:1 as a “progress capture device” you prevent dropping the load if, mid-raise, a swarm of bees descends upon you and you let go of the rope and run away screaming. The Prusik is added to the load side of the Prusik minding pulley, which will allow you to freely pull at whatever speed you choose but allows you the opportunity to rest or let go of the rope. Progress is captured as the weight of the load goes straight up the rope, to the Prusik, and to your bombproof anchor.

Summary

Creating mechanical advantage is one of those topics that can seem complicated, but once you get your hands on the pieces and build 2:1 and 3:1’s a few times, it becomes quite easy and offers significant benefits when the need arises. There are many more options when it comes to haul systems, but these provide a strong foundation for your foray into rope craft. Obtaining the right equipment can be inexpensive and is a great way to shore up your supplies to ensure you’re prepared to help yourself or someone else in need. Once you have the right gear, select a solid anchor, and build the system correctly, you have just decreased your workload and increased your effective ability by using physics to your advantage.


What If an EMP Rendered Your City Technologically Helpless?

Illustrations by Cassandra Dale

Good Lord, no! I thought to myself. It must be something else, anything other than this. My head reeled with the information overloading my senses. My smartphone screen was black. The intersection stoplights were out. The lights in the street side businesses weren’t working. Cars were rolling to a stop or crashing into each other. Then I heard the plane. I looked up just in time to catch a glimpse of the underbelly of a small commuter jet as it roared overhead, hurtling toward the ground.

It disappeared behind the skyline of buildings and the distant “boom” of a great explosion followed. The stalled-out cars, my dead phone, no lights, and a crashing plane — this was no power outage, or even a cyberattack on the power grid. There was only one thing that could cause so much damage like this and affect so many different systems. In my mind, there were just three letters: EMP.

In this edition of What If? we pose the question: What if an electromagnetic pulse (EMP) attack occurs while you’re out of state and traveling through a city with a high crime rate? For three separate versions of this alarming scenario, RECOIL OFFGRID asked three subject-matter experts to craft a realistic tale explaining how they’d endure.

For this installment, we have Kevin Reeve, a fellow survival school owner who specializes in tracking and urban survival. Next, there’s Richard Duarte, a practicing attorney, published author, and disaster prep consultant. And for a third horseman in this apocalyptic setting, RECOIL OFFGRID asked me to write a story too. I’ve been a professional survival instructor for more than 20 years, and written multiple New York Times-bestselling survival manuals. And this type of What If? scenario is one that I truly dread.

Note: If you think an EMP or some other catastrophic power outage is impossible or extremely improbable in the United States, see our previous post on the December 2018 National Infrastructure Advisory Council (NIAC) report. This report by industry experts makes it crystal clear that such an event “could paralyze entire regions, with grave implications for the nation’s economic and social well-being.”

The Scenario

Situation type
EMP attack

Your Crew
Just you

Location
Birmingham, Alabama

Season
Spring

Weather
Cloudy (possible rain); high 70 degrees F (low 50 degrees F)

The Setup: You’ve been hired by the Birmingham Fire and Rescue Service to teach a two-day survival seminar. Due to various other classes you’ll be teaching in the southeast region of the country that week, you’ve elected to drive your own car there.

The Complication: After another successful seminar, you decide to spend the rest of the late afternoon and evening seeing the sights, since you’ve never been to Birmingham before. First up, the 33,000-square-foot Alabama Sports Hall of Fame. You approach the intersection just a block away from the facility when you notice all the street lights shut off. Hmm, a blackout? you think as you slow down. Suddenly, a car barrels into the uncontrolled intersection, slamming into the car ahead of you.

You immediately shift into park so you can go help when your car’s dashboard gauges suddenly power down. Something’s clearly not right. You look around and notice that all the other cars on the street have rolled to a stop, too. And the pedestrians are either rubber-necking toward the accident or staring confusedly at their unresponsive mobile phones.

The New Plan: No street lights. No cars running. No cellphones working. This isn’t your usual blackout. You know something seriously wrong is happening — an EMP attack is your first hunch, but could it be something more sinister? With your car knocked out, your smartphone dead, and night falling quickly, you know you can’t stay still. You have to move. But where? And how can you get more info? And most importantly, how can you communicate with your family to find out if they’ve been affected in your home state, too?

Disaster Prep Consultant: Richard Duarte’s Approach

Seeing an accident up close and personal is always shocking, but this was too close for comfort. In a split second, I abandoned all thoughts of a nice, quiet afternoon of sightseeing in Birmingham, as my brain shifted into hyper-vigilance mode. From the severity of the impact, I was convinced that the occupants of the vehicle in front of me were injured. I tried to call 911, but my phone was dead.

I performed a 360-degree scan before jumping out of my car; I didn’t want to be the next person needing an ambulance. Walking up to the driver-side window, I could see that the driver and passenger both needed medical attention. I did my very best to sound confident as I reassured them that everything would be just fine. They appeared to be in shock, and the female passenger was frantically searching through a handbag, probably for her phone.

In a stroke of incredible luck, a police officer sitting in her cruiser just down the street saw the accident and ran over. She quickly assumed control of the scene and asked a bystander to call 911 with instructions to tell the dispatcher that an officer was already on the scene, but with no communications.

Wait, what? The officer’s radio wasn’t working either? That was too much to be coincidence — something was seriously wrong.

I walked back to my car and tried to start it — nothing. I grabbed my bag and began scouting out the immediate area. I always travel light, but I never leave home without essential gear — far less than my bug-out bag, but definitely more than my everyday carry (EDC). This gear goes with me everywhere I go.

I spotted a Mexican restaurant across the street, walked over, and asked if I could use their phone. The manager, John, said the phone wasn’t working. In fact, according to him everything in the restaurant had just gone dark. John kept talking, but his voice faded into the background as the grim realization finally hit me like a stiff kick to the groin. Was all this the result of an electromagnetic pulse (EMP) event? Nothing else could explain what was happening. But how? Stupid question, since the “how” really didn’t matter.

I needed to get my bearings, and to formulate a plan. I always carry a map of my anticipated travel area, notated with important details, including locations of interest, (i.e., hospitals, fire stations, police headquarters, and potential dangers to avoid). I was clearly in an urban area surrounded by office buildings, restaurants, hotels, and other retail businesses, but with my marked-up map I quickly oriented myself. Good news, a Birmingham police station was only half a mile away.

At that moment, however, it might as well have been on the moon. Gray scattered clouds had given way to a dark ominous sky and heavy rainfall. Considering the circumstances, staying put seemed like the most prudent thing to do.

As the downpour began, about a dozen people rushed into the restaurant asking to use the phone. John quickly put up a hand-written sign that read “PHONE NOT WORKING.” The large crowd outside the restaurant was getting agitated, and many began running for cover from the rain.

Realizing that an ambulance wasn’t coming anytime soon, the police officer decided to move the accident victims. And yes, they also ended up in the restaurant; they were banged-up and bleeding, but thankfully they were conscious and walking.

By now, most of the surrounding buildings had emptied out, as offices and businesses closed early and dismissed their employees. Many of these folks, no doubt initially overjoyed to be going home early, must have gotten quite the shock when their cars didn’t start. Less than an hour into the ordeal, and things were already getting pretty ugly. Hundreds of people were huddling in every nook and cranny that offered any shelter from the weather, as they waited for someone to come and tell them what to do. When help didn’t arrive, the crowds grew more restless. I had no intention of waiting for the cavalry; I needed to get to work.

I wasn’t sure of too many things at that moment, but walking out into the unknown wasn’t an option. From the notes on my map I knew that Birmingham was the most populous city in Alabama — about 212,000 according to the 2010 U.S. Census. In 2011, however, U.S. News & World Report ranked Birmingham as the third most dangerous city in the nation. I didn’t want to be caught alone in the open, in an unfamiliar city, especially once night fell. My map and my notes proved to be very valuable.

The rain was coming down harder and more people ran for cover. Many wanted to come into the restaurant, but John decided that there were already too many people and he locked the doors. Immediately some people inside the restaurant began objecting. “That’s my friend,” an older woman said. “Let her in!” Others joined, demanding he open up.

“It’s for your safety,” John responded. The crowd started shouting. The police officer, Officer Carlton, jumped in — she explained that the restaurant was private property and that anyone who didn’t want to stay could leave. But, staying indoors was the best option for now. After a quiet moment of reflection, and several muffled conversations, about half of the people decided to leave and take their chances on the streets.

I took the opportunity to huddle with John and Officer Carlton. Turns out that the restaurant had received a large delivery of food, bottled water, and other drinks the day before. John also had a comprehensive first-aid/burn kit, as well as flashlights with extra batteries in his office. I looked around and found a few more goodies, including some restaurant uniforms (dry clothes), a basic toolkit, and yes, some kitchen knives to keep nearby, just in case. I was packing (Alabama honors Florida concealed carry permits), but it’s always good to have more than one iron in the fire. After making sure all the entry points were locked down, I returned to the group.

We had food, water, and first aid, but our security and self-defense situation was sketchy at best, and could take a turn for the worse at any moment.

We all settled down toward the rear of the restaurant, away from the expansive glass windows and doors, and we agreed to take turns standing watch. I finally had a chance to talk a bit more with John; turns out he was a U.S. Marine veteran who had served multiple tours in Iraq and Afghanistan; this explained a lot. Our talk was interrupted by three rapid taps on the front glass door, followed by three more taps. Officer Carlton seemed to recognize the knock pattern, and immediately ran toward the door.

Two Birmingham police officers hurried in — both had AR-15s, body armor, and ballistic helmets. They had been at the station when the power went out. Headquarters had quickly dispatched teams to the last known locations to try and find the officers who had been out on patrol when it all went down. None of us had noticed, but Officer Carlton had previously made a mark on the door outside the restaurant, to signal her location to fellow officers who might be looking for her — pretty smart.

The officers wasted no time letting us know that we had to leave the building. There was a mob about a mile down on 11th Avenue North, and they were headed this way, burning, looting, and destroying everything in their path. To engage such a mob under these conditions was insanity; we decided it was best to get out of their way. They were coming down the street in parade formation, so we would use the back roads and alleys, and other less-direct routes to make a hasty exit.

The Birmingham police station was about a 10-minute walk from our location. The officers told us we would be safer there. We gathered up all the food, water, and supplies we could carry and set off into the night. Not far from the station, a group of young men armed with pipes and baseball bats started running toward us. That is until they found themselves staring down the barrels of three ARs — it’s amazing what a show of force can accomplish. The officers got us all safely inside and then took off again.

I never saw Officer Carlton again. I had no idea how all this would end, but I was certain the path ahead would be dark and very difficult for all of us.

Escape-and-Evasion Expert: Kevin Reeve’s Approach

As I got close to the Alabama Sports Hall of Fame, the stoplights went out. Then a car drifted through the intersection and was hit by a vehicle coming from the side street. Then my own car died and wouldn’t start again. I tried calling 911, but my phone was dead too. That caused a great sucking sound as the air exited my lungs. All the other automobiles in the area were coasting to a stop.
This could mean only one thing: An EMP that causes the immediate destruction of all electronic devices and the electrical grid. It is the absolute worst-case scenario. A return to the Dark Age.
As I looked out on the scene, most people were paralyzed. Some tried incessantly to revive their cars, some looked confused. I explained the situation to some in my immediate vicinity, but even when presented with the facts, most couldn’t accept it.

In the back of my Jeep I had a go-bag with about 65 pounds of gear. I shouldered the pack, grabbed a couple gallon jugs of water, and began walking. I was looking for a safe place to hole up and get myself organized. The ideal place would be an abandoned industrial space or an empty retail store. I walked south on 22nd Street and hit the train tracks. It started to rain, so I got into my poncho and turned southwest.

I walked until I found the perfect place, an abandoned steam plant. I walked around the perimeter, checking the exterior doors. I found a door with a chain and padlock. Using my lockpicks, I opened the lock, went inside, and relocked it with the lock on the inside. My older flashlight seemed unaffected by the EMP, so I could see my way inside.

Once through the door, I sat quietly for a good 10 minutes, listening for sounds of other humans or animals inside the structure. All was quiet.

After a bit of exploration, I found a long abandoned office with a chair and desk. I set my pack on the floor and began to empty the contents of the pack onto the desk. It gave me a chance to gather my thoughts, assess my gear, and make a plan. I learned from an old-school SERE instructor to lay out all your gear — it’ll help you remember what you have and trigger new ideas.

My gear list included some shelter basics, a Katadyn Pocket water filter, several knives of various sizes and purposes, a Gransfors Bruk hand ax, an 8-inch file, a Leatherman Wave, a Glock 19, and five loaded mags plus an extra 100 loose rounds. I had a pair of nice Zeiss binos and an inexpensive gen 2 night-vision goggle (NVG) — which would have been totally useless in this situation had I not had the foresight to wrap it my own homemade Faraday bag. I checked to make sure; the NVG seemed to have been unaffected by the pulse.

I also had a small titanium cook/mug and a Solo Stove, which burns twigs. With the five-day supply of Mountain House food, I also had approximately 2,000 calories a day; I would need to supplement.

My first-aid supplies were limited to a trauma and medical kit I had put together for road trips. I had a folding solar panel for charging my now worthless cellphone, but I also had a Wouxun dual band Ham radio that I carried in a small metal gun case. I bought it expressly to protect the radio from an EMP. I needed to find out if it worked, but not just yet. I was pretty sure the solar panel would still work and could keep the radio charged. I carried a few other odds and ends, including my cherished hygiene bag with toilet paper in it. And a trap bag with 12 commercially made snares.

I sat back in the chair and contemplated my situation.

I was 1,500 miles from home. I had enough water for a couple of days, and enough food for a few more. There were no longer any transportation systems to bring food into the city. No emergency services to provide assistance and protection. Water and sewer systems were no longer functional.

It was inevitable the locals would soon become restless. I am nine meals away from anarchy in the streets. That meant I had a couple of days to figure it out.

The Jeep I left in the street was a ’91 YJ with an electronic engine control module (ECM) that must have been fried by the EMP. Several years prior, I read One Second After about an EMP attack, and it scared me enough to get me prepared. One of the things I did was buy a spare ECM and wrap it in alternating layers of bubble wrap, aluminum foil, and a final wrap of heavy paper. I kept it, along with several tools, in the metal truck box that replaced my backseat.

I located a roll-up door on the railroad track side of the building, unlocked it, and waited for dark. With no manmade lights working and minimal moonlight, it was hard to see more than 20 or 30 feet. The ambient light was enough for the NVG, and I put it on and looked out the window of my office. I could see fires burning across the city, but there was no one out on the tracks that I could make out. I left under cover of darkness to see if I could repair my Jeep. The night-vision gear proved worth the effort. I saw a few people standing around a burn barrel a few blocks down on 6th Avenue. And I diverted over to 19th Street to avoid the county jail.

When I got to my YJ I could see no one else was on the street. I retrieved the ECM from the box in the back and, as quietly as I could, replaced the old ECM with the spare. Now for the moment of truth. With my pistol and spare mags next to me, I turned the key. The engine roared to life. I didn’t use the headlights. I drove north a block and then down 19th again.

I got back to the train tracks and drove them for a bumpy couple hundred yards until I reached the plant, pulled in, and closed the door. Then I went to the window and watched with the night vision for about an hour. I hoped my movement was too fast to allow anyone to follow. Thankfully, it was.

Over the course of the next few nights, I went out gathering gasoline from abandoned cars. I carried three jerry cans on the back of the Jeep. I scrounged another three plastic 5-gallon cans, so that gave me 30 gallons spare.

Now with as much fuel as I could reasonably carry, I set about procuring food. I set out a trap line one night along the tracks, bagging two raccoons and a possum on the first night. During the day, I skinned and cut the raccoons and stripped them for jerky. In the basement of the building, during daylight hours, I built a small fire from pallets, and began to smoke/dry the meat into jerky. On the third night I caught a cat and another two raccoons. This would eventually yield a pretty good amount of protein that I started adding to the dehydrated meals. The meat was OK this way.

Across the tracks was another industrial building with a large water tower on the roof. In the dark of the night, I made my way over. I picked the backdoor lock and made my way to the roof where I found a spigot on the water line coming from the tank and replenished my water supplies. This gave me 9 gallons.

Later, I was awakened by the sounds of gunfire. Sporadic at first, then increasing and getting closer. Yep. On the third night, anarchy had begun.

I planned to make contact with family via the Ham radio, but not until at least two weeks had passed in case of a second blast. I did open the box a few times and scanned for traffic on the shortwave freqs, but until I got to Mississippi I wouldn’t transmit. I had established protocols as to time of day and frequency for contacting my family. But they knew I wouldn’t contact them until two weeks had passed.

On day 11, just at dusk, I heard someone outside. I peeked out and saw three men, one with bolt cutters. They made their way to the door I had been using and snapped the chain. I drew the Glock and waited. I shouted a warning as they entered the hall. They laughed and advanced, completely unafraid. I got a round into one, and they all lit out.

It was time to leave. I had cured about 30 pounds of meat, had 10 gallons of water, 30 spare gallons of gas, and 20 in the tank. That gave me a range of about 800 miles. I was as ready as I could be.

I had been studying my Alabama atlas, and figured I’d stick to traveling at night on the railway right-of-way until I got to McCalla. Then, I’d try to get to the Mississippi River on country roads. I wanted to cross the mighty Mississippi at Swiftwater.

And that was how it went. Driving slowly at night with the lights out. Pulling into trails to lay up during the day, gathering gas from abandoned cars, I finally made the river. Now, I still had a long way to go, but I was in a rhythm and at the rate I was going, I could be home by spring. And they knew I was coming.

Survival Expert: Tim MacWelch’s Approach

The lights, the plane, the cars — it had to be an EMP. I needed more information to figure out my next move and protect myself as night approached. But after seeing the car crash at the intersection, I knew it would be bad, and there were going to be injuries. Without thinking, I reached for my phone to call 911. Then I remembered that the screen had gone black. I held the button to turn the device on, but nothing happened. Paramedics aren’t coming, I thought, because no one can call them.

Of course, I was worried about my own hide in that situation. And my thoughts jumped to my family next. Did this event hit their area too? I pushed away that line of thinking, because it wasn’t helping me or anyone else right then and there.

I had to consider my survival priorities. Shelter, water, food, and communications would be needed; but I also knew there were two other things that were a higher priority in such situations: personal security and first aid. People would begin to unravel. And in a high-crime city, I didn’t want to be caught out in the open. I needed a defensible shelter and facts, so I decided that I would head back to the facility where I provided the training, the Birmingham Fire Prevention Center. It wasn’t that far.

Maybe I could take shelter there for the night, and EMS might have details about the event. But before that, I needed to do the right thing. I was trained to provide first aid in austere conditions, and it was likely that those crash victims needed medical help more than I needed shelter.

I hit the button to pop the trunk of my car. Nothing happened; the trunk didn’t open. I got out of the car carefully since I didn’t want to step into the path of another careening car. Using the key, I opened the trunk and pulled out my big red medical bag.

The young male driver who hit the stopped car was the first person I saw. He opened his car door and got out, holding his left shoulder. I asked if he needed help, but he simply turned and loped off — half running and half limping, without saying a word. The woman he hit wasn’t so lucky. Going to her broken-out driver-side window, I asked her if she was hurt. She moaned a bit as blood trickled from her nose. Her airbag had deployed, likely saving her life, but she wasn’t looking good or responding well. I knew I shouldn’t move her, in case of spinal injury, so I just kept talking to her as I bound her numerous cuts and scratches caused by the broken glass.

My moral dilemma was reaching a breaking point, when I finally received outside help. I heard him first, before I saw him. A man’s voice was yelling “Molly!” as he ran up the street. It was her husband. She had just dropped him off at work right before everything came unglued. Weeping, he thanked me for helping her, but it was time for me to leave.

Thank God I took the car! I thought. If I had to get caught in a technological apocalypse, this was the vehicle to bring. It was just a beat-up old four-door sedan, the kind of car that no one would want to steal. That’s why I drove it. And beneath that humble exterior, it was loaded to the gills with emergency supplies. Not only did I have all of my “show and tell” gear from my survival class, but I had the med kit, a full bug-out bag (BOB), and lots of random supplies.

With rain looming, I was tempted to just stay in the car with my hoard. However, so many people were milling about, as if they had just awoken from some trance, staying put made me too much of a target. I loaded all my gear into the backseat of the car and locked myself inside. I quickly dumped my travel suitcase, setting aside one set of nondescript clothing.

I placed my BOB in the wheeled suitcase. I put a trash bag in my pocket, and into another trash bag, I loaded all of my extra food, the med kit, and water bottles that I kept in the car, topped off with the spare set of clothes. It was a heavy load, but I feared it still wasn’t enough. After exiting the car, I slung the trash bag over my shoulder and began pulling my disguised bug-out bag suitcase down the sidewalk to the intersection.

I knew that I was north of the Fire Prevention Center, but I had been using my phone to navigate and that tool no longer worked. With no street map, and most of the area streets being numbered in every direction, it wasn’t that clear which way I should go. With the clouds in place, I couldn’t even use the sun to navigate. I realized that I should have pulled the compass from my BOB before packing it up, but I didn’t want to pull open that treasure trove on the crowded street. I knew that Highway 20 ran northeast/southwest, but it also made some odd twists and turns through the city.

I needed to get my bearings to head south to the center, and that’s when I noticed the first satellite TV dish. Those face south by southeast. And they were everywhere! I could navigate with those.

Crossing underneath 20, I treated the dishes like arrows pointing the way south. After many blocks, and after many people eyeballed me and my load, I was close to the Fire Center. That’s when two young men stepped out of a doorway, blocking my path. I wasn’t shocked, in fact, I’d been expecting it. And I prepared myself to spring one of my favorite psychological traps.

“Whatcha got in the trash bag, mister?” the taller fellow asked. “Yeah, looks heavy. Let’s have a look inside,” his accomplice replied.

I stood perfectly still, shifting my gaze from one man’s eyes to the other. When the taller man reached for the bag, I took a step back and let the bag roll off my shoulder. Before they could lay hands upon it or me, I opened the bag and spoke into it “He wants to see you. Both of you!” I locked eyes with my adversaries again, one then the other, making uncomfortable and awkward eye contact.

They stood still, rather surprised. One man peeked into the bag, seeing only the clothing on top. “You want to meet my cat or my dog first?” I said a little louder. The men looked at each other with a puzzled expression. “You ever eat a cat or a dog?” I queried them as I took a quick step forward with my open bag. They took half a step back, and glanced at each other again.

Then they got hit with the showstopper: “You ever try eating a baby?” I asked them while giving them the crazy eyes again.

As if on cue, the skies opened with heavy raindrops while I launched into my best impression of a Gary Busey laugh. Maniacal and completely off the rails. This was too much for the young duo of thugs. One shouted, “You’re crazy, man! I’m going to get the cops!” as they ran away in the rain. Taking the spare trash bag from my pocket, I ripped a hole in the bottom to create a rain poncho. Then I hoisted the other bag over my shoulder again and found my way to the Fire Prevention Center. One of the firefighters I had trained saw me through the locked glass door and let me in. She showed me a handwritten note from the mayor’s office, brought to the station by a bike messenger.

The entire southeast was down. It was an EMP and all of the electronics in five states were fried. There was my worst fear, hastily scribbled in black and white. And there I stood, 1,000 miles away from my family. I stayed for a few days with my new friends at the fire department, but they knew I had no intention of staying longer.

The fire department gave me all the provisions I could fit in my rolling suitcase, and then I began the long walk home.

Conclusion

Everything today is online, electronic, and interconnected. It’s a convenient system, but it’s also vulnerable. Should a massive solar flare or the high-altitude detonation of a nuclear weapon occur, it could shower the underlying area with electromagnetic energy — potentially destroying the electrical grid, communications, and even our personal electronics. If this were to happen over your area, you’d better be ready to join an 1800s frontier community because your day job (and life as you know it) would be gone. And changing from an IT career to shoeing horses is far from your only problem.

Just because old-fashioned technologies are the only ones still working, don’t expect old-fashioned values and civility to return. We can all imagine the self-centered and criminal behavior of a city full of modern people desperate for supplies and lacking the skills of self-sufficiency. It wouldn’t be pretty on the first day of an EMP attack, and when the masses figure out that their cushy life is over — all we can say is, “Welcome to the Wild Wild West, sucka!”

Meet Our Panel

Tim MacWelch

Tim MacWelch has been a survival instructor for more than 20 years, training people from all walks of life, including members from all branches of the U.S. Armed Forces, the State Department, DOD, and DOJ personnel. He’s a frequent public speaker for preparedness groups and events. He’s also the author of three New York Times-bestselling survival books, and the new Ultimate Bushcraft Survival Manual. When he’s not teaching survival or writing about it, MacWelch lives a self-reliant lifestyle with his family in Virginia. Check out his wide range of hands-on training courses that are open to the public at www.advancedsurvivaltraining.com.

Kevin Reeve

Kevin Reeve is the founder and Director of onPoint Tactical, the leading provider of training in Urban Survival and Escape and Evasion. onPoint has trained many members of elite military groups such as U.S. Army Special Forces, U.S. Navy SEALs, MARSOC, AF Pararescue, Navy, and Air Force SERE Instructors, as well as members of the DEA, U.S. Marshal Service, ICE, Secret Service, and OGA. In addition to urban skills, Kevin teaches wilderness survival, tracking, SERE, point man training, scout, and related skills. He also provides training to executives and businessmen on counter and antikidnapping. Kevin has also been involved in scouting for over 35 years, including 25 years as a Scoutmaster. www.onpointtactical.com

Richard Duarte

Richard Duarte is a practicing attorney, an urban survival consultant, writer, and firearms enthusiast. He’s the author of Surviving Doomsday: A Guide for Surviving an Urban Disaster, and The Quick Start Guide for Urban Preparedness. For the latest preparedness news and updates, connect with Richard on www.quickstartsurvival.com and on Facebook at www.facebook.com/survivingdoomsdaythebook.

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Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.