Review: Kershaw Bareknuckle Folding Knife

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We've been pleased to see a resurgence in American manufacturing over the last few years, with more outdoor gear companies offering products that are made in the USA. More importantly, these companies have shown that you don't have to break the bank to afford these products. Kershaw Knives has been expanding its American-made line of folding knives with models such as the Link, Dividend, and most recently, the Bareknuckle.

Design Origin

The Kershaw Bareknuckle is one of several knife designs inspired by the Zero Tolerance 0777, an ultra-high-end production folder that was first unveiled eight years ago. Even the Bareknuckle's model number, 7777, is a nod to this origin. The ZT 0777 featured a Bohler N360 blade with herringbone-pattern Damascus steel on the spine, as well as a sculpted carbon fiber handle, KVT ball bearing pivot, and a titanium Sub-Frame Lock (more on this feature later). The 0777 generated a lot of buzz at the time, and won Blade Magazine's Overall Knife of the Year award for 2011, but its high price point made it primarily a collector's item. It was officially retired in 2013.

From top: ZT 0777, ZT 0770CF, Kershaw Natrix, and Kershaw Bareknuckle.

As a result of its design inspiration, the Bareknuckle shares lineage with the current-production Zero Tolerance 0770 and Kershaw Natrix. Both of these knives were also directly inspired by the 0777. However, before you question the need for three knives with such similar designs, consider the differences between them.

As anyone who knows the Zero Tolerance brand can guess, the 0770 is made in America and occupies the premium price point at $240. Its blade is S35VN steel, and it features a liner lock (unlike most other frame-lock ZTs). The Kershaw Natrix, on the other hand, is positioned as an affordable every-day carry tool. It's manufactured overseas with an 8Cr13MoV blade, and sold at an MSRP of $63.

The Kershaw Bareknuckle

The Bareknuckle essentially splits the difference between its two siblings. It's priced at $120, but also made in America.

Its blade is constructed from Sandvik 14C28N, a stainless steel that was created through a partnership between Kershaw and Swedish steel-maker Sandvik. The material offers excellent corrosion resistance and a good balance between edge retention and ease of sharpening. This steel is also fine-blankable, meaning that Kershaw can mass-produce partially-finished fine blanks of blades and quickly finish them by hand. The fine blanking process keeps manufacturing cost relatively low, so it's an important factor in producing a quality knife in the USA at this price point.

The Bareknuckle's handle consists of two pieces of lightweight aluminum, sculpted with the same smooth lines and large forefinger notch seen on the 0777. The pivot is a much simpler design than the decorative machined pivots of its predecessors, and the flipper seems to be rounded slightly in comparison. The deep-carry pocket clip is very similar to that of the Natrix, but now features a recessed Kershaw logo instead of the black logo used on the Natrix's clip.

Sub-Frame Lock

Like the Natrix and the original ZT 0777, the Kershaw Bareknuckle uses a Sub-Frame Lock mechanism. This patented lock looks similar to a traditional frame lock, but instead of being integrated directly into the frame, it uses a lock bar attached to a steel plate inside the frame.

Steel is heavy, so if you want a lightweight handle, you'll be better off with aluminum. However, aluminum isn't well-suited to use on frame locks because it wears quickly compared to steel. The Sub-Frame Lock combines the strength of a steel lock bar with the lightness of an aluminum handle, all while offering a sturdier feel than a liner lock.

Our Impressions

We spent a few weeks carrying the Kershaw Bareknuckle, and recorded our impressions. On the whole, the knife feels great in hand, with the curved handle and forefinger notch making it easy to control. We liked the blade shape as well — it blends elements of a drop point and sheepsfoot, and the sharp tip makes quick work of cutting through boxes and packaging. The reversible deep-carry pocket clip is a plus, and a feature we've paid extra to add to a few of our other knives by way of aftermarket replacement clips.

Flipping the blade open presents some issues. The flipper is rounded at the tip, and the situation is exacerbated by a strong lock bar detent that applies pressure to the blade as it pivots. Sometimes the blade flicked open smoothly. Sometimes it swung open halfway before stopping. Sometimes our fingers slipped off the flipper and the blade didn't budge. This problem diminished as we broke in the knife, and diminished more after generously oiling the pivot and detent, but it never went away entirely.

Fortunately, once the knife is opened, the Sub-Frame Lock keeps it in place securely and is simple to disengage. From a purely aesthetic standpoint, we aren't fans of the “Pat 9,120,234” prominently laser-etched on the lock. We assume it has to be there for legal reasons — then again, none of the other knives in the family have patent number etchings.

In terms of materials, the Sandvik 14C28N steel is a good choice for EDC. While it's not as durable as premium steels like S35VN, it's a big step up from the 8Cr13MoV used on the imported Natrix. We've also tested the aforementioned Kershaw Link and Dividend from the company's Made in USA series, and the Link would be our first choice of the three designs. That said, the Link uses 420HC blade steel, so we'd consider the Bareknuckle's Sandvik steel to be superior.

The Bareknuckle is an appealing mid-range EDC knife, especially for fans of the 0777 design. The materials are solid, and we appreciate that it's made in the USA. Our opinion of it is somewhat mixed, however, due to the unavoidable issues we experienced with flipping it open.

For more information on the Kershaw Bareknuckle, go to KershawKnives.com.

Pros:

  • Handle design provides a comfortable and secure grip
  • Tip shape makes this knife excellent for everyday slicing and piercing tasks
  • Deep-carry pocket clip tucks the knife neatly into pockets
  • Made in the USA

Cons:

  • Flipper's shape and placement make opening the knife tricky
  • The grind on our test sample's blade was slightly uneven at the tip
  • Prominent patent label on the Sub-Frame Lock detracts from the knife's appearance

New at NRA 2019: Marlin Dark Series Lever-Action Rifles

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Many of us grew up watching old western movies with cowboys riding around on horseback with lever-action rifles at the ready. While we'll always appreciate these classic weapons, we also recognize that times have changed. That old-school lever gun is still an effective tool, but its popularity has waned in comparison to newer black rifles and their myriad of accessories. Marlin has also recognized this trend, and unveiled a new series of rifles at the 2019 NRA Annual Meeting that blend the timeless lever gun with modern elements.

Grandpa might not like it very much, but we do.

The new Marlin Dark series includes Model 336 in .30-30 Winchester, and Model 1895 in the formidable .45-70 Government. These rifles feature black hardwood furniture and a black parkerized finish on the receiver, 16.25-inch barrel, and 5-round magazine tube. The barrel is threaded to accept a suppressor or a muzzle brake — we strongly recommend the latter if you choose the shoulder-pummeling .45-70.

Several upgrades have already been installed on these Marlin Dark series guns at the factory. Each comes with an XS lever rail and ghost ring sight, so you'll easily be able to install a red dot right or magnified optic of your choosing. A paracord sling is included, and you'll find more paracord wrapped around the big-loop lever. MSRP is $949 for either Model 336 or Model 1895.

We're hoping to get our hands on one of these Dark lever guns in the near future for a write-up, so stay tuned for more details.

Disaster, Survival Situation, or Bug-Out Scenario – What’s the Difference?

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This article originally appeared in Issue 4 of our magazine.

In our modern world, we’re constantly presented with new concepts and theories for survival, gear, and gadgets, as well as new terminology that seems to pair nicely with all your cool new stuff. From “rolling gear” and “BOBs” (bug-out bags) to “caching” at rendezvous points, all this survival lingo can get a bit convoluted. As you have undoubtedly heard and read from likeminded people, both online and even in this very magazine, there are many labels for particular situations as well.

But what are the differences among a “survival situation,” a “disaster situation,” and a “bug-out situation?” Potentially horrific events flood the airwaves, the Web, newspapers, and lunchtime conversations. But what does it all mean? Are all these situations the same?

It all sounds a bit confusing. So to help decipher these now commonly used terms, we’ll boil them down to a few major categories. Let’s take a look at the major topics in this world of survival and all things disastrous/apocalyptic/zombie/end-of-the-world.

First, there is the known. What has happened on our planet thus far in history? Of what we know that has occurred, what incidents would be considered a threat? Big storms, earthquakes, acts of war, pandemics, forest fires, droughts, famine … sadly, the list can go on and on. Not to mention all the potential unknowns.

In the modern practice of prepping — we like to say, “being prepared is being responsible” — we have to define some basic scenarios and clarify the differences between them. There are three key scenarios that we need to understand and prepare for:

  1. Disaster Situation
  2. Survival Situation
  3. Bug-Out/In Situation

We must understand that these three can overlap one another — or one can turn into another at a moment’s notice. Depending on the particular scenario, and whether or not you have been a proactive planner, your position in a disaster situation may quickly turn into a bug-out situation. Then depending on your survival skills and available resources, it might remain at a manageable level or devolve into a survival situation.

Disaster Situation

“Disaster” or “natural disaster” are two of the most commonly used terms. But what should really be classified as a disaster? To generalize a bit, most of the time it is related to a localized disruption due to any number of reasons. Let’s examine natural disasters first.

Natural disasters occur regularly all over the planet, and have besieged the human race throughout the ages — hurricanes, tornadoes, typhoons, and now super storms, blizzards, ice storms, heat waves, and droughts. These types of disasters can happen swiftly with very little warning, like a tornado. Earthquakes are a prime example of a natural disaster that can completely disrupt, destroy, and kill in an instant and without any warning at all. On the other hand, your local weather anchor might be warning you all week that a pending storm is on the way and that you should expect serious amounts of damage.

It is in this type of pending potential disaster that we can actually choose to “bug in” or “bug out.” The reality is that if you have an opportunity to leave in advance, choose not to, and then suddenly it turns out worse than anyone had expected, are you really equipped to deal with it? Or are you just placing yourself in harm’s way no matter how proactively you’ve prepared? Are you risking your life or other lives by choosing to stay? Before something like an approaching storm, you have the ability to leave the area. After the fact, it may be impossible to go anywhere due to massive damage and losses to the infrastructure in your area. This in turn affects the ability of emergency agencies to help you.

All this can happen if you choose to stay when you should have simply left — Super Storm Sandy, for example. We had plenty of warning, yet folks ended up dying in that storm. There was no reason for that to happen. So when it comes to storms and other forms of localized disasters, please use your best judgment — be rational and pragmatic.

Another type of disaster is, sadly, the man-made kind. These really piss me off. Think of all the oil spills, chemical leaks, preventable forest fires, nuclear catastrophes — the list seems endless. Though they may not always put your life in immediate danger, they are disastrous to all the animals in the region, to the waters we depend on, and to the world in general.

Survival Situation

In certain cases, a disaster situation can develop into a full-fledged survival situation. Think loss of the power grid due to a solar flare (see “Blackout Preparations” in the Summer 2013 issue of our magazine). How about the sinking of a cruise ship? A crashed plane?

Or picture this: A huge storm hits your area, and you become trapped by raging flood waters. You are cut off from any outside help. What are your resources? What do you have with you? Who is with you? Do they have skills? What time of year is it? Is it safe to stay where you are or do you have to move? Many more questions should be asked. Survival situations can develop instantly or over a period of time.

In a major storm, for example, you may prep your home with extra food, water, pharmaceuticals, and any other personal provisions that your family may need. You’ve done your due diligence and have everything organized. You’re ready. Then the storm hits, and it’s a big one. Nervous, you sit and wait it out. It can go several ways — if you’re just dealing with the inconvenience of temporary power loss, hopefully you have what you need to last you until it returns.

But it might become so bad that your area is declared a disaster area. You might become completely stranded from any outside help whatsoever. Your house and all your carefully prepared supplies are now floating away in the huge flood that followed the storm. You now have to rely on your wits, skills, and available material resources.

Now, you need to follow the order of survival:

Step 1: Secure shelter
Step 2: Find water (or utilize appropriate filtration/purification)
Step 3: Build a fire
Step 4: Procure food

All the while, you need to keep in mind your safety and security. Perhaps you’re on a road trip in the middle of nowhere. Your car suddenly breaks down. Perhaps you simply forgot to stash supplies and gear in your own car, or you’re on a business trip in a rental car. You have just entered a potentially dangerous situation. The difference is whether or not you have skills that will mitigate your lack of gear.

Survival situations can also be so raw that you may only have what’s literally on your person at the time of the event or what you can find in the environment around you. This might not fit into your overall master plan of preparedness. But guess what? Tough! You have to make do with the situation and adapt.

Bug-Out Situation

What if the situation dictates that you must leave the area immediately? Bugging out is a method of action that can potentially save yourself and others. Understand that most Americans live in and around major cities — according to the last census, more than 70 percent of the U.S. population lives in areas with 50,000 people or more.

For example, you may need to bug out if your area has become too dangerous to be in or has been simply cut off from any and all support. Making a decision on whether or not you should leave is something that you alone will need to determine. Sometimes you may have to make that determination within moments of a particular event.

When it comes to actually bugging out, your preplanning comes into play. How far and how fast do you need to travel? How well are you practiced? How heavy is your BOB? What is inside your bag? Have you ever tried to walk for more than 5 miles with it fully loaded on your back? Did you even have the time to grab it? If not, we hope that you and your loved ones, friends, and coworkers know how to survive without your go-bags. Remember, a BOB is something that essentially represents what we know and what we don’t know. In other words, are you so dependent on the bag and its contents to save yourself? If you can’t survive without it, then what are you missing?

When discussing bugging out, many folks often focus on their bags. But there are so many factors that can influence your response and that you should consider in advance.

A bug-out response should be part of your overall emergency action plan. (See “Bug Out 101” in the Summer 2013 issue of our magazine.) It should be preplanned with rendezvous points, communication options, and predetermined paths of travel, as well as safety and security. There is much to consider in creating a bug-out plan. And all of these skills can be learned.

The More You Know

We have heard many folks in our programs talk about these various factors and how they impact their survival plans. When addressing these three different types of situations, it becomes clear how easily one can overlap or transition into another.

The first step is to build your foundation. So, start with the basic explanations in this article and understand the fundamental differences between these types of situations. As we have mentioned in past articles, honestly assess your own skills and abilities and start applying those skill sets to your overall plan. We can plan until the cows come home, but none of it matters unless you practice.

Then take it upon yourself to learn more and further your knowledge and experience base. Take notes from world disasters throughout history, from local disasters, and from individuals recounting their own personal survival stories.

As we have learned in the past, no matter the scenario — whether a disaster, survival, or bug-out situation — it’s a matter of clearly recognizing what truly lies before you and acting accordingly. The more skills you possess, the more risk factors that you can mitigate. Think about the skill sets that require no gear and make sure you have them covered. For instance, learn basic first-aid and CPR — these skills are invaluable and give you the ability to help not just yourself, but others as well. Find a school near you that offers primitive and urban survival skills. Skills always remain with you, even if all you have is the shirt on your back.

As you move forward in becoming more self-sufficient, you will develop a greater appreciation of your own potential. And you will begin to realize that you are more and more equipped to handle any of these types of scenarios.

Stay in the now, be present. This will help you recognize the subtle changes that occur during times like these. Train hard and share with others.

About the Author

Shane Hobel, also known as “White Feather,” is the founder and head instructor of Mountain Scout Survival School, based in New York. He’s been featured on numerous TV networks, including FOX News, History, National Geographic, and NBC. Specializing in wilderness primitive skills and urban emergency preparedness (among other programs), his company is the only one allowed to teach in the middle of Manhattan’s Central Park and was named one of the top 12 survival schools in the country by USA Today. Also, Hobel is one of five elite members of the Tracker Search and Forensic Investigation Team, which is called upon to track and find fugitives, lost children, hunters, and hikers. www.mtnscoutsurvival.com

New: TOPS Dicer Kitchen Knives

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It's always a good idea to have a general-purpose camp knife handy, but these tools often fall into the Jack of all trades, master of none category. They're equally effective for shaving feather sticks, skinning game, and batoning firewood, but not overly specialized for any single task. However, there are times where a specialized knife can make work much easier — preparing food is one such instance. A good set of kitchen knives will help you slice, dice, and chop with increased speed and precision.

TOPS Knives recently released its new Dicer series of kitchen knives, including the Dicer 8 Chef's Knife and Dicer 3 Paring Knife. These blades are intended to be sturdy and capable of outdoor use, so they'd be well-suited to camp cooking or grilling in addition to typical use at home. They're constructed from premium CPM S35VN stainless steel with contoured handle scales made from durable blue-and-black layered G10. Each knife comes with a black Kydex sheath.

The Dicer 8 features a flat belly that curves upward into the tip, allowing for both chopping and slicing. The heel of the 7.75-inch blade features a subtle cutaway in the forefinger area for a secure grip. MSRP is $250.

The Dicer 3 is intended as a paring knife, although it looks like it could serve as an EDC knife as well. It features a 3.5-inch blade with a smoothly-curved belly and sharp tip. A prominent forefinger guard protects the user's index finger from slipping onto the edge. MSRP is $200.

TOPS Knives is also currently offering the Dicer knives as a pair for $320, so you can save some money by purchasing them simultaneously. For more information on the TOPS Dicer series, go to TOPSknives.com.

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Safe Haven: How to Buy Your Ideal Bug-Out Property

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This article originally appeared in Issue 5 of our magazine.

Hank Williams Jr. wrote and sang a song called “A Country Boy Can Survive.” The song spotlights the skills and abilities of people who can survive on their own, with a little backwoods knowhow common in rural America. You can improve your survivability by having backcountry property that’s able to sustain life when given the opportunity and a little preparation.

The problem for many of us, though, is that we’re city dwellers living in a concrete jungle of skyscrapers, surrounded by a sea of suburban sprawl. And even if you don’t live in a large metropolis like New York or Los Angeles, all it would take is one solid catastrophe to have your town go to pot. Owning land in the middle of nowhere — or at least isolated enough — will ensure you have a relatively safer destination to evacuate to in an emergency. A bug-out property can serve as a rally point for your family to reunite, a resupply depot (if you’ve dug a hidden cache) before moving to a safer region, or a place to set up your underground bunker (see below for more).

Selection of a great rural bug-out location begins by determining the distance you think you can travel when SHTF. Draw an arc on a map with that distance, and your search for a bug-out location can begin.

Determining Land Ownership

All real estate is owned by someone. It may be privately held or owned by some governmental agency, but rest assured it has an owner. Property in private ownership will tend to be urbanized in some form, even if it is a fishing cabin 10 miles from a paved road. Property owned by a government entity will most likely be rural. That governmental agency may be a utility district or a city, county, or state government. In fact, the federal government owns approximately 27 million rural acres. But just because property is owned by a governmental agency doesn’t mean it cannot be purchased or leased. For instance, you can obtain a leasehold interest in state and federal property, even in a national or state forest. (Visit www.fs.fed.us/land/staff/disposal.shtml to learn more.)

Most truly rural properties are located in unincorporated areas, meaning they are outside of a city’s jurisdiction and therefore only subject to development rules of the county or the state. County building and rural development rules tend to be much less restrictive than those of an urbanized city and far less scrutinized by governmental officials. Once an ideal bug-out location is found, ownership of the land, no matter how rural, can be determined relatively easily. Using a common smartphone app or a geodetic map, determine the exact longitude and latitude of the property in question. If the property actually has an address, present either the longitude/latitude or address to your local title insurance company.

Title insurance companies have access to the historical ownership data of every piece of property in the United States, according to Rick Fortunato, senior vice president for Chicago Title Company. You can even check on properties in other states from your local title insurance company; they all have nationwide data search capabilities. Historical property data may date back hundreds of years and may include photographs. For a very small fee, the title insurance company can give you the name and contact information for any property owner as well as provide important data such as existing taxes, recorded easements, guaranteed access rights, and, most importantly, water rights. You will want to make sure you have the right to access the property and build on it if you so desire. It’s also important to know if anyone else has any rights on your property before you acquire it. Those rights of others might include underground pipe easements and rights to access other adjacent properties.

Easements/Building Regulations

The ability to build on a property is controlled by the zoning of the governmental jurisdiction. Rural properties will most likely be governed by a county or parish, depending on the location. Once a property location is known, zoning and development standards for the property can be found online, in most cases, by contacting the governmental jurisdiction. The development standards may include a required minimum parcel size, maximum building height, selection of building materials, grading maximums, and other important regulations. Those other regulations might include permits needed for tree removal, stream alteration, habitat modification, and endangered species locations that may impact your ability to build. It’s important to know all of the regulations — even if you later choose to ignore them.

Most properties don’t have mineral or hydrocarbon rights. Those rights may have been acquired from previous property owners by large oil or mining companies many decades ago. It’s uncommon to have mining or oil-drilling rights, so don’t be surprised if your bug-out site doesn’t have them. Having easements on your property, for items such as underground piping, means that the easement holder usually has the right to come onto your property and repair the buried facilities at their discretion, not yours. The same would be true for mineral or hydrocarbon extraction. Theoretically, oil drilling and mining could occur at any time on your property although numerous governmental permits are required that often take years to obtain so it shouldn’t be a surprise. Large oil and mining companies, for public relations purposes, typically negotiate with nearby landowners to eliminate confrontation prior to initiating construction activities. Additionally, mining companies may not even need to set foot on your property, accessing those precious underground goodies from afar.

Water is a primary need for a long-term stay at any location. If permanent running water or a lake is not available, then a well can supply your water needs, assuming a well doesn’t already exist. Many properties don’t have the right to drill a new well, so a careful review of title insurance company data can determine water rights of any property. The cost of drilling a well varies greatly due to soils and geographical conditions. A call to a local drilling company near the intended property can give you a reasonable estimate of the cost of a new well. Electricity may be required to run a pump.

Homesteading

Under Abraham Lincoln in 1862, the federal government passed legislation to promote westward expansion and agricultural development, basically known as the Homesteading Act. This act provided 160 acres of free federal government land to persons wishing to start farming. Virgil Earp, Wyatt’s older brother, was a noted homesteader and, although decades ago homesteading was once a popular style of acquiring free ownership of rural property, it’s not a viable alternative in today’s world due to changes in the laws. During the peak of free land homesteading the federal government gave out over 270 million free acres of land. In 1986, congress amended the old federal law and eliminated that free land alternative. Only Alaska still offers a form of homesteading to promote recreational cabin development.

Financial Incentives

The federal government and all states have dozens of agricultural and farming assistance programs that offer both tax breaks and financial incentives for new farmers. You must substantially farm the land to achieve any meaningful tax break or development grant. A quick check of your state’s farmer assistance program will demonstrate ways of obtaining farmland. See the sidebar for additional resources that provide info on various other financial benefits you can qualify for.

Location, Location, Location

A quick search of the Internet using search terms like “bug-out properties” and “off-grid land” will produce hundreds of available, but certainly publicly known, properties. While searching, you might find excess state or federal property for sale, lease, or even trade. The federal government often auctions off excess land that even includes former military missile silos and hardened bunkers. Acquiring excess federal government land is as easy as checking their website at www.govsales.gov and looking in your geographical area of interest. Excess-land sales occur all the time.
A proper bug-out property can often be acquired with a minimum amount of money utilizing a variety of financing mechanisms and depending on how much you want to spend. Some government land leases are free. A lease of private or government land is the cheapest, quickest, and easiest way of obtaining use of a safe haven property, but it is subject to their rules. Such land — acquired under the radar, away from the Internet, and not financed — is the logical choice if you wish to maintain maximum security.

A title insurance company, along with a licensed real estate broker/agent, can provide you with important property data with a minimal cost. The title company agents can assist you in interpreting all of the necessary information on any property no matter its location.

A country boy can certainly survive on a cheap lease.

Bomb Shelter Tax Breaks

In the early 1960s, a number of states, not the federal government, passed legislation that gave homeowners a tax break for money spent building a bomb shelter. In a few states and some cities, those tax break rules from the ’60s have been overlooked and forgotten, but are still on the books. Your tax expert should check the regulations before taking the exemption on your returns for a preexisting bomb shelter on your property or building one that qualifies for exemption.

Drop-In Bunker

Now that you have acquired your bug-out land, you may choose to build your shelter yourself or hire someone else to do it for you. Another alternative is to buy a prefabricated bunker. Many of these premade bunkers can be customized to your specifications. They are constructed in a factory then brought your to your location, assembled, and professionally installed. There are many choices available; here are a few to check out.

Atlas Survival Shelters: This company makes underground cabins with patented “undetectable escape hatches” and plenty of amenities.
www.atlassurvivalshelters.com

Ultimate Bunker: This family-owned business builds underground bunkers, gun vaults, and storm shelters for various disasters.
www.ultimatebunker.com

Additional Resources

There are a variety of grants, subsidies, tax breaks, and other financial incentives your bug-out location may qualify for. Here is a brief list of the many resources available that can provide more information — but, as always, be sure to do your research first before soliciting any service for help.

Benefits.gov: A federal online guide to loans and grants for very low-income homeowners to repair and improve rural dwellings.
www.benefits.gov/benefits/benefit-details/402

Federal Grants Wire: This is a directory for various federal grants and loans available from several hundred governmental departments and agencies.
www.federalgrantswire.com

Land Trust Alliance: This organization assists in establishing land trusts for maintaining open land and conserving resources.
www.landtrustalliance.org/policy/public-funding/state-funding

Public Lands Title: A private company that will assist anyone over 18, for a small fee, in acquiring rural land in 18 states.
www.governmentland.com

The Center for Rural Affairs: This nonprofit corporation focuses on rural community development and family farm and ranch policy, among other issues.
www.cfra.org/renewrural/freeland

The Houston Chronicle: Provides data on ways of utilizing loans and grants from the U.S. Small Business Administration to buy farms, start businesses, and even start beekeeping.
http://smallbusiness.chron.com/grants-buying-farm-land-13924.html

USA.gov: The U.S. government’s official web portal contains a directory for federal and state government surplus and seized properties, as well as surplus land sales.
www.usa.gov/shopping/shopping.shtml

USDA Rural Development: A program from the U.S. Department of Agriculture to establish eligibility for obtaining rural housing.
http://eligibility.sc.egov.usda.gov/eligibility/welcomeAction.do

About the Author

Phil Schwartze is president of The PRS Group, a Southern California land-planning and entitlement-to-use company that specializes in obtaining governmental approvals for unique projects. He has a master’s degree from Cal State Los Angeles and is the former mayor of San Juan Capistrano, California. www.prsgrp.biz

New: Grey Ghost Gear RRS Transport Bag

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For many years, we've made a point to stash an emergency go-bag in each of our vehicles. These bags are less comprehensive than a full-fledged bug-out bag — the sort of pack we'd choose to meet all foreseeable needs in a long-term survival scenario — and are instead focused on short-term necessities. This means clothing and basic toiletries for an unexpected overnighter, food and water in case we end up stuck in the vehicle, a trauma kit for medical emergencies, batteries and chargers for our important electronics, basic tools, and a weapon in case things really go downhill. This way, we're never unprepared, even if we're running a quick errand on a moment's notice.

The team at Grey Ghost Gear have released their own take on the go-bag theme, known as the RRS Transport Bag. They say this duffel-style bag was “developed at the behest of several LEOs and First Responders from a cross-section of agencies in a large metropolitan area.” Now that the design has been tested in the field by these agencies, it's being made available to the general public as a go-bag or range bag.

The RRS Transport Bag has a large main compartment that will fit a folded SBR or PDW. This compartment also has a pair of zippered mesh pockets, six elastic loops for pistol mags or other tools, and a hook-and-loop surface to attach pouches or a holster. Each end of the bag has large pouches with buckle closures for stowing medical gear or other items you need to access quickly. The side of the bag offers five rifle mag pouches as well.

This bag is constructed from 500D Cordura, and includes dual carry handles plus a removable shoulder strap. MSRP is $86, and it's available in black, coyote brown, or ranger green. For more information on the RRS Transport, go to GreyGhostGear.com.

Food for Thought: How Long Can You Survive on Multi-Vitamins?

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This article originally appeared in Issue 4 of our magazine.

Here’s a cold hard fact: Overwhelmingly, urban dwellers are unprepared to face crises, their hope placed on FEMA or other disaster relief agencies to meet their post-crisis needs. Not having groceries is just one of those concerns.

Few would contest the notion that a well-nourished individual would thrive better than one merely trying to survive in the aftermath of a catastrophe. But, do you always need a sandwich to survive?

You may have incurred injuries. In addition to all your other gear, can you carry a 10-day supply of calories for yourself or your family? If not, who’s going to carry the 10-day water supply for each of them? Plus, you all may be on foot … and you may have to carry a child as well.

This intentionally provocative article examines the extreme situation of involuntary, near-total starvation, post-crisis in urban North America. Humans are actually more adaptable to starvation than generally appreciated. Healthy adults can benefit from an alternative strategy by understanding the adaptation process and how it might be optimized by simple oral supplements — versus having to carry a conventional calorie sub-load in your kit.

Are there precedents for urban starvation that we can study to develop a crisis calorie management plan? The truth is that there haven’t been any modern U.S. urban disasters where starvation-related mortality was a major concern, mostly because otherwise healthy adults can easily withstand fasting for three to five days, by which time disaster relief resources have usually managed to provide food and supplies to those directly affected by the crisis.

So for our purposes in this article, we’re looking beyond simply being hungry for three to five days, instead focusing on two distinct conditions of involuntary starvation beyond five days.
Individuals may be subjected to total or near-total starvation. With the former, no hydration and no caloric intake occurs — in this case, you will perish due to dehydration stress alone, generally surviving several days to a week or two depending on the individual. In the latter case of near-total starvation, you’re presumed to have access to at least nominal hydration levels, but otherwise no other essential micro-nutrients (vitamins) and caloric intake.

Get Informed

We can actually find relevant information on near-total starvation, both voluntary and involuntary. There are many examples that we can examine: professional entertainers in the late 1800s, who deliberately starved themselves in public at great length for fame and notoriety; starvation during polar desert expeditions; emaciated POWs in concentration camps; severe mental health disorders such as anorexia; prisoner hunger strikes; and even some specific medical studies, including the Minnesota Starvation Experiment (1944-’45) and the Iowa prison studies (1969).

The determinants of how long you can endure starvation include:

  • Availability of hydration
  • Initial body fat and protein stores
  • Calorie demand based on environment (e.g. cold, strenuous, etc.)
  • Initial health status (e.g. significant trauma accelerates the pace of starvation demise)
  • Gender (women have a slight survival advantage)
  • Age extremes (very young and old have limited fat and protein reserves)

In the past 50 years, the only well-documented involuntary near-total starvation in a North American survival situation is the story of Carla Corbus and her mother. After a small plane crash in California’s Trinity Mountain range during the winter of 1967, they survived starvation for at least 54 days before dying. Carla’s daily diary entries were published in the Saturday Evening Post in 1968. Incidentally, their tragic story was the impetus for legislation mandating transponder beacons for aircraft.

A normally proportioned 160-pound person requires approximately 1,200 calories per day to avoid adapting to fasting and starvation metabolism. Our metabolic sensors monitor our bodies and ensure that our brain tissues continuously receive a steady supply of their preferred energy source, glucose (carbohydrates). Upon sensing a caloric restriction, body stores of glucose, particularly muscle and liver glycogen, are consumed within 72 hours to nourish the brain and other critical tissues. And after only 12 hours of fasting, the next day’s carbohydrate calorie needs are already being sourced by metabolically cannibalizing body stores of fat and protein.

In fact, practically all of your body fat is expendable without serious adverse effects. The human body has a mechanism for us to sustain long periods of starvation — by allowing brain tissue to readily utilize the byproducts of fat and protein metabolism, transformed into glucose and ketones. The brain can derive two-thirds of its energy from ketones, synthesized mostly from fat, allowing humans to survive near-total starvation for 60 to 90 days.

Proteins, however, play a more critical role in maintaining normal body function. Their uncontrolled depletion during starvation results in loss of tissue architecture, blood elements, enzymes, and muscle mass, as well as impairment of our immune system. Unlike fat, precious body water is required to eliminate toxic byproducts of protein metabolism. So, if our bodies were only able to utilize our protein stores to maintain brain tissue, we would only survive for 20 to 30 days. In short, if you lose more than one-third to half of your total body protein, that’s all she wrote.

Starvation also depletes non-calorie essential micro-nutrients, particularly vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and vitamin B-1 (thiamine). Unlike most other animals, humans cannot synthesize vitamin C, nor store thiamine in large quantities. Vitamin C deficiency causes scurvy; thiamine deficiency causes beriberi. Without these vitamins, calorie energy utilization and critical tissue repair mechanisms fail within weeks. Despite having non-citrus food and water, more than 2 million sailors died of scurvy from the years 1500 to 1800, more than were ever claimed by naval warfare itself.

Above: If there’s an emergency evacuation and you have to flee the city on foot, at least be sure to grab a 10- to 21-day supply of glucose and multi-vitamin tablets. That’s a lot easier than toting three week’s worth of groceries.

Have a Plan

Providing even nominal amounts of glucose calories favors the metabolizing of body fat stores, rather than precious protein. As little as ¼ ounce of carbohydrates during starvation reduces protein waste by about 50 percent. This tiny bit of intervention generates roughly 8.5 ounces of metabolic water, sufficient to sustain daily requirements under limited conditions. It also conserves body water otherwise required to excrete protein waste products. In great part, this is how black bears survive their months of winter hibernation — humans just cannot do it to the same extent as bears.

What does this mean practically? Simply take two 4-gram glucose tablets per day, and you will conserve precious protein calories and body water. Take a daily multi-vitamin containing C and thiamine, and you will support your critical metabolism mechanisms.

So realistically, the prospect of long-term near-total starvation in North America is a most unlikely scenario.

And by understanding human adaptation to starvation, we can devise unconventional strategies to limit wasted protein and sustain micro-nutrients when faced with limited access to nourishment.

While attempting to escape the city on foot, a 10- to 21-day supply of glucose and multi-vitamin tablets is a lot easier to tote and maintain than the same amount of groceries. Plan on hearing your stomach complain, but answer it with the higher priority of hydration, and take your pills. Relying on stockpiled food is obviously ideal, but it's not the only way to make it through a short-term crisis without starving.

So there’s your food for thought — you don’t always need a sandwich to survive.

Tip: Storing Vitamins and Supplements

To keep vitamins and other dietary supplements at their peak potency for longer, it’s best to store them in a cool, dry place. Avoid places like the refrigerator and bathroom medicine cabinet where humidity and temperature differences can reduce their effective shelf life. Certain vitamins and supplements could require specific storage methods such as being kept out of light, so do keep them in their original packaging. Vitamins lose their strength with time, so be mindful of their expiration dates and swap them out when needed.

Review: Big Frig Denali Pro Cooler

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Rotomolded coolers are all the rage with soccer moms, frat boys, outdoor enthusiasts, and preppers alike. This is due to the fact that they are practically indestructible, keep ice cold for a long time, and can hold enough beverages to get the entire 1996 Dallas Cowboys team drunk. Hunters and fishermen love these coolers, too, since they're a great place to store meat in remote locations. From an emergency preparedness standpoint, it's wise to have a large cooler on hand to preserve food during a power outage, or transport it to your bug-out location without worrying about spoilage.

The Big Frig Denali Pro

These days, it seems like every Tom, Dick, and Harry has come out with their own version of the trendy rotomolded cooler. Names like YETI, RTIC, Engel, Orca, and Pelican have all been emblazoned on white, tan, and coral-colored coolers across the country. These range from less than $100 to more than $1,000 and come in a variety of sizes, but at the end of the day, most of them are relatively minor variations on the same product.

However, even with so many coolers to choose from, if you do your research you can find some that stand out in the crowd. We have used coolers from all of those companies we named, and while they're all respectable choices, we're always on the lookout for new and improved gear. That's when we came across a brand we hadn't heard of previously: Big Frig.

Started in 2016, Big Frig came about by selling tumblers and coolers in bulk to schools, businesses, churches, and other organizations. Once the owner realized he could sell the coolers in quantity at a lower cost than most of the companies on the market, it was gangbusters from there. Now you can find Big Frig coolers in outdoor stores across the country, as well as online and direct from Big Frig. In order to test the company's offerings from an emergency preparedness standpoint, we picked up a 70-qt Denali Pro cooler. This line of coolers comes standard with wheels, a dry goods basket, and a divider that doubles as a cutting board.

Here's a quick overview of the 70-qt Denali Pro specs:

Capacity: 70 quarts / 60 lbs of ice

External Dimensions: 33.5 by 17.5 by 18 inches

Internal Dimensions: 27 by 12 by 13.5 inches

Weight: 37 lbs

Colors: White, Sand, Desert Camo

MSRP: $375

Solving Common Cooler Problems

One of the biggest complaints of some of the larger coolers on the market is a lack of mobility. Having to carry a 100+ pound cooler filled with ice, food, and drinks to and from your campsite, boat, bonfire, or bug-out truck can be a literal pain in the back. This has been such a problem that companies have created optional wheel kits to add to coolers that lack wheels.

Having these included standard on the Big Frig cooler is a fantastic feature. But Big Frig didn't just slap some cheap plastic wheels on their cooler, it used 7.25-inch-diameter rubber tires. This gives nice shock absorption and the ability to cruise across the top of the sand at the beach, as opposed to sinking in. Non-slip rubber feet also help the cooler stay put when it's not rolling.

Another chief complaint about many coolers is how hard they can be to open. On a hot summer day the last thing you want is something standing between you and that icy cold beverage. The reason for this problem is the temperature differential between inside and outside, which causes a pressure differential. While this is more of a nuisance than anything, Big Frig went the extra mile and added a pressure release valve on the front of their coolers. Press this and the pressure inside equalizes with the outside — voila, no more fighting to get at your refreshment of choice.

Big Frig also threw in a few clever added features, such as stainless steel bottle openers integrated into the corners of the cooler, and a ruler on top for measuring fish you catch.

Insulation Test

Many of the new-style rotomolded coolers that have popped up in the past few years claim to retain ice for a week or longer. Big Frig says that the 70-quart Pro series cooler will hold 60 pounds of ice and keep it “cold for up to 10 days”. We wanted to test the insulation of this cooler in the real world, so we filled it with ice and checked it daily.

Now, a couple notes about our test. If you want to keep ice for many days, it is important to cool the foam, or core, of the cooler before you fill it with ice. This can be accomplished by leaving it outside if it is cool enough, putting it in a freezer overnight, or putting some sacrificial ice in it to cool it down. Otherwise, any residual warmth retained by the cooler itself will accelerate melting and throw off the results.

For our test, we used the sacrificial ice method and left it overnight. The next day, we filled the cooler with ice and drinks to simulate real-life usage. We opened the cooler once a day to check the ice level. The temperatures were in the low- to mid-70s in the day and 40s at night. After 3 days, the ice was obviously beginning to melt, and its level was receding.

Another key for extended ice retention is keeping the drain plug in place, assuming the cooler's contents are fully waterproof. Even though the cooler was more water than ice by day 6, the water was just above freezing and obviously much cooler than the outside air that would fill the cooler if we were to drain it.

By day 8, the ice in the cooler was fully floating in the water. This lasted for several days as the ice slowly melted in the chilly water. It took 14 days for all the ice in the cooler to melt. And even still, the water could be considered cool with a temperature around 37 degrees.

In the heat of the summer, if you were actually using the cooler and opening it many times a day, you probably wouldn't see 10+ days of ice. However, our real-world test showed that the Big Frig should easily be able to keep its contents ice cold during most camping or hunting trips and short-term emergencies.

Conclusion

Overall, the Big Frig cooler impressed us with its thoughtful features and clever design. While there’s a lot to like about it, we would love to see a better-designed handle on the side opposite the wheels, or even a secondary rigid handle. This would make transport via the wheels easier.

A way to strap the cooler down without interfering with access to its contents would be useful as well. Nobody wants their fully-loaded cooler bouncing around in the bed of their truck — or worse, tumbling out.

Even with those items we would like added, the Big Frig Denali cooler is one of our favorites in its class, and we look forward to seeing how it holds up to use in the years to come. For more information on Big Frig coolers, tumblers, and other products, visit BigFrig.com.

Pros:

  • More affordable than most similar-sized coolers
  • The inclusion of wheels is a big plus
  • Lots of standard features, such as the integrated pressure valve and bottle openers

Cons:

  • We would trade the fish measuring scale on the lid for a cup holder (or two)
  • Needs a rigid handle opposite the wheels
  • Additional tie-down points on the exterior would be nice, especially if they still allowed access to opening the lid

Hot and Bothered: Surviving Heat & Humidity

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This article originally appeared in Issue 4 of our magazine.

The summer months bring with them the warmth and humidity we’ve come to expect. Most of us look forward to being outside and enjoying the nice weather. Whether it’s that half-marathon you’d like to cross off your bucket list or maybe just a short hike, it’s no surprise people are more active in the summer months.

Hot and humid weather combined with increased activity has no doubt contributed to incidents of heat-related illnesses. Hyperthermia occurs when your body’s core temperature reaches levels greatly above normal (98.6 degrees F), which would begin at about 100 degrees F. Depending on the severity of hyperthermia, it can bring about several other critical issues, including dehydration, heat exhaustion, and heatstroke. These can occur with and without exercise — however, we’ll focus here on exercise-related heat illnesses. We’ll look at what you can do to better prepare yourself, and what to do if it’s too late. Understanding practical steps you can take is imperative to your safety.

Exertional Heatstroke

Exertional (yes, that’s a word!) heatstroke is a life-threatening illness that occurs when the body is unable to dissipate the heat it is storing and reaches critical temperatures, according to the Health Care of Homeless Persons manual. This leads to a breakdown of the body’s heat-control mechanisms.

Signs:

  • Disorientation
  • Nausea
  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Severe dizziness
  • Weakness
  • Extreme thirst
  • Disorientation
  • Convulsions
  • Coma

Predisposing Factors:

  • Obesity
  • Dehydration
  • Low physical fitness level
  • Lack of heat acclimatization

Exertional Heat Exhaustion

Exertional heat exhaustion is significant weakness that occurs when too much fluid and electrolytes are lost through sweating. This generally leads to an inability to continue exercise.

Signs:

  • Fatigue
  • Thirst
  • Malaise
  • Shortness of breath
  • Dizziness
  • Headache
  • Nausea
  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Profuse sweating

Predisposing Factors:

  • Dehydration
  • High body mass
  • Lack of heat acclimatization

Above: According to the Journal of Athletic Training, on average, your body temperature increases 0.4 degrees F for every percent of body mass lost through sweating in hot and humid environments.

Before Activity

Environment

To stay safe in hot and humid conditions, you really have to know your environment. Dry heat conditions, such as in a desert, typically have high ambient temperatures, but low humidity. Conditions like this allow for heat to dissipate effectively through evaporation. By contrast, humid weather can be especially dangerous because moisture in the air doesn’t allow sweat to evaporate well, keeping the sweat rate high without the attendant cooling effect.

Another factor to consider is time of day. Solar radiation peaks around noon, which is when sunburn occurs the quickest. The highest temperatures, however, usually occur around 3 to 4 p.m., depending on cloud cover. Wear sunscreen when appropriate, and do your best to avoid these hotter times.

Clothing Options

The clothes you wear can make a significant difference in how you tolerate the heat. Clothing creates a microenvironment between your skin and the fabric, which will affect your body’s ability to dissipate heat through sweating. Clothing that absorbs sweat will not allow that heat to be transferred away from your body, making matters worse, according to Advanced Environmental Exercise Physiology. As more heat is generated through activity, it creates a situation where heat builds up without being released.

First, limit the amount of clothing you’re wearing. More skin exposure results in better heat dissipation. Next, look for light-colored, moisture-wicking fabric. Light-colored clothes reflect more of the heat radiating from the sun, and moisture-wicking fabric allows sweat to be transferred to the material, where it will evaporate. Cotton or wool retains heat by trapping sweat in the fabric. If you only have cotton garments, look for something loose-fitting. This allows more airflow to your skin and increases evaporative heat loss.

Pre-cooling

Pre-cooling your body is another effective way to safely lengthen the amount of time it takes for your body to reach critical temperatures, according to the Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. Some options include spending some time in an air-conditioned building or vehicle, placing a cold wet towel on the back of your neck or drinking cool water. Regardless of the method, this can lengthen the time you can safely spend time in this type of environment.

Hydration

Hydration in hot and humid environments cannot be stressed enough. Since sweating is your body’s primary method of cooling, dehydration can occur during hyperthermic conditions if you aren’t regularly drinking.

An accurate way to see if you’re dehydrated is by observing your urine color. Urine that is clear may indicate you are overhydrated, while pale yellow, somewhat resembling lemonade, would represent adequate hydration. When urine color is darker, similar to apple juice, it’s a pretty good indicator that you are dehydrated, and fluid intake is highly recommended at that point. Look to drink about 16 to 20 ounces of water one-and-a-half to two hours before activity.

To prevent dehydration during activity, drink roughly 7 to 10 ounces every 20 to 30 minutes.

During Activity

Activity should also be altered in these environments to reduce the likelihood of developing heat illnesses. It’s far too common for people to wait until there are warning signs before they reduce intensity — you should try your best to avoid this situation. Reduce the intensity at which you’ll be working, especially if you aren’t accustomed to this type of weather. When possible, take short breaks to avoid reaching high temperatures.

To prevent dehydration during activity, drink roughly 7 to 10 ounces every 20 to 30 minutes. Many of the popular sports drinks contain electrolytes, which are lost in sweat. If you’re planning on being active for 75 minutes or longer, a sports drink may be beneficial. Otherwise, water will do just fine.

After Activity

It’s very important to rehydrate after being out in the heat. To figure out how much to drink, you would ideally measure your bodyweight before and after being active or in the environment. Following this guideline, drink between 20 and 24 ounces for every pound of bodyweight that you lost. Whether it’s water or a sports drink, opt for something cold to help bring down your core temperature faster.

Treatment

So, what if it’s too late? First and foremost, try to reduce as many environmental variables as possible by moving indoors or to a shaded area. The most effective cooling method is immersion in cool water, but not cold water. Water that is too cold can cause shock. The problem is that it’s not practical for most people. A more realistic option would be placing cold wet towels on the back of your neck, splashing cold water on your body, or the use of fans to circulate air toward you. If symptoms are severe, such as in the case of exertional heatstroke, medical assistance is highly recommended to quickly replace the lost fluids and reduce temperatures.

Heat can create a very dangerous situation if you’re not ready. Know the environment, plan accordingly, and be aware of the warning signs. Adequate preparation makes all the difference — sometimes between life and death.

About the Author

Ryne Gioviano, M.S.Ed., NSCA-CPT is the owner of Achieve Personal Training & Lifestyle Design. He holds a master’s degree in exercise physiology and is a certified personal trainer through the National Strength and Conditioning Association. For more information, visit www.achieve-personaltraining.com. You can find Ryne on Twitter and Instagram at @RGioviano.

Video: Building an Effective Signal Fire

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As survivalists, it's easy to fall victim to our own pride. We all like to think we'll be able to survive any disaster on our own, using the experience, knowledge, and gear we possess. But there may come a day when it's necessary to call for help, and if that day comes, you'll need to know how to do so effectively. In previous articles, we've discussed a variety of emergency signals, including DIY noisemakers, NATO panel signals, and international ground-to-air signal code — each of these can clearly indicate your position when you need help.

One of the most widely-known improvised emergency beacons is a large pillar of smoke from a signal fire. You're probably aware that throwing leafy green branches onto a fire is a quick way to produce white smoke, but it's not necessarily that simple. If you put too many of these branches on at once or toss them on haphazardly, you'll extinguish the fire along with your hopes of rescue. It's essential to plan your signal fire ahead of time, and prepare it to produce smoke at a moment's notice.

The video below from YouTuber Mr. Baron shows how to convert an extremely simple tipi-style fire into a signal fire by perching pine branches on top of the structure. This design allows plenty of airflow on the sides of the fire, ensuring it can burn efficiently.

Survival Russia shows another method that incorporates an elevated platform into the middle of the tipi. The green branches are then hung along the sides like shingles on an improvised shelter, while gaps in the base platform provide airflow to feed the fire. This configuration has some advantages, such as protecting the underlying tinder from wind, rain, and moisture on the ground.

Regardless of the method you use, it's critical to remember that if you want to make the most of your signal fire, you shouldn't just throw a few fronds onto your existing campfire. You may only have one shot at signaling to a nearby boat or aircraft, and as always, preparation will improve your chances of success.