Morse Code: Dits, Dahs, Dots, and Dashes

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This article originally appeared in Issue 3 of our magazine.

Long before the epidemic of tweeting duck-faced selfies with the Prime Minister of Denmark or posting your latest pasta selection at Olive Garden, Sam Morse (with some help from Joe Henry) was posting status updates to his BFFs as early as 1836. This partnership of a struggling artist and nerdy physicist would match letters of the alphabet to the varying durations between switching an electric current on and off. What they created was a binary encrypted alphanumeric code that could be just as easily transmitted visually, sonically, or tactilely. That’s tech talk for a system of “dots” and “dashes” that represent numbers and letters.

Unless you’re a radio operator, Eagle Scout, or grew up in a telegraph office, your exposure to Morse code has probably been limited to RUSH pounding out the call letters for the Toronto Airport (if you’re not familiar, search YouTube for “YYZ”). It’s been a while since Morse code revolutionized long-distance communication and has since fallen to the wayside, replaced by more modern methods of communication, including smartphones, text messages, and email.

Why should anyone even learn, much less take time to master, such an antiquated system? Wouldn’t it be like learning conversational Latin … “fun” to learn, but something you won’t ever have a use for? But it’s precisely the barebones low-tech/no-tech nature of Morse code that makes it an essential skill to hone when preparing for WTSHTF. Morse code adapts to multiple forms of communication easily and can be used visually with a flashlight, a mirror reflecting sunlight, by blinking one’s eyes (see side bar), or even plainly drawn out as a pictograph of dots and dashes. Audibly, Morse code can be utilized by anything that makes noise. Banging on a pipe with a chunk of concrete or using the beeping feature on some two-way radios comes to mind.

Deciphering the Code

Morse code chart dit dah dot dash communication shtf survival prepping 1

At first glance it looks as if ol’ Sammy put a bunch of dots and dashes in a hat and randomly assigned them to letters wherever he felt like it. Believe it or not, there’s a method to his madness. Morse did some studying and discovered that (as any Wheel of Fortune fan knows) T and E are the most frequently used letters in the English language. He assigned those the simplest code: a single dash or “–” for T and a single dot or “•” for E. From there the letters were assigned a code. In theory, the more frequently the letter is used, the more memorable the associated dots and dashes, vocalized as dits for dots and dahs for dashes.

How we represent the dots and dashes in relation to each other is also very specific. The timing of the Morse code sequencing uses the “dot” as its basic unit. The dot is of an arbitrary duration with everything else being relative to that common unit. For example: The dash is three dots long. The spacing between elements of the same letter is one dot. The space between letters is three dots, and the space between words is seven dots.

Antique Telegraph Machine

How do you learn Morse code? The same way you get to Carnegie Hall. PRACTICE. There are various mnemonic devices to help you remember what combinations of dots and dashes go with which letters, but nothing will be a substitute for rolling up your sleeves and repeatedly going over the code. It may help to say the sequence out loud, but instead of saying “dot” and “dash,” say “dit” and “dah” since that more closely represents what you’ll hear over a receiver. For example, the sequence for S when written out is “• • •,” but when said out loud is “dit dit dit.”

If the time ever comes where you find yourself banging on a pipe or cavern wall to get lifesaving communications out to rescuers, you’ll come to appreciate this old-fashioned way of texting.

Above: Here’s an easy learning tree from LearnMorseCode.com. As you move from the start and move down the tree, every move left is a dah (dash) and every move right is a dit (dot). For example, to get the code for O you move from the start position to the T (dah) to the M (dah, dah) and land on O (dah, dah, dah). Now something more complicated, the letter P: right to E ( • ), left to A ( • – ), left to W ( • – – ), and right to P ( • – – • ). Give it a try; figure out the dits and dahs to spell out your favorite four-letter word.

Language of Morse Code

Because spelling out sentences letter by letter in the form of dots and dashes can get ridiculously long, there are a few forms of Morse code shorthand that have been developed over the years. The most well known is the distress signal, SOS (••• ––– •••).

SOS is a form of “prosign.” Prosigns are two- or three-letter designations that indicate Morse code formatting and signal procedure and not actual text. They are sent without a space between the two letters. So a prosign of SN (••• –•) means “understood” and CT (–•–• –) means “commencing transmission.”

Another form of Morse code shorthand is called “Morse code abbreviations” and it replaces longer words with one- to four-letter combinations. 73 (––••• •••––) means “best regards,” B4 (–••• ••••–) represents “before,” TNX (– –• –••–) means “thanks,” and 88 (–––•• –––••) stands for “love and kisses.” Charts covering both forms as well as others can be found on the worldwide interwebs.

Practice On Your Smartphone

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There are also many apps for Android and iPhone that make practicing very easy and give you immediate feedback and correction. In our opinion, the free apps are just as good as the ones for which you’ll spend a few bucks. A few of the ones we tested and found to be worth of checking out are:

iPhone

  • Learn Morse Code — RosMedia (free)
  • Morse Code Driller — Kevin Neelands (free)
  • Study Morse Code — Ichiban Mobile (free)

Android

  • Morse Code Trainer — Todd Anderson (free)
  • Morse Code Toolbox — Felix Innovation (free)
  • Morse Audio Trainer — MaxiStar (free)

Morse Code in the Real World

One of the most compelling stories of Morse code in real-world use is the story of Jeremiah Andrew Denton Jr. Mr. Denton is a retired United States Navy rear admiral, naval aviator, and a former Republican U.S. senator for the state of Alabama. He was held captive in Vietnam for eight years, more than half of which were spent in solitary confinement.

In 1966, North Vietnamese officials aired a television interview with Mr. Denton as an obvious propaganda ploy. When asked how he was being treated, Mr. Denton stated that he was getting “adequate food” and “medical attention when needed,” but his eyes told a different story. During the interview Mr. Denton can be seen blinking the word “TORTURE” in Morse code, confirming to American Intelligence that U.S. military personnel being held as POWs in North Vietnam were indeed being subjected to physical abuse and torture. Learn more about this great American in our previous web-exclusive article on Morse Code.

A Prepper’s Guide to Shelf Life & Expiration Management

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No one has to tell you that being able to successfully execute your SHTF plan means being organized down to the last detail. We go to great lengths to make sure we have everything we’ll need to get us through whatever crisis comes our way. We all know that the kits, bags, gadgets, and food are of no use if we can’t find them or if they’ve outlived their usefulness. So, we fold, roll, and stack our goodies and put them in an accessible place where they’ll remain good to go until SHTF.

Sometimes, though, out of sight can also mean out of mind. Some of us, out of habit, take for granted that our bug-out bag and supplies will always be at the ready. Nothing could be further from the truth. Unless your emergency supply consists entirely of nuclear war-resistant Twinkies, a large portion of it has limited shelf life. Some things last longer than others, but eventually everything comes to the end of its edible, usable, and/or effective life. Foodstuffs, batteries, medication and, yes, even water go stale (the latter mostly due to its packaging).

Survival food canned corn

The question then becomes how do we manage our stash so that when there is a crisis event, we’re not getting the trots from noshing on canned veggies whose best days were when the war was cold and Carrie Fisher was hot.

We assume you have a safe, dry place to store everything, and it won’t be piled up in the corner of some junk closet. There are many different storage racks, systems, and DIY projects to store and organize everything, but that’s an entirely different discussion. We’re focusing on managing all those “best by,” “sell by,” and “use before” dates.

If you want to see some pretty efficient shelf life management systems, stroll down to your local BigBuy SuperMegaloMart. These guys live and die by making sure the older stuff goes out and that there’s fresher stuff backing it up. They’ve got it down to a science, literally! Seriously, guys have degrees in that stuff.

Degree? We don’t need no stinking degree! All we need to do is reverse engineer what we see at Wally World.

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Nothing is Random

Organize your supplies according to their use and what they can be used with. It’s no use to arrange everything alphabetically if you end up having sugar right next to the spaghetti. Instead, arrange it with the flour and other baking goods — boom, aisle 15 at your fingertips. Breakfast bars and cereal pair well, all the medical supplies get grouped together, and so on. You should also maintain a category for stuff you plan on using for barter and trade. If you have a large SHTF food supply you may even want to label the locations of your categories, like the aisles at the market.

Old Guys to the Front

Within your organized groups you’ll want to put the items closest to their expiration where you can use them first. Duh, right? But here’s the tricky part — getting line of sight to pending shelf death well before it happens. How many times have you found and tossed cans that have expiration dates with a year starting with 200X?

This technique is often referred to as FIFO, or First In First Out — refer to our previous article for more info.

Rolling can racks, such as this one from Amazon.com, make FIFO organization easier.

Rolling can racks, such as this one from Amazon.com, make FIFO organization easier.

Write it Down

A simple inventory management and expiration date spreadsheet can help you do your part to keep all those less-than-shelf-stable sundries from hitting the landfill. It doesn’t have to look like Apple’s financial prospectus. Simple is better. A column for what it is, one for how much of it you have, one for where it is, and another for the month of the oldest item’s pending demise. Order the list with the items closest to expiration on the top. Don’t forget to include all the items in your bug-out and return-to-home bags.

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All that’s left is to get in the habit of regularly checking the list. You want to have plenty of time to make sure the items with one foot in the grave are taken care of. Mark your calendar, set an alarm, or pick some sort of semiannual event (daylight saving changeovers are handy) that will serve as a reminder to check the list and do it.

Use it or Lose it

A lot of us get in the mindset that our emergency food supply should never be touched except in an emergency. True, but as items reach the end of their lifespan, they should make their way into the pantry for everyday use. If you can’t use it before it expires, consider donating it to a food bank. Just make sure you replace everything with fresher items that … you guessed it … go to the back and everything else moves forward. Adjust your spreadsheet as necessary.

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Managing your inventory needn’t be a complicated or herculean task, but it does take some discipline. Then again, so does making sure you’re prepared for whatever nature or man throws your way.

Shelf Life: A Quick Reference Guide

<5 Years – These are common categories of emergency supplies with a finite shelf life; about five years or less depending on the item and condition of storage:

  • Cheese/soy storable dairy, including powdered eggs
  • Canned foods (commercial or self-canned)
  • Baking goods (sugar, flour, grains)
  • Condiments, peanut butter, jams, and jellies
  • Pastas, grains (such as rice), and legumes (such as beans)
  • Pharmaceuticals/medicines
  • Sports drinks/soda/non-alcoholic and some alcoholic beverages

>5 Years – Items with longer-term effective dates; many are five years and beyond, depending on item and condition of storage:

  • Batteries
  • First-aid supplies
  • Fuel
  • MRE, dehydrated, and freeze-dried foods
  • Seeds, fertilizers, and items for self–sustainability
  • Some alcoholic beverages
  • Ammo
  • Candles
  • Water purification systems

Use By, Sell By, Best Before… What Do They Mean?

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“Sell By”

This date has nothing to with the spoilage of an item, and everything to do with how long the seller wants it to stay on the shelf. It’s not mandatory to label items with a “sell by” date. That being said, if you want the best of what’s on the shelf (freshness, taste, brand-consistent quality) and to avoid the one that’s been looking for a home the longest, reach to the back.

“Best By”

This too has nothing to with the shelf stability or safety of an item. This is kind of like the manufacturer’s booty-covering move, telling you how long they feel the quality of their product is at its peak. In some cases there should be a “better if used after” date — think wine, cheese, bourbon, even sour cream can get better with time (gets a little more tangy). Isn’t sour cream, by definition, cream that’s spoiled?

“Guaranteed Fresh Date”

You’ll find this in that piece of heaven we call the bakery department. Items will be edible long after this date, but only some wild wolf-raised heathen would even consider eating a lovingly made double-stuffed chocolate chip cookie a whole 24 hours after it first slid down the wax paper in its fluorescently lit, slightly dusty, 1970-ish display case.

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“Use By”

Again, this date has little to do with the safety or lifespan of the product. It’s just another way for the manufacturer to suggest when they think it’ll taste better. Seems like a marketing scam to get you to replace perfectly good stuff you forgot to use.

“Expires After” AKA “Effective Until”

This is the big one! You’ll most likely find this on pharmaceuticals. Does it mean if you eat a Flintstone chewable from the Bush administration you’ll die some horrible Ebola-like death? Probably not. In 1979, the U.S. government required drug companies to stamp an expiration date on their products. It is what the drug company has determined to be the lifespan of the drug’s full potency, not the point at which it’s no longer effective. In fact, the FDA did a study and found 90 out of 100 prescription and OTC drugs they tested were perfectly good to use even after 15 years. With the exception of nitroglycerin, insulin, and liquid antibiotics, medical authorities say most drugs maintain effectiveness for years.

Smells like another marketing ploy to get us to throw out perfectly good feel-good pills and buy the new “feel better because they’re fresher” pills. Caveat: you should store medications in a cool, dry place out of the sunlight to extend effective dates. Do not use medicine that requires refrigeration after it’s warmed to room temperature (talk to your local pharmacist).

So how do we really know when something actually has gone bad? The “Honey, smell this” test is a tried-and-true method. If it smells funky, doesn’t look right, has a furry layer of mold, or your cat just died after accidentally eating it, exercise your good judgment. When in doubt, toss it out.

Video: Russian Bushcrafter’s Log Cabin Build

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Max Egorov considers himself to be a regular guy — he's not a professional carpenter, builder, or survival instructor. In fact, he's actually a lawyer from St. Petersburg, Russia. Each year, he takes one month off work to trek into the remote forest and work on his hobby of bushcraft projects. He also takes the time to film these projects, and uploads them to his YouTube channel Advoko Makes. Most of Max's content has been created in his native language, but he has been working to provide English-language voiceovers for these videos so more people can learn from them.

Advoko Makes Russian bushcraft log cabin DIY project woodworking survival 5

We've previously written about Max's videos on fire-carved log furniture and vertically-grilling shish kabobs inside a Swedish torch. His latest project is a much larger undertaking — building a custom log cabin from scratch with basic tools. As with his other videos, he's doing all the work solo, including cutting and moving massive fallen logs. That's actually the subject of the first video in his series:

The A-frame device he creates to move these 1,000-pound logs over rough terrain is pretty clever. And although he uses a chainsaw to speed up the work, most of the rest of the cutting is done with hand tools such as an axe, chisel, and adze.

Advoko Makes Russian bushcraft log cabin DIY project woodworking survival 4

In the second part of the series, he processes these logs by cutting large copes in each end and a flat notch along the length. Moss is added to the notches for insulation, and pegs are hammered into holes at the joints to hold the logs in place.

The third part of the series shows how Max built doors in each end of the cabin, allowing for easier access and a means of escape if a bear attempts to break into his cabin during the night. Jack studs are shaped from logs and erected vertically, using a pendulum on a string to ensure they're level. A gable at the top of the door holds the jack studs together.

In the fourth and latest part of the series, Max adds more gables to accommodate for the slope of the roof, and discusses some of the hiccups he encountered during this process.

This is an ongoing project, so we plan to keep an eye on the progress. If you'd like to see more of Max's log cabin videos when they're released, you can do so through this playlist.

Archery 101: An Overview of Survival Bows & Arrows

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This article originally appeared in Issue 3 of our magazine.

Photography by Michael Grey and Courtesy of AMC

Long before gunpowder forever changed the way man waged war and killed food, a pointy stick propelled down range was the pinnacle of ballistic technology. For tens of thousands of years, nations were won and game taken down using a simple bow and arrow. With all the different shotguns, rifles, and pistols to choose from, does a limited range, non-concealable, and low-power weapon have a place in your TEOTWAWKI game plan? The answer is “Yes” — for many reasons.

Photo Credit: Gene Page/AMC

Photo Credit: Gene Page/AMC

If you’re one of the many who enjoy watching Southerners being chased around Atlanta by the undead, you’ll know that a bow and arrow is a must-have badass weapon in a post SHTF world. Don’t get me wrong, guns have their rightful place in these scenarios too. But there are those rare occasions in which your favorite heater may not be the best choice of weaponry. Whether you need to be completely silent (even a gun with the best sound suppressor on it still makes a noise), have no access to ammo, or need to send a line over a high tree limb, it is nice to have a tool available to do all those things and more.

Unless you’re a bow hunter, way into The Hunger Games or a big Geena Davis fan, chances are you’ll need to brush up a little on your archery skills. For most of us, our first and maybe only exposure to archery was in summer camp, and the skills we learned then have fallen to the wayside along with playing tetherball. So where do we start our exploration into the ancient art of the curved stick and feathered twig?

Archers to the Line, Nock Your Arrows

First, let’s clear the waters. We’re in no way implying that a bow and arrow could take the place of your direct-impingement, multi-railed lead thrower. Given the choice of only carrying one weapon, a 1911 or a crossbow, we’d bet good money that all of us would choose the pistol. However, one of the first things we learn is that in order to survive and thrive, you first need a plan, then a backup plan, and finally a backup for your backup. Having access to a bow and some well-fletched arrows is a great alternative means of hunting and defense.

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Secondly let’s not get bogged down in the pros and cons of archery. We’ve already established that most would readily reach for a firearm before a bow. Instead let’s explore the upside of knowing the methods and means of sending projectiles down range without a bang. And why a bow, in whatever configuration you choose, should have a place in your arsenal.

Archery is a good way to get kids involved in preparation and planning. Everyone should know how to shoot a gun, but sometimes there isn’t always an easy way to get the kids the range time they need. With bows coming in different lengths and draw weights, kids have easy, inexpensive access to learning how to contribute to the defense or the hunting needs of your family. As a bonus, it’s a great bonding experience when you can calmly converse with and teach your kids without having to yell through ear protection.

As with any weapon system, to effectively use a bow and arrow you need to commit to properly learning the techniques and equipment options. You don’t need to be William Tell or Robin Hood to consider having a bow in your arsenal. You should, however, practice until you are comfortably proficient. One of the advantages of practicing archery is that it can be done in suburban or urban surroundings without drawing attention to yourself. With a gun, it’s not so easy to run out to the backyard or garage and start practicing, especially if you’re in more dense living conditions — in fact, in many jurisdictions it would be illegal.

Stealth

The bow and arrow was the first stealth weapon system (the jawbone of an ass is hardly a weapon system). There are many potential situations in which you might need to put down a threat or your next meal without the percussive report of a firearm. This is especially true in a suburban or urban setting where you would want to maintain a low sonic profile and not draw attention to yourself, whether defending your home ground or hunting for game near your base camp.

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These are real world, plausible scenarios. There are plenty of real world SHTF threats to prepare for that have nothing to do with reanimated corpses trying to devour you. For example, everything has been off grid for an extended period of time and your food supplies are depleted; you’re in the local park’s nature trail looking for food. Elsewhere there are whole groups of starving, angry, unprepared, and less self-sufficient people waiting for food to come to them. A gunshot could bring the attention of those who would be less than polite in taking what you worked so hard to stalk (think kids fighting over the last cookie and multiply that times the population of your town). A stealthy takedown would ensure your return to your base camp with dinner.

Bow of All Trades

The bow is also a versatile tool that can be used for things other than hunting and defense. Takedown recurve bows, like the industry-leading Hoyt Buffalo, break down into pieces that can be easily put in a pack and carried more easily than a cumbersome longbow or compound bow (see “Types of Bows” below).

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Above: Crossbows use bolts (bottom) while bows use arrows (top). Bolts and arrows feature different flight characteristics and vary in overall size and weight. Many variations of each are available to suit a variety of uses. 

A bow and flaming arrow was the first flamethrower. There may be times when you want to reach way out and set something on fire, but a flaming arrow shot high in the air can also be a great way to signal others. Of course, remember what comes up must come down, and small flames tend to create bigger flames. You can also attach a string to an arrow and shoot it over a high limb or across a gap anytime you find yourself needing to get a rope out farther than you can throw it.

Bows can be configured in many different ways and are adaptable to a wide variety of purposes. Debate always rages as to which type of bow is best suited for SHTF. It’s like debating which calibers are best; there are compelling arguments for and against each choice. Ultimately it’s a personal preference depending on what you’re comfortable with and what you intend to use it for.

Types Of Bows

Longbow

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The oldest, longest used and simplest of the bow types. A long semi-flexible plank of wood is put under tension by a length of string. As the bowstring is drawn back, the bow is put under increased tension. When the string is let go the release of tension propels the arrow.

Recurve

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An upgrade to the longbow, the recurve has the basic shape of the longbow, but curls (recurves) the tips in the opposite direction. As the bow is put under tension not only does the bow itself bend, but the recurved tips also straighten out. When released, the bow goes back to its original state with extra oomph imparted to the arrow as the recurved tips return to their original state.

Takedown Recurve

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This bow is born for those preparing for crisis events. The best of the bunch and our recommendation is the Hoyt Buffalo. It breaks down into three parts (plus the string) that can easily be packed away and transported more discreetly than a traditional recurve or longbow. Takedown bows have the advantage of having interchangeable limbs, great for kids (or adults) progressing in skill level.

Compound

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The compound bow is the high-tech Formula 1 solution to an ancient design, using cams and pulleys to increase arrow speed while making it easier to draw. There are also more customizable accessories and accouterments that make the compound bow more accurate than its forefathers. Stabilizers, fiber-optic sights, string and limb silencers all combine to increase accuracy and ease of use. The downside, like any high-performance tool, is that it needs regular tuning. But with some education and guidance you needn’t be tethered to your local pro shop for service.

Crossbow

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If you’re used to rifles and don’t want to make a big departure, the crossbow may fit your needs. The crossbow, when cocked, is at much higher tension than any of the other types of bows, sending bolts down range at speeds up to 450 fps. This is easily the most lethal of the bunch. One of the coolest developments in crossbows uses the lower receiver of an AR-15 and marries it to a long, high-tension crossbow “upper.” The result is a long-distance “sniper” crossbow. We’re not sure about making a non-regulated weapon like a crossbow into a regulated one by attaching it to an actual lower receiver, but it is a pretty neat system.

Sling Bow

Basic CMYK

The new kid on the block and arguably the most fun — think of it as the love child of a sling shot and recurve bow. It’s easily the most portable of all the options, possibly even more than the takedown recurve. Better suited for CQB and taking down small game, the sling bow uses industrial elastic to send a wide variety of arrows down range. The three-piece takedown arrows are by far the most packable and practical. We like the Montie Gear Tactical / Modular Slingshot fitted with a whisker biscuit arrow rest and three-dot sight — it is the pinnacle of sling bow design and well worth the price tag.

The Cost Factor

Perhaps the most compelling reason for adding a bow to your stable of weaponry is the cost factor. Unlike a gun, you can readily find simple materials to make your own bow and some arrows (check out the video below). The homemade stuff is certainly not as good as the name-brand gear, but when constructed well, it can be an effective, make-do solution.

The point is that you needn’t run out and spend thousands of dollars on the latest over-hyped stick slinger. If you love archery and bow hunting, by all means get the latest and greatest top-of-the-line gear. But just remember that whole nations were conquered and millions of deer made into supper long before there were skeletonized risers, unobtainium limbs, and strings made from precious metals.

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Surfing Craigslist turns up some great deals on models that were once the latest craze. My 15-year-old Craigslist find (seen above) doesn’t look slick, but it gets the job done, and none of the deer it’s taken down cared how old the bow is. If you’re looking to be the first one who plucks your bow’s strings, manufacturers such as Hoyt offer high-quality but inexpensive bows in every category.

There’s no need to hang up the ol’ Winchester and run out to start developing Apache-like skills. But there’s no doubt that the bow has a place in your toolbox. Think of it like this — even if you have a Phillips head screwdriver that handles most of your jobs, there are times when the situation calls for a flathead.

Types of Arrowheads

One of the most compelling reasons to include bow and arrows in your TEOTWAWKI plan is the flexibility of using interchangeable arrowheads. Below is a rundown on arrowhead types:

Bullet

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The simplest and least intimidating of the group. Used for target practice and occasionally small game (very small and frail game).

Blunt

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A flat or bulbous tip made of metal, rubber or plastic. Used for knocking the crap out of small game that would be torn apart by other types.

Snare

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This arrowhead screams, “to hell with aerodynamics.” Loops at the edge of the arrowhead entangle a bird’s wings to bring them down.

Field

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A little bit more aggressive tip used mostly for target shooting and small game.

Judo

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The most, steam-punk, Whiskey Tango Foxtrot-looking of the bunch. Spring activated arms catch leaves and grass so the arrow doesn’t get lost by burying itself in the under brush or embedding itself in soft ground. Used for “stump” shooting small game.

Fish

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Pretty self explanatory as to its use. Spring-loaded barbs secure the fish as the arrow is reeled in using an attached string.

Broadhead

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The most aggressive and “high-tech” of the group. Razor-sharp blades tear through the hide of big game. Size and number of blades vary. A variation of this type of arrowhead employs spinning blades that act as a guillotine, painlessly taking down gobblers and other fowl. Broadheads are the tip to use for both defense and bringing dinner home.

Legal & Financial Reconstruction After a Disaster

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This article originally appeared in Issue 3 of our magazine.

DISCLAIMER: The information provided is for illustration purposes only, and is not, nor is it intended to provide, legal and/or financial advice. The reader should consult with an appropriate professional regarding their individual situation. Any use of the information contained in this article shall be solely at the reader’s risk.

You’ve weathered the storm and your family is safe. But, as you emerge from the rubble of what used to be your home, the full extent of the devastation becomes painfully obvious — your house is in ruins, and your personal belongings are scattered as far as the eye can see. Planning and preparation really made a difference in the outcome of this scenario — your food, water, first-aid, and self-defense capabilities are all intact. But, as the days go by, survival efforts taper off and reconstruction begins.

Despite all your excellent preparations and planning, reconstruction will be extremely difficult and time consuming. There are insurance claims to be filed and repairs to be made, but life goes on. In the coming days you’ll need to contact your bank, your creditors, and of course, your insurance company. You start looking for your homeowner’s, auto, and flood insurance papers, your bank records, receipts, and tax returns, but, the last time you saw any of these documents, they were in a box in the second drawer of your bedroom dresser, underneath your ratty old socks. Unfortunately, that room — and its contents — are long gone. What now? Where do you begin?

Ownership documents, wills, and court papers are all important. If lost or damaged, many of these documents are difficult and time consuming to replace.

Ownership documents, wills, and court papers are all important. If lost or damaged, many of these documents are...

Chasing Paper

From the moment we’re born, we begin to create a paper trail that stays with us until the day we die. That may be quite scary, but like it or not, we’re all linked to a vast collection of documents and records that chronicle our legal and financial lives. And while getting back to normal after a disaster is never easy, without the proper documentation and information, legal and financial reconstruction becomes an incredibly difficult process. Maintaining careful records and securing multiple copies of those all-important documents is an oft neglected but crucial aspect of any viable survival plan.

Prepare Now

As with so many things, the best time to protect your records and documents is before something goes wrong. Here are 10 easy and inexpensive ways to help you organize and secure your most important documents and information.

Flash drives are small, portable, and inexpensive — they can store files, images and information.

Flash drives are small, portable, and inexpensive — they can store files, images and information.

1. Identify and organize: The first step is to identify and organize all your documents. Once you gather everything in one location, the rest becomes far easier.

2. Prioritize: Not all documents are equally important. Your child’s second grade report card or sappy love letters from your college sweetheart may have sentimental value, but it’s not on the same level as a bearer bond, stock certificate, last will and testament, or a birth, death, or marriage certificate. You can still safeguard the report card, but prioritize your efforts.

3. Make a list and record important details: After you have identified, organized, and prioritized, it’s time to make a list. Your list/inventory should describe the document(s), dates, numbers, details, legal descriptions, and so forth. This list will serve as a handy reference and inventory for your hardcopies and/or digital files.

Filing

4. Maintain a hardcopy: Many of us have gone digital. From photographs to personal and business records, digital is great. But what happens when the power is out or when no computer is available? Always keep a hardcopy of the most important documents and records. While a copy will not always be accepted in place of the original, the copy will contain valuable information that will be extremely useful in many situations. And it’s ultimately better than having a digital copy that you can’t access.

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Above: Maintain physical and digital copies of important documents such as your driver’s license, vehicle insurance card and registration, concealed carry permit, passport, birth certificate, social security card, and health insurance card for safe keeping.

5. Make electronic backups: Scan all important documents and records and store those files on several different devices. Always use encryption software and passwords to secure your data. Consider an online backup service — for about $5 a month many of these services offer an unlimited amount of storage space and provide you with 24/7 access to your files from anywhere in the world. But, remember you’ll still need a computer and an Internet connection to access them.

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6. Fireproof storage at home: Invest in a fireproof safe or file cabinet for your home. Nothing is ever guaranteed, but it sure beats using that old shoebox sitting in the closet under grandma’s hand-knitted sweater.

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7. Use a safe-deposit box: Hollywood movies aside, this is still the most secure place to secure valuables. But if a disaster takes out your local bank, you may still have a problem. One possible solution may be to store the originals at the bank and keep copies as a backup.

8. Portable grab-and-go storage: A large (e.g. 1TB) external USB portable drive has the capacity to back up all the data from a typical computer with capacity to spare. These drives are inexpensive, easy to use, and highly portable. Be sure to protect the data with a secure password. For a secure password, include a combination of no fewer than 15 upper and lower case letters, numbers, and symbols.

A portable hard drive is a simple way to back up an entire computer. In an emergency, just grab it and go.

A portable hard drive is a simple way to back up an entire computer. In an emergency, just grab it and go.

9. Have an alternate “safe place”: Maintain a copy of your most important documents at an alternate location with your accountant, attorney, or trusted friend or relative. Again, secure the data with a password, and if possible keep it in a lockable, portable fire-resistant case. It is highly unlikely that a crisis will affect both your primary and alternate locations at the same time.

10. The Bug-Out-Bag (BOB): In the event of a sudden and unexpected crisis, you may have to grab your BOB and go. Maintain a hardcopy of the following documents in your BOB: driver’s license, vehicle insurance card and registration, concealed carry permit, passport, birth certificate for minor children, social security card, health insurance card, banking, financial, and home insurance documents, and credit and debit card information. Secure the hardcopies in a sealed Mylar or plastic bag. There is risk associated with keeping hard copies of these important documents in a BOB, but each individual must weigh that risk against the potential rewards. Consider keeping a password-protected USB flash drive with scanned copies of all your files and records in a watertight match case.

Above: Use a plastic or aluminum watertight match case to store and protect your USB flash drive. Use 1-gallon (10×14-inch) Mylar bags to store copies of documents. Once sealed, the Mylar bags will keep the elements out and your documents safe.

Conclusion

Whether it’s a natural or man-made disaster, house fire, burglary, or maybe just an unexpected bug-out scenario, important legal and financial documents need to be protected and available to us. While we don’t have any control over these unfortunate events, we can certainly take reasonable precautions to safeguard our documents and records — the time to do so is now. Stay safe and be prepared.

About The Author

Richard Duarte is a practicing attorney and a survival and firearms enthusiast; he currently teaches and consults in the areas of urban survival planning and preparation. He is the author of Surviving Doomsday – a Guide for Surviving an Urban Disaster. For the latest news and updates, connect with Richard at www.quickstartsurvival.com.

Gear Up Issue 30

Written by

Zenbivy Bed

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Temperature Rating
23 degrees F (EN Lower Limit)

MSRP
$269

URL
zenbivy.com

Notes
The makers of the Zenbivy Bed call it the “world’s first freestyle sleeping bag.” Initially it might seem like a mummy-style bag, but it’s far less restrictive and more innovative. It consists of a quilt, hood, and fitted sheet that can be zipped together in various ways, allowing you to lie on your back, sides, or stomach and with your arms or legs in or out. The convertible footbox is easy to adjust, while on the opposite end the hood’s pocket can house a phone, watch, or flashlight. It features YKK zippers, 700 fill-power duck down, and a 20-
denier nylon taffeta shell with durable water repellent. The Zenbivy Bed is compatible with the Zenbivy Pillow (sold separately for $49) and either a tapered or a rectangular mattress (not included). A long version of the Zenbivy Bed is also available for an additional $10.

Gregory Salvo 18 Backpack

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Colors
Smoke Blue, Tango Red

MSRP
$100

URL
gregorypacks.com

Notes
The Salvo 18 is an ideal starting point for crafting a get-home bag. This daypack is compact and lightweight at less than 2 pounds, but rugged enough to be used on trail runs, fast hikes, or cold-weather workouts. Its biggest advantage is the low-profile VaporSpan suspension system, which provides load support while allowing maximum airflow between your back and the pack. With a capacity of 18 liters (1,098 cubic inches), the Salvo is packed (pun intended!) with features: internal mesh pocket with key clip, internal sleeve for a hydration bladder, padded and zippered section for smartphone or other electronics, three mesh pockets for water bottles or other gear, cushiony shoulder straps with EVA foam and ventilation, and much more. This is a small backpack with big benefits.

Kelty Low-Love Seat

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Colors
Smoke, Tundra

MSRP
$100

URL
kelty.com

Notes
When it’s time to bug out, a folding chair is certainly not the first item you’ll grab. But the Low-Love Seat from Kelty is an awesome creature comfort if you’re camping, have cargo space in your off-road rig, or plan to spend the day at the beach this spring (you know, when it’s no longer freeze-your-eyelids-shut cold). With a solid steel frame and quilted 600-denier polyester, this portable seat has a weight capacity of 500 pounds — more than enough for you and your spouse. Plus, it has two insulated adjustable cup holders and a slightly reclined design for added comfort. Just note that there’s a price to pay for being able to snuggle comfortably by the campfire: This Kelty chair is 15 pounds and — as its awkwardly hyphenated name denotes — has a ride height of just 13.5 inches. So, tall folks might find it a tad short.

Prometheus Design Werx Beast Hoodie

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Colors
Darker Earth, Wilding Gray

MSRP
$198

URL
prometheusdesignwerx.com

Notes
The Beast Hoodie is a fierce form of weather protection. This breathable full-zip hoodie is made from Polartec ThermalPro fleece, making it a warm jacket for fall and spring and a superior mid-layer for winter. But what we love the most is the high loft fleece, which is a throwback to original pile fleece jackets that first hit mountaineering circles back in the late 1970s — that, and the fact that the Darker Earth version reminds us of Chewbecca. But its distinct look isn’t just for show. The lofted properties trap warm air, especially when worn under an outer shell. This mid-layer’s other features include a mini bill on the hoodie, full-length wind-flap, zippered sleeve and hand pockets, and draft-resistant structured thumbhole cuffs, and much more.

LOWA San Diego GTX Surround Lo

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Sizes
Men’s and Women’s in various sizes

MSRP
$210

URL
lowaboots.com

Notes
Obviously, these aren’t winter boots. But for those already prepping for spring or who live in warmer climes where snow rarely falls, the San Diego GTX Surround Lo are a fantastic candidate for your grayman (or graywoman) outfit. After all, not every disaster requires you to wear camo-pattern tactical boots. Sometimes, it’s more advantageous to blend in. These LOWA shoes will certainly let you do that, but also let you haul ass through mild hiking trails if you need to GTFO. The upper is made up of a comfortable mix of nubuck, fabric, and split leather, while the TPU outsole is both featherweight and quite sturdy. And as the name implies, they feature Gore-Tex Surround technology that allows for 360 degrees of waterproofing yet still allow your foot to breathe. So while you probably don’t want to use them for sledding, these kicks will certainly keep your socks dry in rain and light snow.

Daisy Outdoor Products Model 599

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Weight
7.1 pounds

MSRP
$595

URL
daisy.com

Notes
If it’s a postapocalyptic scenario, you probably don’t want to be too trigger happy with your powder-burning guns. The need to conserve ammunition will be at an all-time high. Plus, you could both scare off wildlife (aka your next meal) and attract unwanted visitors (aka marauders looking for resources). That’s when airguns come into play. They’re far less noisy yet can take small game with ease. Take for instance the Model 599 from Daisy. This .177-caliber competition air rifle has a shooting distance of up to 300 yards with a maximum muzzle velocity of 520 feet per second per pellet. The beechwood stock allows for customization, thanks to adjustable comb height, butt-pad height, and length-of-pull. The single-shot rifle is rechargeable using a hand pump or air compressor.

Mammut Astro Gloves

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Sizes
Men’s and Women’s in various sizes

MSRP
$55

URL
us.mammut.com

Notes
The Astro Gloves are a versatile set of paw protection. Designed for hiking, they feature Gore Windstopper material that’s both windproof and breathable. This makes them great at keeping your digits toasty but not sweaty. They’re also formfitting without binding at the joints. Mammut gets bonus points for making the thumbs and index fingers touchscreen compatible, so you can keep the gloves on and still operate your mobile device. There’s also a leather flap for easy on and off, nonslip reinforcements in the palm and the fingers, and a connection hook to keep the gloves together when not in use. They’re also compact and lightweight enough to be worn as an inner layer inside larger winter mitts.

Streamlight ProTac HL 5-X

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Weight
1 pound, 3.4 ounces (with included batteries)

MSRP
$175

URL
streamlight.com

Notes
If this were a firearm, we’d call it a hand cannon. The ProTac HL 5-X is a powerful flashlight in more ways than one. Firstly, the output. It emits a whopping 3,500 lumens on high mode, 1,00 lumens on medium, and 250 lumens on low. It can light the way on a camping trip, during a sudden blackout, or on a search-and-rescue mission. Next, is its imposing stature. Clocking in at about a pound and 9.5 inches, the ProTac HL 5-X makes for a solid improvised weapon. Its anodized aluminum frame can take a beating while its rubber sleeve offers traction and thermal insulation. But perhaps what we love the most is its “multi-fuel” design: This Streamlight runs on CR123 batteries or the included rechargeable batteries, which can be replenished via its micro USB charging port.

One Eleven SWII Solar Three-Hand rPet Watch

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Colors
Black, Green, Orange, Red

MSRP
$125

URL
111watches.com

Notes
Most outdoor adventurers know that a watch has several survival uses, including as an impromptu compass and a distance calculator — just to name two. So having a reliable timepiece is essential, whether you’re braving the backcountry or the concrete jungle. This One Eleven watch won’t run out of batteries any time soon, thanks in large part to its solar-powered movement. Its dial is protected by a hardened mineral crystal lens, a stainless steel case-back, and a 42mm plastic case made from recycled plastic water bottles. The 22mm nylon strap has a hook-and-loop closure, allowing for a more accurate and personalized fit around your wrist than your granddaddy’s leather band. Moreover, the SWII is also water resistant up to 10 ATM (or roughly 100 meters), so it’ll keep ticking in snow, rain, or water. (Just don’t go diving with it.)

Chris Reeve Knives Impinda

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OAL
7.14 inches

MSRP
$450

URL
chrisreeve.com

Notes
The names Chris Reeves and Bill Harsey Jr. are legendary in the knife world. Both have made iconic blades proven to not only survive, but thrive in the field. So when the two team up, people pay attention. Their recent collaboration is the Impinda. This folding knife is their modern take on the slipjoint folding knife. Marrying top-notch materials like a S35-VN stainless steel blade and a sandblasted titanium handle with a vintage design, the Impinda has a “so simple it’s sophisticated” sleek look. The stonewashed drop-point blade’s shape makes it versatile for all sorts of tasks, which won’t be too difficult since it cuts and stabs like a lightsaber. At 3.38 ounces, it’s an ideal folding knife for everyday carry, but could easily serve you reliably in an unexpected survival situation.

Zootility Co. ST-2 Pocket Knife

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Weight
1.4 ounces

MSRP
$44.50

URL
zootility.com

Notes
If the Chris Reeves Impinda is too pricy for your wallet and you want something cheaper and slimmer, look no further than the ST-2 Pocket Knife from Zootility. It is 0.125-inch thin and is just 3.51 inches when closed. When the 2.2-inch semi-serrated blade is extended, the folding knife stands at 5.8 inches. The ST-2 is made of 440C stainless steel, which does a fine job of fighting off corrosion and is easy to sharpen. But one of the main benefits of this tool is that it’s boltless, allowing you to quickly replace or even trash the blade — a convenient feature if you’re in the field and don’t have time to sharpen the blade or if you’re about to go through airport security screening and forgot the knife in your pocket.

Rite in the Rain Flat Dark Earth Metal Clicker Pen

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OAL
5.125 inches

MSRP
$17

URL
riteintherain.com

Notes
While this isn’t a tactical pen meant for fighting off terrorists or the undead apocalypse, the Flat Dark Earth Metal Clicker Pen is a super reliable writing instrument that’ll work in pretty much any environment. It can write on wet paper, while upside down, or even in temperatures as low as -30 degrees F. Rite in the Rain says the clicker pen’s black ink will never leak, evaporate, or blow up in your pocket. This could be quite handy in a wide variety of situations, from writing down the license plate of a hit-and-run car to leaving a message for your survival group at your predetermined rendezvous point. The body of the pen is brass, colored with a matte FDE powdercoat.

More From Issue 30

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Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 31

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 29

Check out our other publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade | RecoilTV | RECOILtv (YouTube)

Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.

Parental Preps Issue 30

Written by

Got a tip you’d like to share? Send it to offgrid@recoilweb.com along with a well-lit, high-resolution photo of yourself. Also include your name, and your website or social media handles if applicable. Please keep your tip submissions between 250 and 350 words. By sending in submissions, you grant TEN: Publishing Media the unrestricted, transferable and sub-licensable, irrevocable, royalty-free, world-wide, and perpetual license to reproduce, distribute, publicly display, make derivative works of, and otherwise use the Submissions in any media whatsoever now known or later invented throughout the world for any purpose whatsoever, commercial or not.

Right now the biggest thing for me is situational awareness. My son is 8 and doesn’t pay attention to literally anything, ever. So when we’re walking or driving somewhere, we play a game memorizing cross streets. He’s also recently decided that he likes doing route prep. I print out a street map from Google or MapQuest and tell him to draw the route to somewhere we go regularly (his school, the grocery store, his favorite restaurants, etc). If the route he draws is different from how I normally go, we take it anyway. Then, on the way back, we’ll take my preferred route so he can see the difference. If we’re taking a route he picked, I’ll make him look at the nearest street sign and tell me what the next turn/step is from where we are right now.

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Tom Marshall
Senior Editor, RECOIL

I have four boys, including a 14-year-old son who is a freshman in high school. I can’t always pick him up. He plays sports, and practice ends at different times every day, so I often arrange to have an Uber to pick him up. To prevent any kidnappings or any other wrongdoings toward him, once I book the Uber driver, I call him/her to let them know where my son is waiting and what he’s wearing. I also let the driver know that I see that they’re currently on “whatever street” and that they’re close-by. (I only say this so that the driver is aware that I’m tracking him/her.) I also let the driver know that I’ve sent my son a screen shot along with his license plate info, car info, and a picture of him so my son can keep an eye out. This is my way of letting the driver know I have all his info, and I’m not afraid to hunt his/her ass down … LOL. Once my son is in the car, I call my son and keep him on the phone for as long as he allows me to (he’s a teenager so he easily gets embarrassed), and I have him call me as soon as he gets home.

Before we go to any place that we know strangers have easy access to kids (amusement parks, malls, etc), I take a picture of my kids before we leave the house. If something were to happen, I can easily text, email, or print the picture for police or staff to take a look at. It’s faster and more accurate than trying to remember what they’re wearing, especially under these circumstances.

I’ve taught all my kids to remember their full name, date of birth, address, and phone number. Although my kids know not to talk to strangers, I know that nice shiny things like the offer of candy and pets can easily make kids forget everything. During long car drives, I like to go over different scenarios on what they should or shouldn’t do.

Parental preps Issue 30 Claudia Richarte

Claudia Richarte

More From Issue 30

Don’t miss essential survival insights—sign up for Recoil Offgrid's free newsletter today!

Read articles from the next issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 31

Read articles from the previous issue of Recoil Offgrid: Issue 29

Check out our other publications on the web: Recoil | Gun Digest | Blade | RecoilTV | RECOILtv (YouTube)

Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.

 

Last Man Projects: Mystery Ranch Coulee 40 Review

Written by

Editor's Note: The following article was written by contributor Brandon Barton for his Facebook page, Last Man Projects. We've shared the post in its entirety with permission. For more from Brandon, check out his previous articles, Lessons Learned from a 26-Mile Hike and $200 DIY Emergency Power Pack.

Hello, my name is Last Man and I… I’m a pack addict. I recently got a great deal on a closeout Mystery Ranch Coulee 40 from Backcountry.com. It’s a departure from many other packs I’ve picked up and not one I think many in the preparedness community would normally gravitate to. Why not? Well for starters it’s not some webbed up, 1000-denier nylon, Velcro paneled, multi-pocketed tac-pack (of which I have several).

Last Man Projects Mystery Ranch Coulee 40 bug out bag backpack survival preparedness 2

In fact mine, in the only color they had left, looks kinda like a giant avocado. It’s closer to a dedicated hiker’s pack more at home in a National Park than a military-based pack on a deployment somewhere. Think more Osprey or Kelty and less London Bridge Tactical or Eberlestock. For those of you guys looking to be more “grey” this is a great pack, coming in some low-key colors but with the space and features few if the other less “tactical” options offer.

Last Man Projects Mystery Ranch Coulee 40 bug out bag backpack survival preparedness 6

My initial impressions of this pack are very positive. At 40L it’s not made for long sustainment trips, but for something to help get me home over the course of a week or so it’s just right. Because of its size it’s really difficult to over-pack, although I bet some folks will still succeed in doing just that.

Last Man Projects Mystery Ranch Coulee 40 bug out bag backpack survival preparedness 3

It’s exceptionally comfortable — I hardly notice I’ve got it on. The 3-zipper design, a Mystery Ranch exclusive, is the best way I’ve seen so far in accessing all gear easily. If you lay it down unzipped completely, the pack is wide open. Although I have to admit, when you sit it up and open just the top (pictured), the bag looks disconcertingly like that face-sucker egg from the movie Alien. The zippers are on par with the best I’ve seen in the industry.

Last Man Projects Mystery Ranch Coulee 40 bug out bag backpack survival preparedness 5

Oh, and one last thing on storage. I really love the zippered pockets on the waist belt. They are very handy for all the quick access items you’d normally have to stash somewhere like the lid pockets.

I’m not going in to all the technical voodoo that makes this bag so comfortable. Mystery Ranch says it's a result of a frame “comprised of two vertical composit rods and an upper horizontal composit bar” paired with an HPDE frame sheet and Futura Yoke. For anyone else, just take it that it’s really, really comfortable.

Last Man Projects Mystery Ranch Coulee 40 bug out bag backpack survival preparedness 7

Now for the downsides. That cavernous interior needs a lot of organization to pack well. There are no interior pockets to organize smaller things inside the main compartment so little pouches and zip-lock bags are your friends.

Speaking of pockets, those four “stretch woven pockets” on the outside are not nearly as handy as Mystery Ranch would like to think they are. They seem too tight or awkward for anything other than a light rain shell or pair of gloves. I’d rather have a couple extra “real” pockets for my money. Lastly, the hydration reservoir pocket is smaller than most packs I have. I crammed the 3L bladder from the Camelbak BFM and its not the ideal set up, but will work.

Last Man Projects Mystery Ranch Coulee 40 bug out bag backpack survival preparedness 4

The bottom line is if you’re looking to travel fast and comfortably with minimal to moderate loads, this is a great choice.

Here are the basic specs from Mystery Ranch’s website:

Weight – 3.8 lbs
Volume – 2441 cu-in (40 liters)
Dimensions – 28.5″ x 16″ x 12.5″
MSRP – $229

How to Make Syrup from Maples & Other Trees

Written by

Winter downtime is a myth for anyone living away from the comforts of suburbia. Even though gardening and beekeeping are on hold and egg production is slowed, there’s still much to be done during the colder months. Livestock producers are seeing calves and lambs born. There’s firewood to manage. However, unless you’re a quilter, woodworker, knifemaker, or homebrewer, the shift in activities can lead to cabin fever or a reduction in productivity.

Syrup maple trees tapping sap survival preparedness winter food 14

Fortunately, there’s a high-value food product that can be produced and stockpiled on the homestead during the short days of winter — maple syrup.

Even if you don’t reside in a well-known syrup-producing region such as New England or Canada, and even if your neighbors assure you that “we don’t have those kinds of trees around here,” syrup could still be an option. And it’s not restricted solely to those who are blessed with dense groves of sugar maples.

Red maple is one of many common species that can yield maple syrup.

Red maple is one of many species that can yield maple syrup. Photo: Morguefile.com / davidpwhelan

Trees to Target

The classic tree syrup is maple, of course, and sugar maple is the king sap-producer of the Acer genus, but all maple species will yield maple syrup — red maple, black maple, and silver maple. The lowland growing boxelder, too, is technically a maple and makes a decent syrup. The primary difference among these will be the sugar content, and as the name suggests, sugar maple will have the most. The textbooks say that the sap-to-syrup ratio is 40 to 1 for sugar maple and 60 to 1 for red (although this will fluctuate from tree to tree and throughout the season).

Syrup maple trees tapping sap survival preparedness winter food 16

Sap can be consumed straight from the tree, where it averages 1 to 3 percent sugar and looks and tastes like water.

Other trees can produce syrup in the same way as the maples, including black walnut and sycamore, although both the sugar levels and sap yields will be lower. Birch syrup is produced in some areas, but the sap-to-syrup ratio is typically going to be upwards of 100 to 1. Furthermore, as opposed to sucrose in maple sap, the sugar in birch is fructose, meaning it’s more likely to scorch, so cooking it down is a much slower process.

Walnut syrup isn’t as well known, but many would say the quality rivals maple.

Walnut syrup isn’t as well known, but many would say the quality rivals maple.

Naturally, there’s been much more research and tradition tied to maple syrup over the years than other types. If you’re venturing into other genera, proceed slowly and cautiously, as you’ll be figuring out a lot on your own.

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A refractometer, although not necessary, can be a convenient way to monitor the sugar content of the sap/syrup.

As far as timing goes, that’s another component you’ll need to figure out. Maine sees its peak sap flow in March, for instance, while the flow in Virginia may end in late February. It’s even possible to tap sycamores in the fall in many instances. For maple production, you’ll want nights with temperatures in the 20 degrees F (-6 degrees C) range, followed by days in the mid-40s (4 degrees C).

Tap only healthy-looking trees that are at least ten inches in diameter, trees with no dieback, fire scarring or other visible weaknesses. Drill a 1.5-inch-deep hole into the trunk at a convenient height using a 5/16-inch bit, and lightly tap the spout in just far enough so that it can’t be pulled out by hand easily. In subsequent years, drill the holes at least six inches above or below and six inches to the right or left of the previous year’s taps.

Once a tap is done, the tree quickly begins an attempt to seal off that wound, so it’s important not to tap too early. Six to ten weeks is about how long that tap can be productive. As for long-term sustainability, the same trees are often tapped for generations. Healthy trees will naturally compartmentalize the wounds after about 10 weeks, sealing off any infections that might try to find their way in.

Buckets or Tubing?

Most backyard syrup producers begin with buckets, and unless you invest in the galvanized ones, this can be the most economical approach. Ten taps can be set up for well under $20. Bakeries and delis will often give away their old plastic buckets, but be sure to avoid any that could taint the flavor of your final product. Icing buckets, for instance, are perfect. Dill pickle buckets — not so much.

Syrup maple trees tapping sap survival preparedness winter food 5

Any clean, food-grade container can be used to collect sap.

One-gallon water containers or plastic ice cream tubs are fine for a few trees, too, but keep in mind that the perfect weather can yield well over a gallon of sap per tap in a single 24-hour period.

Plastic spouts can be purchased for a few cents each, and a few feet of tubing will be needed to connect the spout and the container.

Syrup maple trees tapping sap survival preparedness winter food 7

As for the number of taps per tree, a good rule of thumb is that if you can reach all the way around the tree, one tap is enough. If you can’t, install two. If it takes two people to reach around it, that’s good for three taps. Tables can be found online that give diameter-specific tap numbers, if you want to be more scientific about it.

If tapping on a steep slope, tubing will eventually seem like a good move. Up until recent years, the norm has been to use 5/16-inch tubing plugged into larger mainlines, but 3/16-inch tubing has gotten more popular. For a small number of taps, the 3/16 can be zig-zagged downslope from tree to tree without a mainline. Another advantage of the 3/16-inch over the 5/16-inch tubing is that, if you have at least a 30-foot descent from the highest to the lowest points, the smaller diameter creates a vacuum effect and will ultimately yield more volume.

Syrup maple trees tapping sap survival preparedness winter food 4

The cost for the 3/16-inch tubing is currently about $50 for an 800-foot roll, and this can potentially be enough to connect 25 or 30 trees, depending on the spacing.

Storage

Storing the sap until ready to cook can be a significant challenge, as the sap can sour during warmer days. The weather will often work to your advantage, and if your sap freezes in the containers, count your blessings. Creating a snow bank for storage is a good idea, if you lack enough refrigerator or freezer space to keep it all.

Sap can be kept for a week or longer by pouring it all into a large chest cooler and freezing a gallon or two of sap to float in it, thereby keeping its temperature down.

Be sure to only use food-grade containers for collection and storage, as sap is notorious for hanging onto flavors and smells and imparting those into the syrup.

A low-cost option for larger volume collection is a (new and unused) trash container, but again, make sure it’s food-grade.

Stock tanks, recycled 55-gallon drums from the soft drink industry or stainless steel dairy tanks are other options for storing and collecting sap.

Cooking

Syrup maple trees tapping sap survival preparedness winter food 17

Store-bought syrup pans and evaporators make sense for large-scale production, but the prices in a supplier catalog can be discouraging for a backyard producer. A wide pan that exposes as much surface area as possible speeds up the evaporation process, so something like a five- or six-gallon stockpot isn’t very efficient. A wood fire will usually prove to be the best heat source, especially if you have access to your own firewood, although propane is fine for finishing.

Syrup maple trees tapping sap survival preparedness winter food 6

Stainless steel water pans from a restaurant supplier can hold several gallons, and there are numerous ideas online for creating wood-burning evaporators that hold two to four of these.

Sap will be cooked until it reaches 66 percent sugar (a measurement also known as Brix or °Bx). A candy thermometer is the cheapest way to monitor this. Find the exact elevation for the spot where you’ll be cooking. Then, find a table online that gives you the degrees (in Fahrenheit) for the boiling point of water at that elevation. Add 7.5 degrees F to that number, and that’s the target. For instance, at 2000 feet above sea level, water will boil at 208 degrees F. The syrup can be bottled when the sap reaches 215.5 degrees F.

Syrup maple trees tapping sap survival preparedness winter food 13

Other Equipment

A consistent aggravation for commercial producers is “sugar sand” or niter, a by-product that can cause cloudy syrup or a gritty deposit in the bottom of the container. It’s harmless but ugly. At the very least, run the hot syrup through a couple layers of muslin cloth before bottling, or consider a cone filter from a maple supplier.

Syrup maple trees tapping sap survival preparedness winter food 1

Above: Niter or sugar sand (like what’s settled in the bottom of this jar) is harmless but unattractive. Filtration is necessary for a quality product.

As cooking sap requires so many hours, reverse osmosis filtration is something that has advantages for larger producers. Reverse osmosis machines are expensive, but when one considers that they remove up to 75 percent of the water from sap before the boiling even begins, the time-savings can be significant when managing 1000 taps or more.

Selling or Repurposing Your Syrup

Syrup maple trees tapping sap survival preparedness winter food 12

Once you’ve established the tools and techniques for syrup production, it’s likely that you’ll end up with more than your family (and your friends, relatives, and neighbors) can use. In this case, selling the excess syrup can be a great way to generate income to support other homesteading projects. If you’re planning to sell syrup, you’ll need to contact your local Extension office for information on bottling and labeling requirements for your area. It may be that you can sell through some venues like farmers’ markets or on-the-farm but not others without an inspection of your facility. Value-added products can increase the revenue per gallon of syrup quite a bit. Bourbon-barrel-aged syrup, syrup coated pecans, or maple candy are good examples.

 

For those who have invested in reverse osmosis equipment, it’s even possible to bottle the permeate and sell it as “purified maple water” (after jumping through the appropriate legal hoops). Many producers sell maple cotton candy, but most don’t use their own syrup for this, instead buying maple sugar to use.

Syrup maple trees tapping sap survival preparedness winter food 10

Selling maple or birch sap straight from the tree could be an option for those who don’t want to bother with cooking. Check with any nearby producers about buying sap. Plus, there seems to be a market for unprocessessed sap among consumers as a sort of natural, organic beverage.

The tourism potential of syrup can include pancake breakfasts, tours and festivals, and this can be especially helpful as fundraising for local fire departments, rescue squads, or youth groups.

Syrup production can be a worthwhile investment of winter hours. Whether it’s approached as a business or simply with the goal of a few pints for one’s own use (or for gifts or bartering), it’s a surprisingly easy and affordable skill to learn.

What If You Awaken to a Kidnapping, Abduction, or Worse?

Written by

Illustrations by Cassandra Dale

You’re in that state between waking and dreaming, where you’re not quite sure if what you heard was imagined or not. It’s approximately 3 in the morning, and someone just entered your room. Since you’re spending the night at your friend Paula’s house, perhaps she’s looking for something. But at this hour? This doesn’t make sense. As you open your eyes and the blurriness fades away, you hear something that sounds strangely like duct tape being unrolled. Your heart rate begins to race as you realize whoever is in the room with you isn’t Paula at all. It’s someone who shouldn’t be in the house.

As you turn your head to get a better look at the situation, the stranger realizes you’re beginning to wake up. The man immediately jumps on top of you and covers your mouth with his hand. In a low, threatening voice he growls, “Shut up! Make a sound and you’re dead!” Overcome with the immediate shock of what’s happening, you fear for not only your life, but Paula’s as well.

You’re turned over on your stomach, your mouth and eyes are covered with tape, and your wrists are bound behind your back. You have a knife in your purse, only a few feet away from you. If only you could reach it, you’d have a better chance at escaping your unknown assailant. Whatever their intentions are, you’re not sure at this point. You adjust your breathing to try to dampen the feelings of panic and think clearly about how to free yourself. You may only have a few minutes to live — or maybe they just want to immobilize you so they can rob the place. There’s no way to be sure at this point. Every decision you make could determine whether you survive or not.

assult1.psd

In this issue’s What If? column, we look at a topic that’s often in the back of people’s minds — an aggressive home intruder with unknown intentions that could be kidnapping, abduction, or worse. While we often see these incidents reported in the media, we find that they’re accompanied by little, if any, information about what you can do if ever faced with a similar situation to improve your odds of survival. We plan to change that here, with feedback from two of our writers on what they’d do to sway the given scenario in their favor. We asked Morgan Rogue of RoguePreparedness.com and firearms instructor Sheena Green to offer guidance to help you think through some possible ways to turn victimization into victory.

The Setup

It’s a Friday night, and you drive over to your friend Paula’s new house to deliver a housewarming gift and catch up on things. Paula tells you she just recently rented out her detached guesthouse in the back to a male colleague at her work, but that he isn’t currently home. She asks you if you can spend the night since she’s not sure when he’s coming back. Paula’s husband is also out of town, and her new tenant has lately been bringing over a bunch of male friends who stay up past midnight partying. As a result, she’s thinking about evicting him. You’ve known Paula for years and trust her judgment as far as roommate selection, so you can understand her concern. As you’ve spent many a late night talking with Paula over the years, you decide to spend the night in her guest room, located next to Paula’s room, so she feels a bit safer.

The Scenario

Situation Type
A friend’s house

Your Crew
You and your friend Paula

Location
Your hometown

Season
Winter

Weather
Rainy; high 47 degrees F, low 39 degrees F

The Complication

You awaken on your stomach in the middle of the night to the sound of tape being unwrapped. As you try to roll over, someone hops over you and pushes one of their knees into your back with great force, wrapping a length of tape around your eyes and head. The attacker says if you shout or try to escape, he’ll kill you. He then proceeds to bind your wrists tightly together behind your back with duct tape. At this point, you don’t know if this is the roommate Paula mentioned, one of his friends, or a random intruder. You don’t know if he’s alone or if there are multiple accomplices in the house. You also don’t know if this person has a weapon, what their motive is, or if Paula is even still alive.

Through a gap in the tape and outside light peering through the window, you can make out certain features about your assailant in the reflection of a large mirror on the closet door. You can’t yet see a weapon in his hands, but that doesn’t mean he doesn’t have one. Also, the intruder isn’t wearing a mask. They’re also the only other person in the room at this point. You see your purse right where you left it, about 3 feet from you. It contains a folding knife. Your cell phone is still charging on the nightstand next to you and is within arm’s reach — or would be, if your hands weren’t bound. Your legs aren’t yet bound. What do you do? Scream for help? Use social engineering to talk your way out of it? Remain compliant and hope it influences him to spare you? Try to discreetly break your restraints and escape? Fight your way out?

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Survival Advocate “Rogue’s” Approach

Prep

If I had a friend who was worried about her troublesome tenant and his friends, I’d want to do everything I could to protect her. Before settling down, I’d text or call a friend or relative and let them know where I’d be for the night. Initially, I’d ask Paula to give me a rundown on this tenant, his general behavior and the behavior of his friends, their comings and goings, where they work, what they do, etc. I’d also ask if she’d had any confrontations with them before, if it involved the police, or if they’d ever been inside her home. Knowing the layout of her home would give them a good understanding of how to break into it. This info would help me understand the tenant’s present disposition toward Paula, how big a threat he may pose, and if it’s been documented. The more I know, the better.

I carry a firearm and a knife on me at all times. Assuming a reader might not have a firearm or be licensed to carry one, I’ll also address defense techniques that could be used either way. I also carry a cross-body purse that contains odds and ends for everyday and emergency use. Since I’m sleeping over at Paula’s, my knife and firearm would remain inside my purse while we slept. I also usually carry a dog tag-sized lock-picking set as well as a dog tag-sized folding knife from Grim Survival. They attach to the inside of my pants via a retractable keychain with a carabiner. They’re very discreet, and can be easily retrieved or worn in pajamas if needed.

I’m pretty much always alert and wary of becoming a victim due to an attack or sexual assault, so I always strive to learn new skills to protect myself and others. I study Krav Maga because it teaches real-world defense techniques, such as how to push someone off if you’re on the ground and they’re sitting on top of you, how to get out of a bear hug from either behind or in front, or what to do if your hair is pulled. Practicing these skills over and over is essential to muscle memory and proficiency.

We must also have a strong mind. Being attacked is a stressful, gut-wrenching experience. If we have the will to survive, then our chances of survival increase dramatically. Another way to strengthen our mind is to plan out solutions to hypothetical scenarios. I do this by envisioning steps I could take to survive various situations that might happen whenever I’m out and about. The more I think about ways to survive something, the more confident I feel.

On Site

Paula’s house has no alarm system and it’s unfamiliar to me, so I’d check the windows and doors, making sure all locks work and everything is secure. A chain lock can be broken or taken off very easily from the outside; deadbolts and a kick plate are more secure and should be used if possible. Putting a wooden rod in the track of the sliding glass door or window also increases security. Although she may not have some of these items, I’d suggest she invest in these types of reinforcements; perhaps some could be improvised the night I stayed over.

I’d also check the backyard gate for a lock and ensure nothing nearby could be used to climb over, such as a garbage can. The tenant would presumably have a key to an outside gate, but it’d still be one more way to thwart any other intruders. I’d keep the porch, patio, and kitchen lights on — illuminating the interior gives the impression that someone is home and may still be awake. Someone still awake and able to quickly dial 911 could discourage a home invader looking for the low-hanging fruit of people who aren’t home or could be taken by surprise.

Since Paula has every right to be worried, I’d reassure her and recommend she lock her bedroom door (if possible) and try to get some sleep. It might sound extreme, but I’d also tell her to place a chair or some other heavy obstruction against her bedroom door on the inside to further impede an intruder and possibly buy some time to react. I’d tell her that if she hears any suspicious noises to immediately grab her phone, listen for any further noises, and be ready to call 911 if she feels unsafe.

As I head to bed, I’d keep my phone within arm’s reach, ideally on a wireless charger so that I can easily retrieve it without having to fumble around with charging cables. I’d also keep my purse within reach on the floor next to the bed. Since the door to my guest room doesn’t lock, I’d have to figure out a way to not only block a possible intruder, but also to wake up if someone were trying to enter. If nothing better were available, I could also place a chair against the doorknob on the inside.

Crisis

Let’s assume for this situation that some of these additional security measures weren’t possible or failed for some reason. Waking up to someone tying my hands behind my back and telling me he’ll kill me would lead me to believe that the assailant likely has a weapon or perhaps plans to strangle me. Whether his threats are empty or not, I’d have to think quickly.

My legs aren’t bound yet, and I’ve learned how to break out of duct tape, even with my hands tied behind my back. Assuming he’d have to change positions and release his knee from my back at some point, I wouldn’t say a word or scream, but instead just wait. I have no idea if anyone would even hear my screams, so screaming would be useless at this point.

The moment he releases his knee from my back, I’d roll to the opposite side of the bed so that I could fall to the floor, sit up, and quickly lunge my hands up as far as they’ll go and forcefully drop them back down again to attempt to break the duct tape. By rolling away from my attacker, it gives me a few moments to work on getting out of the tape. If I couldn’t break the tape with the first thrust down, I would try to slip my legs through my arms. While this can be difficult and takes practice, it can be done.

This would all happen quickly, but I’d be banking on the possibility that my attacker would be caught off-guard by my sudden actions and wouldn’t react right away. I’d pull the duct tape up enough to see clearly as soon as I freed my hands. If he wrapped his arms around me from behind to try to subdue me once again, I would attempt to lift my arms up and break free from his grip, turn, and punch him in the groin — a good spot to hit, whether you’re fighting a male or female.

If I couldn’t break free from his hold with this technique, I could also simply bend down a bit and attack the groin, step on his feet, kick him in the shins, legs, or whatever your limbs I can reach — attacking some area of his body is better than doing nothing. I would try to jump over the bed to access my phone or purse to retrieve my firearm or knife.

assult2.psd

If he grabbed my leg and tried to pull me back, with my other leg, I would kick his arm, face, or whatever my free leg could reach. I could also possibly use the sheets to cover his head and disorient him. If I couldn’t retrieve my knife or firearm fast enough, I’d be reaching for and throwing whatever I could at him to slow him down. Anything can be an improvised weapon and could potentially put him on the defensive.

I may have to scratch, claw, and bite my way out of his grasp to reach my weapon and cell phone. I could also use the small dog tag folding knife I’d kept in my pants to defend myself and buy enough time to get to the other side of the bed to retrieve a more effective weapon.

If I were able to reach my firearm, I would tell him to lie on the ground as I kept my gun on him and called 911. If he didn’t comply with my orders, this is where it gets tricky. If he runs away, I may not have to use my firearm. If he’s fleeing, then in the eyes of the law, he may no longer be considered a threat. If I were to shoot at a fleeing assailant, even with what just happened, I could go to prison. The specifics will depend on the laws in your jurisdiction, so be sure to research and understand them. However, I would keep my gun at the ready and the phone line open, then go check on Paula. On the other hand, if he continued to attack me or tried to take my weapon, I may have to use deadly force to protect myself.

Ideally, after confirming whether Paula is safe or not, I’d remain on the call with the 911 operator until the police arrive. When they get there, they don’t know the situation or if I’m really the bad guy — all they know is that I have a gun. I’d tell them that I’m a concealed carry holder and do my best to comply with what they’re asking and work out the details later, such as if I need a lawyer. Simply being handcuffed doesn’t forfeit your right to speak with a lawyer. Gather your thoughts and remain compliant, but answering questions should be done in the presence of an attorney. [Editor’s note: see “Aftermath” in Issue 1 of our sister publication CONCEALMENT for post self-defense shooting legalities.]

Whether you’re scared for your life in your own home or just walking down the street to work, you should always take every precaution necessary to avoid being a victim. We don’t always have security guards or police nearby when we need it most, so we must be responsible for our own safety.

Firearms Instructor Sheena Green’s Approach

Prep

Even though I hadn’t stayed at Paula’s new home before, could there be a way to become familiar with the layout without even setting foot in it? Possibly. Using social media, I’d look to see if Paula had shared any photos like many excited new homeowners do. Since she recently purchased the house, there might also be a listing with more details on a real estate site. I’d use Google Maps and to see what the outside of her house and the neighborhood looks like to make sure I went to the right place. It’d be worth noting how close the neighbors are and what the terrain is like immediately surrounding Paula’s house.

The news about her tenant and his late-night guests would be an instant red flag. If he were to come home and bring his friends to drink and party, the possibility of having mind-altered strangers in close proximity to where we’ll be sleeping wouldn’t sit well with me. Avoiding a bad situation is impossible if it descends upon me while I’m peacefully dreaming.
Upon awakening to the fragility of life years ago, I resolved to take at least one self-defense class a year in addition to firearms training. To supplement the classes, I listen to audiobooks with self-protection themes to fortify my mind and prepare myself mentally.

If I didn’t know about her tenant situation prior to arriving, there wouldn’t be much extra preparation before my visit, outside of my normal EDC. For the purpose of this article, I’ll address the situation with the tools presented earlier and examples from training I’ve taken.

On Site

Asking for a tour of the home would help supplement any impressions of the house’s layout I saw online and enable me to start planning ways to increase our security. Planning escape routes to nearest exits, knowing which second story windows can be used as exits, or hunkering down behind a sturdy, locked door with a cell phone are all options that should be considered.

If needed, barricade or block a flimsy exit door with furniture or a doorstop to slow down an intruder before retiring to bed. Since I’m with my friend, I’d want to test it and be sure the furniture or chair I used won’t give way.

A folding knife in a purse on the other side of the room is worthless. I’d need quick access, staged within arm’s reach and not folded if possible. Paula should have some type of tool or self-defense implement by her bed as well.

I’d suggest that we have a slumber party/movie night in the living room. We could leave lights on in adjacent rooms and have more space to move to other weapons or exits. We could also turn ordinary objects into weapons if needed: scissors, screwdrivers, bookends, fireplace tools, you get the idea.

Implementing emergency plans with friends, family, or trusted neighbors is imperative. Agree to keep cell phones next to the bed and call 911 at the first sign of trouble. Stay on the line with 911 while heading to a designated safe room. Identifying a location down the street to flee to together or meet up at is also a good idea. Make sure it’s a well-lit location with access to help and preferably security cameras as well.

Making a preemptive phone call to the local PD on their non-emergency line is one of the easiest things to do. Inform them of the tenant who parties frequently and, since Paula’s husband is out of town, request a patrol car to make a few trips over the course of the night if possible.

assult3.psd

Crisis

The automatic bodily response to being startled awake is disorientation coupled with accelerated heart rate and breathing. The mind races, as it quickly has to process all the sensory inputs to produce an appropriate response. Slipping into panic mode can shut down decision-making capabilities. Slow your breathing to force the brain to match it and clear your mind.

Any fear that was suppressed by confusion will come forward. Reject fear paralysis by addressing it, resolving to survive, and winning the fight. Adding self-talk into stressful situations when there’s loss of control will also help prevent panicking. Breathe. Calm. Listen. Think. What’s my best option?

He said that if I made a sound or tried to escape he’d kill me. If murder was his only motive, he could have done it already. This means he has other intentions; my initial thought is rape.

In this scenario, being pinned on my stomach with my hands behind my back, there isn’t much I can do except for one move called VINE: straighten the legs and lock them at the ankles while engaging the glutes, hamstrings, and quads. This will seal up the legs and tuck the tailbone. I’m banking that he’ll try to pry my legs apart with both hands. We all laughed at the Thighmaster, but this is a good reason to dust off the one in the basement.

He won’t be able to get what he wants, and he’ll have to roll me over. It may seem more vulnerable by giving him access to my breasts and mouth, but it’s a better defensive position and I can use it to gain more control over the situation.

An escape technique while having the hands and arms bound with duct tape is to keep the forearms and hand muscles tense and engaged while the tape is being applied to create wiggle room inside the duct tape once they relax. Application techniques for duct tape and placement are variables that’ll determine escape techniques — some are more difficult than others. A more experienced criminal may be better at it than a novice.

If he rolls me on my back to try to pry my legs apart from the front, I probably have a limited amount of time before he increases force to get what he wants. I would try to quickly work my hands while they are underneath my body so he can’t see what I’m doing, hopefully freeing one hand from the other.

Smelling his alcohol-laden breath, hearing him huff and puff, and feeling his hands on me, I’d use my senses to locate where his head is. If I know where his head is, I can determine where his eyes are. Even though he sloppily placed duct tape over my own eyes, once my hand is free, I can and will drive my fingers into his face without hesitation. The ideal targets are his eyes. Make the first strike count! Unless he’s really out of his mind, his hands should move to his face upon successfully redirecting his external priority (you) to an internal priority (his face).

As soon I make contact with one hand, the other one would rip the duct tape off my eyes. Plant one leg into the bed and use the other to kick him as hard as possible to create some distance. The situation will determine what target areas are available when the time comes. Once you’ve created some space, grab your phone and purse if within reach and GTFO.

Unfortunately, we must also look at this scenario from the opposite outcome. What if I couldn’t get my hands free? What if instead of continuing the attempt to pry my legs open he hit me with a lamp from the nightstand, and I momentarily broke my VINE and passed out?

If I was unsuccessful at keeping him off me, I may lose control over the situation, but there’s one thing I do still have control over — my internal situation, my own mind. The mind is always our most valuable weapon.

Rather than withdrawing from the situation and checking out, I can choose to study parts about him that’ll help me identify him in the future so he can be caught and locked away. What did he smell like? Did he have long hair or short hair? What’s his body size compared to mine? Could I feel the texture of his clothes to determine what he was wearing? If I could get the duct tape off my eyes, I’d want to note any distinctive marks on his face and body, tattoos, piercings, etc. And, while it makes me uncomfortable even writing it, I’d look at the color of his eyes.

The second best weapon in this situation is your voice. While he said no shouting, he didn’t say no talking. This is where skills in social engineering can buy time to plan the next move. I’d try to sit up and, as I’m moving, ask politely if it’s OK to sit up while reassuring him that I won’t run away. It’s a false promise, but as long as he doesn’t say no and push me back down, I’ll be in a position to try to slide my hands underneath then straight up my front to remove the tape from my eyes. More possibilities to fight or run can happen from here.

Conclusion

This What If? scenario is designed to get you thinking about your own personal safety. While we may or may not travel without a firearm or fixed blade on our person, this article specifically addresses the tools in the setup. Undeniably, there are many variables in such a crisis that we simply don’t have space to address here, but the idea is to get you thinking ahead of time to help reinforce the overarching principle of this publication — preparation. The best bet is learning ways to prevent this situation from happening at all. Steve Tarani addresses this in his book titled, Prefense: The 90% Advantage.

The more things we can do to prevent an attack from happening, the more we decrease the chances of it happening. Educate yourself: take classes on martial arts, escape and evasion, and situational awareness. The article Vanishing Act in the previous issue of this magazine (#29) addresses some of the ways to prepare yourself for a kidnapping scenario. Read about self-defense, join a gym, and find like-minded friends to train with. The opportunities are out there; you just have to find them and commit to learning. You’re your own first line of defense.

If you’re a woman reading this, find a class where you can literally manhandle some dudes so you know what it feels like to fight someone bigger than you. You may be surprised at how strong you actually are, or you may be surprised that you aren’t as strong as you thought. Either way, you’ll learn about the areas you need to improve. So, why wait until the last minute to figure it out? We’re all responsible for our own safety, and the best way to stop the world’s victimizers is to stand up to them.

Meet Our Panel

Morgan “Rogue”

Morgan “Rogue” resides in Texas with her husband, daughter, and two dogs, with their second daughter on the way. Her family is always venturing into the wilderness and challenging themselves, as well as others, to love the outdoors. Through Rogue Preparedness, she works toward making the world a more prepared place, where people can feel confident in knowing that they possess the skills, knowledge, and items to get them through any emergency or disaster. She educates and entertains on her YouTube channel, website, and social media platforms, as well as in-person events held in Texas. You can find Morgan at roguepreparedness.com

Sheena Green

Sheena Green is a perpetual student, prior manager at CrossRoads Shooting Sports, and certified firearms instructor. She has attended many shooting, edged weapons, and self-defense classes by well-respected instructors such as Steve Fisher, Steve Tarani, Ed Calderon, and others. She co-leads the Des Moines, Iowa, chapter of The Well Armed Woman. In addition to defensive training, she also enjoys competitive pistol and shotgun sports. p3atraining.com

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Editor's Note: This article has been modified from its original version for the web.